Ever-Ready 150 Restore Questions

[bmilcs]

I have the worst sanding drum. It doesn't stay snug. Came with this $25 dremel from Chicago electric.

 

[bmilcs]

I got frustrated And took a pocket knife to it. I got most of the cork and hairs out. Pics inc soon

 

[bmilcs]

Do I need to remove all of the cork inside? I've used a pocket knife to widdle it so far. My sanding drum is far from effective at this point :\

Or should I just widen it enough and leave the cork in there to put in the new knot?

 

[bmilcs]

Ah my sanding bit is so annoying. How am I doing?

 

[bmilcs]

Do I need to sand off the rest of the brown crud? Is that epoxy? Do I leave the wood or cork in there?

 

[Mike H]

Looks great, what are you going to use to build back the shelf?

 

[Big Jim]

Now is the time to measure the opening and order the knot. With the knot in hand, you can trial fit it and finish removing whatever still needs to be removed. What you still see is remnants of glue. You should remove all or nearly all of it.

 

[bmilcs]

Ok thanks guys.

This is really my first experience with tools. Feels great hah. I'm a computer nerd gone carpenter

 

[FL shaver]

Looking good! Are you sanding out the chips in the top edge? You have a nice shine going othe exterior surface of the handle!

 

[bmilcs]

I actually picked up ER1CS as well and repeating the process. The knot sizes are roughly 22m on the ER150 and 23-24mm on the other. I'm going to put a finest tgn in one; whipped dog is out of silvertip so any suggestions for the other? I'd like variety. Is there a cheap silvertip available that's recommended for being soft dense etc?

I'm going to rebuild the shelf with cork, pennies n epoxy. Gotta test the weight once I get my knots.

Thanks.

 

[Snargle]

Now is the time to measure the opening and order the knot. With the knot in hand, you can trial fit it and finish removing whatever still needs to be removed. What you still see is remnants of glue. You should remove all or nearly all of it.

+1 Before you glue in the new knot, you'll want to get rid of that crud..it's just old glue and chunks of hair. But now is the time to measure the opening and order your new knot. When I did mine last week, I used a 22 mm TGN Finest Badger. I needed to open up the hole just a little bit with the Dremel to get a comfortable fit.

 

[chrismikehead]

That shine is looking good, and great pics showing the process. I had not seen what this particular model looked like inside.

I think we have another one hooked, gents.

 

[bmilcs]

Ok I got most of it. 22mm it is!

Can I go ahead and use a nail file to smooth the edge now or should I wait?

 

[bmilcs]

I love restoring brushes! Do you guys recommend a particular brand of sanding bits? Mine will NOT stay still. It's really hard to keep momentum with the cheap bits that came with this.

Also, the walls of the second brush are lopsided. I'm having a hard time making them even. Suggestions?

 

[bmilcs]

I went ahead and ordered a 22mm Finest and a 24mm branded boar for the 1CS. Wish me luck fellas.

 

[thedave87]

Ok I got most of it. 22mm it is!

Can I go ahead and use a nail file to smooth the edge now or should I wait?

I used 800 grit sand paper to get it smooth, then used 2000 grit paper to get the scuffs from the 800 out, then polished that with Megiuar's PlastX (a headlight restorer/plastic polish) and a soft cloth to get it back to a mirrored shine.

Also, for what it's worth, I used an aluminum oxide grinding bit for a dremel (it looks like a bullet shaped stone, the also have cylindrical ones), chucked into my cordless drill to help smooth out the interior of the handle and get the final fitment of the knot correct.

I used epoxy as the filler of my handle because I wanted the extra weight. But, be forewarned, that much epoxy is going to get HOT as it cures. Cork, pennies, steel shot, or tungsten will work just as well for filler, just be sure that they don't come loose and rattle.

My last bit of advice is to cover the outside of the handle in a couple layers of masking tape before you glue the knot in. Make sure that the tape doesn't go into the hole in the handle, but just perfectly up to the edge. Trim it if necessary. This will protect the handle from any epoxy that may ooze out if you've used too much, or if your hands aren't steady as you seat it.

 

[bmilcs]

Thanks!

You used a dremel on the edge to smooth it out or by hand?

 

[chrismikehead]

I have used sandpaper to smooth out the hole edge on the few I have worked on - most of the roughness was caused by the Dremel, so I doubt I could smooth the edge out with it.

I've used the sandpaper packs from auto parts stores with 1500/2000/2500 grit sheets, and the above mentioned PlastX polish to finish it off, with good results.

 

[bmilcs]

Thanks a lot guys. I love getting feedback and help along the way!!

 

[thedave87]

Thanks!

You used a dremel on the edge to smooth it out or by hand?

On the inside of the handle I used a dremel aluminum oxide bit in a cordless drill because I don't trust myself to control a dremel well enough to not take off too much material. On the outside I used the sandpaper and polish to get the shine on it.