Experimenting with single edged shaving as a noob, and liking it!

[Teppanyaki]

I decided to put this post here, as opposed to the SE forum, because I thought that this was most appropriate for people who have not heard of SE (single edged) razor shaving or who have heard of it but have not tried it (yet!).

Introduction - I am relatively new to wet shaving with DE shaving, having started in April of this year. I can't believe that it's been less than 6 months as it seems like I've been shaving this way for years. I am an "open comb" fan, as that style of DE razor works very well for me - Gillette News especially so. I'm pretty darn happy with that, but the allure of trying something new and different combined with shiny razors had me thinking about buying a nice SE razor.

Pics -


#1 - my Gillette New Long Comb DE razor (left) and 1912 Ever-Ready SE razor (right) with ornate handle. I swear, it was really shiny and pretty before the autoclave! Sorry, Kyle (BnB member I bought it from)! The SE blade is next to it.

#2 - closeup of 1912

#3 - Another view - I love the "ornate" handle, as I believe it is commonly referred to. By the way, the edges are studded somehow so it is both comfortable and very grippy. Excellent handle - I wish I could use a thicker version of that on my DE's!

#4 - front shot

#5 - Razor opened shot. This is a . . . 2 piece razor? Handle unscrews, but the head is spring loaded by means of a metal strip that is curved. If I let go, that top clamps back down firmly. In retrospect, I should have included a closeup of the back. Oh well.

 

[Teppanyaki]

More pics -



#1 - SE razor loaded. There is about 1-2 mm of back and forth play, as well as 1-2 mm sideways play (when opened). Notice that there are 2 tabs to the right and left ends of the rake/open comb part - these determine how far forward the blade is able to go. I assume that if you buy one of these with a broken blade stop (those tabs), you're going to get lacerated so be forewarned. I think.

#2 - Loaded and top closed down, ready to shave. The act of closing the top forces the blade forwards until it is snugly against the stops. The tension also anchors it as best I can tell from sideways movement. Seems secure enough for shaving to me.

#3 - sideways shot to try to demonstrate blade exposure.

#4 - Shot of Gem Blue Star (I think carbon steel blades). It's a darn nifty holder - it holds 10 blades, and by pushing with my thumb on that exposed blade spine (not sharp) towards the clear plastic side on the left, the blade slides out. There's extra space, as you can see in the left clear plastic panel, and when you're done with a blade you can slide it back into the same holder for safety. There is a tiny panel I believe so you won't end up using the used razors again. A nifty way of storing and dispensing new blades and storing old blades for disposal, in my opinion, and more friendly than the DE plastic packs that do the same thing.

#5 - Packaged Gem Personna stainless steel blades. $5 and change for 10 blades. Probably a ton cheaper in bulk. Before I forget, my understanding is that you have 3 main blade types - carbon steel (can rust), stainless (rust resistant), and hardware store versions (avoid unless you hate your face and want to punish it severely for being bad, or don't use). The SE forum has a really nice guide.

Anyway . . .

I saw the above on b/s/t and bought it.

Teaching point #1 - Do not browse b/s/t. You will see stuff. It will be shiny and look cool. You will buy it.

Teaching point #2 - When you buy a new razor, THAT is the time to buy blades for it, if different from what you have. Do not do what I did - get the razor, THEN want to shave with it but realize that you have no blades. Order a pack online. Get annoyed at waiting more than 15 minutes, and call places/drive into pharmacies looking for blades that they don't have. Finally find 2 (!) places this afternoon due to a combination of sheer luck, serendipity, and a guy at a pharmacy with some knowledge of other stores that stock the exact blades that you like and buy them.

I had read that some people love SE razors. By the way, I think SERLover (Single Edged Razor Lover) wins my vote for best acronym. They shave closer/not as close and are friendlier/not as friendly as DE's. They are cheaper. The ornate handle is relatively common, especially compared to the ABC Pocket Razor Empire edition with matching case, or the Gillette New President with the fancy Italian leather case that elmerwood has. 'nuff said.

My prep: Geofatboy's 1912 video last night. I think he's insane for shaving about as fast as I can run from a rabid Siberian tiger, but he is clearly very skilled at this. Apparently you have to hold the razor edge yourself at roughly 20-30 degrees from vertical to create your own angle.

On to the shave-

Shower prep, and Mike's Lime with my Muhle brush. I tried to keep the angle at about 20 degrees. I'd say that that is 1 of the 2 big things about this razor - you need to determine the angle. Practice, I suspect, helps trememdously.

How did the shave go? LOUD. The loudest DE's I have are nothing compared to this. If my R41 made whiskers cry out in terror, they were but muted whispers compared to the deafening wails of my despairing stubble with the 1912. It's the shaving equivalent of someone screaming into your ear.

It's also close. I have read that the blade, being thicker, is good for more shaves and doesn't flex/vibrate nearly as much. It shaves about as closely as my Gillette News, which is as close as I have shaved with . . . well, anything. Very smooth, and relatively forgiving as well.

I did get 2 tiny nicks, 1 under my nose (more on that later) and 1 next to my chin where I regularly irritate the skin. I think minimal pressure is even more the watchword here than with DE's. On the bright side, it glides very smoothly without resistance. No problems going down over the chin or jawline. Kind of fun to use your ear to determine if there is stubble left. Sounds like it's close? OK, move on!

Problem #2 - right under the nose. With my DE's, I can approach from a very aggressive angle to get almost everything. With a SE razor, I had to go sideways. Kind of worked, but I need some practice with that. I can see why some people may use a DE or Injector for that area.

Lastly, I took the blade out of the razor and dried both. To take the blade out is a second - unclamp and it drops out. Plus, for carbon steel, I think that you have to dry them or they rust.

My conclusion - the 1912 is a really nice razor. I consider it an open comb due to the rake thing against my face, even though apparently I am completely wrong in that and that only the Micromatic is truly an open comb. Anyway . . . it shaves well, is relatively forgiving, and looks darn cool. If I can get the angle down and under my nose well, it'll eventually go off for gold plating (I think it's brass given the color change with autoclaving, but I'm not sure. I have some French Lavender Maas in the mail to rectify that and make it nice and shiny again).

My greatest fear? My understanding is that SE shaving is in some ways similar to shaving with a straight. I do not need a straight. More specifically, I do not need yet another razor acquisition disorder that also involves sharpening stones and stropping and scales and so on. Although if I ever do try a straight, I absolutely positively MUST pose dramatically when someone is watching and thinks that I don't know that, hold my razor up to the light at arm's length, and triumphantly cry out, "At last, my arm is complete again!" (Sweeney Todd)

If you enjoy vintage shaving, I definitely recommend trying a SE razor.

Hope this was helpful. Enjoy!

 

[Niles]

I love my 1912. It's a very nice razor.

 

[Teppanyaki]

Update: I'm on shave #3 or 4 with this razor. I really like it. Sadly, it has also fueled my RAD so I have a GEM Junior on the way and I am looking for a cheap Damaskeene in good condition.

It continues to be a relatively friendly (mild) razor, while still being quite effective. At this point I cannot tell a shave difference between it and my Gillette New long comb, except that I nicked under my nose going XTG with the New and not with the 1912.

Shaving under my nose - I really have to mash my nose out of the way to get a WTG pass including most of the northmost hairs, and angling down from the cheek and going diagonally also helps. A bit of XTG to finish off helps.

My biggest change is to try to keep the angle as shallow as possible, which seems to keep me out of nick/irritation trouble.

One thing that I didn't think I would care about but that I love - changing blades is nearly instantaneous compared to a 3-piece. It's also substantially faster than the one TTO I own but haven't really tried yet. You open the hinge and the blade falls out; putting a new one in is literally laying one down. And I also love how the GEM blade dispensers also function as safe blade disposal and holding. Pretty nifty. Amazon.com has 12 10-packs in the same plastic case for $14.79 for roughly . . . 12-13 cents a blade that lasts up to 2 weeks? Nice! It's too bad that the overwhelming amount of money I spend shaving has nothing to do with blade replacement costs and everything to do with razor acquisition disorders and shaving creams/soaps of different types. I suspect that that will slow down eventually. Maybe!

I continue to love the handle. It's just as grippy as I want while maintaining a really cool art deco aesthetic.

I wonder if this is a "gateway razor" to straight shaving. I've read that real straights are significantly more forgiving than shavettes, but the idea of stropping/honing on a rock is intimidating and I don't know that I want to put much, if any, time into prepping a blade. But the idea is percolating in there . . . if shaving with this is what straight shaving would be like, I may end up trying it. Although the idea of a straight worries me much more about nicks (lacerations!) as there isn't a safety guard that limits how much the blade can cut.

I got my hands on some Flitz, so it is much shinier. I didn't realize how much that stuff leaves a film. I still have a few areas on the cap that could use a bit of work, but I'd rather underdo than overdo it.

When I finally figure out which 1912-style one works best for me, it'll be off to the plater. Not sure if I'm going to go for gold or split gold/rosegold.