Gem Razor Models

[Ron R]

Here I was hoping to learn what I have, only to find a list of models I can't identify by name .
I was given two by a friend, and must say I was wildly impressed by the shave.

I saw one in an antique store just yesterday with an ever ready brush for $35 and passed thinking it was over priced. The brush was a shredder and the razor looked great but for the blade and whiskers still in it. It was a TTO I'd say identical to @rabidus' post above, 3rd from the right.

I told myself a long time ago, Gillette only, curb the rad... my buddy giving me 2 GEMS, the antique store and this board aren't helping.

Can someone please i.d. what I've got here?... and is the Hickok case correct?...I was thinking it's a company gift or something?

Finally, I've only taken the gold one for a couple spins so far and love it. I'd expect the same shave from the silver or no?

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Looks like a couple of real nice 1912 models. One way to confirm is where the handle screws in you should see a stamped 1912, those razors look like 1920's vintage. They MFG those 1912 different models for decades and produced millions during the golden era of new safety razors idea.
I think Gem MFG stamped for other big store brands their name possibly.

 

[HoosierTrooper]

Thank you very much. As I understand it there are many variations of 1912s...gem, ever ready, damaskeene, Junior...is there a particular one you recommend? If they are different I'd prefer one on the aggressive side I don't quite understand the jargon of the names and not one is different to another

I don't believe any one version is inherently more or less aggressive than another, they were all produced by the same parent company just stamped as different brands like GEM, Ever-Ready and Star. I believe the differences felt on individual razors is due to age, wear and tear and the tolerances on the equipment used 100 years ago to make them. ASR used several different handles over the years which could also contribute to different feel for the user.

The Damaskeene was the first version made and are a little rarer and usually more expensive than the later models because they were only produced for a few years. They can be identified by the warning to only use GEM Damaskeene blades stamped inside the frame, which was dropped after the 1919 merger. The biggest physical difference between the Damaskeene and later 1912 models is the shape of the cover plate. On the Damaskeene model it is slightly rounded, in the patent application it is referred to as being "convexly-concave". After the merger ASR changed the design to the flat version with a bezel at the end for some reason. I prefer the Damskeene version, I think/believe I can feel a difference but that is probably just my imagination.

I've long felt the 1912 is the best razor design ever forged by humans, and they did have some cool ads!

 

[JimmyCB]

I don't believe any one version is inherently more or less aggressive than another, they were all produced by the same parent company just stamped as different brands like GEM, Ever-Ready and Star. I believe the differences felt on individual razors is due to age, wear and tear and the tolerances on the equipment used 100 years ago to make them. ASR used several different handles over the years which could also contribute to different feel for the user.

The Damaskeene was the first version made and are a little rarer and usually more expensive than the later models because they were only produced for a few years. They can be identified by the warning to only use GEM Damaskeene blades stamped inside the frame, which was dropped after the 1919 merger. The biggest physical difference between the Damaskeene and later 1912 models is the shape of the cover plate. On the Damaskeene model it is slightly rounded, in the patent application it is referred to as being "convexly-concave". After the merger ASR changed the design to the flat version with a bezel at the end for some reason. I prefer the Damskeene version, I think/believe I can feel a difference but that is probably just my imagination.

I've long felt the 1912 is the best razor design ever forged by humans, and they did have some cool ads!


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Thanks for sharing these vintage ads and the historical information on GEM-Ever Ready-Star razors. Part of the fun of shaving with vintage razors is imagining who all the past owners were, where they lived, etc.

 

[Old School TSD]

Looks like a couple of real nice 1912 models. One way to confirm is where the handle screws in you should see a stamped 1912, those razors look like 1920's vintage. They MFG those 1912 different models for decades and produced millions during the golden era of new safety razors idea.
I think Gem MFG stamped for other big store brands their name possibly.

Thanks, checked and they are stamped patd 1912 right where you said it'd be.
What are the gem tto models? Wondering if the $35 tto is worth buying from the antique store. I don't mind paying a bit more to support a small business, but not willing to go 3x.

 

[Salty O'Rourke]

Hi,
I am sure this has been discussed somewhere, so sorry if it is a repeat. But this thread alone has 32 pages, making it hard to find.

Anyway, here is my question: I have a Gem Contour II. It’s awfully fun to use, but it does leave a bit of fur behind. Not bad, as it just means stubble appears a little sooner (than say with my Merkur DE), and that is perhaps in style. But if I wanted a closer shave (without risking irritation) is there a next logical Gem razor?

For what it’s worth, I like the carbon steel blades. I tried the PTFE ones and they caused so much irritation I resorted to a prescription lotion! (Maybe I’m allergic to Teflon?)

thanks!!!

Just now seeing this, so pardon the late response. While the Contour II may be "awfully fun", it's a pretty awful razor, easily the worst to wear the GEM mark. For the "next logical" GEM razor, I'd suggest working backward in the GEM timeline. The Contour is a pushbutton version of the Contour II and, to me anyway, gives a slightly better shave. Next previous was the GEM Pushbutton, with a heavier handle and better balance. The Pushbutton is my desert-island GEM razor, the last one I'd part with if I had to get rid of my razors. Plus it came out in 1958, just like me. Pushbuttons are dirt cheap and quite plentiful. You can continue on back with the Featherweight, and the first to use this particular head design, the Heavy Flat Top (G-Bar). You really can't go wrong with any of the older GEMs - the Contour II was the last gasp of a dying shaving system.

 

[Ron R]

Thanks, checked and they are stamped patd 1912 right where you said it'd be.
What are the gem tto models? Wondering if the $35 tto is worth buying from the antique store. I don't mind paying a bit more to support a small business, but not willing to go 3x.

If the razor is in good condition with it's box it might be worth it if you discount shipping on top of it, give them a offer of $30 if you like it. User grade Micromatic can be had for $15-20 with a worn out case & with out a case .

 

[Old School TSD]

If the razor is in good condition with it's box it might be worth it if you discount shipping on top of it, give them a offer of $30 if you like it. User grade Micrmatic can be had for $15-20 with & with out a worn out case.

It didn't have a case, and the handle and head were shiny...but whiskers and soap scum might be hiding blemishes.

 

[HoosierTrooper]

Thanks for sharing these vintage ads and the historical information on GEM-Ever Ready-Star razors. Part of the fun of shaving with vintage razors is imagining who all the past owners were, where they lived, etc.

You’re welcome and I agree it’s fun wondering about the previous owners. My FIL passed away a couple years ago and we found these two packed in a box in his garage, along with a broken Gillette Knack and a 1953 Super Speed. My MIL gave me his 1960 Gillette 195 and 1974 Trac II a few years ago but apparently they forgot about these. He was born in 1927 so the Easy Rider fit into his timeline of razor purchases but the 1912 ER is a bit of a mystery. According to Waites the ER version of the 1912 didn’t come out until 1930, when he was 3, and I’m not sure when production stopped. I’m inclined to believe this belonged to his dad and he ended up with it, but obviously no one will ever know it’s history. Still a family heirloom and it’s really cool that I have them now.

 

[SterFry]

I don't believe any one version is inherently more or less aggressive than another, they were all produced by the same parent company just stamped as different brands like GEM, Ever-Ready and Star. I believe the differences felt on individual razors is due to age, wear and tear and the tolerances on the equipment used 100 years ago to make them. ASR used several different handles over the years which could also contribute to different feel for the user.

The Damaskeene was the first version made and are a little rarer and usually more expensive than the later models because they were only produced for a few years. They can be identified by the warning to only use GEM Damaskeene blades stamped inside the frame, which was dropped after the 1919 merger. The biggest physical difference between the Damaskeene and later 1912 models is the shape of the cover plate. On the Damaskeene model it is slightly rounded, in the patent application it is referred to as being "convexly-concave". After the merger ASR changed the design to the flat version with a bezel at the end for some reason. I prefer the Damskeene version, I think/believe I can feel a difference but that is probably just my imagination.

I've long felt the 1912 is the best razor design ever forged by humans, and they did have some cool ads!


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Responses like this are why I respect this community.

Thank you

 

[Ron R]

Every once in a while I bring a sort of index forward for folks looking for a certain razor & there is a lot of other great information on other pages for the curious.
If you are looking for a Specific GEM model we have covered you will find it on these Post #'s.

GEM G Bar MFG 1955-58 -post #109

Gem 1912 MFG 1921-30 -post #124

GEM Push button Mfg 1958-65- post # 165
Gem MMOC Mfg 1930-41 -post #147

GEM MMBT Flying wing Mfg 1947-50- post #183
GEM MMCP Clog Pruf Mfg 1940-46- post #217

GEM Feather weight Mfg 1950-55 - post #250
GEM Streamline Jewel 2nd Gen Mfg 1949-53- post #390


GEM Junior Bar MFG 1906-11- post #433
GEM Damaskeene OC Mfg 1912-15 - post #454

Gem Time line - post #526,#543 + Many thanks to @mata_66 for his research on timelines.

For folks who bought used Gems with out manuals and other interesting information.

Have some great shaves!

 

[Ron R]

 

[Leverspro]

Yup. Without this stuff I would have given up on GEMs based on my first couple of razors. But the GBar and featherweight are great for me.

 

[ildbig]

what a cool chart!

 

[Ron R]

Well I got my hobby USB Andonstar 500 microscope out recently on some other razor exposures measurements and learned a few things about how to convert some files to Jpg so I can explain better with photographs.
This razor was bought from a razor lot 2 years ago online at the big Auction house(_bay) and this Gem Micromatic or MMOC had a missing blade stop. So I thought it would be nice to file the missing stop down a little to see what kind of blade exposure we are looking at.
Never seen or heard of the Gem MMOC blade exposure expressed so this will give us a reasonable close ball park figure. As most know when tightening a MMOC it will tend to push the blade forward into the blade stops but when one blade stop is missing it skews it quite a bit. To over come this problem I aligned and crazy glued the blade corner and then snugged the top cap. I Did a Visual afterwards and it worked well for this photo exercise. You can get very close measurements with a photo and so here is what I think we have.
Blade is .009 inch thickness and exposure is 2/3 approximately of thickness or .005 to .006 inch or .140mm which is reasonable for a Mid range razor from my experiences using the Gillette adjustable razor blade exposure chart. The MMOC is considered a mid range> IMO so it kind of reasonable. Good thing this is a hobby and I'm retired and had this broken MMOC around.

Gillette Slim or Fatboy adjustable razor settings chart below.

Have some great shaves!

 

[JimmyCB]

Well I got my hobby USB Andonstar 500 microscope out recently on some other razor exposures measurements and learned a few things about how to convert some files to Jpg so I can explain better with a photographs.
This razor was bought from a razor lot 2 years ago online at the big Auction house(_bay) and this Gem Micromatic or MMOC had a missing blade stop. So I thought it would be nice to file the missing stop down a little to see what kind of blade exposure we are looking at.
Never seen or heard of the Gem MMOC blade exposure expressed so this will give us a reasonable close ball park figure. As most know when tightening a MMOC it will tend to push the blade forward into the blade stops but when one blade stop is missing it skews it quite a bit. To over come this problem I aligned and crazy glued the blade corner and then snugged the top cap. I Did a Visual afterwards and it worked well for this photo exercise. You can get very close measurements with a photo and so here is what I think we have.
Blade is .009 inch thickness and exposure is 2/3 approximately of thickness or .005 to .006 inch or .140mm which is reasonable for a Mid range razor from my experiences using the Gillette adjustable razor blade exposure chart. The MMOC is considered a mid range> IMO so it kind of reasonable. Good thing this is a hobby and I'm retired and had this broken MMOC around.

Gillette Slim or Fatboy adjustable razor settings chart below.
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Have some great shaves!

Thanks for the info. I love the expertise that posters on B & B have.

 

[Ron R]

Micromatic dismantled observations
Well this damaged Micromatic(MMOC) was sent to me with a damaged blade stop from the big online Auction house in a razor lot 2 years ago so why not take this one apart for some folks who want to know how it works.
This razor legend was built to last many generations and the engineering is outstanding.
Micromatic (MMOC)were the First TTO in mass production in USA and world wide used a push rack and pinion assisted with a spring that has worked well for myself and millions of others world wide from production of Micromatic variants from 1930-50. Millions were sold that is how much they were enjoyed + built to last generations.

Have some great shaves!

 

[JimmyCB]

Micromatic dismantled observations
Well this damaged Micromatic(MMOC) was sent to me with a damaged blade stop from the big online Auction house in a razor lot 2 years ago so why not take this one apart for some folks who want to know how it works.
This razor legend was built to last many generations and the engineering is outstanding.
Micromatic (MMOC)were the First TTO in mass production in USA and world wide used a push rack and pinion assisted with a spring that has worked well for myself and millions of others world wide from production of Micromatic variants from 1930-50. Millions were sold that is how much they were enjoyed + built to last generations.
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Have some great shaves!

Thanks for the detailed photos. I have 2 TTO MMs, one closed comb and the other open. The TTO mechanisms on both work great after 80+ years. Great testament to their engineering and build quality.

 

[RalonOriginal]

Hi guys i got an clog pruf micromatic without 2 bumps what they usually have it's that normal? Thanks for help

 

[Ron R]

Hi guys i got an clog pruf micromatic without 2 bumps what they usually have it's that normal? Thanks for help

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Looks a standard Clog Pruf 12 nib safety bar but button less(oddity), the 17nib safety bar is called the (Peerless model) and is usually all brass made in 1945. The Peerless is a nice smooth riding mid range because of the extra nibs.
Your razor would be a very rare Gem Clog pruf and was allowed through QC with out being drilled and installed shim buttons placed in. Could be one of a kind to a collector because of its rarity. Nice find!

 

[Leverspro]

Thanks again to @Ron R for the amazing info here. Was given my first mmoc recently and came back to this thread again for help.