Frameback Maintenance

[Frank Shaves]

Does anyone perform any maintenance specific to framebacks. I will start.

When I recently restored a Joseph Rodgers 6/8 frameback there was gunk in the (two) interfaces between the frameback metal and the faces of the blade. I tried to carefully sand and steel wool the interfaces, and then used Q-tips and isopropyl alcohol to clean any residual gunk. Worked out pretty well.

After using the razor, I was concerned about water getting into the interfaces creating more gunk, so I simply held the razor parallel to the ground with the edge facing up, and repeated the process using the Q-tips and alcohol based on the theory that the alcohol would displace any water that might have seeped into the interfaces.

Good idea or am I overthinking this whole thing?

 

[kcb5150]

If it is the hollow tube type frame you should take a little extra care to get it as dry as possible. Removable blade framebacks are always full of water so I always pop them and dry the channel. It's really annoying and I would wash my hands of it if I didn't love the things.

 

[stone and strop]

I was hoping to see more responses as this is the only reason I have never bought one.
Are the solid permanently mounted ones better or are they going to rust at the joint between blade and spine as well?
Been eyeing a beautiful Towa frame back for a while now.

 

[Frank Shaves]

Mine is the type you described, @stone and strop, and it's held up remarkably well for 150 years:

Straight Razor Acquisition Thread | Page 485 | Badger & Blade (badgerandblade.com)

They seem to be readily available for not much money - I paid about $25 for mine - so I would just go for one to see what you think. Do keep an eye out for wear on the spine. Based on what I have read, the piece of metal that forms the spine is often softer than the main blade - therefore, the spine wear.

 

[stone and strop]

Nice job cleaning that one up.
The ones I have been looking at are not tubular though.
More like this.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

I was hoping to see more responses as this is the only reason I have never bought one.
Are the solid permanently mounted ones better or are they going to rust at the joint between blade and spine as well?
Been eyeing a beautiful Towa frame back for a while now.

I just picked up a Dahlgren a week or so ago with a tube spine. Like @Frank Shaves , mine was really clean overall. No obvious rust in the spine, but it has some black oxidation up there.

All the close up shots of those Towas look like they're very tight so I suspect it won't be much of an issue at all. I've been tempted by them too.

 

[Frank Shaves]

The ones I have been looking at are not tubular though.

I assume the one in the picture has removable blades. Unfortunately, I just don't have any experience with these. Perhaps you can find one in the style you like for not a lot of money to see if it works for you.

 

[Frank Shaves]

I just picked up a Dahlgren a week or so ago with a tube spine. Like @Frank Shaves , mine was really clean overall. No obvious rust in the spine, but it has some black oxidation up there.

I noticed the Dahlgren framebacks - after I bought my Wade & Butcher - and really like their design. Now you have me thinking .

You should have no problem getting the black oxide out. You may need to sand both parallel and perpendicular to the edge. The tricky bit is getting close to the spine when you sand perpendicular to the edge. May require some patience/endurance.

 

[stone and strop]

I assume the one in the picture has removable blades. Unfortunately, I just don't have any experience with these. Perhaps you can find one in the style you like for not a lot of money to see if it works for you.

I don't believe the blade would be removable on that one.
Are they all removable? I didn't think so.

 

[alex1921]

I don't believe the blade would be removable on that one.
Are they all removable? I didn't think so.

Nope, the Japanese frame backs, like the Towa you posted, are not removable. I have one laying around somewhere.

 

[kcb5150]

The only spot you really have to make sure you get the water out of on a towa frame is the shallow groove in the bottom of the tang

 

[stone and strop]

Nope, the Japanese frame backs, like the Towa you posted, are not removable. I have one laying around somewhere.

Thank you.

The only spot you really have to make sure you get the water out of on a towa frame is the shallow groove in the bottom of the tang

How exactly would one do that given it is inaccessible short of blowing it out with a compressor?

 

[kcb5150]

It's shallow. You literally can dry it with the corner of a tissue or paper towel. The rest is pretty well sealed.

 

[kcb5150]

The main issue with this style isn't water, it's buying one made with enough care (mainly the blade stuck in the frame at the proper angle and not warped or askew). A good one is awesome though.

 

[stone and strop]

The main issue with this style isn't water, it's buying one made with enough care (mainly the blade stuck in the frame at the proper angle and not warped or askew). A good one is awesome though.

Thank you.
I would have thought that they would silver solder the blade in or something like that. Yours looks like it is. Something to seal the joint.
Looks better than the tube style though, at least to me.

 

[totorlekiller]

Looks better than the tube style though, at least to me.

The feel of the shave is also different. I have not measured it, but I think the difference could be that the Japanese style frameback have thinner blades than European's. That would explain why in the Japanese frameback the part holding the blade is deeper and why Japanese Framebacks feel like full hollow, whereas European's feel like wedge.
As for the look, there are good looking European's framebacks too out-there