What's new

Filarmonica for parts? I don't think so.

I told myself I would never get a Filarmonica. They’re way too expensive and I already have a lineup I like. Then along comes this gem for a price I couldn’t refuse, but chipped, cracked, and deemed “for parts”.

F36F5BEC-2F0C-404A-970D-01983F8A1C45.jpeg

D215B9E1-3472-4E54-945F-9D6793E885FB.jpeg

D68F0016-802C-4122-9BE5-02E92A84C3A6.jpeg

11C70346-1731-4D11-9ED2-C4959EEE88C1.jpeg
 
I honed passed the small crack that was under the “b” in the sub cero etch, lifting the spine way above the DMT, but not quite breadknifing. Most of the tang area was also flattened with the DMT.

4C5FE7DF-E3A8-4EFB-A990-9793620385C8.jpeg

FAF35E57-D6FA-41E3-960E-F0B7673D6426.jpeg

080AE1D8-F968-4E16-95FD-A81DEB7F0A43.jpeg

EF7129AE-CD24-4EAC-B8B5-0A7EBD46CC60.jpeg


The huge crack at the toe was to be addressed with a diamond file and lots of time. I now have a little nugget of filly steel.

735FE0C4-36D2-47A3-BC0B-FA1B5B74936C.jpeg

99762227-2C9D-42FC-ACB9-6E1D25ADB6CD.jpeg
 
The toe was given a round point, which is the style of point that would keep the most steel while not leaving the edge with an ugly swoop at the toe. The frontside was carefully polished with flitz polish around the gold wash, and the backside got the DMT method followed by sandpaper to 2500/flitz. The gold wash made the blade look downright dirty, so the last photo shows the difference between gold wash/no gold wash and why I chose to get rid of it.

049E2102-980A-4FF6-A9D5-79B7A03D4C26.jpeg

44FFCFFD-12E7-485E-8064-4CB2CE2A7DE2.jpeg
 
Here it is all polished up, and back in the original scales. These are certainly temporary, as they look hideous. I had to take down the spine thickness to keep the bevel angle usable, but the hone wear on the spine and edge is so miraculously even that I don’t really mind it at all. This blade must have incredible geometry.

Over 13/16” wide the whole way down, edge length just about 2 3/4”
It’s not even a shorty!

A7A1F616-CEE6-471C-B15E-FE94324875E3.jpeg

3B2ED35E-D64C-41D0-A2E0-E303086424A9.jpeg
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Nice rescue. And TBH I would stick with the original scales even though they are a bit battered. Looks very classy. Very good idea to take the spine down a bit. Do you know what your final bevel angle is?
 
Thanks guys, I can now officially check a Spanish straight off my list.

Slash, I don't have a precise measuring tool, but using a tape measurer and being as precise as I can it seems to be around 19 degrees. Not sure what sub ceros start off with.

She’s all honed up - DMT, 1x4 1000 grit, coti w/ slurry, LPB coti w/ water, Nakayama w/ light coti slurry, Nakayama w/ water, chrox balsa.

237978E3-0EF7-4D5F-97F9-46551D2EA2B2.jpeg
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Just eyeballin that pic it looks about 17.5 or 18 degrees. Anyway, 19deg will shave, if that's what you got.
 
Great work on fixing that blade up!

If the shave test tells you that keenness needs a bump, maybe try jnat -> CBN or jnat -> diamond (or even jnat-> nothing, given my lack of luck with crox).
 
Thanks fellas. Just did a full shave, it was ok. The edge was pure, bevel fully set, mostly BBS, but it didn't feel quite as effortless as my other razors. I could tell it was the same type of edge as my other razors which shave excellently, but it just felt a little chubby. I might want to decrease the bevel angle a little more. 1/4 - 1/2 mm per side should do it.
 
Top Bottom