Please heal quickly. Just because it’s called a “Red Tip” doesn’t mean it needs to stay in character.
Eleven Years On
- Thread starter desertcat
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #162
Thanks Thom, it was much milder than my 3-pass with the Slim on 7, just a touch of lingering heat on the jawline.
- Thread starter
- #163
2/8
Shaved later than usual yesterday, and the Red Tip had very persistent results. Not much to remove today, but we'll give the '66 Tech & Nacet another go.
I choose the Simpson Colonel Best badger with Arko, except I don't want to risk irritation with a face lather--so I shave off a bit from my stick and press it into the lather bowl. After whipping for a while, I transfer to the face. I find the sharpness of these bristles requires me to brush with a lighter hand, a good reminder.
First pass from North to South does find some stubble to remove. Second pass South to North is also effective, I go outside to inside on the mustache to keep that area milder. I relather to do a goatee/mustahce/chin touchup, more fully ATG which is sort of upwardly diagonal outside to inside. Alum finds some feedback, but perhaps somewhat less than yesterday. I choose HydroBoost for a lighter finish over CeraVe. It briefly itches under the jawline, but subsides relatively quickly. Results are BBS- and the neck is more DFS+ which I think is as close as conditions warranted today. Anything akin to irritation I believe is associated with the scritchy brush and yesterday's blade-heavier shave.
I don't love that brush, but felt compelled to reach for it today--other brushes were not calling my name. It reminds me of the "pure" badger brush I started with years ago. I am a little wiser now, better at avoiding brush burn (which I used to struggle with frequently). Funny how frequently I find myself bowl lathering, which I never ever used to do; close daily shaving requires different approaches. I formerly shaved every-other-day thinking my skin couldn't tolerate more frequent encounters with a razor. However I just needed to make some adjustments; I don't even think the razor was the primary irritant.
All these two-pass vertical shaves (and their close results) are making me think about beard mapping. Ironically I'm finding success mostly ignoring growth with these directional approaches. I mean, knowing that I should shave the Adam's Apple horizontally for first pass (which for me, is with the grain) demonstrates the value in knowing your growth directions. But sharp blades and reasonably good technique can accomplish close, comfortable shaving without needing to obsess over following a map.
Shaved later than usual yesterday, and the Red Tip had very persistent results. Not much to remove today, but we'll give the '66 Tech & Nacet another go.
I choose the Simpson Colonel Best badger with Arko, except I don't want to risk irritation with a face lather--so I shave off a bit from my stick and press it into the lather bowl. After whipping for a while, I transfer to the face. I find the sharpness of these bristles requires me to brush with a lighter hand, a good reminder.
First pass from North to South does find some stubble to remove. Second pass South to North is also effective, I go outside to inside on the mustache to keep that area milder. I relather to do a goatee/mustahce/chin touchup, more fully ATG which is sort of upwardly diagonal outside to inside. Alum finds some feedback, but perhaps somewhat less than yesterday. I choose HydroBoost for a lighter finish over CeraVe. It briefly itches under the jawline, but subsides relatively quickly. Results are BBS- and the neck is more DFS+ which I think is as close as conditions warranted today. Anything akin to irritation I believe is associated with the scritchy brush and yesterday's blade-heavier shave.
I don't love that brush, but felt compelled to reach for it today--other brushes were not calling my name. It reminds me of the "pure" badger brush I started with years ago. I am a little wiser now, better at avoiding brush burn (which I used to struggle with frequently). Funny how frequently I find myself bowl lathering, which I never ever used to do; close daily shaving requires different approaches. I formerly shaved every-other-day thinking my skin couldn't tolerate more frequent encounters with a razor. However I just needed to make some adjustments; I don't even think the razor was the primary irritant.
All these two-pass vertical shaves (and their close results) are making me think about beard mapping. Ironically I'm finding success mostly ignoring growth with these directional approaches. I mean, knowing that I should shave the Adam's Apple horizontally for first pass (which for me, is with the grain) demonstrates the value in knowing your growth directions. But sharp blades and reasonably good technique can accomplish close, comfortable shaving without needing to obsess over following a map.
That’s a gem right there. Set it in your shaving pinky ring.
I have been getting similar results the last couple of weeks doing exactly that! If I use N-S and S-N I am actually shaving somewhat XTG and it is giving me very decent results. Not always BBS, but always comfortable and without mishaps.
Great shaving descriptions again DC!
Guido
- Thread starter
- #166
You were certainly an inspiration to try this method! A few weeks back I also watched a few Geo videos and wondered if I could get a decent 2-pass with primarily vertical approaches. I just always found if my two passes were WTG + XTG I didn't get close enough results, and horizontal XTG + horizontal/vertical ATG felt too substantial for my less-aggressive razors. Although I think the FaTip can accomplish that approach.
Fantastic description and post @desertcat, thank you for posting this. Learned a ton right here. You're getting great results with the vertical passes I started with but moved away from. I'm going to try them again
- Thread starter
- #169
2/9
Catching up on the journal, was too busy to write yesterday. Had an earlier start than usual with a dental cleaning (hygienist says to floss more thoroughly, but no problems were spotted) and a meeting at work.
Needing a close and easy shave, I popped a new AstraSP into the GameChanger .84P and lathered my recently acquired Mike's Natural in Barbershop scent with my old Omega 49. Wish the shave could have been more leisurely to enjoy this soap, excellent performance and post-shave feel. Stuck with the 2 pass pattern and touchup, which was comfortable and very close. Concluded by CeraVe, generally BBS-/BBS results. I don't think I have much detail to add, it was a good shave.
2/10
Dehydrated and tired today, I needed some extra sleep and thankfully my schedule allowed it.
It's FaTip Friday, so I moved the blade from yesterday into the Grande and wanted to keep things Italian with Cella--I received a tubful of the brick from a B&Ber. I chose the TGN Badger for a brush today. Growth was at a solid medium.
I fussed with trying to ensure the blade was aligned properly before starting. My routine was typical but I neglected to do a hot towel, a missed opportunity to improve the WTG pass. I intended to do the same 2.5 pass I've been doing, but during the second pass upward pattern I had to switch to more outside -> inside directions for mildness. The razor felt very harsh today, don't know if I was tending toward too steep an angle, or unknowingly applying pressure. After the first 2 complete passes I was still feeling stubble, which I attempted to remove with a pure ATG touchup which is nearly a full pass, I just skip the cheeks. I struggle to determine why the shave feels so difficult today, the ATG pass opens a couple weepers in the goatee. The chin goes easier, and the neck and jawline go more smoothly. The alum has noticeable sting, especially in the goatee. I wrap up with HydroBoost, results are BBS/BBS- with missed spots below the lower lip that are more like DFS-. I feel some general blade irritation still lingering everywhere, which I'm sure will abate soon enough.
The results are close, but comfort was not achievable today. Unsure what the problem was, though I think poor technique was a major influence. I worry that the blade was somehow misaligned, I'm tempted to bin the blade and start afresh. I regret not changing razors during the shave, I was just too stubborn to reach for the Tech. No matter, tomorrow will be a new opportunity.
Catching up on the journal, was too busy to write yesterday. Had an earlier start than usual with a dental cleaning (hygienist says to floss more thoroughly, but no problems were spotted) and a meeting at work.
Needing a close and easy shave, I popped a new AstraSP into the GameChanger .84P and lathered my recently acquired Mike's Natural in Barbershop scent with my old Omega 49. Wish the shave could have been more leisurely to enjoy this soap, excellent performance and post-shave feel. Stuck with the 2 pass pattern and touchup, which was comfortable and very close. Concluded by CeraVe, generally BBS-/BBS results. I don't think I have much detail to add, it was a good shave.
2/10
Dehydrated and tired today, I needed some extra sleep and thankfully my schedule allowed it.
It's FaTip Friday, so I moved the blade from yesterday into the Grande and wanted to keep things Italian with Cella--I received a tubful of the brick from a B&Ber. I chose the TGN Badger for a brush today. Growth was at a solid medium.
I fussed with trying to ensure the blade was aligned properly before starting. My routine was typical but I neglected to do a hot towel, a missed opportunity to improve the WTG pass. I intended to do the same 2.5 pass I've been doing, but during the second pass upward pattern I had to switch to more outside -> inside directions for mildness. The razor felt very harsh today, don't know if I was tending toward too steep an angle, or unknowingly applying pressure. After the first 2 complete passes I was still feeling stubble, which I attempted to remove with a pure ATG touchup which is nearly a full pass, I just skip the cheeks. I struggle to determine why the shave feels so difficult today, the ATG pass opens a couple weepers in the goatee. The chin goes easier, and the neck and jawline go more smoothly. The alum has noticeable sting, especially in the goatee. I wrap up with HydroBoost, results are BBS/BBS- with missed spots below the lower lip that are more like DFS-. I feel some general blade irritation still lingering everywhere, which I'm sure will abate soon enough.
The results are close, but comfort was not achievable today. Unsure what the problem was, though I think poor technique was a major influence. I worry that the blade was somehow misaligned, I'm tempted to bin the blade and start afresh. I regret not changing razors during the shave, I was just too stubborn to reach for the Tech. No matter, tomorrow will be a new opportunity.
- Thread starter
- #170
Inspired by earlier exchanges with @Lockback I had been meaning to update my inventory and post a few photos of my current equipment. Here's the razors I have in rotation:
They're arranged roughly in the order they were acquired, most recent to earliest left-to-right:
Gillette '66 Tech
Gillette '55 Red Tip Super Speed
FaTip Grande
RazoRock GameChanger .84-P SB
Gillette '62 Slim Adjustable
Gillette '57 Flare Tip
Gillette Prewar Fat Handle Tech
Merkur 34C
I shave regularly with the first 6. The Prewar Tech is on my list to do an extended trial, after I experiment with a few more blades. I feel compelled to keep the Merkur out of the drawer, even though I no longer use it--because it was a gift from my family, and my first DE razor.
In the drawer I have an Old Type, a Contract Tech, a spare Flare Tip SS, and the Weishi 9306-G.
One more photo of the workhorses:
A nice spread of mild to moderately-aggressive razors.
Now onto brushes:
We begin on the left, with my grandfather's shaving brush. I do not use this brush, but it stays on the bathroom counter along with his shaving mug (which I do use, for soaking brushes).
Then we have the synthetics: Whipped Dog ceramic handle, I don't know the brand of knot. Yaqi Tuxedo in Sagrada Familia handle. RazoRock Plissoft 400 in Rubberset-inspired handle.
Followed by badgers: Whipped Dog ceramic handle with two-band. Yaqi Silvertip in metal handle. Simpson Colonel X2L with best badger. TGN Finest in Ever Ready handle.
And the boars: Whipped Dog resin handle with unknown knot. New Omega 49 in white handle. Old Omega 49 in black handle.
For lathers, I have the following:
I will likely get a few more creams for the warmer months. I have a non-mentholated Cube from PAA coming (thanks to @flask28 ) and for post shave, I have Nivea, HydroBoost, and CeraVe cream.
Overall, I'm pleased with the options of my expanded equipment. I have been especially appreciative of B&Bers on the BST, which is where most of my purchases have been made. Eventually I'd like some heavier-handled, higher-loft brushes--many in my current collection feel short and small. I did feel like it was time for a new razor (hint hint) but that will be revealed when it arrives. Of course, there's a whole world of things I haven't tried, but for the time being I will be focusing on having comfortable & close shaves with my current stable.
They're arranged roughly in the order they were acquired, most recent to earliest left-to-right:
Gillette '66 Tech
Gillette '55 Red Tip Super Speed
FaTip Grande
RazoRock GameChanger .84-P SB
Gillette '62 Slim Adjustable
Gillette '57 Flare Tip
Gillette Prewar Fat Handle Tech
Merkur 34C
I shave regularly with the first 6. The Prewar Tech is on my list to do an extended trial, after I experiment with a few more blades. I feel compelled to keep the Merkur out of the drawer, even though I no longer use it--because it was a gift from my family, and my first DE razor.
In the drawer I have an Old Type, a Contract Tech, a spare Flare Tip SS, and the Weishi 9306-G.
One more photo of the workhorses:
A nice spread of mild to moderately-aggressive razors.
Now onto brushes:
We begin on the left, with my grandfather's shaving brush. I do not use this brush, but it stays on the bathroom counter along with his shaving mug (which I do use, for soaking brushes).
Then we have the synthetics: Whipped Dog ceramic handle, I don't know the brand of knot. Yaqi Tuxedo in Sagrada Familia handle. RazoRock Plissoft 400 in Rubberset-inspired handle.
Followed by badgers: Whipped Dog ceramic handle with two-band. Yaqi Silvertip in metal handle. Simpson Colonel X2L with best badger. TGN Finest in Ever Ready handle.
And the boars: Whipped Dog resin handle with unknown knot. New Omega 49 in white handle. Old Omega 49 in black handle.
For lathers, I have the following:
| Soaps: Mike's Natural Barbershop Cella Brick MWF Tabac Arko D.R. Harris Arlington stick Ogallala Bay Rum | Creams: Lea Professional Sensitive Lea Classic Pamolive Classic Cremo (used only as preshave) |
I will likely get a few more creams for the warmer months. I have a non-mentholated Cube from PAA coming (thanks to @flask28 ) and for post shave, I have Nivea, HydroBoost, and CeraVe cream.
Overall, I'm pleased with the options of my expanded equipment. I have been especially appreciative of B&Bers on the BST, which is where most of my purchases have been made. Eventually I'd like some heavier-handled, higher-loft brushes--many in my current collection feel short and small. I did feel like it was time for a new razor (hint hint) but that will be revealed when it arrives. Of course, there's a whole world of things I haven't tried, but for the time being I will be focusing on having comfortable & close shaves with my current stable.
Beautiful collection! I'm jealous, particularly of vintage razors. I may pick up one someday. But in the meantime, I'll just drool over yours. 
@desertcat, you have a great Den!
It's cool to see how our choices have been simmilar and different, as we started about the same time. We both have a selection of much the same vintage gillettes an a gamechanger. We both followed the "standard" advice given here I see!
What I really like about your den is your soap collection. You started with the classics, something I wish I'd done rather than the Road of a Thousand Samples. Pros and cons either way I bet
Thanks for taking the time to post this! It's very cool to see other collections, especially those of the class of 2023 like us!
It's cool to see how our choices have been simmilar and different, as we started about the same time. We both have a selection of much the same vintage gillettes an a gamechanger. We both followed the "standard" advice given here I see!
What I really like about your den is your soap collection. You started with the classics, something I wish I'd done rather than the Road of a Thousand Samples. Pros and cons either way I bet
Thanks for taking the time to post this! It's very cool to see other collections, especially those of the class of 2023 like us!
Beautiful collection! I'm jealous, particularly of vintage razors. I may pick up one someday. But in the meantime, I'll just drool over yours.
@Lockback, I'm sure it won't be long before we're oogling at your den!
Not sure if we already covered this before and if so I apologise, but if you load your Fatip upside down on a towel and screw the handle back on upside down as well the blade has a better chance of better alignment.
The other thing is that may have occurred is when you switched the blade from the GC to the Fatip it may have affected the blade as the edge changes with the shape of the razor. At least as I have had shaves with a Tiger blade that from the onset in a Fatip were good and were worse when I used the blade in another razor first.
And sometimes the stats just don’t align and you get another chance the next day.
Cheers,
Guido
WOW! Thanks for this. A very nice looking collection. You haven’t used the Red Tip much or have you? Great razors in all and how about those brushes! I adore my Razorock Plissoft 400 - it’s my lather king.
And a new razor on the way?! And you leave us hanging with “hint hint”! New, vintage, high end, normal, open, closed, adjustable???? Kidding, but do share pictures!!
All in all a very fine combination of great gear to look forward to selecting each morning!
Cheers,
Guido
Nah, I'm not much of a collector. I'm driven more by things that fill a niche. That, and my wife would kill me. LOL
- Thread starter
- #179
Worth considering, a little variety is nice. I think the total of all my vintage razors had a near-equivalent cost to the GameChanger, as long as you're not looking for new-in-box collector-tier items it's all very affordable. The Gillette Tech is a wonderful tool, and there's good variety between the production years and origins.
Correct, I've had one shave with the '55 Red Tip. The results were very thorough, but the shave was a little harsh--not quite as much as doing 3-passes with the Slim on 7. I think with time I can tame the razor. Further testing is necessary!
I think this was a major culprit. I always load the FaTip upside down (in my outstretched palm, I fear that a towel might accidentally contact the blade) but when the razor was loaded yesterday, the gap on the teeth looked uneven at first glance. I lightly loosened and retightened the head several times, both upside-down and head up. I struggled to notice whether one side or corner was more aggressive--it just felt harsher in every direction. So I'll give it another go next week with a fresh blade. My earlier shaves with the Grande started with a fresh blade, and I had no issues.
And you brought it to my attention @Guido75 , funny enough. It's great stuff, I shaved with it again today. I don't necessarily buy into the buzz around artisan soaps, but Mike certainly makes a great product.
I left a big hint, and if you're constantly refreshing the BST all the time you might be able to guess. It was a screaming deal on a razor I've been curious about. The postal service says it should arrive on Monday.
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- Thread starter
- #180
2/11 SOTD
Despite the discomfort, yesterday's shave was certainly thorough. I have light stubble today. Wanting to keep things easy while still trying a new variable, I grab the '57 Flare Tip and load a fresh Nacet--hoping it's as successful as the Tech/Nacet shaves earlier this week. I want Mike's Natural for lather today, and I use the Whipped Dog two-band badger. I set out for 2 passes and touchup.
Downward pass has noticeable sharpness, but doesn't feel terribly productive overall. In milder razors with AstraSP blades I have sometimes lost the bladefeel, but that's not happening with the Nacet. Upward pass is more productive, but I'm not having the "lightbulb moment" of feeling like the razor is fundamentally changed by this blade--unlike with the Tech. It's still too mild to call it quits after two passes, even with the more aggressive pattern. I relather for a full 3rd ATG pass, which brings the shave to a more satisfying conclusion, but all the blade contact definitely takes a toll. I had more success on the mustache and lower lip than usual, but there's some stubborn areas in the goatee and chin that aren't as close. I get a weeper near the corner of the mouth. Alum has bite, but less than yesterday. I grab the CeraVe and splash a little Thayer's to give a little lighter feel. Overall there's moments of BBS but it's inconsistent, let's call it BBS- with very minor blade burn. Unlike the Tech, I think this razor demands I do a normal WTG/XTG/ATG 3 pass to achieve the level of closeness I prefer. Milder earlier passes might've mitigated the burn.
Like I said, not as transformative as the Nacet in the Tech. I think the mildness of this razor is just difficult to overcome, unless I try a KAI or Feather. I might have a Feather kicking around somewhere actually... But soon the Nacet will travel to another razor, perhaps the GC to get a comparison.
Enjoy your shave today!
Despite the discomfort, yesterday's shave was certainly thorough. I have light stubble today. Wanting to keep things easy while still trying a new variable, I grab the '57 Flare Tip and load a fresh Nacet--hoping it's as successful as the Tech/Nacet shaves earlier this week. I want Mike's Natural for lather today, and I use the Whipped Dog two-band badger. I set out for 2 passes and touchup.
Downward pass has noticeable sharpness, but doesn't feel terribly productive overall. In milder razors with AstraSP blades I have sometimes lost the bladefeel, but that's not happening with the Nacet. Upward pass is more productive, but I'm not having the "lightbulb moment" of feeling like the razor is fundamentally changed by this blade--unlike with the Tech. It's still too mild to call it quits after two passes, even with the more aggressive pattern. I relather for a full 3rd ATG pass, which brings the shave to a more satisfying conclusion, but all the blade contact definitely takes a toll. I had more success on the mustache and lower lip than usual, but there's some stubborn areas in the goatee and chin that aren't as close. I get a weeper near the corner of the mouth. Alum has bite, but less than yesterday. I grab the CeraVe and splash a little Thayer's to give a little lighter feel. Overall there's moments of BBS but it's inconsistent, let's call it BBS- with very minor blade burn. Unlike the Tech, I think this razor demands I do a normal WTG/XTG/ATG 3 pass to achieve the level of closeness I prefer. Milder earlier passes might've mitigated the burn.
Like I said, not as transformative as the Nacet in the Tech. I think the mildness of this razor is just difficult to overcome, unless I try a KAI or Feather. I might have a Feather kicking around somewhere actually... But soon the Nacet will travel to another razor, perhaps the GC to get a comparison.
Enjoy your shave today!
