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Phoenixkh

I shaved a fortune
Indeed @Phoenixkh, I couldn't agree more.

And I'll take you one further - I'm a B&B class behind you. Did you know I made my first B&B private message to you? I'd been following your photos for a month before I worked up the courage to ask you about the crazy brush I kept seeing in your photos. And since I've followed your posts and journal entries closer than anyone's.

Your move from mid-tier to, now with the WR order, true top tier gear status has been both inspiring and instructive. You've expertly and entertainingly documented your journey and have shared your learnings interactively with the members. Plus you've helped me in several personal affairs, you know what I mean :).

You are one of my mentors more than most here, @Phoenixkh

In addition to the august body of shaving elders you've called out there are even more members from whom I've been the recipient of outrageous generosity and thoughtfulness. I won't go full radio show and tag them all here now. I know they know who they are and how grateful I am for their help.

B&B is a very, very interesting place. I've drifted through many virtual communities in my time and nothing has had this type of...I'm grasping. Brotherhood maybe? Innate goodwill perhaps. It's quite refreshing and a respite in this post covid crazy age we're in.
I do consider us a Brotherhood.... and I feel fortunate to be around such great, informative people. The only addition to "Brotherhood" has to be the women who do show up here and post. We're all shaving brothers and sisters.

Thank you for your kind comments.
 
We're near the end of January and I thought I'd do a reality check on my goals for the month, see how we did.

Not great. Ok I guess :).

It's looking like I only managed two SWS weeks, 50% would get be kicked off the math team that's for sure. It's partially my own hubrus that brought me down - but mostly it was @Guido75 and his devilishly fantastic soap and razor gifts. Those two weeks were basically SWS weeks with "The Guido" kit so I feel like my goal of some kit consistency was still basically met, just not with what I planned originally.

I've posted a ton about how much I'm enjoying the Piccolo, it's been a great razor and has been delivering my best shaves so far. I won't belabor that point more, but I sure appreciate Guido hooking me up with a razor I would have never, ever tried and making me an OC believer. So random, unexpected and fantastic - there's so few things in my life with those elements his gift was like a refreshing North wind blowing through my den.

I've rallied this week and am back on Arko and the new English Tech. While I'm glad I put some serious Arko miles on, I'm equally glad I'll be putting it away for Feburary till Arko theme month - August I suspect? It's a great soap but it's really too strong for me. I'm not man enough for All Arko All the Time. AAAT LOL.

I haven't talked much about brushes here so I thought I'd give a quick update. These were my boars for DecemBOAR:

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  • The Omega Jade
  • The SOC Boar
  • A 2014 B&B Essential Boar I purchased NOS from Murphy & McNiel's online shop
  • The Zenith B33
  • A mighty little Omega 40033 that I was given by a generous local member
At the new year I put the SOC and the B&B into storage. I feel the same as many here about the SOC Boar - Great handle, pretty soft. The B&B is very similar in that way, cool handle but it's too soft, I think it's lofted a tad too high for me.

I'm not using the 40033 anymore but I'm still trying to break it in and have a vague idea about some future project where I put that knot into a handle that's a little easier for my bear paws. It's super stiff, but getting really soft while being super scrubby. I like the knot, hate the handle.

On Jan 1 I also started using the Jade exclusively, while still cycling the B33 and the Omega. I plan to keep at it with the Jade till it's nice and broken in, then move to the B33 and do the same. I'm not 100% sure about the Zenith, I plan to add a Zenith unbleached boar and we'll see if it unseats the B33.

I'm going back and forth on the handle for the unbleached Zenith. I emailed Jose at YourShaving and he's ordering me a 507A XSE in Ivory, I'm also going to get that knot in the butterscotch resin 502 handle. Then I'll know which of those handles I like best, somewhat inexpensively. In case next year I get, say, a Zenith Manchurian in my favorite handle!!

With that, here's my full current rotation:

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Starting at the left there's the aluminum handle Tech and the Fatip SE. Behind them in the stand is a Slim, a birth year Super Adjustable, a Fatboy and a RR GameChanger 84OC. I also have the 64p plate and I'm considering the 84-P plate during their next sale. Part of 2023 is getting those down to four main razors, so I have some testing and choices I'm looking forward to making.

Then there's the RV 25mm STF, a 24mm RV Shavemac Finest (the discontinued grade) I purchased off Reddit for $35, the Jade, baby Omega (sorta), B33 and brand new Mistrua. I think these will keep me busy for 2023 and I've feeling this is a solid beginner's brush set. Plus the 40033 which will be awesome when it breaks in. After I retire sometime I think.

Next to that is a tiny on-deck selection of the soap samples. After my inital 30ish soap sample run, I've only been trying maybe one a week and that's been dwindling significantly. The Sheep stick is a regular lately, along with De Vegulde Hand and Arko. On the shelf below are my two seasonal "fun" soaps Atomic Pumkin and Christmas Eve

I'm digging my shaving trajectory for 2023. I'm looking to really dial in my technique and I feel like I can get out of brush/razor/soap accumulation for a bit, now that I've got some solid mid-tier hardware and software that I enjoy using. Hopefully that's not just wishful thinking.

Here's the latest batch of sample reviews. Happy Shaves!!


Taylor of Old Bond Street - Eton College
Mild scent, very mild. This was my first time using a crème and it's a lot different than a soap. Easier? Seemed to explode in lather really. I should have face lathered with this rather than bowl lather - I'll remember that for next time. And now I want to try a super lather!

I like the Eton College scent, it's preppy. Fresh, citrus and a bit of musk. It really does smell like a young aristocrat :). If I get into creme's this may the the one I get.

Declaration Grooming Nightman
What a fantastic base! This is the Milksteak, I'm not sure how I nailed it the first try with DG but I got the water ratio right with this and it was rich and slick, on the thinner side compared to say, CK-6 which I like. It's made my top 5 bases easily. Nightman is pretty mild off the puck, citrus and grapefruit forward. Lathered up the scent strengthens significantly and there's like a chewing gum, sweet but not sweet note that sticks it's head out.

Looking at the scent profile here - lime, booze, and woods. Well, dang. I wasn't really that close. Woods?! Please. Maybe if it's the "woods" in the plaza of your condo subdivision.

Wholly Kaw - Jamestown Gentleman
Dang, yet another fantastic base. WK is in there with DC, Catie's bubbles and CK-6. Firmer than most in the soft soap category, it's was easy to lather, kept slick and rich. I'd say it had solid post slickness but it had a really nice post shave feel. As good or better than any of the artisan soft soaps I've tried.

I haven't tried many tobacco soaps, my first impression of JG was "Friendly!" lol. It's a semi-sweet tobacco/fougere initially that gets milder when lathered. It also gets wetter, more organic maybe, all on your face. Like someone slapped a big tobacco leaf on your face, left it and ran off laughing hysterically.

The Zingari Man - The Explorer
Hey, another elite artisan soap that's easy to work into a slick rich lather! I'm getting sort of embarrassed of saying that over and over but so many of these modern US artisan bases are performing within 10-15% of each other. I'm starting to get the impression it probably does not matter that much which one you pick, honestly. Zingari Man is fantastic, as good as Catie's and CK-6 for sure.

Bergamont and lime is what hit me first, and a freshness. It got stronger latered up and more "perfumey" I have here in my notes. Hmm, what does that mean? I see the scent notes are citrus, cedar, vetiver, benzoin. I didn't get any cedar, but vetiver/benzoin probably gave it the bite I sensed.

MdC Agrumes
Sometimes you can feel the bolt just slot just right or you make that last network change and see all the flashy lights go from red to green. Using MdC today was another one of those moments - I may have found one of my final soaps!! It's a strong scent to me, fresh and citrusy like fizzly Swiss milk smoothy. It's lively and forward, sharp rather than subtle. But somehow not overwhelming at all. Using it smells like drinking the best semi-sweet lemon/limeaide ever.

The MdC base is well known to most of you so I won't go on about it other than to say it seems to prove to me that the tallow/vegan debate is pointless, this was the top or 2nd best base I've tried - out of almost a dozen at this point.

I think what I know what my first top-tier soap is going to be. Right along with a SV 70th set!
I love your boar collection! There is just something special about a well broken in boar brush to me. I love WK soaps and their base is exceptional to me. It's on the pricy side of soaps though. I need to try more ZM soaps I have two and like them both. Another soap on my "need to try list" is MdC and SV!!! I'm just trying not to add any new tubs till I kill a few more off.
 
I love your boar collection! There is just something special about a well broken in boar brush to me. I love WK soaps and their base is exceptional to me. It's on the pricy side of soaps though. I need to try more ZM soaps I have two and like them both. Another soap on my "need to try list" is MdC and SV!!! I'm just trying not to add any new tubs till I kill a few more off.

Thank you man!! Coming from you, with one of the world's most impressive collection of brushes, that's SO nice and, yes I'll say it, reassuring to hear.

That's what's so great about B&B. As a new wetshaver, after doing some (ok, a lot) or reading it was pretty easy to cherry pick what everyone seems to love right off the bat. I read a ton of @dmshaver and @Tanuki's posts in particular.

The B&B Boar was just the most amazing luck, they had just posted it for sale not long before I did a search for "boar limited edition" and there it was at the top of the page on ebay for $35. Why did I even randomly type that in? I never do that. Pffft. Because it's special and I got it newish so cheaply, it's one I like even if it's not in my rotation.

WK is amazing!! Looking back now, if it wasn't the "best" US artisan base I tried it was right in there. "Best" for me is really a metric how much I go "wow" during the shave and that happend a lot with WK. It seems worth investing in a set of samples to try to find a great scent I love of it.

@NomadicDave, you've been rocking Tactical Support for a while now. I've read that's a powerful soap! You seem like a man not afraid of a strong scent. If I were you, I'd go grab a sample - or two? I know you managing your soap intake - of MdC from maggards. Unless you just hate citrus, try Agrumes. Seriously. I can see you jumping around excitedly with a headful of MdC lather right now!!

I don't usually do this but with my MdC Agrumes sample I scooped it out and pressed it out it in an empty jar I so I could lather directly off it. I've used it for 11 shaves and it doesn't really seem dented.

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There's another 20 in there? At least. More I'd say. I'm not making the mistake of just doing eight or nine swirls on the soap either, that's with my normal 20-30 second load time.

So for you, that'll last what, like three days? :laugh::laugh:
 
Today marks a month of The Way of Arko. This was my first encounter with Arko, I waited six months into my journey before I asked it for our first dance. In some ways I'm glad I waited but mostly I feel I should have started with Arko much much earlier.

Arko is just so easy and forgiving to use. I can't tell you how many oops moments I had this month.
  • Dang. That was more like a cup of water than a teaspoon.
  • Wait, did I add any water?
  • That's a great song! Woha, I think I just loaded for more than two minutes
  • Did I really just drop the puck in the sink full of water? Again?
  • Oh man, I left the puck on the outside windowsill in subzero temps and turned it into a hockey puck. Again.
Even with of all this newbie abuse abuse thrown at it, Arko delivered a good lather quickly in a bowl or on the face every time. Except the time I forgot to add any water.:lol: Duh. There's levels of dumb even Arko can't overcome.

And it's shockingly hardy. I attacked this puck with my outsized soap bully Omega Jade boar brush the whole time. Attacked it. Especially at first, till I figured out out I wasn't getting much soap on the center tips of the brush and lightened up my loading brush pressure. When I started at the beginning of the month, the puck was pretty new, rattling around in the container, and had perhaps eight shaves on it.

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25ish shaves later it doesn't even look dented. In fact, it looks like it's grown!! There's that one spot where I carved some off to make a graveyard Mike's/Arko shaving stick, which is in my travel kit now (and is a frothy fun mix). Considering this'll be used only occasionally and during Arko Month moving forward I think this puck may last Twinkie-long.

Sure. The scent is very strong, especially off the puck. Especially when it's first opened. It dissipates quickly though to just strong. But about halfway through the time you're building it in a bowl or on your face the scent mellows considerably to the point I'm not thinking about the smell while I'm shaving, for good or ill. It's perfectly acceptable in real life use.

It's a little drying, it's not filled with skin enhancers, it's prone do dry on your face quicker if you are lollygagging between shaves like I tend to. But it's protective, easy to use and I could buy three of these pucks for less than I spent on breakfast this morning. I'm firmly on the Arko bandwagon, if only occasionally hitching a ride. The Arko Uber, maybe.

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I've decided I'm going to spend the next few SWS campaigns revisiting Mike's Natural Barbershop. It was the first "real" shaving soap I purchased and sort of became the control variable of my later soap comparisons. I'm curious to see what I think about it, all this time later, using more experienced eyes. And different brushes :).

Well, a different brush. I've decided to keep using the Jade for a few more weeks. It's got close to 35 shaves on it now and I think it's starting to break in? Maybe?

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It sure feels softer. Over the last two weeks, in fact, much softer. As if the tips finally just relaxed. I suspect that was the tips finally hitting some sort of splitting critical mass. Still nicely firm however.

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I'm just going to admit here (and deny it elsewhere) that I'm considering buying a second one of these brushes as a backup. Is that crazy? I read these last decades of regular use, which this isn't going to see once I get back into a rotation.

But I worry. What if I slip and it goes careening in a perfect arc right into the toilet, you know?

The Tech Tests of Technique are going to continue for at least a few more weeks. With this SWS I'm making some adjustments other than the soap. I'm changing out the aluminum handle for a heavier but still smallish RR vintage thin handle, the one I've been using with the GameChanger. I have two other heavier RR handles I'll try as well.

At some point I'd like to figure out what handle style, weight and size I really prefer for vintage Gillette's - then maybe get a 10/32 @Rosseforp version along those lines :001_tt1:

Lastly, I'll be swapping out the Gillette Platinum for a Nacet. I've read a lot about the mild razor/sharper blade combination and I'm wondering if I can enhance the Tech's efficiency while maintaining it's smoothness. The Nacet seems to be a popular party guest here and I've read it's thought of as a step up in sharpness than the platinum while not being too harsh. I purchased a 100 pack months ago and tried one - I don't even remember what I thought of it.

I've been having more wonderful direct conversations with many of you here which have been helpful, generous and warmly embracing into the fold of our hobby. They've been both educational and socially expanding. I feel like I'm developing some real friendships and that's something special and uncommon. And ultimately causing a real storage problem in my bathroom.
 
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⬆️⬆️ Epic post!! ⬆️⬆️

What a fun read Flask and a great road of progress. Arko is the one (wel, there are actually a number of ones - take The Veg for example, but I think I’ll rather shave with no baseplate than try that!) thing I have not tried yet in all my time here on B&B. And to think the LOTH mentioned this morning that she likes the lemon, citrus type of soaps. Imagine that! Hates Tabac and potentially loves Arko!

Nice pairing with the thin handle! I have put that on my wish list for when I complete GRUYERE.

Enjoy your shave!!
 
As I was reading through the journals today, home with a nasty head cold, it struck me what made so many of your posts readable and enjoyable - You don't write multi-subject novella length wandering posts. I'm going to try to post more frequently, but with less length. :) That's hard though, both because I go on and on (it's genetic, you should talk to my uncle about wildcat bullet casting, but set aside like six hours) and because I love writing about this hobby.

I've been thinking about angle a lot the last few shaves. Finally, right? I should have been focusing on this, oh, six months ago when I started. :) There's a ton of good threads about it here and awesome graphics. I liked this one a lot:

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As well as this this more recent one. I'm still chortling at @Chan Eil Whiskers' excellent post that included one of his many monikers:

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What I've realized over the last few shaves is that I'm not being nearly deliberate enough in finding and keeping an angle that works for the razor and my face. I think this is one of the root issues behind my struggle to clean up my neck efficiently. Now that I'm concentrating on keeping an angle at all, and choosing to keep it somewhat steep with my English Tech, the closeness of my shaves have taken some jumps.

But only on my face. Now, I see, I struggle mightily to keep the correct angle on my neck, especially on S-N and W-E passes. I never noticed that inconsistency until very recently. My concentraion was rewarded in my Saturday shave with very little neck stubble after two passes, but less so yesterday. Now 12ish hours later my face is still very smooth but my neck....did I even shave my neck?!

Keeping the angle correct on the two neck strokes, that's what I really need to build some muscle memory around.
 

Phoenixkh

I shaved a fortune
I'm sure I'm guilty of long posts. I have mixed feelings about it. I like to read, so I don't mind reading the long posts others submit, especially when we are discussing a shaving genre, individual pieces of equipment, technique, etc. Then, I quite like the longer explanations. I seem to learn more from those discussions.

On the other hand, sometimes, I rattle on too long, as I muse in font, etc.. I should remind myself: I don't have to type everything I think. ;)
 
I'm sure I'm guilty of long posts. I have mixed feelings about it. I like to read, so I don't mind reading the long posts others submit, especially when we are discussing a shaving genre, individual pieces of equipment, technique, etc. Then, I quite like the longer explanations. I seem to learn more from those discussions.

On the other hand, sometimes, I rattle on too long, as I muse in font, etc.. I should remind myself: I don't have to type everything I think. ;)

I love your posts! I don't think they are long at all and they never really wander. Don't change up. I felt like I was in Bali with you on your last trip and that was great!
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
I like good posts which means good short posts and good long posts.

When reading on the internet as opposed to books and such I find it much easier going when the paragraphs are fairly short and there is some space.



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I like photos and good writing.



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A trip to Bali may not happen in my lifetime, but I certainly don't mind reading about one.

My least favorite comment is TLDR.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
I was out at the dog park this weekend and actually took my kit to take photos. What is B&B doing to me?

This is my Omega Jade, Dog Park Edition:

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You can see the white splotch of a dog racing over to bite me :).

I also got in a photo of this week's SWS setup but after a bunch of tries I didn't get one I liked as much as that brush. Outdoor photos are hard!

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I'm keeping the Tech Technique Trials alive this week, I feel like i'm in a period where I'm learning something and improving every shave. It helps that I'm working hard not to space out and to really think about what my hand and razor are doing. It's pretty easy to just start listening to the radio, go into FlaskLand and not get too much out of the shave experience :). Maintaining a good angle around the jawline onto the next was a big focus for me last week and I'm going to keep that up.

I'm making one small change this week, swapping out the RR Vintage Thin for a RR UFO handle that I've had unused since I got it as an extra in a BST purchase. It's likely too heavy, but it's the longer length and diameter I'm evaluating. I've noticed my pinky finger fits neatly under the UFO handle while the Vintage Thin is too short for me to take that same comfortable grip.

I did feel like the heavier but similar diameter Vintage Thin handle was an improvement for me compared to the stock handle this Tech came with. Much better gription (?!) and the additional weight made it easier to keep a consistent light pressure applied.

I found and started reading the BootLegger's aftershave threads over the last week. Not being a big aftershave guy I was surprised how interested in trying some of those out I became. :) I might have to start keeping an eye out for Pinaud sales and go dig out the witches' cauldron from the basement.
 
I just finished up my first shave with what I'll now be calling The Guido from Mars Configuration.

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The UFO handle added a whole new "dimension" (sorry, had to) to the Tech experience, far more than I expected it to. There's a lot I like about it in comparison to the other handles I've tried. You are right @desertcat, the modern knurling really makes a big practical difference, it's much much grippier than anything else I've used.

The 13mm diameter did feel surprisingly more sure in the hand than the 10mm of the Vintage Thin. While it sapped a lot of the switchblade feel of the OEM and even VT handle's gave it, the razor was more comfortable with a more deliberate feel. I'm going to be paying attention to that aspect this week, how that really feels in the hand. I do like the 85mm length, the pinky-supported grip is nice and something I can't pull off with the shorter 76mm VT.

The UFO's 65g weight was sort of a shock after months of much lighter handles, the 25g difference was really "good lord, it's a hammer!" first impression. Part of my issue with the weight may be more about the balance than the actual mass - which is not great. It's a very butt-heavy razor right now with the balance point practically in the middle of the handle.

Pros and cons, all very interesting.

Those following my recent journey know I'm at that newbie stage where I'm fussing over the direction of my passes and trying to figure all that out. @Guido75 recently gave me some good advice that echoed what @Tanuki told me in my first week of wetshaving - don't worry about it too much.

To back that up even more, over the weekend I found this fantastic thread on the subject that was very illustrative and fun to read. Not just because of a funny-level of B&B sass in that discussion :) but because some comments really sounded right to me, I was connecting to what they said. @SharpieB knows what's up.

I think it's funny I mentioned The Bootlegger Brigands in my last post because it was none other than @OkieStubble's post that hit home the most. I think he and I could have the same face. :) Which is a little creepy to write, I just realized. Sorry man.

Face Off Movie GIF


So for this shave I didn't worry about any of it really. A N-S pass, then an E-W pass shifting diagonally on my neck and finishing with a cleanup S-N pass worked great. No invisible but noticeable stubble in that spot that I'd normally have to show who's boss. And I remembered to use the lather in the brush for the 3rd pass this time, go flask!

Sorry @OkieStubble for stealing your beard. And thank you for all the work on the Bootlegger blends!
 
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.... It's pretty easy to just start listening to the radio, go into FlaskLand and not get too much out of the shave experience :). Maintaining a good angle around the jawline onto the next was a big focus for me last week and I'm going to keep that up.

I'm not the most experienced one, with only a few years to lean on. But there's one thing I might add to all the suggestions you find on B&B, especially for the less experienced: shave without radio. Building up lather and cleaning up with music: no problem. But during the actual shaving: do it in silence. You might hear how good your angle is, how necessary (or not) the buffing, parts where your hairimplant is different, ....
It helped me a lot to improve my shaving skill, getting a nicer shaving experience and better result. Just my suggestion.
(I realise I confuse your date of entering B&B with your level of experience and expertise, so you might disregard this suggestion and give me some tips instead :love-struck: )
 

lasta

Blade Biter
Your symptoms are rather mild honestly. Should have started shaving in public!

Then you can apply for BOSC.

I used to be a show-off Guido-like college kid. Made sure that I stood at the closest sink to the locker room door so that my straight razor shaves would be noticed by passerbys.
 
I'm not the most experienced one, with only a few years to lean on. But there's one thing I might add to all the suggestions you find on B&B, especially for the less experienced: shave without radio. Building up lather and cleaning up with music: no problem. But during the actual shaving: do it in silence. You might hear how good your angle is, how necessary (or not) the buffing, parts where your hairimplant is different, ....
It helped me a lot to improve my shaving skill, getting a nicer shaving experience and better result. Just my suggestion.
(I realise I confuse your date of entering B&B with your level of experience and expertise, so you might disregard this suggestion and give me some tips instead :love-struck: )

Thanks @Ligeti! That is hitting me as reasoned and wise advice. Reflecting some, I don't think I would have understood that advice six months ago. But I sure do after these weeks of Tech Technique Trials. And I'll take it! Like you mention, I'm often (often trying, perhaps) to use the sound of the blade, as much as the feel, to find and keep my angle.

Now that you say that, it seems obvious not dancing around to Flock of Seagulls will make it easier to focus.



And like you say, mastered, that skill will save me Wolfman money on ruined hair implants.

No, please! Your assumptions are dot on. I started shaving only weeks before my B&B birthday, so your advice is both welcome (as it would be anytime!) as well as desperately needed :o16: Thank you!!
 
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