Eleven Years On

[Guido75]

Man, that blade exposure on the Old Type is massive

That reminds me: the Fatip you have (assuming it’s a new one) is known as the Mk2. It has a large width cap therefore exposing the blade less. Mk1 is allegedly far more aggressive. They are still available here and there on the baysites (new old stock rather than second hand). So in the past their similarities were even more present I guess.

Guido

 

[desertcat]

Mk1 is allegedly far more aggressive

Considering I could never manage a 3-pass with the Old Type, I don't think I'll be seeking out the previous FaTip iteration anytime soon. Someday I'll work up the courage to revisit the Old Type, probably after multi-day growth.

 

[mgweatherly]

Yep. I read about the stories and then saw your close ups. I think my skin will find it too daunting. So I never pursued to get one - even though they are quite easy to get by. O yeah and I read a lot of reviews on cracked handles.

And after getting my latest acquisition I am out of razor stands anyway.

But it sounds like you think I am missing out?

Guido

They aren't my favorite razor to use, but I do think they need to be experienced. After all, they are among the earliest DE razor designs ever.

 

[Guido75]

They aren't my favorite razor to use, but I do think they need to be experienced. After all, they are among the earliest DE razor designs ever.

True. I will add it to the never-ending list

Guido

 

[desertcat]

1/3 SOTD

Yesterday's shave was very thorough and long-lasting, today's growth is light- and I could probably get away without shaving but, what's the fun in that? And I'm working today so I want to look reasonable.

I'm interested in comparing yesterday's inaugural FaTip shave with the GC. I bin the blade that's in the GC (I think it had 3 prior uses) and replace it with the AstraSP from my SS, so it's had 1 shave already.

Typical preparations otherwise, shower and hot towel. I need more gentle music today so I put on Simple Things by Zero 7.

For the sake of variety I grab the RR 400 Plisson, again with Arko and a touch of Cremo (because I used Tabac yesterday). Will need to try the synthetic with Tabac sometime soon. I gently form a nice hydrated and rich lather.
The GC is a comfortable ride as usual. When compared to the Grande I'd say it's a little more natural to the razors I'm used to using--I have an easier time finding my working angles and don't have to focus with quite the same intensity. Very productive passes and I resist the urge to shave fully ATG in some of my sensitive areas. I do pay closer attention to a couple ATG cleanups in the corners of my mouth--and I succeed in getting a much closer shave than normal in those areas, without any weepers. The neck is easily as close as yesterday, but with no irritation. I do a brief 4th pass of buffing on the chin. One tiny weeper does appear after the 3rd pass in the goatee area.
Alum is less noticeable than yesterday, followed by Nivea Sensitive, Neut eye cream, and Burt's Bees chapstick. I never mentioned it earlier but I apply chapstick daily... doesn't everyone else? I alternate between Burt's Bees (more waxy and protective) and Dr. Bronner's (more hydrating).
Have no idea what I'll shave with tomorrow. These efficient razors make for such clean shaves. I'm tempted to try the FaTip on lighter growth just to see the outcome. I do feel like the FaTip requires much more awareness, and though it delivers a lovely result I like that the GC is a little more foolproof. Of course if I want to shave with my brain fully in the "off" position, I can always reach for the SS and get a DFS+ with my eyes barely open. It's that last measure of closeness that I can't fully achieve with the SS (without raising some irritation).

Have a good shave!

 

[desertcat]

1/4 SOTD

Writing long after the shave. Things have been somewhat tumultuous on the homefront, my partner was struggling to return from visiting her family many states away, lots of bad weather at major airport hubs delayed her return by 24+ hours, so I've been spending a lot of time looking at FlightAware and trying to help make alternative plans when her flights get canceled or connections fall through. Fortunately she was able to finally arrive home this evening--just in time to prepare for her work-related road trip to Eastern Washington--no rest for the wicked.

When I awoke this morning, I couldn't believe how thorough yesterday's shave had been. Barely enough growth to call it "growth," light-- I suppose. I easily could've skipped shaving, but I needed to wash my hair and I'm sure by the time I was expected at work, I'd be looking a little more stubble-y. So how to approach today's shave?

I decide on putting a new AstraSP into the Merkur34C. Since it's a familiar razor, I grab the new white handle Omega and go with Tabac for lather. After listening to a podcast I queue Little Dark Age by MGMT.

In the first pass I notice a couple things: first, my technique has improved with the Merkur, steeper angle is making it a more effective shaver. However I'm also feeling a tingle of irritation, especially in the mustache area. I'm suspicious of the Tabac. The blade feels less smooth in this razor than the GC or FaTip, I recall a history of having harsher shaves with fresh blades in the Merkur. It's a very fast shave, I think I spend less than 15 minutes total--not trying to chase closeness, but I do a touchup after pass 3 in areas I know are easier to get BBS without irritation--mainly the chin.
No weepers while shaving but one appears after rinsing. The alum rubdown confirms that lather was the culprit for the burning tingle, not anything the razor did--the alum has no sting, which can't be said for many of my Merkur shaves. I think it's several factors at work: two prior days of close shaves, the new Omega is not entirely broken-in, and Tabac-- I love the lather, so it's tragic that it sometimes disagrees with my skin. Until that Omega is better broken in, I ought to use products other than Tabac. The result is still a BBS- generally, perhaps DFS+ on the upper lip.

Today's moisturizer is Neutrogena Hydro Boost, it briefly burns/tingles when applied that dissipates after a few moments. Neut eye cream. Overall the irritation was resolved by rinsing the Tabac off the face, and fortunately I'm quicker at shaving now, so any lasting effect has been avoided. Still perplexed why the fresh blade in the Merkur is not as comfortable as some of my newer razors. Feels like the Merkur has suddenly become irrelevant--it's not as foolproof/mild as the SS, but not as smoothly aggressive as the GC or FaTip. Even in the last month, I know it's given me an excellent shave--so I wonder what conditions are different. And of course, I wonder why I never have a good shave with my Fat Handle Tech. I'll have to do some inspecting when I next load a blade, see if there's any misalignment or something outside of my technique that has an effect. Because the RR GC has never given me a bad shave, so I am doubting it's a matter of skill. Who knows. Maybe I'm just looking for an excuse to buy another Tech.

 

[Guido75]

I wonder why I never have a good shave with my Fat Handle Tech.

Do you shave steep or shallow with your Tech? I tend to benefit from a steeper angle and a comfortably sharper blade.

Guido

 

[Guido75]

Maybe I'm just looking for an excuse to buy another Tech.

Perhaps a Flat Bottom Tech can be a great addition?

 

[desertcat]

Do you shave steep or shallow with your Tech? I tend to benefit from a steeper angle and a comfortably sharper blade.

Guido

I probably tend too shallow. I think it was a habit that started with the Merkur. All my Techs are definitely "user grade" so I don't know if that's a contributing factor. In addition to the Fat Handle, I have a later model travel-size Tech (I haven't looked up the age) and a Franken-Tech I received in a PIF or BST sale ages ago, I also don't know the model. I ought to research (and test) them, too.

 

[Guido75]

I probably tend too shallow. I think it was a habit that started with the Merkur. All my Techs are definitely "user grade" so I don't know if that's a contributing factor. In addition to the Fat Handle, I have a later model travel-size Tech (I haven't looked up the age) and a Franken-Tech I received in a PIF or BST sale ages ago, I also don't know the model. I ought to research (and test) them, too.

Please do. The Tech is really a fine razor too at least experience once in a good shave.

Guido

 

[thombrogan]

Very glad to read your partner got home even if it was just before the start of another trek.

Sad to read Tabac isn’t getting along with your skin. Had the same thing happen with other soaps. One caused weepers while lathering (Ach Brito Mogno).

Your Merkur 34C might need another technique adjustment when used at a steep angle. Shallower angles let the user apply more pressure with less consequence because so much of it is bled off parallel to the skin. Or maybe it’s haunted. I dunno, but wish you good luck with your next shaves.

 

[mgweatherly]

FYI, here's a photo of the blade exposure on my Merkur 34C. It looks to be negative between about 0.006" and 0.008" (for reference, the blade is 0.004" thick). I've never been able to get the 34C to work for me, but I haven't tried very hard (only two shaves). I will revisit it because it was a gift from my father. The next time I try it, I'm going to focus on keeping a neutral angle (i.e., ride both cap and guard equally). Others have told me that the 34C has a very narrow optimum angle of operation. The 34C also looks like a good candidate for trying a KAI blade (which is slightly wider from cutting edge to cutting edge).

 

[desertcat]

Thanks to everyone for your replies, takes the sting out of yesterday's less-than-stellar shave.

Merkur 34C might need another technique adjustment

No doubt that in shaves long ago, I think my technique was "add pressure, ride cap" but I would say my angle yesterday was pretty neutral overall, maybe steeper in the first pass. And don't get me wrong, the results of the shave were pretty good--just not as comfortable as some of my other razors, and not as close either. But I wonder if yesterday's shave is about as close+comfortable as the Merkur is capable of giving me...

34C has a very narrow optimum angle of operation

This is what I noticed in the first moments of using the RR GC: I could tell the razor would still "work" at a huge number of angles compared to the Merkur. Is this why the 34C is considered a beginner razor, because the negative blade exposure means "safety" or makes a very narrow window of danger (and consequently, effectiveness)?? I've shaved with the Merkur for 10 years, and thought I was getting pretty good results--until I picked up a different razor. A different razor than my Techs, anyway, which I still haven't mastered.

Tabac isn’t getting along with your skin

Like I said I think numerous factors contributed to the lather irritation. I've used Tabac every-other-shave for years, occasionally noticing some irritation... but I'm usually brushing with a 15-year-old Omega boar instead of a brand-new one. I'm looking forward to having another badger, so I have more variety in softer brushes. I think I also have a tendency to face lather with a pretty heavy hand. I will probably give Tabac a rest for several days, just to ensure I can use it comfortably in the future.

---

Speaking of Techs, let's look at what I'm working with:

Top to bottom: Fat Handle, FrankenTech, and Travel

And taken apart, for our inspection:

On the underside of the baseplate, the Travel Tech is stamped J beneath "Reg US" , 1 below "Pat Off" so it's definitely a '67, top cap is also engraved with the Gillette typographic logo (not the diamond) ...neither the FrankenTech nor the Fat Handle are stamped with date codes, given the triangular holes in the guard are they both Early Techs? Do they shave much differently than later models?

 

[mgweatherly]

Both of the undated Techs are so-called "Pre-war" Techs made in 1938-45 (the triangular lather slots place them in that period). The fat handle was typical of that era and the other handle is from a "contract" Tech, which I think spanned only the years during which the USA was involved in WWII (1941-45) and may have also extended to slightly later than 1945. The contract Techs show a LOT of variation in the materials for the baseplate and handle and some of the baseplates having the straight-sided slots. I believe that the early Techs had a blade gap of 0.025" that shrank later to 0.018" or so. I've measured small variations from razor to razor in the examples that I have. I think the Techs like the ones you have typically shave very slightly more aggressively than the later Techs (like your travel head). But I don't think there is really too much difference.

The travel Tech you have has a cap cast of Zamak rather than being brass like the older Techs. None of your Techs looks damaged to me, but damage could easily escape detection in photos like the ones you posted. I'm sure that you already know that you can use any one your handles with any one of your cap/baseplate pairs.

With all that said, I'm actually surprised that you've not been able to get good results from a Tech. I've always found them to be mild, easy to use, razors that can deliver as much closeness as you care to go for. That's why I picked a Tech (a 1961) for the razor I would use to evaluate the 20 blades that I recently received in a PIF. I've been able to get a BBS shave with all but few of the 19 blades that I've used so far. I would say a neutral angle is best, but you can vary the angle without creating irritation. I even think that the Tech is fairly tolerant of being a little heavy-handed; a little. I think a light touch is always better.

 

[desertcat]

@mgweatherly thanks for your in-depth reply, I really appreciate your expertise on these vintage Gillettes. Considering I've had good shaves from more aggressive razors, I don't think I'm applying pressure--my angle might need better attention. I basically only use the Fat Handle (because the look of that "contract" is pretty rough) but I should try the travel head on the Fat Handle to see how it performs. I also should try other blades at some point. Thanks for your encouragement.

 

[Guido75]

Correct me if I am wrong Mitch @mgweatherly, but the Fat Handle is lighter than the Contract one right? As the Fat Handle - despite its name - is hollow. I thought the Contract handle was solid brass.

In that case I would alternate between the handles to see if that makes a difference to the balance towards the heads.

And obviously any other aftermarket handles like you have for your GC will fit as well.

Cheers and happy explorations,

Guido

 

[mgweatherly]

I have a contract Tech with a brass handle that weighs 27 grams. I also have numerous Fat handles, and the one I just weighed comes in at 26 grams. I doubt anyone could tell the difference. BUT, I also weighed the stock ball end handle that came with my 1961 Tech, which is nickel plated brass, and it weighs 37 grams and feels noticeably heavier.

 

[Guido75]

I have a contract Tech with a brass handle that weighs 27 grams. I also have numerous Fat handles, and the one I just weighed comes in at 26 grams. I doubt anyone could tell the difference. BUT, I also weighed the stock ball end handle that came with my 1961 Tech, which is nickel plated brass, and it weighs 37 grams and feels noticeably heavier.

Ok thanks - I only have a Fat Handle and my incorrect assumption was that the Contract had resemblance to the Fatip Piccolo which is heavier than 26 grams. Interesting that the 1961 is heavier.

Guido

 

[mgweatherly]

I've also got an Aluminum ball end handle for a Tech that weighs only 13 grams. The aluminum spiral Tech handles made in England are also really lightweight.

 

[desertcat]

1/5 SOTD

Need to keep it brief, running short on time today.

Wanted to revisit the FaTip, despite growth being on the light side. Blade is the same as earlier, shave #2 for the AstraSP. Lather was scrap bowl and Cremo with the TGN badger. Overall the lather was fine for the first two passes but insufficient in quantity and cushion for pass 3, I ended up relathering with Arko which was probably overkill on my face. If I had bowl lathered perhaps it would've reduced irritation. I really need to change up my lather strategy. Those BST soaps can't arrive soon enough.
The first two passes with the FaTip went quickly and smoothly, I got greedy with the ATG pass. I should have either finished the shave early or started with XTG because the growth was so slight, and the FaTip is probably aggressive enough to manage. So I definitely felt the alum sting more than usual. Only a couple weepers, handled easily by the alum. Nivea balm for post-shave. DFS+/BBS- result, not as comfortable as I prefer. Feeling a little "hot" around the chin and neck afterword. Still, I've had worse shaves (in both irritation and closeness) and I gained greater respect for the skill ceiling and aggressiveness of the FaTip.