- Thread starter
- #21
Please let me know how you do this. I know where to buy it, never used it though as scales is relatively new to me.
G 10 for scales
- Thread starter buca3152
- Start date
The layering or the CA
- Thread starter
- #23
I've done it on wood a couple times following the process here:
http://www.shaving101.com/index.php...having/72-restoration-tutorial-ca-finish.html
It's tedious. If I want to get a similar look again my plan is to try bar top epoxy. Got some from lowes waiting for the right project actually.
http://www.shaving101.com/index.php...having/72-restoration-tutorial-ca-finish.html
It's tedious. If I want to get a similar look again my plan is to try bar top epoxy. Got some from lowes waiting for the right project actually.
The basic idea is finishing like on you would finish wood scales... Put on rubber gloves get some cyanoacrylate aka superglue by the can from woodworking store and spread a thin layer around and let it dry completely without touching it or else it'll get cloudy do a couple layers, sandto even out finish then polish as normal... I'm sure there are more complex descriptions online but that's generally how it's done ... Not sure how g10 reacts to superglue
There is no need for CA to get a shiny finish on G10.
If you need it, it means you haven't sanded enough.
Sand, polish and it will be as shiny as you need.
If you need it, it means you haven't sanded enough.
Sand, polish and it will be as shiny as you need.
What grit would you start with? 120?
Good call, I have used various grades of wet dry paper at the final steps for Micarta and G10 works roughly the same.
You can start at whatever grit is most effective for you.
I do all my shaping on a belt grind but I didn't always have that so...
If your working with basic tools, I would use a handsaw to rough shape, dremel for the final outline shape, bastard file of the the contouring, the sand it all smooth, then polish with a light colored polishing rouge for light colored materials, dark for dark.
Thinks of it the same as hand sanding a razor.... don't move up in grit until the prior grit lines have been removed.
I disagree here. Some types of G10 are made to have a rough texture for non-slip knife handles. No matter how well you sand it, you will still have the "polka-dot" texturing showing. I went up to 6000 grit sandpaper and white rouge before I figured out that the material I had was one such piece. Once I applied the CA, I was able to sand it down to a very shiny finish.
Don't take this the wrong way but you bought the wrong type.
I'm going on the assumption people know what type of G10 they are buying.
Basically in your case, your making a material shiny that was never intended to be.
It would be the same as buying a flat or matte paint, then being upset it's not shiny enough.
G10 is pretty cheap, if you buy the wrong stuff return it for the right stuff and save yourself the extra hassle if using CA.
I'm going on the assumption people know what type of G10 they are buying.
Basically in your case, your making a material shiny that was never intended to be.
It would be the same as buying a flat or matte paint, then being upset it's not shiny enough.
G10 is pretty cheap, if you buy the wrong stuff return it for the right stuff and save yourself the extra hassle if using CA.
- Thread starter
- #32
Where can the g10 without the polka dot be bought. I just did a round on a scale, 220, 500 1000, 1200 2000 w dry, then white and blue compound, very shiny polka dots! The stuff I have Ive been hand sanding 220, then 500 then 1k or just stopping at 500. It looks better satin than high polish IMO.
- Thread starter
- #33
Is your material you have been working with true G10 that is glass based?
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- #35
Pics? Of the material maybe ... Not the whole razor to not violate forum rules
- Thread starter
- #37
There might be a common confusion of terms that is worth clarifying. As I understand, the designation G10, is glass fabric substrate and is a coarse cloth and that gives the visual texture you are seeing. There is also canvas, linen and paper Micarta as well and these are non-glass substrates, canvas (cotton), linen fabric and paper is layered paper and is not woven(hence, no dot pattern). Hopefully retailers aren't conflating the two products and selling canvas G10, because you either have G10 or canvas, linen or paper Micarta. You are definitely on the right track to get paper if you want the least visible texture.
-Brian
-Brian
- Thread starter
- #39
What I have is simply labeled as G10, and then it has the dimensions. No other markings, no other information. I understand that it isn't the ideal material for scales, and I wouldn't have bought it had I known that it was the textured type. I know my matte black from gloss black when I see it, but sometimes the cans don't have labels....
At any rate, I added a few coats of CA and sanded down to a very nice glossy finish. I followed the tutorial linked elsewhere in the thread, and totally recommend it to anyone else running into similar problems with whatever scale material you happen to have.
At any rate, I added a few coats of CA and sanded down to a very nice glossy finish. I followed the tutorial linked elsewhere in the thread, and totally recommend it to anyone else running into similar problems with whatever scale material you happen to have.
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