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G 10 for scales

I just ordered some g 10 sheets(1/8, not micarta though). Ive made good enough progress working with wood and acrylic to try the g10. What advise would you offer me? I have a bandsaw, benchsander, drill press and buffers. As well as dremels with various sanding drums for detailing and sanding blocks. Ive been finishing the acrylic with bench sander and Ive been using 220,320,600 and 800 grit. Then the emery and white compound for a very nice mirror finish on the buffers. Thanks for listening.
 
Wear a quality repirator, long sleeves and latex gloves, the stuff is itchy.

It also eats up bandsaw blades, use the metal ones, buy lots of sandpaper it eats those up too.
 
Made a set today on some thin stock that a friend had. It was easier than I expected and it cut, sanded very easily. Polishing is easy as well, the mesh does show a bit.
 
Got my g 10 and made a set in blue. Only thing is tape or any kind of adhesive sticks to the face big time. I will have to use permanent marker instead of tape. Or get some solvent. I got the 1/8. i will post some pix soon.
 
I used scotch 2 face tape to put the paper template on the surface. It stuck like crazy. I had to buff it off. I watched a video by Lewis razors and he used tape on top, but did extensive sanding on the top surface, and in another video, he didn't use tape. Im looking to bevel the sides and polish the sides only. I rough cut it and instead of sanding, I used my bench grinder to get the rough shape then used 600 on the bench sander then emery and white compound. It ground very quickly, but the dust!
 
You are so right! I just looked at the package and it is PERMANENT. Sometimes Im my own worst enemy! I still am going to permanent marker them and am going to make some templates out of acrylic or heavy cardboard on the few that I will make. 2 sided acrylic is brainless. Thanks for the heads up on the tape though. And 2 rolls to boot.
 
I have a respirator and use an electric blower to dust myself off. I hear ya about that though. Bone, horn, acrylic etc.
 
Bone horn and acrylic are dangerous.. But the fiberglass in g10 is what's dangerous... Take it from a former cancer institute employee
 
Now you tell me! Using an approved respirator and with adequate ventilation I haven't felt any differently although I only made a few scales. I don't have a blower fan but I do my sanding and grinding in a well ventilated outdoor shed with the door open. I do see how much dust is generated though with all the sanding or grinding and buffing of anything, but the first thing I do when I go into my shed is put my respirator on. I do my pinning, honing etc indoors. I have considered an exhaust fan or blower fan but the power I have to the shed is an extension cord and I only run one thing at a time.
 
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That should be fine... Also consider every time you turn on your belt sander it kicks up dust.... I have a box fan with a normal house air filter zip tied to the back side and I leave that running to catch further particles
 
I love G10 scales.
I hate making G10 scales.

The dot pattern drives me nuts. The dust is incredible and unless you dress it down to about 1/16" its to darn stiff for a proper wedge.
The stuff is bullet proof though - once done, they seem to be indestructible.

I found that, with the 1/8" stuff - the bevel on the edges needs to be angled less than I'd like or those damn dots show.
That's another good reason for using 1/1/6" sheets if you can find it.
I put a Kami-style Feather RG into G10, left them chunky - they balanced well but the wedge turned out like like a chicklet.
It's a nice Ivory chicklet though..
 
Polishing ideas for the g10. Im using emery compound as the material seems to have lots of little scratches and then white compound. Satin finish ideas? Can it be finished to a high polish and how? Hand sanding to 1200 maybe and leave it? . It seems too much sanding makes the fabric dot pattern more obvious. Thanks fellas.
 
I use canvas or linen Micarta on my non-wood knife handles just to avoid all the problems described above. It seems that unless you are looking for a specific color you can only get in g10 the non-glass materials would be better.
-Brian
 
I made the scales and used a medium then fine grinder wheel to shape and remove the bandsaw blade marks and then I used 600 grit on bench sander and then 1k wet dry by hand. The face of the scales, I use 500 then 1k wet dry. Came out very well IMO. Nice satiny finish. The material does have some deep scratches in places. I ordered a 12 x 36 inch sheet of each. I marked the deep scratches with a permanent marker to avoid using them by accident. I may try some emery then white compound, but the satin look is fine imo. I solved the glue issues by using painters tape then the 2 sided perm tape I have. Managed to produce 6 sets of scales in a relatively quick fashion.
 
I made the scales and used a medium then fine grinder wheel to shape and remove the bandsaw blade marks and then I used 600 grit on bench sander and then 1k wet dry by hand. The face of the scales, I use 500 then 1k wet dry. Came out very well IMO. Nice satiny finish. The material does have some deep scratches in places. I ordered a 12 x 36 inch sheet of each. I marked the deep scratches with a permanent marker to avoid using them by accident. I may try some emery then white compound, but the satin look is fine imo. I solved the glue issues by using painters tape then the 2 sided perm tape I have. Managed to produce 6 sets of scales in a relatively quick fashion.

Post some pics when you have time! Sounds like things are shaping up.
-Brian
 
If you are wanting a smooth, shiny finish, try CA. I'm in the process on a set of scales in the blue/black layered color, and it's working wonderfully.
 
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