Ever ready model numbers -- post your numbers here

[Swazilander]

Oh. Here's my $.02.

Just pondering knots... Any suggestions?

I've used a couple knots off ebay from DSCosmetics (china). I bored them out to 24mm and used the flat top synthetic badger on the red and white bobber Ever Ready / for the black and white Ever Ready I used the flat top Tuxedo. I also weight them a little with epoxy and BB's.

 

[mainiac]

Here are my 750 and 1000. Bought them NOS.

 

[REV579]

Very cool additions!

 

[jaro 101969]

i only have one its:
89 - Blue plastic base, white rubberized top.

• Knot Diameter: 20mm
• Knot Loft: 51mm
• Knot Hair: Bristle
• Handle Height: 52mm

 

[siriusrising]

Ever Ready 250 D Clear base. Like new.

 

[KeenDogg]

500E. Trying to figure out how to get the staining out of the hairline crack in it. Wish me luck.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[EricCat]

I have 4 Ever Ready brushes, that probably date back to the first one I bought in 1963 or so. I think it is the 750 which is on the Right. The next 2 are N40s and the last one on the Left is an R40.

The Left N40 is still being used, and is in good shape. It is a little more prickly than my Simpson Col Best Badger, and not quite as dense. The rest of them are so soft that you really can't make a lather with them except by lathering right on the puck. They all have very soft, fine bristles, but I'm not sure how much is from wear and how much from the original construction.

I believe the R40 was the most expensive and highest quality of the bunch, but I have had all but one of them for a lot of years, and have no idea what they cost new. The worn looking N40 (Right Center) was a fairly recent eBay purchase, but it is a little too soft, and besides the knot it loose.

All of them are Labeled Ever Ready, Pure Badger, Made in USA and the two N40s have the number 6 below the label. The R40 has the number 9.

All but the Left Center N40 are candidates for restoration soon. They all have 21.5 mm holes (more or less)

View attachment 708624View attachment 708625
Had an urge to hit a flea market today and added a 200T in green/white. Or at least I think it used to be white.
Got the 750 a while ago but haven't had much time to post it. The collection keeps growing.

Haven't seen a post on this forum for awhile so I though that I would chime in. This brush is an Ever-Ready #750. It was my first shaving brush and given to me by my father when I was 15 years old over 55 years ago. The original knot was totally gone so I replaced it with a 21mm Premium Silvertip Badger from TGN set at 50mm loft. Of all my brushes, this one is still my favorite.
View attachment 954853

Could someone point out the difference between the N40 and (Cream) 750? I have the N40 and it looks identical to all these 750s that are posted. The one post here that does mention the N40 and 750 together no longer has pictures. Is one smaller than the other? Different knots? Different production runs? Without being able to see these side by side I have no ideal how mine differs from all these 750s...

 

[giac]

Here's a Made in England 906 that I posted about several years ago. I never found out anything about it - the handle looks very similar to the one maniac posted in May. I've used it continuously for three years and it's never shed a hair. The lettering is gone now but it's a tremendous brush and I hope it outlives me.

 

[cpool222]

VERY cool brush... never seen one like it!

 

[mainiac]

Here's a Made in England 906 that I posted about several years ago. I never found out anything about it - the handle looks very similar to the one maniac posted in May. I've used it continuously for three years and it's never shed a hair. The lettering is gone now but it's a tremendous brush and I hope it outlives me.View attachment 1034089

Yes, this looks very similar to my 750

 

[shadeone]

Some dating info... It looks like the 100t came out in late 1955, around Christmas time. It was part of a series designed by Walter Dorwin Teague, who was a pretty well known designer and also did the design for the Kodak Brownie camera....
Found this little blurb in a newspaper called "The News Leader" from Staunton, VA. This is from the 20th of December, 1955:

A PDF of a booklet on Walter Dorwin Teague from 1937:

https://www.usmodernist.org/PA/PP-1937-09.pdf

 

[sharktown]

I re-knotted a 200T in finest badger. The original boar knot had a horrid smell that I couldn't get out.

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[Leo501]

Picked up at an antique store, horse hair 200t

 

[SliceOfLife]

Can't find this one in the thread, but a lot of images are dead.

Stamped 3W on the back of the bulb.

I've wanted to reknot one for awhile. Finally gave it a try. Not recommended as a brush to reknot. These are the ultra-cheaply made type of EverReady's where the bottom is wafer thin plastic full of cement. All but impossible to lower the shelf, not much room to expand, and easy to break.

Shame, cause the shape is pretty interesting.

 

[shave/brush]

Here is my Ever-Ready Model 100N. Someone gave it to me. It belonged to her father.
The knot is 18mm, the loft is 50mm. It uses nylon bristles. I never used it and don't intend to.

 

[gearchow]

Can't find this one in the thread, but a lot of images are dead.

Stamped 3W on the back of the bulb.

I've wanted to reknot one for awhile. Finally gave it a try. Not recommended as a brush to reknot. These are the ultra-cheaply made type of EverReady's where the bottom is wafer thin plastic full of cement. All but impossible to lower the shelf, not much room to expand, and easy to break.

Shame, cause the shape is pretty interesting.

I've got one of these - 3W! Probably one of the weirdest handles I have - like it sat in the hot sun and melted. It's mildly disturbing to just look at it

I always tap the bottoms to try and figure out if it's solid or empty/filled. The one I have like yours has a nice hollow sound. Pretty sure these are celluloid (?) filled with plaster. I tried removing a knot from one of those types and the darn thing just disintegrated in my hands. A lot of these old handles aren't re-knottable - too fragile.

-jim

 

[SliceOfLife]

I got the knot out. The issue is these have a metal band in the top. Sometimes you're lucky and you can pull it right out. This one I had to grind away at for awhile before it finally flexed enough I could break it out. But that's not the big problem... The black top is only ~20mm high... so I wanted to drill down a bit into the yellow base to deepen the shelf. As it's cement-filled, this is not easy... but I get a few mm down and start to sand back to open it up, and a piece of the yellow plastic falls off. It's all of maybe 0.2mm thick. Basically a cement handle with plastic film shrunk onto it.

I think I'll be able to salvage it, but it's disappointing that it's not made a little better. I suppose the GOOD part of that design is the cracks in the base are completely irrelevant since the plastic exterior of the base has nothing to do with the structural integrity of the brush.

Edit: I stuck a 24 mm extra dense silver tip not in it at about 50 mm loft, Which is about the minimum I could get without drilling deeper into the concrete within the base which almost certainly would’ve shattered it. It’s curing now we’ll see how it turns out.

 

[SliceOfLife]

The timeline for editing hit as I was uploading the picture in the post above so here it is

 

[gearchow]

Good work on saving it!

That brush is not going to get knocked over on the counter. it's like a sumo wrestler in the squat position.

-jim

 

[SliceOfLife]

Thanks.

Yeah once it cures, I'm gonna take it for a test run and then decide how much cleaning/polishing it needs.