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Feather AC SS, how to get a closer shave?

Eben Stone

Staff member
SR shave #39 using Feather AC SS, Feather pro super #4.

Pressed the holder flat onto my face with a little pressure and tilted just enough for the blade to catch, but no more. During all my prior shaves I was tilting the razor a lot more.

I can definately hear the whiskers screaming as I shave. Seems like I am using the correct angle (based on audible feedback). The only problem is I can go over the same area 10 times and it's still just as noisy.

4 passes, lots of skin stretching.

Not close enough.

Next shave I'll try a new blade...
 
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There is definately something weird about the holder that I still haven't quite figured out. On my 3rd pass, if I press the holder flat against my skin with some pressure, slight tilt, and try to maintain that same pressure during my stroke, it feels different and it seems to be magnitudes more efficient. I'm not sure if that (apply pressure) is what I'm supposed to be doing for all strokes of all passes, but so far I've only been capable of doing it on the 3rd pass, and only in some areas like my cheeks and under my chin going ATG. If I could do that for my entire shave I think I would have a very close shave.


You've nailed it here IMO.

I've been using one of 3 Feather razors since Feb '19. The AC SS is different to a straight, and does benefit from this technique of subtle but consistent inward pressure. It's a difficult one to convey accurately, as there's an important difference between this kind of pressing inward, and the pressure you make when pressing forward that will certainly result in cuts - hope that makes sense. The AC SS is designed to utilise this: light pressure on the side of the razor engages the skin with the lip, cleanly presenting the base of the hair to the blade's edge. I go ATG and get BBS every shave - not bragging; I pretty much have to because as a head shaver who can't use a mirror, feel is the only way I can tell if it's done.

The only place I don't use this technique is on the top of my scalp, where I only go WTG and use light pressure with a steeper angle. This is due to the lack of subcutaneous fat in this area - the pressure is of far less benefit and I don't need a super-close shave here anyway as the hair's pretty thin regardless...
 

Eben Stone

Staff member
So today for SR shave #41 with my ACSS and Feather Pro Super #2 I decided to go first pass (mostly) ATG (mostly as in somewhere between XTG and ATG).

It was less challenging that I expected. I went for 3 passes like I do with DE: ATG, ATG, WTG.

Not sure what I was expecting, but the results are just OK. It definately felt like it was doing more work, but at the end of the shave, it was about the same closeness as yesterday's shave (which was WTG, XTG, ATG).

I don't know why I'm so obsessed with first pass ATG, but I think this will be my normal routine from now on, unless I discover something else that gives me a closer shave.
 
So today for SR shave #41 with my ACSS and Feather Pro Super #2 I decided to go first pass (mostly) ATG (mostly as in somewhere between XTG and ATG).

It was less challenging that I expected. I went for 3 passes like I do with DE: ATG, ATG, WTG.

Not sure what I was expecting, but the results are just OK. It definately felt like it was doing more work, but at the end of the shave, it was about the same closeness as yesterday's shave (which was WTG, XTG, ATG).

I don't know why I'm so obsessed with first pass ATG, but I think this will be my normal routine from now on, unless I discover something else that gives me a closer shave.
As they say - whatever works for you...

That said, sometimes IMHO, one is better off accepting that no matter how hard we want (to like) something, it just isn't the right choice. I admire you dedication to AC SS, but it seems to me it's a tough love... as it just doesn't yields the results your looking for.

I had a fair share of solid shaves with my AC SS and realized it's not the tool of choice I wanna use every day. I don't enjoy it, I have to be extra careful and there razors that give me smoother, easier, non-nonsense, almost "auto-pilot" shave.

So... it's worth considering an alternative.

TL;DR: get the Vector - problem solved 😎
 

Eben Stone

Staff member
...get the Vector...

If I could decide between machined and polished I would probably own one already.

I couldn't decide with the Dart and I have both. I suppose I could just get both vectors and my fantastic four razors would all be from Blackland.

Not exactly something I can justify spending ATM, especially considering how much I'm enjoying the Dart. I can't believe it wasn't more popular.
 
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If I could decide between machined and polished I would probably own one already.

I couldn't decide with the Dart and I have both. I suppose I could just get both vectors and my fantastic four razors would all be from Blackland.

Not exactly something I can justify spending ATM, especially considering how much I'm enjoying the Dart. I can't believe it wasn't more popular.
I had the same dilemma, talked to Shane and got myself the machined one. Love it.
 

Eben Stone

Staff member
I have tried hard to love AC (Feather Pro) and SS clone. And failed miserably. DE -shavette gives always better shave (feel and quality) and same or longer longevity (12-23 shaved against 3-15 of AC). Maybe you are like me...

This is something I just don't understand. The Feather pro blades last me about 21 shaves using the RazoHawk AC safety razor. The Feather pro super seem to be lasting me only 2-4 shaves using the Feather AC SS. Todays shave using a Feather pro super (3) was a little tuggy. I thought they were supposed to be sharper than DE blades.
 
This is something I just don't understand. The Feather pro blades last me about 21 shaves using the RazoHawk AC safety razor. The Feather pro super seem to be lasting me only 2-4 shaves using the Feather AC SS. Todays shave using a Feather pro super (3) was a little tuggy. I thought they were supposed to be sharper than DE blades.
Barbers using shavettes only use their blades once. -Could be for hygienic reasons as well as sharpness?
 
This is something I just don't understand. The Feather pro blades last me about 21 shaves using the RazoHawk AC safety razor. The Feather pro super seem to be lasting me only 2-4 shaves using the Feather AC SS. Todays shave using a Feather pro super (3) was a little tuggy. I thought they were supposed to be sharper than DE blades.
AFAIK, Pro Supers have different bevel (angle) due to their significantly greater thickness. That's why they "feel" very different to regular Pros. My preferred one with Hawk V3 is the SoftGuard Pro.
 
This is something I just don't understand. The Feather pro blades last me about 21 shaves using the RazoHawk AC safety razor. The Feather pro super seem to be lasting me only 2-4 shaves using the Feather AC SS. Todays shave using a Feather pro super (3) was a little tuggy. I thought they were supposed to be sharper than DE blades.

Could be angle and / or pressure.

I find the AC SS definitely has this different technique to a straight, and if angle is high, pressure excessive or you find yourself doing a lot of buffing strokes, the blades don't last as well. Even so, 2-4 shaves seems very bad. Are you doing anything like palm stropping the blade in the razor?
 
I do a lot of buffing strokes on my chin during my XTG pass. Too many I loose count.

That could be the problem.

For what it's worth you may have more joy with a different more traditional holder. Such as Feather AC SR or (speculating) the likes of Kai Captain or CJB etc. The AC SS is a bit odd and I suppose not everyone gels with it. I recently started using a Feather SR, which has a very slightly hollowed wedge profile, no lip. Using this is much more like using a straight, only somehow more so, if that makes sense - due to the extreme sharpness of the AC blades. A BBS shave with the lightest pressure is doable with the AC SR, whereas I find the SS needs this careful and consistent inward pressure (with a low angle) to use the razor's lip effectively. I imagine other traditional style holders will be similar to this.
 

Eben Stone

Staff member
Have you tried the DX? I'm torn between it and a SR. I already have an SS. I love it, but want to try something where imward pressure isn't necessary

No, I haven't tried the DX. The SR seems to work with or without inward pressure. I can use it like the SS and get better results. Or I can tilt it a little more and no inward pressure and get better results.
 
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