What's new

First restoration of a massive yard sale find

F185CA69-2C54-422F-829C-FFC25C61CDB9.jpeg just put the least rusty razors in a bath is vapo-rust.

Wish me luck. I figured these won’t take long and I’ll put the more rusted ones in another bath.

When I rinse them off, what next? 0000 steel wool? Or it depends on how they look?
 
Good luck to you sir! I’ve never tried that product before. I’m a sand it if you need too, buff it and polish it afterwards kind of restoration guy. I used to break out the dremel and tear into them, thankfully I’ve learned some finesse.

Best wishes,

Matt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I’d start with high grit wet/dry sand paper used with WD40 or water, 800-1000 would be a good place to start. The higher grit, the better unless you want to throw a ton of time into removing low grit scratches. I usually work my way up to 2500-3000 and then finish polish with Maas, Flitz, or mother’s Mag and aluminum polish. Flitz is awesome on scales where as Maas and Mother’s works well on steel. They are all great!

I always start with the brass brush on the dremel to remove the heavier rust, so I can see how much work I need to do. Then sand where I have to and work my way up a progression to very fine. I’ve upgraded to 6 buffing wheels, so my sanding time is down to nothing, but I always finish with 10 or so minutes of mother’s Mag.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I’d start with high grit wet/dry sand paper used with WD40 or water, 800-1000 would be a good place to start. The higher grit, the better unless you want to throw a ton of time into removing low grit scratches. I usually work my way up to 2500-3000 and then finish polish with Maas, Flitz, or mother’s Mag and aluminum polish. Flitz is awesome on scales where as Maas and Mother’s works well on steel. They are all great!

I always start with the brass brush on the dremel to remove the heavier rust, so I can see how much work I need to do. Then sand where I have to and work my way up a progression to very fine. I’ve upgraded to 6 buffing wheels, so my sanding time is down to nothing, but I always finish with 10 or so minutes of mother’s Mag.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks. Would you use sandpaper in lieu of 0000 steel wool (which I just purchased)

And I don’t have a dremel, so do you suggest polishing with a rag by hand w FlitZ?
 
Thanks. Would you use sandpaper in lieu of 0000 steel wool (which I just purchased)

And I don’t have a dremel, so do you suggest polishing with a rag by hand w FlitZ?
Well, the Steel wool has its place, but it is steel. You won't make too much a change to the look of your razors if you only use Steel wool because it is simply not hard enough to cut through tempered metal. Though, the use of steel wool and WD40 can help remove some light to moderate rust and can get you closer to clean steel, but it will not remove scratches and pits like sanding does. BUT it all depends on what you are looking for in your final outcome. Keep in mind that once you clean up a razor, hone it and shave with it that is not the time to decide you really like it and want to clean it up more. Then you've wasted a bunch of time and effort honing or money sending it off to be honed. This is a YMMV question too, if you want a razor with more character, Less is more.

As far as a Dremel goes, I started out with one and thought it was great until I managed to break several blades and over heated several others due to my inexperience. I'd say had polishing with flitz is the best way to go. That is my stand by! The dremel is only used in my shop when removing heavy rust at the start of my restoration process.
 
Tried VapoRust once on some rough blades and I'll never use it again. I actually gave the rest of the jug away. Turned the blades a darker color which meant they would need even more sanding on the areas that were clean before. Would have been easier/quicker to scrape the surface rust off with a razor (utility) and go from there. Even if VapoRust was strong enough to strip all the rust off, you would still have the pitting left behind that needs sanding.
 
Tried VapoRust once on some rough blades and I'll never use it again. I actually gave the rest of the jug away. Turned the blades a darker color which meant they would need even more sanding on the areas that were clean before. Would have been easier/quicker to scrape the surface rust off with a razor (utility) and go from there. Even if VapoRust was strong enough to strip all the rust off, you would still have the pitting left behind that needs sanding.
I just found that out the hard way.
 
View attachment 987299 just put the least rusty razors in a bath is vapo-rust.

Wish me luck. I figured these won’t take long and I’ll put the more rusted ones in another bath.

When I rinse them off, what next? 0000 steel wool? Or it depends on how they look?
Spit and polish is all i would use. Anything stronger will attack the handles and ruin any etching.
Rust is dead metal. Once removed you are left with an inclusion. If it was a hunk of iron, no problem but these razors are more an instrument than a tool.

A polishing cloth is as much as you could get away with imho. Wire wool is a no.
 
I just found that out the hard way.
Sorry brother! I just saw the thread today.
That vaporust might be good for loosening up rust are some stuff but for razors it creates more problems.
Not sure how it affects celluloid, but I think it stripped some color from the bamboo style scales I left in it, if I remember correctly.
The razors I soaked were already really bad (some were junk) so it wasn't much of a loss.
If I could link the thread I made with pictures I would.
 
Sorry brother! I just saw the thread today.
That vaporust might be good for loosening up rust are some stuff but for razors it creates more problems.
Not sure how it affects celluloid, but I think it stripped some color from the bamboo style scales I left in it, if I remember correctly.
The razors I soaked were already really bad (some were junk) so it wasn't much of a loss.
If I could link the thread I made with pictures I would.
No worries. They aren’t that bad.
 

Saxonbowman

Ambassador
Evapo Rust works great on heavily rusted tools and machine parts. You do have to polish them afterwards and apply a light coat of oil or they will rust again.
 
Aah, it's not one of the acid solutions. That's good to know. Celluloid is always looking for an excuse to go off though.
 
Top