Endgame... The ATT SE1/Schick Proline Journal

[jmudrick]

@jmudrick

Modern shake sharp!

Update...

I shimmed the Eco under the blade for a quarter of my face and it felt much better. Then I decided to use both halves of the blade at the same time on the rest of my face.

Using both halves of the blade, it seemed like it took more strokes to hit BBS. I was able to go over areas as many times as I wanted to with no fear and apply pressure as well. There was absolutely no sting from the AS on the 3 quarters of my face that I used both halves. There was a little sting on the quarter of my face where I used the shim.

One of the halves had 3 shaves on it while the other half was fresh. I will be trying this with a fresh blade.

My last shave was on Wednesday.

Ok fine I'll get one. Was hesitant as Ruds wasn't able to get it working in his head shave but I can probably manage [emoji2]

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[rabidus]

Ok fine I'll get one. Was hesitant as Ruds wasn't able to get it working in his head shave but I can probably manage [emoji2]

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I never used a Shake Sharp but I remember you said you used 2 blades. This should be similar. The Eco doesn't bend the blade, so both blade edges should be at the same point. I assume this is the same way they sit your Shake sharp. There's no fiddling with the blade, snap it in half in the wrapper(very safe) and place both halves in the blade aligning pins, put the baseplate on and that's it.

 

[jmudrick]

I never used a Shake Sharp but I remember you said you used 2 blades. This should be similar. The Eco doesn't bend the blade, so both blade edges should be at the same point. I assume this is the same way they sit your Shake sharp. There's no fiddling with the blade, snap it in half in the wrapper(very safe) and place both halves in the blade aligning pins, put the baseplate on and that's it.

No the Shake Sharp has a shoulder at the rear cap/plate iinterface which secures the blades and allows for a bend at the shaving end. The curve of the cap furthers this end. The blade makes contact with the hone giving bottom support beyond the edge of the cap. The blade is thus held pretty rigidly, particularly using two, despite the extraordinary cap span.

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[rabidus]

No the Shake Sharp has a shoulder at the rear cap/plate iinterface which secures the blades and allows for a bend at the shaving end. The curve of the cap furthers this end. The blade makes contact with the hone giving bottom support beyond the edge of the cap. The blade is thus held pretty rigidly, particularly using two, despite the extraordinary cap span.

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[jmudrick]

View attachment 1027565

Take that. BIC vs Treet.

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[rabidus]

Take that. BIC vs Treet.

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I didn't know what to expect with the ECO and two blades, but after a few cautious strokes, I got jiggy with it and the results were fantastic! I only shaved ATG.

 

[jmudrick]

I didn't know what to expect with the ECO and two blades, but after a few cautious strokes, I got jiggy with it and the results were fantastic! I only shaved ATG.

This will be fun. Gold in stock so that's what is coming.

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[jmudrick]

Any chance of a photo close up.of the twin blade set-up?. On the Shake Sharp it's easy to see the setback of the top blade.

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[rabidus]

Any chance of a photo close up.of the twin blade set-up?. On the Shake Sharp it's easy to see the setback of the top blade.

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It's difficult to see but both blades are in there. I'll take another picture with more light later, my phone needs to charge. Both blades edges are as one. There are 4 points that the blade is held in, like the half blade shavette sort of.

 

[rabidus]

Any chance of a photo close up.of the twin blade set-up?. On the Shake Sharp it's easy to see the setback of the top blade.

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[Esox]

Now it makes more sense. Thats a very rigid design.

Thanks for that picture. It explains a lot.

 

[rabidus]

Nothing new on the shave front, still shaving with the SE1/Proline.

On another note, I've been watching car videos on Youtube and mistakenly woke the speed demon inside me. Not good!

I'm no stranger to fast cars, at 19 years old, my second was a '74 Chevy Nova with a 350 engine 4 barrel carb. My fifth car was a '87 Chevy Cavalier Z24, 2.8L V6, 5 speed manual trans. That was one fast little car. My ninth car wasn't quick but it was fast, a '98 Honda Accord 4 banger 5 speed manual. Top speed was drag limited to 125 mph from the factory, after a 1.8" suspension drop, it would hit about 138 mph no problem.

Next car was a 2000 Honda Civic Si modified with Intake/header/cat back exaust and gutted cat on coilovers, it would scream straight to 145 mph(redline limited) no problem.

Had a Motorcycle, '03 Honda CBR600F4i. Top speed was about 153 eith me on it.

I bought a '95 Lexus SC300 with a 5 speed manual. It has the non turbo Toyota Supra drivetrain.

'04 Infiniti FX35, it was fast.

'05 Honda S2000.

'07 Toyota Camry SE V6.

Started a family, mini vans. Drove a '90 Lexus LS400 for five years, like a chauffeur, until it died.

Bought a 2011 Nissan Rogue(current car) and drove it like a chauffeur as well until the speed demon surfaced.

I had no idea of the Rogue's performance. I simply love the CVT transmission. Had to replace the CVT in my Nissan Quest($3100) at about 100,000 miles, not fun.

133,000 miles on the Rogue, not sure if its the original trans or not. It was winning, drained and filled fluid and it went away.

CVT, continously variable gear ratios is simply amazing at work. With the O/D off, the revs hang and throttle response is sharp. The Rogue has independent 4 wheel suspension, it is very fun to drive. I'm more inclined to take the back roads to work now.

The Rogue is no sports car and has just enough power to keep me out of trouble. 170 hp, 175 lb/ft of torque on demand with the CVT transmission. It weighs in at 3276 lbs.

I drove the Rogue for two years and never knew how fun it was to drive. I still want to get a sports car, Miata or Toyota 86, but I'm not in a hurry to get one, the Rogue is plenty fun to drive.

I turn off traction control also!

 

[Esox]

My first car was a truck. 1984 GMC Sierra Classic short box 4x4. It had a 305ci Chevy in it that was replaced by a 350ci Chevy .030 over for 355ci's. LT1 heads, Speed Pro Hypereutectic pistons at 11.5:1 and a .480 lift, .290 duration camshaft. Weiand high rise single plane manifold, Holley 650cfm carb and ceramic coated headers. Est. at 420HP and would outrun 5.0L Mustangs in the 1980's, with 3:08 gearing! I had three 700R4 transmissions rebuilt but when I broke the case on the last one I gave up and had a TH400 put in with a 2800rpm stall converter, low gear pack and racing clutches. Rancho 4" suspension lift, no blocks, and 35" BFG Mud Terrains.

I sold that truck to a friend when I bought my 1967 396 Chevelle SS.

The engine was tired in that video and I actually rounded the cam lobes on that run. Then it went in for a rebuild. $8200 later I had a 408ci big block at 10.25:1. A mostly stock rebuild with Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons, heads milled .020 and a .520 lift, .280 duration camshaft. I stayed with the stock Holley carb, intake and exhaust manifolds.

Then I sold it a few years ago to another friend that went a bit nutty on it. He pulled my big block and replaced it with a very well built 427. Dyno'd at over 600hp at the wheels. Its a beast.

That car was my daily driver/grocery getter for 10 years. My winter car was a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix with the supercharged 3.8L V6. Also a fast car but the handling suffered at 170km/h+. The front end would get light, scary.

When it died a slow painful death from rot I replaced it with a 2006 Grand Prix that I'm still driving. It also has the 3.8l supercharged V6 and has no handling issues, even at over 200km/h. Its in excellent shape, has no rust, is garage kept and has over 200,000km's on it now. I had to replace intake gaskets, one wheel bearing, one tie rod end, camshaft position sensor and supercharger bypass valve and did the brakes once in the 5 years I've been driving it. The only thing with it is, the fuel shuts off a 202km/h. If I was to have that fuel cutoff removed, that car would likely go 150mph.

On the highway that car pulls hard all the way to the fuel cutoff. I walked away from a Subaru WRX STi at 110mph, a Ford Raptor at 90mph and walked away from a BMW Z4 to 202km/h where he walked away from me when the fuel shutoff kicked in.

Bikes, several. The fastest I ever went on a bike would be close to 200mph but I wasnt looking at the speedo lol. The fastest I've driven a car was a C5 Corvette on a test drive to 168mph.



Nissan CVT's. You had to mention Nissan (JatCo) CVT's...

After a friend sold his 2007 s/c Grand Prix because of a transmission failure and bought a 2011 Nissan Sentra, I looked into CVT's and learned a lot.

I read a few TSB's, Troubleshooting Bulletins, for the 2011 Sentra and found one that stated the car could be driven at 65mph, at 85F degrees ambient air temp for one hour before the fluid temp became hot enough to cause the belt to slip and the car to gradually slow down.

Below are examples of other similar TSB's.

TrueDelta | Nissan Sentra Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)

See 2011 Nissan Sentra technical service bulletins (TSBs) at TrueDelta, organized by model year and problem area

www.truedelta.com

See the video below as an example of that on a Los Angeles highway.

The belt slipping like that wears grooves into the pulleys. Those stainless steel pulleys were $4000 the last I checked.

CVT transmissions are really cool technology, but they can have serious, and even dangerous, issues. In the case of Nissan (JatCo) the problem is (was?) a lack of cooling. The pulleys operate by fluid pressure. As you accelerate the pulleys become narrower and as you decelerate the pulleys become wider, continuously altering belt tension. All controlled by internal transmission fluid pressure. Because they're driven by a steel reenforced Kevlar belt on stainless steel pulleys, that generates a lot of heat.

At the time I looked into them there were 5 active lawsuits. Apparently, thats down to one class action suit now.

Patricia Weckwerth, et. al. v. Nissan North America, Inc. - http://www.sentraversacvtsettlement.com/

One suit was settled when Nissan decided to extend warranty coverage.

Nissan CVT Warranty Extension — Valero Law, APC - https://www.valerolaw.com/news/2018/8/31/nissan-cvt-warranty-extension

This is part 2 of a 2010 Nissan Rogue CVT tear down and failure analysis.

Toyota makes the best CVT at the moment but technology is improving quickly and soon all transmissions will be CVT's.

 

[rabidus]

ee the video below as an example of that on a Los Angeles highway.


The belt slipping like that wears grooves into the pulleys. Those stainless steel pulleys were $4000 the last I checked.

My car did that did that on a 1000 mile drive to Texas back in may of last year.

They claim the fluid is lifetime and doesn't need to be changed. 5 quarts drained out and I replaced it with 5 quarts of Valvoline CVT fluid when i changed mine.

So far so good, I drive the car hard on the way to work with O/D off, rpms stay between 4000 and 6000. O/D off is sport mode on newer Nissan cars.

Nissan uses a steel belt in their transmission.

I think transmission shops charged a lot of money for CVT's because they could. I had the CVT replaced in my Nissan Quest for $3100 a year ago. It probably only needed a hundred dollar valve body.

I'm changing my fluid every 25,000 to 30,000 miles from now on. I can get a quart of Valvoline CVT fluid for $8, Nissan NS2/NS3 fluid cost around $25 a quart from the dealer, not much cheaper online.

Toyota added a physical first gear and then it switches over to the pulleys.

Nissan dosen't sell parts for the CVT transmission, they only sell the whole transmission when you need one, so I think it's all about money.

I would definitely buy another Nissan, thinking about getting a 2011 Nissan Altima with either the 2.5L or 3.5L engine, my Quest has the 3.5 in it.

Tell your friend to drain and fill the fluid, put back "exactly" what drains out, measure it. Unless you are starting with an empty transmission, I'm not sure the dip stick read correctly with the oil chambers in the pulleys.

I'm not saying Valvoline is equivalent to Nissan fluid, but that is what I used, time will tell.

Turn the O/D and traction control off and have some fun!

I bought a tranny cooler and the tranny oil cooler upgrade for the CVT, i haven't installed it yet though.

On some Nissan's, antifreeze is routed to a small cube oil cooler on the side of the transmission. To add a tranny cooler, you have to upgrade that cube oil cooler to allow fluid to actually leave the tranny. There are no tranny fluid lines to the radiator from the transmission on my Rogue, but my Quest does have tranny fluid lines to the radiator from the transmission.

 

[Esox]

Adding a larger secondary cooler to any transmission is a wise move. I learned many years ago that the main thing that kills transmissions is heat. The fluid over heats, the clutches glaze over and slip, generating more heat, and so on.

The 2011 Sentra only has a heat sink on the transmission pan. Thats why they're prone to overheating and having the speed issue. Nissan fixed that on later models by adding a secondary cooler, they had no choice.

Nissan "upgraded" trans cooler.

https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Transmission-Cooler-Nissan-21606-1XF0A/dp/B07DS7QBWR

That looks cheesy and inefficient to me. Much better off with something like this.

Nissan doesnt sell parts for CVT transmissions because Nissan doesnt make transmissions, of any kind. Nissan owns a controlling interest in JatCo.

Nissan, and several other makers including Mercedes, BMW and Audi use JatCo transmissions in some vehicles, but not their CVT's. They only use their geared transmissions.

I personally wouldnt own a car with a JatCo CVT in it but maybe they have them sorted out by now, I have no idea. CVT isnt the leading edge of transmission design anymore, but it is a pretty cool idea that will see much mainstream use in the years to come I bet. The 1100hp Koenigsegg Regera uses a single speed direct drive transmission.

 

[Esox]

I think transmission shops charged a lot of money for CVT's because they could. I had the CVT replaced in my Nissan Quest for $3100 a year ago. It probably only needed a hundred dollar valve body.

That made me remember the part that let go in the friends 07 GP. It was the 1st gear band, which is the second last thing to come out of the transmission. Its a $20 part, but theres a lot of labour to get at it.

ACDelco® - GM Original Equipment™ Automatic Transmission Manual Band - https://www.carid.com/2007-pontiac-grand-prix-transmission-parts/acdelco-original-equipment-automatic-transmission-band-899113889.html

When you step on the gas, theres a rod that pushes against the tab on the band. If you hammer it off the line, the tab bends and, eventually, breaks. $2500 for a $20 fix lol so dont hammer it off the line. I get mine rolling gently then get on it. With the traction control off, its a tire shredding monster and can only be driven on dry pavement. On a wet road, forget it. The traction control will kick on when passing at 70mph on a wet highway. In snow, you might as well get out and walk with T/C off. Thats with only 260HP.

In the Grand Prixs, the entire engine cradle has to come out then the transmission is removed from the engine. Then, they can pull the tranny apart. The shop here I took him to quoted him $2500- $2800 depending on parts needed. Most of that is labour costs. Because the supercharged cars use the 4T65E HD (Heavy Duty) they're impossible to find at the wreckers. He had the wreckers on the hotline waiting for one for 6 weeks and they couldnt find him one.

If the time comes for me to replace or rebuild mine, I might put a 4T80E in it. They're from V8 Cadillacs.

 

[rabidus]

I personally wouldnt own a car with a JatCo CVT in it but maybe they have them sorted out by now, I have no idea.

In my research, I think the problem is maintenance. It seems like Nissan dealer mechanics are clueless about the CVT from all that I've read. If the drain and fill is not done on a schedule or done properly, I think thats the biggest problem across the board.

Before I changed my fluid, it was foaming up after a hard run and it was winning bad. None of that after I changed it.

The dealer "supposedly" plugs the car into a computer and it tells them how much life the fluid has left, that's booty chatter!

I drive my car like I stole, I'll see how it holds up. If it breaks, I'll replace it and keep on rolling. For my spirited drive to work and back and canyon runs, continously variable ratios are perfect.

The 1100hp Koenigsegg Regera uses a single speed direct drive transmission.

WOW

 

[Esox]

Its more heat than anything. Foaming is from heat and splash. Because of the fluid pressures in those transmissions, the fluid temp can get well over the boiling point of water and even antifreeze.

Fluid temp in my cars tranny can get to 220F in the summer with just casual driving. Add racing around and high speed runs and its would go to 250 or higher. The only thing that breaks down transmission fluid, and engine oil for that matter, is heat. Although, temps of -40C can alter the molecular structure of engine oils so they no longer lubricate.

At either extreme, fluids need to be changed more often, or, in higher temp situations they need to be properly cooled to a level where there is no longer a viscosity breakdown. In extremely cold weather, thats why they make block and oil pan heaters.

Christian von Koenigsegg is, and always been, at the leading edge of vehicle development and design.

Home - Koenigsegg - https://www.koenigsegg.com/

284mph high speed run and a world record with a two way run avg of over 277mph.

His new Jesko, will apparently go over 300mph. 1281hp from a 5L twin turbo V8. Think about that. A 5L engine, 307ci's, with 1281HP.

 

[rabidus]

His new Jesko, will apparently go over 300mph. 1281hp from a 5L twin turbo V8. Think about that. A 5L engine, 307ci's, with 1281HP.

That one:1 is insane also!

My CVT has Low, Drive and O/D on or off. If you start in L, it gets the quickest launch and the rpms stay between 5500 and 6000(max hp), while the CVT does it's thing.

I read online that a guy drag races(1/4 mile) his Honda CRZ with CVT in L to get the best time. I think hes in the 13's.

 

[rabidus]

So, I played with L on the CVT today. Traction control off, place shifter in L, release brake, press accelerator petal to floor. The RPM rockets to about 6000 and stays there. I stopped at about 80 mph, but it would have kept going. When I took my foot off the pedal, the ratios kept the RPM at about 6000. Redline is about 6500 RPM, Horsepower is 170@6000 RPM. I have never been able to hit redline in my Rogue or Quest, the CVT won't allow it. It gets close and holds it there.

I found this interesting.

Why a CVT Is Basically the Perfect Transmission

A dual-clutch gearbox is an automatic, and it isn't even the best one.

www.roadandtrack.com

Yet this is the same transmission that was banned from Formula One before the first car so equipped, a 1993 prototype by Williams, turned a single lap in competition. It's easy to see why: when tuned for competition purposes, a CVT allows the engine to produce maximum power at all times. This is an advantage far more significant than the friction losses suffered by a CVT in comparison to a traditional gearbox.