Frankenfeed assembly on my Parker Vacumatic?

[Cartier]

Gentleman,
I need your help! I bought a pen and think the Nib/Feed assembly has been tinkered with in a bad way.


Here is my Parker - Vacumatic - Azure Blue - Blue Diamond - 2nd Quarter 1945 - (Major?)


The nib that came with the pen is completely wrong. It isn't even a Parker and easily fell out. The feed also seems to long.


I was able to unscrew the nib assembly easily so it likely means someone messed with it.


I have problems closing the cap as the feed hits the top after only 1.5 turns. I think the feed is incorrect.


Everything else seems fine. It sucks up water and holds it. It looks to be a Vacumatic Major but I don't understand the nib problems.


Here is my pen capped. However after only 1.5 turns the feed touches the end of the cap.






Here it is posted. Again, I don't think the feed is the correct feed.





Here is the design on the band.





Here is the end cap off so you can see the pump.





Here is the clip. It is in fact a blue diamond but was rubbed out during cleaning.

 

[Cartier]

Here is the feed. I feel like the feed is just too long for the pen.







Here it is capped without the feed. You can see the length is a little shorter.
Also you can see the length of the feed.







Here is the width of the pen.
Just shy of 0.48"





If you are interested in higher res photos you can view the album: HERE

Just click the little cog at the upper right corner of the photo and select: View Full Resolution


I think I am going to have to try and find a Feed/Nib assembly for this pen and replace all of it, to include the nib.

I'm trying to nail down the exact model and such so I can try to purchase it. Is the Feed/Nib the problem or do I have some entire Frankenpen?

What do you guys think?

Thank you in advance for your opinions!

 

[Blue-EyedSon]

I'm certainly not an expert on these things, but the feed looks like others that I have on my Parker vacs. Two quick questions, though: 1) Is the back end of the feed flush with the rear of the part of the section with the threads? 2) Are you sure that it is the feed hitting the top of the cap that is preventing the cap from screwing on further or is it possible that the cap is in fact fully screwed on at that point? I checked my striped vacs (five different models) and each takes about 1-2 full rotations to screw on. Most are quite close to a turn and a half. So, I'm wondering if a turn and half might be normal and not necessarily a sign of a feed that is too long. Maybe?

 

[Mike H]

Sorry I can't help, but if you really get stuck, Danny Fudge does great work.

http://www.thewritepen.net/services.html

 

[nemo]

The feed looks correct, normal, and is positioned within the expected range. I would question the inner cap length, that is what should stop the cap at about 1 full turn.

Vacs sometimes sustain some celluloid shrinkage at the threads, there are experts that can expand the barrel back to the correct size. That doesn't sound like your problem but it could be why someone shortened the inner cap. As Brian noted, it may not be the tip of the feed contacting the inner cap, there should be a fair amount of room in there.

 

[Cartier]

Sorry I can't help, but if you really get stuck, Danny Fudge does great work.

http://www.thewritepen.net/services.html

I think I will have to buy a corresponding nib, otherwise I will have to hit him up.

I'm certainly not an expert on these things, but the feed looks like others that I have on my Parker vacs. Two quick questions, though: 1) Is the back end of the feed flush with the rear of the part of the section with the threads? 2) Are you sure that it is the feed hitting the top of the cap that is preventing the cap from screwing on further or is it possible that the cap is in fact fully screwed on at that point? I checked my striped vacs (five different models) and each takes about 1-2 full rotations to screw on. Most are quite close to a turn and a half. So, I'm wondering if a turn and half might be normal and not necessarily a sign of a feed that is too long. Maybe?

The feed looks correct, normal, and is positioned within the expected range. I would question the inner cap length, that is what should stop the cap at about 1 full turn.

Vacs sometimes sustain some celluloid shrinkage at the threads, there are experts that can expand the barrel back to the correct size. That doesn't sound like your problem but it could be why someone shortened the inner cap. As Brian noted, it may not be the tip of the feed contacting the inner cap, there should be a fair amount of room in there.

The feed is indeed positioned correctly. It sits just slightly outside of flush with the end.

I am pretty sure the feed will hit the end of the cap. I looked into the cap and it appeared marked up. The nib was slightly bent when it was attached and the marks on the top of the cap are probably from that.

When the feed is not in, the barrel and cap will spin 4-5 times before coming to a stop. With the feed assembly in it will only spin about 1.5 times and I am almost 100% certain the feed is hitting the top of the cap. This is very worrisome because if the feed is correct and a correct nib is installed I believe it will easily be bent and damaged when tightening the cap (as the last fake nib was).

To test this I unscrewed the feed assembly slightly so that it would stick out more (as if a Nib were installed) and the cap would only turn .5 - 1 time before coming to a stop. The feed is definitely hitting the top of the cap.

[EDIT]

Ok, now I am not so sure. Here is what I did.

I unscrewed the feed assembly and dropped it into the cap. I wasn't sure if the shelf caught it or the nib was touching. I felt like the nib assembly might have been touching the end of the cap.

I took some white enamel paint and quickly applied a blob to the end of the feed. Dropped it into the cap and spun it. This would have surely left a white mark/streak in the cap.

I pulled the feed out and cleaned it with haste.

I see no white in the cap. Hrrmmm.


[EDIT 2]

So perhaps I blew this out of proportion due to worry.... but where did the marks come from on the top of the cap? From the wrong nib? That is probably the answer.

 

[nemo]

The grip section should be the limiting factor, it rests against the inner cap (the "shelf" you refer to) and seals the nib from drying out when capped. That's your stop. Someone could have pulled it out and shortened it, commonly done "fix" for bad cap threads. To check, you'd need to knock out the feed from the section and see if it's still 1.5 turns when the feed is gone. My USA Vacs are mostly closer to one turn by the way.

FYI, the depth of the inner cap to the cap lip should be about 1.18-1.19" for a 3rd gen. Major like yours.

 

[Cartier]

The grip section should be the limiting factor, it rests against the inner cap (the "shelf" you refer to) and seals the nib from drying out when capped. That's your stop. Someone could have pulled it out and shortened it, commonly done "fix" for bad cap threads. To check, you'd need to knock out the feed from the section and see if it's still 1.5 turns when the feed is gone. My USA Vacs are mostly closer to one turn by the way.

FYI, the depth of the inner cap to the cap lip should be about 1.18-1.19" for a 3rd gen. Major like yours.

Hah! I guess that makes more sense than my way with paint.

I did try it and it is the same. I measured this run and it is actually one rotation such as yours.

Okay then, looks like I am on the hunt for a nib!

I am quite relieved.