About to start a AR-9 build, so what light do you recommend for the M Lock rail?
Flash lights on your AR
- Thread starter honeycutt
- Start date
How much are you willing to spend? Odin Works makes a nice M-Lok mount that will accommodate any 1 in. body flashlight. Will your AR 9 be a "pistol" or a carbine?
- Thread starter
- #3
Will be a pistol ( folding brace ), most of my parts for this build came from Odin Works. I'll check them out.
For a pistol, I'd consider one of the more compact lights. Maybe a rail mount like you might use on a conventional pistol. I repurposed an old Surefire 6P using the aforementioned Odin mount on my 300 BO, works great but is a tad bulky.
Olight is about to have a lack Friday sale. You'll be able to get an 1260lumen, Odin Mini w/ pressure switch for $100.60...
www.olightstore.com
Odin Mini Tactical Light
●Huge Performance: A maximum output of 1,250 lumens and a 240-meter beam distance ●Professional WML: Included slide rail mount with a mechanical lock for a fast and secure attachment/detachment. (Compatible with Picatinny rails with the optional Pic Rail Adapter) ●Innovative Remote Switch: The...
www.olightstore.com
Olight is about to have a lack Friday sale. You'll be able to get an 1260lumen, Odin Mini w/ pressure switch for $100.60...
Odin Mini Tactical Light
●Huge Performance: A maximum output of 1,250 lumens and a 240-meter beam distance ●Professional WML: Included slide rail mount with a mechanical lock for a fast and secure attachment/detachment. (Compatible with Picatinny rails with the optional Pic Rail Adapter) ●Innovative Remote Switch: The...
That's alot of lumens. Is that too much of a good thing?
Depends I suppose. Outside I wouldn't think so... Indoors? Flash a badguy standing against a light colored wall and EVERYBODY is blind! That's why I want a dual band NV set-up with a PVS-31 NV monocular and an iRay MH25 thermal monocular. I SEE you, you DON'T see me!That's alot of lumens. Is that too much of a good thing?
Mount a 930NM illuminator and an IR laser (Or just add a Steiner D-BAL and be done) and super happy fun times ensue. 
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Depends I suppose. Outside I wouldn't think so... Indoors? Flash a badguy standing against a light colored wall and EVERYBODY is blind! That's why I want a dual band NV set-up with a PVS-31 NV monocular and an iRay MH25 thermal monocular. I SEE you, you DON'T see me!
Why do I have the feelin' you can actually afford all that?
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks fellas
- Thread starter
- #10
I am able to get all Olight products through my work for 30 to 40% off. I did a search this morning and found one I liked, so I'll go with that. Thanks
Mild thread drift.
Executive Summary-Look at Streamlight.
I wrote this on another forum re hand held light but it pertains here as well.
"I would consider Streamlight as it probably has more product out there than anybody given how well they do the intersection of quality and value. You can ascertain the country of manufacture on their website on the "fact sheet" under the Documentation Tab of each of their products. They assemble in both the USA and China (PRC), depends on the product. A quick sampling of multiple weapons lights indicated that the majority of them are assembled in the USA.
Cheapest Price/Intersection of Quality and Value/Best Quality. Usually 3 distinct price points. Often Far East to USA/Europe re point of manufacturing. I suppose it depends on what your application is going to be. "Mission Drives the Gear"
I have posted this before in this and other contexts. I know that anything manufactured in China (PRC) (i.e. Olights) can be made to any QC point. Apple and Arcteryx are two examples of superlative products being made in the PRC.
As I have gotten older, gotten wiser and the events of the last 8+ months, have all led me to the "buy once cry once" end of the consumer spectrum and away from the intersection of quality and value that drove my train, particularly when my children were younger. By definition, this tends to be a migration away from products made in the PRC.
I am making a conscious decision to not buy products from the PRC when an non PRC alternative can be sourced. To date this has manifested itself in:
Flashlights, Boots, Dress and Causal Clothes, Cookie Sheets, Muffin Pans, Pizza Cutters, Measuring Cups, Glass Measuring/Baking Ware, Shoe Trees/Shoe Horns/Shoe Laces, Pens/Pencils/Inks, Batteries, Hand Tools etc.
Have I spent more money-yes. Have I received a quality product that delivers better performance-absolutely.
Would I spend more money again even if the performance of the items were exactly the same (PRC v. NON PRC Products with a solid tilt toward Made in the USA)-Without a Doubt.
YMMV Greatly.
Blessings to you all in this time.
Executive Summary-Look at Streamlight.
I wrote this on another forum re hand held light but it pertains here as well.
"I would consider Streamlight as it probably has more product out there than anybody given how well they do the intersection of quality and value. You can ascertain the country of manufacture on their website on the "fact sheet" under the Documentation Tab of each of their products. They assemble in both the USA and China (PRC), depends on the product. A quick sampling of multiple weapons lights indicated that the majority of them are assembled in the USA.
Cheapest Price/Intersection of Quality and Value/Best Quality. Usually 3 distinct price points. Often Far East to USA/Europe re point of manufacturing. I suppose it depends on what your application is going to be. "Mission Drives the Gear"
I have posted this before in this and other contexts. I know that anything manufactured in China (PRC) (i.e. Olights) can be made to any QC point. Apple and Arcteryx are two examples of superlative products being made in the PRC.
As I have gotten older, gotten wiser and the events of the last 8+ months, have all led me to the "buy once cry once" end of the consumer spectrum and away from the intersection of quality and value that drove my train, particularly when my children were younger. By definition, this tends to be a migration away from products made in the PRC.
I am making a conscious decision to not buy products from the PRC when an non PRC alternative can be sourced. To date this has manifested itself in:
Flashlights, Boots, Dress and Causal Clothes, Cookie Sheets, Muffin Pans, Pizza Cutters, Measuring Cups, Glass Measuring/Baking Ware, Shoe Trees/Shoe Horns/Shoe Laces, Pens/Pencils/Inks, Batteries, Hand Tools etc.
Have I spent more money-yes. Have I received a quality product that delivers better performance-absolutely.
Would I spend more money again even if the performance of the items were exactly the same (PRC v. NON PRC Products with a solid tilt toward Made in the USA)-Without a Doubt.
YMMV Greatly.
Blessings to you all in this time.
Depends I suppose. Outside I wouldn't think so... Indoors? Flash a badguy standing against a light colored wall and EVERYBODY is blind! That's why I want a dual band NV set-up with a PVS-31 NV monocular and an iRay MH25 thermal monocular. I SEE you, you DON'T see me!
D-BAL remote switch cords/switches were absolute garbage in '07-'08. I broke 3 in 5 months without Hulk SMASH-ing them, just common carry. it was just easier to run it off the body for me at the time.
I don't know what your experience level is, but you don't need to run all those, together. not half of them. NVG Compatible red dot type system and an NVG dual tube set up works just fine. NVG mono and thermal/NVG internal optics work really well. perhaps an NVG filter on a light works a charm... until you ND a white light because you forgot to check the NVG filter was in place. it will read as soft purple out to about 75m by the bad guy if he has good eyes and SA. cheaper than an IR, IR/laser combo too if that factors.
my Streamlight Protec and Cloud Defense programmed (steady and strobe, momentary and on/off) remote switch/picitenny mount do everything I need (still a keymod/pic forearm), but is bright indoors. I'd have to look up the lumens. works real well on a 0% illum outdoor range.
on a carbine/pistol, I'd run a pistol styled, easy ergo light, or a system I'm familiar with across other platforms.
my pistol lights at 600-800 lumen do everything I need in pistol caliber ranges.
For what I'm doing I'm sure TNVC's in house binos would work just fine. Add a Tricon Hunter IR MKII 60mm or a N-Vision Halo LR to my rifle and I should be golden. Scan with the NV, flip one of the monoculars out of the way to identify and shoot with the thermal. Mainly just nuisance animal eradication. I'm running a CHEAP! but not bad Sightmark Wraith right now while I make choices. Honestly, for the price I can't complain other than it needs a much better illuminator that what is supplied. Currently have a 50LXR on back order to help see the hogs and yotes.
Leaning towards this set-up to start out.
TNV/DTNVG Dual Tube Night Vision Goggle – Tactical Night Vision Company
Lightweight Binocular NVG ***ALL TNV NIGHT VISION SYSTEMS ARE SEMI-CUSTOM UNITS BUILT TO ORDER--CURRENT LEAD TIME ON TNV/DTNVGS IS APPROXIMATELY 20-24 WEEKS*** Recommended Accessories: Wilcox L4 G24 Mount - BUY HERE
tnvc.com
P.S. I am just barely beyond noob status when it comes to seeing in the dark (the info to absorb is mind boggling) so an info on gear, tube specs, yada yada you wanted to share would be deeply and gratefully apprecaited! I hate to spend money twice... been there done that!
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I'd likely still go NVG mono tube weak eye, thermal on weapon for that. you can train scanning with both quickly. stalking with the mono/plain eye for depth perception if you don't have experience walking NVGs is a solid set up, you just need to train a head sweap for NVG field of view coverage. from there present the weapon to scan through a thermal/nvg for a snap shot. NVG only systems definitely benefit from a good illuminator. thermals see though concealment ok, range/density dependent, won't through cover (dense enough to stop rounds, based on military definitions of cover and concealment).
our nuisances could shoot back, so I was speaking more to CQB/Defensive shooting set ups. we (I) used visible lasers more as a signalling device, to mine and to them. put a red/green sparkle on their ride or position and they pay attention. IR lasing was for mine to see, or to target them.
D-Bals work well at small arm ranges. zeroing them wasn't as accurate as I'd have liked, holds were hard to hold in my head at the ranges I was working.
our nuisances could shoot back, so I was speaking more to CQB/Defensive shooting set ups. we (I) used visible lasers more as a signalling device, to mine and to them. put a red/green sparkle on their ride or position and they pay attention. IR lasing was for mine to see, or to target them.
D-Bals work well at small arm ranges. zeroing them wasn't as accurate as I'd have liked, holds were hard to hold in my head at the ranges I was working.
Nice post. Very educational.
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