What is the difference between Yellow Feathers and Black Feathers?
feathers
- Thread starter cnichol3
- Start date
Color
No, the yellow pack is 10 blades, and the black one is 5 blades.
What's the difference between the old and the new Apple Computer logo?
It's just marketing and package design from Feather. The blades shave the same, should be the same.
It's just marketing and package design from Feather. The blades shave the same, should be the same.
They still produce overpriced and overrated products? YUP!
I have Feather blades in red/black packaging, with tucks that have 5 blades (with the blade count written on the sleeve). I have never seen red/black packaging that has tucks with 10 blades.
I have yellow packaging with tucks that have 10 blades inside (with the number of blades written only on the sleeve):
I have seen pictures of sleeves with tucks that have 5 blades inside, like this one:
I noticed that there is no blade count information on the Feather tucks. I cannot remember if I ever saw packaging from any other manufacturer that does not have the blade count somewhere on the tuck.
I have and used so far Feather blades from Yellow10 and Black5, and cannot tell them apart. It is my understanding that Feather packaging varies with the market they were intended for.
Hope this helps.
Can we make our own thread about how our faces light up when we open the mail box and get that yellow rectangle in our hands? That's the first thing that comes to my mind when you guys post photos of the Feather packs.
???
They cost about the same as Gillette and Super Iridium products. And they really are sharper than anything else I've used.
Do you mean Apple or Feather?
- Thread starter
- #11
Apple by far has the best products if you compare to other manufacturers. So I think Feather makes a pretty good product..
I mean Apple, and How are apple products the best? IMHO you can get products that use the same parts/hardware(or similar) to that which apple uses for about 2/3 the cost
Prime example of this is the Ipad mini Vs. the Asus Nexus 7, very comparable in specs but price they are about $100 apart... doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me
But this thread is about Feather blades, and yes they are fairly pricey, but in perspective they are still a heck of a lot cheaper than cartridge blades, and do a better job
About the apple thing. Is not only apple, is also every other company that are serious enough to not sell "logically bad sector marked hdd/flashes", and accept back "monitors that have backlight bleeding", and so on. Pretty much everything that a person would find as defect, those serious companies accept what the customer decides. The rest of the companies, that just refuse to replace/refund a panel with a HORRIBLE backlight bleeding, are just ... don't want to hear about them ever..again.. in my ..entire life.
And now to the subject, Feather seems awesome for WTG and XTG, but I can't shave with them ATG. There are specific spots on my neck, and on the cheek, where I can't shave at all, no matter what angle i use. I don't know what happens, but I simply can't get a proper angle to shave that part. And guess what, I used Astra SP blades to finish the job, I can't believe that I actually like them.
I find Feather sharper then Astra, but there is something about the angle of the sharpened edge, that forces me to either loose a part of my skin or it won't cut the hair on those parts at all.
And now to the subject, Feather seems awesome for WTG and XTG, but I can't shave with them ATG. There are specific spots on my neck, and on the cheek, where I can't shave at all, no matter what angle i use. I don't know what happens, but I simply can't get a proper angle to shave that part. And guess what, I used Astra SP blades to finish the job, I can't believe that I actually like them.
I find Feather sharper then Astra, but there is something about the angle of the sharpened edge, that forces me to either loose a part of my skin or it won't cut the hair on those parts at all.
@Cerbul13
Assuming your tecnique is good try a different razor. These days I shave with my Ikon OSS ATG with a 45º gillete slide, and it's perfectly safe. With the Ikon SB base plate or R41 I don't have the balls to even do a gillette slide WTG. Your words make me believe your razor might have to much blade exposure for you. Another tip: if you don't want to spend money on a pre-shave oil or specialty pre-shave glycerin soaps, use a normal body glycerin soap. Moist your face with warm water, soap your face, and prepare your gear and take your time, wash the soapy face, apply lather, shave. The glycerin of the soap is absorbed by the whiskers, and will ease your shave little bit more. Specialty pre-shave soaps usually contain a bit of oil, the oily skin has less chance of being grabbed by the blade, and the oil is also absorbed by the whiskers. 2 days ago I ordered Musgo Real pre-shave soap and pre-shave oil (this one is a gel, water-soluble?) to verify my beliefs. Later I'll post my review in the soaps sub-forum.
From what I could find, pre-shave oil has more success with the straight razor folks than DE.
About apple, I miss my Mac Cube from 12 years ago, it was a robbery at my pocket.
Assuming your tecnique is good try a different razor. These days I shave with my Ikon OSS ATG with a 45º gillete slide, and it's perfectly safe. With the Ikon SB base plate or R41 I don't have the balls to even do a gillette slide WTG. Your words make me believe your razor might have to much blade exposure for you. Another tip: if you don't want to spend money on a pre-shave oil or specialty pre-shave glycerin soaps, use a normal body glycerin soap. Moist your face with warm water, soap your face, and prepare your gear and take your time, wash the soapy face, apply lather, shave. The glycerin of the soap is absorbed by the whiskers, and will ease your shave little bit more. Specialty pre-shave soaps usually contain a bit of oil, the oily skin has less chance of being grabbed by the blade, and the oil is also absorbed by the whiskers. 2 days ago I ordered Musgo Real pre-shave soap and pre-shave oil (this one is a gel, water-soluble?) to verify my beliefs. Later I'll post my review in the soaps sub-forum.
From what I could find, pre-shave oil has more success with the straight razor folks than DE.
About apple, I miss my Mac Cube from 12 years ago, it was a robbery at my pocket.
Cerbule,
I too find Feather sharper than Astra. The last part of your statement makes me believe it is not about the angle of the blade but the technique.
Back to the original topic of this thread, I believe there is no difference between "yellow" and "black" Feather blades.
I am sure that something is wrong. My razor is Muehle DE89, and to be honest the very next razor that I will buy is a slant, considering that I already tend to shave with the blade in angle, without even thinking about it since it feels so much more easy for my face.
There are 2 small spots at the base of my neck, to the left and right of the Adam's apple, and one somewhere under my left side jaw line, where the neck becomes visible. This last spot, I tried to approach in every way possible with a feather, tried all directions and all razor angles. If I do manage to find an angle/direction to cut it without pulling my face off, is just far from BBS.
There are 2 small spots at the base of my neck, to the left and right of the Adam's apple, and one somewhere under my left side jaw line, where the neck becomes visible. This last spot, I tried to approach in every way possible with a feather, tried all directions and all razor angles. If I do manage to find an angle/direction to cut it without pulling my face off, is just far from BBS.
To straighten the sides of my adams apple I must twist a little of my head to the side. Try to stretch and stiffen your skin with your fingers. That zone of the neck is where I go the most slower in my shave. My skin seems to be thick because I hardly bleed, my problem is not cutting or nicking, what hurts me is the tugging. It creates an inflammation of stubble's base.
You got me there with your razor... The merkur slant has more blade exposure. I think that if you hate Feathers in the R89, you will hate near sharp as Feather blades in the merkur slant.
I tried once the slant. It twists the blade stiffening it. You can get a slant angle with a mild razor like yours. You know what a gillette slide is? Practice doing WTG with a razor head twisted. Later try XTG and ATG. The more milder a razor, the more slanted angle you can do safely.
You got me there with your razor... The merkur slant has more blade exposure. I think that if you hate Feathers in the R89, you will hate near sharp as Feather blades in the merkur slant.I tried once the slant. It twists the blade stiffening it. You can get a slant angle with a mild razor like yours. You know what a gillette slide is? Practice doing WTG with a razor head twisted. Later try XTG and ATG. The more milder a razor, the more slanted angle you can do safely.
Exactly the same feeling, not really cutting myself, but is tugging really bad. Those 2 places are like 3 cm to the left and right, and like 2 cm higher then the adams apple. Is the kind of spot where I can't cut it correctly when I do ATG, and obviously, from that moment on, I can't cut more of it, as the skin is really irritated on that spot, not letting me shave ATG again, unless I pay the price with a skin layer.
Hey buddy take a look here
Look at photo number 6 near the end. For me anything greater than that angle makes my skin burn, in reality it's not the skin, it's the base of the stubble complaining I can use the same blade in my Merkur 34G and in my Ikon OSS. The Ikon will tug less because of the blade angle, but the penalty is less usable degrees at which the blade touch the face.
Hope this helps.
Look at photo number 6 near the end. For me anything greater than that angle makes my skin burn, in reality it's not the skin, it's the base of the stubble complaining I can use the same blade in my Merkur 34G and in my Ikon OSS. The Ikon will tug less because of the blade angle, but the penalty is less usable degrees at which the blade touch the face.
Hope this helps.
Below picture 6 is a text describing the difference between picture 5 and 6:
"The blade angle here is much shallower than in photo 5"
What I understand from here is that they take the angle between the blade itself and the skin. This means that the lowest angle is in picture 8, while the biggest angle is in picture 1.
So you are saying that you can't use an angle closer to picture 5, or it will cause razor burn, right?
In my situation, I will use the picture 5 angle for WTG+XTG passes, while using something closer to picture 6 for ATG pass. Unfortunately, I can't manage to cut anything in those spots unless I get to an angle closer to picture 7.
Curiously enough, the longer I use DE razors, and the more dead skin gets taken off each shave, the easier is to shave with an angle closer to picture 5.
"The blade angle here is much shallower than in photo 5"
What I understand from here is that they take the angle between the blade itself and the skin. This means that the lowest angle is in picture 8, while the biggest angle is in picture 1.
So you are saying that you can't use an angle closer to picture 5, or it will cause razor burn, right?
In my situation, I will use the picture 5 angle for WTG+XTG passes, while using something closer to picture 6 for ATG pass. Unfortunately, I can't manage to cut anything in those spots unless I get to an angle closer to picture 7.
Curiously enough, the longer I use DE razors, and the more dead skin gets taken off each shave, the easier is to shave with an angle closer to picture 5.
