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First Straigh Razor Shave - Impressed Myself!

So, I guess I should really begin back a few days after my intro post. Forum compatriot Celestino contacted me, and mentioned that he had a straight razor (a Greaves and Sons Wedge) which he was preparing to PIF - however if I was interested I was welcome to drop by and take it off his hands. Of course I jumped at the offer, and during our visit he was kind enough to also set me up with some soap (MJ's Pina Colada) in a fancy bowl, an alum block, and a razor in need of some TLC for when I was ready to play with honing. Of course, he also proffered some advice, which came to great use this evening. In the mean-time, I purchased a stropping kit (which Canada Post proceeded to send on a trip across the country after a hiatus in a sorting center in Alberta) and a set of ascending grades of lapping film, for when I'm ready to attempt to hone.

As I mentioned in my intro post, I have shaved with a DE straight in the past (albeit not for several years), and also had learned to prefer Williams to canned goo; and also knew of the wonders of Proraso pre-shave cream. I decided while awaiting for my strop to see more of my country than I have that I would put the MJ's soap to the test against my tried and tested Williams - using, for the time being, my Gillette Fusion. I went through a pre-shave routine involving a splash of hot water, Proraso, hot towel for two minutes, and more Proraso. I then applied the MJ's to one half of my face using the synthetic brush Celestino provided, while applying Williams to the other half using my drug-store boar brush. I utilized WTG and ATG passes only, reapplying the applicable soap between each.
I found that the MJ's did provide a much more luxurious lather, and it seemed not only slicker, but softer. This appears to have been substantiated by the absence of irritation, particularly in the neck areas. Unsurprised, I washed up the brushes, and relegated the Williams to the back of the cupboard for emergencies. A rinse, a quick wipe with the alum and a splash of witch hazel and I was happy.
My next couple of shaves followed the same pre-shave and shave routine, with the exception of whipping up both soaps - I simply stuck with the MJ's.

Today, Canada Post FINALLY delivered my stropping kit! Of course, being the father of a toddler and an infant, despite my desire to drag sharp things across my face as soon as I walked in the door, it just wasn't happening. When I finally got the toddler to sleep, I locked myself in the bathroom, and giggling like a school-girl, I prepared my toys. Sixty laps on both 0.3 and 0.1, then another 60 on each side of the leather strop, and into my pre-shave.
Tentatively, I performed the first pass, going WTG. Slowly and carefully, I trimmed down the two-day growth, stopping any time the razor seemed to slow down or when things just didn't look of feel right. I took a full twenty minutes on this pass as I figured out how to stretch my face, but as you can see I did a damn good job, if I do say so myself!




With my confidence bolstered, I decided I would attempt an XTG pass. Once again, I lathered up and went at it. Again, it took me a good twenty minutes to finished up this pass, but again I found myself with an even closer shave - although I do have to say it was a real pain trying to trim up around the goatee (you may be right yet, Celestino...). With two extremely minor little nicks at this point, I was starting to feel like I could get the hang of this.
So, I lathered up again. And very carefully, started an ATG pass. This time, I actually sped up, finishing in fifteen minutes (guess I'm getting better at the face stretching thing / finding comfortable grips). After a good rinse with hot water and a rub of the alum (still only the two bleeders!) and a splash of WH, I faceturbated for a few minutes, feeling the shave. I came out with BBS cheeks, a DFS jawline and *most* of my neck, and a SAS around the adam's apple and where the goatee meets jawline! A little bit of irritation, particularly around the neck, but nothing I can't handle (and really, nothing worse than I get with the carts and Williams).




Finished up with 30 passes on the suede, 60 on the skin and a dab of mineral oil. Repurposed a church-warden stand to hang my brush from as it dries - have to say I'm actually kind of excited that I'll have to shave again before the weekend is out!
 

rockviper

I got moves like Jagger
Well done! An ATG pass on your first time out is pretty brave, but the results speak for themselves. Looks good to me! :clap:
 
Great job man. It seems as if you've fallen in love like we all have. It gets even better. Celestino is a good man.

Btw, you missed a couple spots on your chin and lip ;)
 
Very nice first one! Definitely a good plan waiting til the kids are asleep for your first shave. I don't always have that chance, but I made my son aware that he needed to stay far away when I was learning on a shavette.
 
quietness and the sounds of the straight razors are like music to your ears!....I have a full and near wedge..both quietly and effortlessly scare off the whiskers...:thumbup:
 
Might as well turn this into a shave journal. I am either cursed or blessed, depending on how one looks at it, with rather fast beard growth. After 36 hours, I was ready to make my second attempt at shaving with a straight-razor.



I used the same pre-shave routine outlined above (it works for me, and I am comfortable with it), however prepared my lather this time in a bowl, rather than on the face. I felt that the lather I generated this way was slicker and offered more cushion - although that could also be due to my growing more familiar with the MJ's product.
Once again, I made three passes - WTG, XTG and ATG - and was rewarded with a solitary weeper. I did, however, end up with some pretty hardcore razor-burn and irritation...my neck is not a happy place at the moment. As for the shave, I ended up with BBS cheeks again, and managed what I would consider a DFS along the jawline and neck; peppered with a couple of extremely smooth spots. To combat the irritation, I applied Nivea AS Balm (sensitive); I think with my next shave I'll actually try using the Pre-shave cream with each relather.
Overall time: 45 minutes (bit faster!)

 
On Wednesday, I made my third attempt at straight-razor shaving; and again had excellent results. This time, I lathered up with Col. Conk's Bay Rum - have to say I really like this soap; it made huge lather compared to the MJ's tallow based I had been using - but otherwise followed the same pre-shave procedure and post-shave procedure as before.
With the actual shave, rather than lathering up my entire face and taking twenty-minutes to complete the pass, I broke my face into four regions (left-cheek, right-cheek, left side of neck, right side of neck), applying creme and completing the pass in each region before moving onto the next. I also only performed two passes (WTG and ATG), then touched up anything that was still overly fuzzy/stubbley. Overall, I would rate this shave as Damn Fine, with a couple of patches of BBS along the cheeks and jawline. There was some irritiation, but less than I normally get with a cart system. Also, experienced my first cut - very minor and not very deep, fortunately - but the alum sure let me know it was there!
Overall time: 40 minutes (faster yet!)

Extra lather; after shaving myself and lathering up my toddler to 'shave' with a plastic butterknife (he really wants to be like dad). This Col. Conk stuff loads up so nicely; need to remember not to use so much.


Post-shave (alum applied)
 
Nice going!

Celestino: where did you get the .1u film? How do you like it?

I know I'm not Celestino, but Lee Valley (Canadian page after jump) happily provided me with a kit containing 15, 3, 0.5 and 0.1 films for around $25CAD (taxes in). Individual sheets were around $7CAD. I can't attest to it's quality, however, as I haven't attempted to hone anything on it (figure I'll learn to shave before I learn to hone and all). Link to the U.S. page.
 
followed the same pre-shave procedure and post-shave procedure as before.




~~~I noticed you previously mentioned you were going to try adding Proraso's pre shave cream in on each re-lather. When you actually do it, I think you're gonna like it

I'm a huge believer in this product, using it religiously before the first lather and using both under a hot towel, then that's it for the pre shave, then a few weeks ago I doubled up on the pre shave cream, then again a week later. I can easily detect more slip (more like hi-grade teflon protection) going on doubling up with it

Don't think I'll be doing it regularly...my daily prep is hard to beat and gives me all the slick/glide I need, but havin a little extra was a nice feeling, and attests to the veracity of this product


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
 
Jake, last night I applied the pre-shave cream between each pass, and I have to say this might just be the best shave I've *ever* given myself, never mind straights. Other than the ridiculous cowlicks on either side of my Adam's Apple, I have baby-bottom smooth irritation free skin (and even those cowlicks only offer the slightest hint of stubble)!
I think I also had something of a breakthrough with my lather last night, although I was getting excellent cushion before, I wasn't using enough water (the lather would pile up on the blade and have to be wiped off). Last night, I decided to add more water to my bowl than in past - and was rewarded with a huge amount of ultra-slick, super fluffy wonderfullness (yeah, my alliteration needs work...).

Out of curiosity, how often do you guys feel the need to touch up on a pasted strop? Is it just a feel thing (ie when it starts to suggest pulling, hit the paste)?
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
I hit the pasted balsa after every shave. If you wait until you notice it is dull, you will have shaved with a dull razor. I prefer to never let it get dul in the first place.

I don't paste a hanging strop. Only a bench or paddle strop. I feel that abrasives should only be used on a flat surface.
 
Jake, last night I applied the pre-shave cream between each pass, and I have to say this might just be the best shave I've *ever* given myself, never mind straights. Other than the ridiculous cowlicks on either side of my Adam's Apple, I have baby-bottom smooth irritation free skin (and even those cowlicks only offer the slightest hint of stubble)!




~~~FWIW, I've used both the old and new formula Proraso pre shave cream...IMHO the new formula seems to be slicker. It still tones equally as well the way I've been using it (compared to the old formula, for pre shaivng but the new formula, if I may say so, seems to throw down a sheet of teflon on your skin, in a non burdensome way




I think I also had something of a breakthrough with my lather last night, although I was getting excellent cushion before, I wasn't using enough water (the lather would pile up on the blade and have to be wiped off). Last night, I decided to add more water to my bowl than in past - and was rewarded with a huge amount of ultra-slick, super fluffy wonderfullness (yeah, my alliteration needs work...).



~~~this- http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...with-Italian-soft-soaps?p=2981170#post2981170 is the best tutorial when using soft soaps IMO...I can lather soft soaps with less water in the brush but I like the way the brush loads itself when it (boar) is full of water. others may have better and different ideas

and this link's http://www.shaving101.com/index.php...do-you-get-a-good-lather-on-shaving-soap.html technique is how I prefer to load hard soaps

And I can totally identify with what you are saying about getting the water ratio right...do it right, it's pure Nirvana

the only thing I do different from you...99% of the lathers I make and use are face lathers, using soap




Out of curiosity, how often do you guys feel the need to touch up on a pasted strop? Is it just a feel thing (ie when it starts to suggest pulling, hit the paste)?




~~~most of the edges I shave with are natural stone edges and I use the stones for touch up work, blade maint. if you will, but the other night I got out my loom strop, this one-
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and <gasp>, I touched up a razor I honed using coticules. I did about 10 exceedingly light laps on the Cr0x side of this pasted strop, then flipped the strop over
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and stropped about 30 laps on plain leather (I wiped the blade well after the pasted side)

Next day when I shaved with the razor in question (neither of the two razors in these pics), I stropped more on a hanging leather strop then shaved. The Cr0x didn't influence the edge since the edge was not any where near dull when I touched it up. Up to that point it was still shaving rather fine. I just thought touching it up liughtly before it needed it was the way to go, and I got a case of the lazys and used this pasted strop. Normallhy I would do a few dozen laps on a coticule with water only as a lube, no slurry, but I do use the 'Power Touch Up' as discussed in the last few paragraphs of this tutorial http://www.coticule.be/edge-maintenance.html when called for, such as a lapse in maint. protocal

IMO a coticule honed razor loses some of it's regalness if Cr0x is used (too heavily) to touch it up. if you go *very* lightly with the Cr0x, not so much, but you have to have a very light hand, otherwise the Cr0x will influence the edge, it will sharpen it to the point of losing the butteryness coticules are famed for. you'd have to hone using coti and use the aforementioned touch up alternativies to fully appreciate

If someone wants to hone using coticule then finish on Cr0x afterwards, it's their razor, they can do what they want with it yet the Cr0x tends to negate what the coticule affords (smoothness). Sufficient use of Cr0x after coti will sharpen the edge making it sharper at the cost of smoothness... sacriledge if you will=:)



Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
 
Wow; thats some awesome information Jake! I have to admit that I am still a little leary of purchasing into a whole whack of hones. I picked up some lapping film to try touching up the edge when it needs it - but there is so much information available in regards to both shaving, and hones and honing, that I figured I should learn to shave before I learn to hone.
That said, do you think I would be well served to start looking at coticules at this stage in the game? It's safe to say that I'm sold on straights, I don't forsee going back to carts any time soon.
 
Wow; thats some awesome information Jake! I have to admit that I am still a little leary of purchasing into a whole whack of hones. I picked up some lapping film to try touching up the edge when it needs it - but there is so much information available in regards to both shaving, and hones and honing, that I figured I should learn to shave before I learn to hone.
That said, do you think I would be well served to start looking at coticules at this stage in the game? It's safe to say that I'm sold on straights, I don't forsee going back to carts any time soon.


great to see you've got a natural knack for straights - there is nothing like a good shave with a well honed/stropped straight razor :)

you may want to try some different edges before investing in stones of your own... it IS rather overwhelming, but honing is the most zen-like and satisfying aspect of shaving with a straight for me now (saying that as a long time straight shaver - 15+ years - but someone who's only a few months into honing.

I've shaved on film honed razors, and they are as sharp and keen as possible (my first shave with one surprised me as I was used to barber hone edges -and was frankly a bit TOO sharp for my technique, I butchered my neck pretty good). they are an economical place to start, and give very sharp edges for beginner and advanced honers alike...but I much prefer the smoothness of cotis and Jnats.

I now only use coticles and japanese natural stones (which I am just enamored by - a very deep rabbit hole once you start the journey)

my vote is to go for a coticle. each stone is different and has it's own personality - but I suspect you will pick it up pretty quickly. Another upside about getting a coticle early on, is that you can recoup most of your losses on BST if you find it's not for you.

most of all, keep having fun!!
 
Wow; thats some awesome information Jake!


~~~glad to hear you found what I wrote to be informational. sometimes when I write I offer opinions and I hope those that read the opinions see them as just that, opinions and not absoloute. I also like to share my view on topics, seen through the prism I view things, concerning shaving in the B&B forums. That said, I hope you don't mind that I have broken your reply into a series of sentences responding to each so I can better pinpoint what I want to convey


I have to admit that I am still a little leary of purchasing into a whole whack of hones.


~~~that's why I chose to learn how to hone straight razors using Belgian coticules. it's true, you can hone a dull razor from start to a finished edge, a very friendly/enjoyable edge, all on one stone, so that it is unecessary to purchase in your words, "a whole whack of hones"

Having said that, off the top of my head, I own and use 6 different coticules, 3 of which are the same vein (les latnueses), &, an la petit blanc, la verte, and a la vienette...a whole whack of Belgian hones=:), plus a few others...a j-nat, thurringian, a cretan, a few 1 K syn hones, a slice of BBW, some sheets of lapping and I think that's it

a lot of us (straight razor users) that take on keeping our edges up, not only become enthralled with the variety of natural stones available for use but we also succomb to the effects of AD's, so you have good reason to be leary. quite a few of my brethern are able to sell off instead of collect. I haven't reached that point yet, I'm stil collecting



I picked up some lapping film to try touching up the edge when it needs it - but there is so much information available in regards to both shaving, and hones and honing, that I figured I should learn to shave before I learn to hone.




~~~this topic has been argued from both sides often. I never bought into the camp that said it's best to learn how to shave before learning how to hone so naturally when I decided to buy my first straight razor, i bought my first hone, a coticule

the argument for not taking on learning how to hone while learning how to shave goes something like this..."it's too much for you to grasp, learning to shave and hone simultaneously" So I ask, since I took on both together, would I have learnt how to shave faster/better if I did not spend time sharpening my blades (all at the same time) while learning to hone? the short answer is, who cares? I'm a firm believer in the creed "do what you like"

let's look at it from another angle, shaving & sharpening (honing) for the n00b, done together. sure, the n00b doesn't know how to shve with a straight razor, nor does he know how to keep the blade sharp, other than what he picks up from a forum or watching a video, or figuring it out on his own. so it's all new ground. your razor or razors are going to become dull from you not knowing how to wield it. why send it out for someone else to take care of?

a good reason to send it out is because you do not know how to sharpen it, but you also do not know how to shave with either, or am I missing something? so with that reasoning, the n00b shouldn't bother with either, should he?
...preposterous





That said, do you think I would be well served to start looking at coticules at this stage in the game?





~~~~if I was an enabler I'd say "yes, buy a coticule" ...do what you like:lol:


from a practical standpoint, if you have the correct grits of lapping film (1u is enough if you stay on top of things), you have all you need to keep your blades sharp, along with a pasted strop to finish the edge, but I think you have yourself talked into acquiring aat least your first coticule already :yesnod:


simply put, if all you want to do is to keep your edges maintained (sharp/shave ready), a strip of 1u film and a Cr0x pasted strop will keep you going for a long time. Indefinitely, so long as you re3place the strip when it wears out and same with the pasted strop. to my way of thinking...I think you should be applauded if you have the tenacity to stick with film and a pasted strop only. i don't ahve that type of discipline

i'm getting a little off topic here but IMO, if a n00b wanted only to keep his straight razors sharp and shaving well, and do it all on as little as possible, not much could be more frugal and work better than a maintaining a blade using a strip of 1u film abnd a Cr0x pasted strop (balsa being preferred)

I mentioned cotis offering the smoother edge over synthetic honed and maintained razors. but what if you never shaved from a coticule sharpened edge & shaved only from synthetic edges like lapping film? you'd never know what you were missing, & I'm not trying to be facetious saying that. the best you know is the best you shaved from

lapping film edges finished with strop pasted w/Cr0x is a very good edge. some like to add diamond spray w/the cr0x. I tried that more than once and I could never handle the sharpness of the diamonds, but finishing on Cr0x after lapping film, I feel no burn afterwards

to finish my point and try to wrap up this thought. if you want to see what is over the hill, buy a coticule. not that you asked but a good size is 40X150mm 40 mm width is plenty wide to hone on. as to which flavour coticule, I suggest you go to coticule.be and click on the coticule vault http://www.coticule.be/rep1.html familiarize yourself with the various veins listed there. those veins are what is mined nowadays. if you buy a vintage coticule, it's a bit of a crapshoot in that you do not know how the stone will respond w/and w/o slurry, as to speed or lack thereof

coticule.be is a treasure trove of how to coti information. this page-

http://www.coticule.be/straight-razor-honing.html

is the index for the coticule sharpening academy. everything you want/need toknow how to use a coticule is in there. it's the best information on the internet how to use a coticule to sharpen and maintain a straight razor




It's safe to say that I'm sold on straights, I don't forsee going back to carts any time soon.




~~~~I'm stuck in a rut too, shaving using straight razors. truth be told, I can get a better shave with a DE safety razor (SE GEM too). where I get BBS with my straights, I can get BBS +, ++ using a DE/SE safety razor. why? I've only been shaving with straight razors a little more than a year and a half. I don't quite have the technique how to use one to it's fullest down pat in wood yet, which is one of the reasons why I'm so intrigued with them. That said, it's easier for me to shave using a straight razor. I can lie the spine almost flat against my face and get a good shave. to me, working with the blade angles the straight razor affords by virtue of it's open blade is simplicity in itself


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
 
WOW! I barely completed a WTG yesterday for the first time. I have a five year old and four month old, so I laughed hard when I read your post! Great job!! Looks really good!
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Hey Jake it's not because learning to hone and shave at the same time is too much to learn... it is because a newbie might have trouble figuring out whether it is his shave technique or his honing technique that is keeping him from getting good shaves. I, too, recommend learning to shave first. But you are right about one thing... one should do what he likes. Advice is just advice, not laws chiseled in stone. I taught myself to hone and shave at the same time. It was a rough year-and-a-half or so! I didn't know any better and there was no www and certainly no B&B. I basically had zero resources for learning. I had no idea that my hard arkie wasn't the best razor hone I could get, nor how or where to get a better one or a progression. If I had known better I would have got a shave-ready razor and learned to shave first, then another one so I could practice honing on the first one. That's what I mostly recommend, too. But the newbie today does have a lot more going for him, and yes, it is possible to start out honing right from the start. Possible. Not easy, and not certain. I think most members here are all about helping a guy get started quickly and painlessly.
 
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