Finish on wood scales

[MilkCrate]

So I bought this Ralf Aust a while back.

When I put hands on it, I found the scales really look like this ...

I am thinking lightly sanding the remaining finish with 0000 steel wool. Then recoating the scales with several coats of Tung Oil. Does that sound like a solid plan? Thanks.

 

[CCR]

I keep a 2gal bucket of pre mixed for odd jobs i do. 1qt. denatured alcohol, 1qt teak oil , 1qt rubb on satin poly. You just have to remember to shake it up every couple weeks or so or the poly will kinda gel on ya.

 

[stone and strop]

So I bought this Ralf Aust a while back.

View attachment 1167296

When I put hands on it, I found the scales really look like this ...

View attachment 1167299View attachment 1167300View attachment 1167301

I am thinking lightly sanding the remaining finish with 0000 steel wool. Then recoating the scales with several coats of Tung Oil. Does that sound like a solid plan? Thanks.

That's unfortunate. It should be much better.
Tung oil is not terribly durable but it should work if you remove all the existing finish.
If its a Poly finish on there now the oil will not stick to it so be sure to sand to bare wood.

 

[McBlade]

Tru Oil creates a harder finish than Tung oil. You can do anything from satin to high gloss. Easy to work with & repair.

I'd also be tempted to sand the surface down to smooth it out a bit more.

 

[ajduplessis]

Beeswax

 

[MilkCrate]

Thanks gents!

 

[Doc226]

Tung oil stinks to high heaven.


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[Dovo1695]

I'd also be tempted to sand the surface down to smooth it out a bit more.

That's just the way walnut is sometimes. The only way to truly smooth it is with a grain filler. One alternative tecnichque that I've had good luck with is wet sanding it with danish oil. The sawdust gets bound up in the oil and fills those coarse grained area. Ymmv.

That said, I've got a lot to learn about wood and woodworking! I could be wrong. Just my 2 cents.

 

[MilkCrate]

So would it be better to just layer with poly until it smooths out the grain?

 

[MilkCrate]

Tung oil stinks to high heaven.


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Thanks for the heads up. What would you recommend?

 

[trentr]

I have no experience with razor scales, but have built a fair amount of furniture. I was taught to use paste wood filler on porous woods. Not a putty like knot hole filler but a creamy paste. In my experience it is much easier to achieve a glass like smooth finish using wood grain filler than top coat, sand, top coat sand, ........

Here is a short bit of reading with some options 3 Tricks for a Beautiful Walnut Wood Finish – Woodworkers Source Blog - https://www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/woodworking-101/tips-tricks/heres-a-secret-to-a-better-wood-finish-on-walnut/

Actually I think that is basically just repeating what Dovo1695 said.... so what I meant was...."ya what he said" lol

 

[musicman1951]

I would probably sand the finish off and then sand smooth up to 320 grit. Then I would use either Watco Oil or Minwax wipe on poly.

Watco: I'd flood the surface and keep it wet for about 20 minutes. Wipe off any oil left on the surface and let dry for 24 hours. Same on second day, but wet sand with 320-400 grit. Same on the third day, but wet sand with 400-600 grit paper. I probably do 5 coats on something so small that's going to be wet all the time. Easy to do a refreshing coat 2 years from now.

Wipe on poly: same prep, same flooding of the surface, wait 15 minutes and wipe off. You can wet sand this as well, but it's not totally necessary - but it will fill the grain a bit. On the second day you can do a couple of coats as it dries fairly quickly. These are thin coats because you wipe a good bit off. I'd do 4 coats. You could wax either finish after they are completely dry (I'd wait 2-3 days), but I don't know that I'd bother. If you do, get a hard wax and apply with 0000 steel wool.

It sounds like a lot of fussing, but it goes quickly and is virtually foolproof.

 

[Dovo1695]

Easy to do a refreshing coat 2 years from now.

That's the very thing I love about Watco Danish oils. It's a real pleasure being able to refresh the finish on all the furniture I've built ever couple years. It takes just a few minutes!

 

[Doc226]

Thanks for the heads up. What would you recommend?

Personally I love a CA finish, it requires unpinning and 8-10 coats and light sanding. Not the easier but it does leave a beautiful finish allowing the grain to shine through.

 

[Woodscavenger]

Any good resources to teach the CA finish? The link in the sticky section would not work for me.

 

[CCR]

Any good resources to teach the CA finish? The link in the sticky section would not work for me.

How to finish a razor scale with Hot Stuff thin CA glue - https://www.caglue.com/How-to-finish-a-razor-scale-with-Hot-Stuff-thin-CA-glue_ep_84.html

 

[musicman1951]

This is the Minwax finish on a recent music cabinet. It has a coat of wax over the wipe-on finish.

 

[Doc226]

How to finish a razor scale with Hot Stuff thin CA glue - https://www.caglue.com/How-to-finish-a-razor-scale-with-Hot-Stuff-thin-CA-glue_ep_84.html

The basics here are right on.

I would actually glue the edge in place and do a CA on both scales and the wedge at the same time.

If you do the scales separately when you put them together it will be hard to get a nice fit on the wedge

 

[stone and strop]

The basics here are right on.

I would actually glue the edge in place and do a CA on both scales and the wedge at the same time.

If you do the scales separately when you put them together it will be hard to get a nice fit on the wedge

What becomes of where you glue it? Do you have to apply just there after the fact?
I wondered about the insides and if they were done afterwards in the same way.

 

[Doc226]

What becomes of where you glue it? Do you have to apply just there after the fact?
I wondered about the insides and if they were done afterwards in the same way.

I glue the scales and wedge before and then coat everything