Figured Walnut scales - for my old Genco

[dpetrzelka]

Just rubbed a little linseed oil on a piece of figured walnut I plan to use for new scales on this old Genco.
Its a great little flawed sight unseen that I got from Larry at Whipped Dog - I've only shaved with it a few times so far, but know I'm hooked. So its worth dressing it up a bit - its current scales are warped and a little chipped.

I'll try to post pictures of the process.

 

[Alum of Potash]

Looks great. Love the medium format full-frame effect as well.

 

[Puerco]

That's a very beautiful piece of wood, boiled linseed oil always brings up the beauty of almost any wood like nothing else. French polishing with shellac brings it up even more (after the linseed is dry). After the French polishing you can use a more durable finish if you want (shellac is the perfect sealer, almost anything will adhere to it) or leave it as is and just wax it.

 

[dpetrzelka]

Have any of you used Tru-oil as a razor scale finish?

 

[Puerco]

I haven't but people get very good result with that, also very popular for custom shaving brushes and in guitar building as it is relatively easy to apply, gives a nice finish and is a relatively durable finish. It's used a lot on gun stock and they hold up fine through rain and abuse so for razor scales it should hold up fine.

 

[Alum of Potash]

With knives, I use walnut oil. Walnut oil on walnut scales has its appeal IMO. Starting from, say, 4 initial applications, it demands repeated coats from time to time beyond this.

 

[Haiku]

Tung oil. Used for thousands of years. Won't change the colour other than to darken somewhat. Once wood is properly coated, it's completely waterproof.

Get pure tung oil that has been partly polymerized. Dilute with turpentine or other spirits 50/50. Four coats. Wipe on. Wipe off. Two or three days drying time between coats.

Oil will soak into the wood, by four coats you will start to build up oil on the surface. Satin finish.

Lee Valley has one that's already diluted with mineral spirits. Free shipping for the next few days.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=20050&cat=1,190,42942

 

[KindestCutofAll]

Tung oil. Used for thousands of years. Won't change the colour other than to darken somewhat. Once wood is properly coated, it's completely waterproof.

Get pure tung oil that has been partly polymerized. Dilute with turpentine or other spirits 50/50. Four coats. Wipe on. Wipe off. Two or three days drying time between coats.

Oil will soak into the wood, by four coats you will start to build up oil on the surface. Satin finish.

Lee Valley has one that's already diluted with mineral spirits. Free shipping for the next few days.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=20050&cat=1,190,42942

Thanks Haiku, I need to try that.

 

[Haiku]

Thanks Haiku, I need to try that.

You're welcome. I just love the way tung oil works. Easy easy easy to use.

I neglected to mention: tung oil is food safe as well. If you use a natural solvent such as turpentine or one of the citrus solvents, you can use it on wooden spoons, salad bowls, cutting boards and so on.

It doesn't change the beauty of the wood, you'll see the grain right through it.

 

[dpetrzelka]

I pinned the scales this weekend - pretty happy with my first pass at making new scales.

 

[Haiku]

Beautiful. What did yo ultimately decide on to finish the wood?

 

[dpetrzelka]

Haiku - I had boiled linseed in the barn, so for this first set of scales I stuck with that plan. 50/50 boiled linseed /natural turpentine, then a couple coats of 100% boiled linseed, and light touch with 0000 steel wool for a more satin finish. I'm very pleased with how the walnut and brass look with the satin finish.

The next set I make will be done with tung oil as suggested above - it will be interesting to compare the two finishes.

Now I need to find another razor in need of scales ....

 

[Haiku]

You'll find tung oil to work very similarly to boiled linseed oil. Linseed will yellow somewhat over time, tung oil tends to go a bit darker over time. Both are classic finishes. The scales look great.

 

[sugra]

Great job!

 

[dpetrzelka]

Thanks all for the ideas and encouragement - excited to find some more razors to restore - fun work, and great to use once they are scaled and honed.

Just need to earn posting rights to the BST to start my search.

 

[daflorc]

Nice first set of scales, love the wood!

for your next set of scales, I'd try making them thinner. You can get them twice as thin as the ones pictured - It'd be more aesthetic and help the balance of the razor. Also, try rounding out the edges more with sandpaper, and finish sand up to like 800 or 1,000 or even 1,500 grit. It'll really get the wood to pop.

PS - on thin scales, its in your best interest to use a strengthening finish, like CA, poly, or epoxy.

 

[dpetrzelka]

daflorc - all great points thank you.

Will 1000 or 1500 grit really make an impact on natural wood? From guitar and banjo refinishing I've often thought of those higher grits as useful when rubbing out marks in a synthetic finish. For wood I've often gone to 400/600 and then polished the wood with 000/0000 steel wool before oiling. (I opted not to do any grain filling on this particular set of walnut scales)

Also on any next scales with a brass spacer I'll drill out a little of the brass to reduce the added weight at that end.

 

[daflorc]

Will 1000 or 1500 grit really make an impact on natural wood? From guitar and banjo refinishing I've often thought of those higher grits as useful when rubbing out marks in a synthetic finish. For wood I've often gone to 400/600 and then polished the wood with 000/0000 steel wool before oiling. (I opted not to do any grain filling on this particular set of walnut scales)
Also on any next scales with a brass spacer I'll drill out a little of the brass to reduce the added weight at that end.

I'd say that if you're using a rubbing finish like tung oil, it will make a difference. for an epoxy, CA, or poly finish, don't go above 320 grit.

 

[Gamma]

Very well done - congrats!