El Cheapo Beginner's Strop + Bonus Beginner's Question

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Just to set the stage, I don't have a SR yet, and haven't really decided to buy one. I have been using and enjoying my Feather SS barber razor, and all my DR and SE razors. Many years ago I used a straight a little bit, and cut the hell out of myself, but now I think I could master it.

Like everyone else, I'm intimidated by not just the SR but all the other "necessities" including honing, lapping, rust, stones, strops, etc. I'm reading a lot, and buying nothing so far. I'm enjoying the learning curve.

Well, not really. I know how helpful and generous everyone is. This is an amazing forum!

Here's my first group of questions (bonus question towards bottom of post)...

I understand that it's not a good idea to buy an expensive strop when you're just starting out, but how cheap can you go?

I'm interested in getting a 3 inch strop to begin with which rules out some of the less expensive strops generally talked about.

On eBay there are some super inexpensive strops from China but I have no idea if any of them are worth buying. Does anybody know if any of the eBay cheap strops are worth a hoot? I'm not talking about a "forever strop," just something good enough for a beginner.

What I notice with most of the eBay cheap strops is the size is too small or they're just obviously junk, but are there any decent enough ones for beginners, options I've missed that you are aware of?

This (above) is sort of interesting to me, but I understand it isn't likely to do the trick because there is no give at all. Link.

On the other hand, what about this?

Assuming the leather could be inexpensively replaced, which I really don't know, this might be worth buying as a beginner? Link.

I also believe from the reading I've done that a strop should have one leather strop and one canvas or linen strop (with two sides so that one side can be used for stropping and the other for minor touchups with chemical compounds added). This rules out some inexpensive stops which have only a leather strop and it also rules out strops which are leather on one side and cloth on the other.

I find several pretty decent looking strops in the range of about $45 to about $55 including Illinois and Tony Miller. I sorta thinking that might be the cheapest El Cheapo worth buying, but maybe not?

The point is I want to save money but not waste money on something too cheap. I'm not into crummy junk. I understand I'll want a good bit better strop down the road, and I'm only talking here about something to learn on, but something which won't be a waste of money or a truly bad strop.

Any pointers or corrections of my probably incorrect understanding of all this would be appreciated.

I really am embarrassed to ask this one, but I don't see anybody discussing it.

I know SRs have to be dried very well so they don't rust. And maybe oiled? Or maybe put into little magic sleeves which wick away moisture? What's the deal there? What's best?

Actually, I must have lied about this being one bonus question because I haven't even gotten to the question yet.

On some of the videos I've watched I've seen guys honing razors or doing various things to the SR. Periodically during the process they wipe the razor off with a towel. It looks like a pretty casual wipe to me.

Doesn't that damage the edge? Seems to me it would unless there's a technique to the towel use, a technique which isn't explained and escapes me. What am I missing here?

How do you dry the SR, and wipe it off between steps of honing and such without ruining the edge?

Thanks for any help, gentlemen.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[KellyG]

Well, I can't answer your questions, but I'm sure interested in the answers.

 

[Seveneighth]

You can get away with cheaper leather on a paddle strop and if you practise your stropping less likely to nick them. Practise with a butter knife on your thigh first.

So those bench and pale steps are a good way to start.

I used homemade paddle strops when I started, partly because in those days hanging steps weren't around and it was pre Internet. I used neatsfoot to bring up the draw on cheap leather. Never been a major fan of canvas. Use it these days, but I used to stick with pasted leather. Would use a leather strop with a jeweller's finishing rouge - the fine white or Tripoli, and then finish on plain leather. For refreshing the blade I kept another with the abrasive jeweller's cutting compound.

These days I use CrOx, FerOx, and a jeweller's finishing paste.

I still use a paddle strop to finish on, because of the feedback. It's how I judge if the blade is ready to shave.

If you want to go the whole way, check out :
Newbie Honing Compendium

Kind of fiddly to set up but straightforward to use and gets great results.

 

[Seveneighth]

For carbon steel blades I wipe them with Renaissance wax, wipe it off, and then oil with razor oil. For stainless, I just use the wax.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

For carbon steel blades I wipe them with Renaissance wax, wipe it off, and then oil with razor oil. For stainless, I just use the wax.

So those bench and pale steps are a good way to start.

Is there some special way of wiping it off that doesn't dull the edge? When I look at videos the wiping looks so casual.

Thanks for the tips so far, too, but, in the first of your posts I don't know what "So those bench and pale steps are a good way to start" means. Not a clue.

Oh, I've read the Newbie Honing Compendium and multiple other honing and lapping posts and threads. Fascinating. Still, I figure not to too much put the cart before the horse. Shave and get good at it. Strop and get good at it. Then, learn to hone. At least that's what I read. I know zero.

To me it also seems important to have some idea what's down the road in terms of maintenance, honing, etc. if I'm thinking of jumping intp this SR rabbit hole. I've also got to find out if I can make the Feather SS barber razor shave me well enough (which means ATG on my neck which has so far eluded my hands and skills). No reason to buy a SR if I can't go in the right direction with the Feather SS (which I can with my DE and SE razors).

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[GearNoir]

Soft towels are what I use, like microfiber or terry cloth. I wipe the spine and it’s conjoined 3/4 of the blade with the cloth in a gentle thumb/pointer finger pinch; then I lay the cloth flat on the meat of my palm and do only a couple light strops each side, spine leading. You can do the same without the cloth on the meat of your palm.

Good stropping on proper leather/canvas will carry you a long way in maintaining your edge and dry your blade perfectly each time.

I used my first SR for well over a month of shaves, only stropping it, before needing to use a balsa strop.

The only real disadvantages the Feather system has from a real SR (besides a disposable blade) is the thickness of the holder and the slight lip near the edge. Lack of those things make SRs (some) a bit more maneuverable and adept at really tiny detail work, otherwise the shavette for most folks will do exactly what the SR will do.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Soft towels are what I use, like microfiber or terry cloth. I wipe the spine and it’s conjoined 3/4 of the blade with the cloth in a gentle thumb/pointer finger pinch; then I lay the cloth flat on the meat of my palm and do only a couple light strops each side, spine leading. You can do the same without the cloth on the meat of your palm.

Good stropping on proper leather/canvas will carry you a long way in maintaining your edge and dry your blade perfectly each time.

I used my first SR for well over a month of shaves, only stropping it, before needing to use a balsa strop.

The only real disadvantages the Feather system has from a real SR (besides a disposable blade) is the thickness of the holder and the slight lip near the edge. Lack of those things make SRs (some) a bit more maneuverable and adept at really tiny detail work, otherwise the shavette for most folks will do exactly what the SR will do.

Thank you. Very easy to understand description of what you do. Very helpful to me.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Seveneighth]

As ever @GearNoir speaks a lot of sense. You should follow his straight shave journal.

My routine is kind of old fashioned and some guys here would probably pour scorn on it. I am not of the school that tries to keep the razor dry or strop before AND after a shave. I have always stuck with RESTING the edge, stropping as little as possible and disturbing it as little as possible. If I am honing I am less concerned until I get to the finishing stages, so I am happy to wipe between the early stages of honing.

For a blade that is shave ready that I am maintaining:

Before a regular shave (no refresh needed)
1) Wipe excess oil from the blade, avoiding the edge.
2) Strop on canvas and plain leather
or
2b) Strop on a finishing paste (Tripoli or something light), wipe spine and face only and then strop on leather.
3) Shave. When I am shaving I do NOT wipe the blade but rinse under running water.
4) After the shave, rinse then on a towel laid flat I lightly strop a few times to clean and dry. N.B. this is not a real strop, just using the stropping motion.
5) Wipe the blade and tang with renaissance wax using a soft duster. then wipe of. I do with minute pressure and always in the direction of the edge.
6) Apply Camellia or mineral oil to the blade face or tang and spread with finger tip.

The point here with the finishing paste is not the same as using CrOx, FerOx or diamond paste. I use a paste that will add shine to the bevel without cutting it and to add a little extra resistance than plain leather. I just like stropping on leather more than canvas. Actually a leather strop heavily dressed with strop balm probably has the same effect.

For a blade needing paste refresh: CrOx, FerOx, finish then to leather. Sometimes I use two grades of CrOx. The only issue here is wiping between each strop so as not to contaminate the following strop. But... this is why I like this method. I have found that these pastes, unlike diamond pastes don't cause too many contamination problems. A bit of Tripoli on my final strop is no biggie. When I remove paste I wipe the spine / face but not the edge. I then lay a duster flat on a surface and strop once in each direction.

For a blade needing a refresh on a stone I have recently changed to a natural stone with oil (either a Charnley Forest or a Llyn Idwal). I really like this because it means I disturb the edge even less. I can take the razor straight out of storage with oil on it and use it directly on the stone. Then I move to the pasted leather. Again, I remove the oil from the spine and face but not the edge. A find a bit of oil on the leather is good for it.

In this way I have very very little interaction with the edge except when actually shaving, stropping, or honing.

Using The Method (linked to above) works because you are actively correcting any imperfections (so you don't have to be so careful as I am - you don't need to rest the edge, you don't need to avoid the edge because each subsequent step improves on the previous) - BUT... you have to be precise. I'm not great on precision and like a little flexibility which is why the method that I use works for me. I also really enjoy the feedback from leather. It kind of tells me how the blade might behave on skin. It might be superstitious hoodoo about resting the blade, but, hey, that's what works for me. YMMV.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Wonderful reply. Most of it makes perfect sense. A few places don't (to me), so I'll ask a few questions if that's okay.

As ever @GearNoir speaks a lot of sense. You should follow his straight shave journal.

I've begun following him, and will figure out which of his posts are in his journal. Thanks for the tip on the journal.

My routine is kind of old fashioned and some guys here would probably pour scorn on it. I am not of the school that tries to keep the razor dry or strop before AND after a shave. I have always stuck with RESTING the edge, stropping as little as possible and disturbing it as little as possible. If I am honing I am less concerned until I get to the finishing stages, so I am happy to wipe between the early stages of honing.

For a blade that is shave ready that I am maintaining:

Before a regular shave (no refresh needed)
1) Wipe excess oil from the blade, avoiding the edge.
2) Strop on canvas and plain leather
or
2b) Strop on a finishing paste (Tripoli or something light), wipe spine and face only and then strop on leather.
3) Shave. When I am shaving I do NOT wipe the blade but rinse under running water.
4) After the shave, rinse then on a towel laid flat I lightly strop a few times to clean and dry. N.B. this is not a real strop, just using the stropping motion.
5) Wipe the blade and tang with renaissance wax using a soft duster. then wipe of. I do with minute pressure and always in the direction of the edge.
6) Apply Camellia or mineral oil to the blade face or tang and spread with finger tip.

Questions.

1. How do you decide on #2 or #3 above?
2. Why do you use both renaissance wax and Camellia or mineral oil?
3. What is a soft duster?
4. In #6 you do spread the oil over the edge with your finger tip, right?

Sorry for being so slow to understand. There's so much new to me.

Also, are you saying that some guys don't rinse the blade? You rinse, and they do what? Wipe it? Why not rinse it while shaving, and the dry it afterwards as you do? I don't get why anyone wouldn't rinse the blade during use? Not being critical here, just ignorant.

The point here with the finishing paste is not the same as using CrOx, FerOx or diamond paste. I use a paste that will add shine to the bevel without cutting it and to add a little extra resistance than plain leather. I just like stropping on leather more than canvas. Actually a leather strop heavily dressed with strop balm probably has the same effect.

For a blade needing paste refresh: CrOx, FerOx, finish then to leather.

I don't know what you mean by "finish then to?" Particularly "finish." I assume "then to" means going to the strop, but what does finish mean?

Sometimes I use two grades of CrOx. The only issue here is wiping between each strop so as not to contaminate the following strop. But... this is why I like this method. I have found that these pastes, unlike diamond pastes don't cause too many contamination problems. A bit of Tripoli on my final strop is no biggie. When I remove paste I wipe the spine / face but not the edge. I then lay a duster flat on a surface and strop once in each direction.

I don't know what the duster is, but if I assume it's like a feather duster are you saying you strop on the feather duster when the duster is one the surface? Each direction? Does that mean in the direction of the edge and in the direction of the spine? Or, both sides of the blade in the direction of the spine?

Again, sorry for not catching on more quickly.

For a blade needing a refresh on a stone I have recently changed to a natural stone with oil (either a Charnley Forest or a Llyn Idwal). I really like this because it means I disturb the edge even less. I can take the razor straight out of storage with oil on it and use it directly on the stone. Then I move to the pasted leather. Again, I remove the oil from the spine and face but not the edge. A find a bit of oil on the leather is good for it.

In this way I have very very little interaction with the edge except when actually shaving, stropping, or honing.

Using The Method (linked to above) works because you are actively correcting any imperfections (so you don't have to be so careful as I am - you don't need to rest the edge, you don't need to avoid the edge because each subsequent step improves on the previous) - BUT... you have to be precise. I'm not great on precision and like a little flexibility which is why the method that I use works for me. I also really enjoy the feedback from leather. It kind of tells me how the blade might behave on skin. It might be superstitious hoodoo about resting the blade, but, hey, that's what works for me. YMMV.

I don't have a good understanding yet of The Method although I'm reading about it. If I understand what you're saying here what you're doing is not The Method at all, but it allows you to keep your blade sharp with minimal interaction between you and the edge.

I know I will return to this post many times in an effort to really understand it and how it is a method totally unlike The Method, but also effective.

Much appreciated, and happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Clay S]

Wonderful reply. Most of it makes perfect sense. A few places don't (to me), so I'll ask a few questions if that's okay.

Also, are you saying that some guys don't rinse the blade? You rinse, and they do what? Wipe it? Why not rinse it while shaving, and the dry it afterwards as you do? I don't get why anyone wouldn't rinse the blade during use? Not being critical here, just ignorant.

Jim

They don't want to hit it on the facet or sink. Makes more sense to you if you wear glasses.

 

[Seveneighth]

Wonderful reply. Most of it makes perfect sense. A few places don't (to me), so I'll ask a few questions if that's okay.



I've begun following him, and will figure out which of his posts are in his journal. Thanks for the tip on the journal.



Questions.

1. How do you decide on #2 or #3 above?
2. Why do you use both renaissance wax and Camellia or mineral oil?
3. What is a soft duster?
4. In #6 you do spread the oil over the edge with your finger tip, right?

Sorry for being so slow to understand. There's so much new to me.

Also, are you saying that some guys don't rinse the blade? You rinse, and they do what? Wipe it? Why not rinse it while shaving, and the dry it afterwards as you do? I don't get why anyone wouldn't rinse the blade during use? Not being critical here, just ignorant.



I don't know what you mean by "finish then to?" Particularly "finish." I assume "then to" means going to the strop, but what does finish mean?



I don't know what the duster is, but if I assume it's like a feather duster are you saying you strop on the feather duster when the duster is one the surface? Each direction? Does that mean in the direction of the edge and in the direction of the spine? Or, both sides of the blade in the direction of the spine?

Again, sorry for not catching on more quickly.



I don't have a good understanding yet of The Method although I'm reading about it. If I understand what you're saying here what you're doing is not The Method at all, but it allows you to keep your blade sharp with minimal interaction between you and the edge.

I know I will return to this post many times in an effort to really understand it and how it is a method totally unlike The Method, but also effective.

Much appreciated, and happy shaves,

Jim

Why not wipe in between strokes?
I like to keep my blade wet. I find it helps with the slickness of the lather. I also like to avoid going anywhere near the edge except when stropping, honing or shaving. I find rinsing under the faucet more than enough. Years ago I would fill the sink with water and waggle the razor in it, but I kept accidentally catching the spine on the sink enamel. Eventually the glaze cracked. My other half was not amused. If you want to save water then by all means wipe. Either pinch the blade from behind the spine and pull the razor through - as @GearNoir says a microfibre cloth is good, or lay the cloth on your palm and lightly strop.

Rinsing - I have read some guys say they just wipe to save water. Take a look at the Lynn Abrams video on learning to straight shave. He is fastidious about keeping the razor dry. Look at a video by gssixguns and you will see he is not so fussed - he even says so. I am more in the gssixguns camp and I like to avoid the risk messing with the edge at all.

How do you decide on #2 or #3 above?

Do you mean when do I refresh with pastes / stone or how do I decide between canvas and leather?

Canvas and Leather: mainly just a whim but in truth I tend to add canvas as an extra step when I am unhappy with the final honing or the edge is just starting to pull.

For a decision to refresh on paste or stone, you can tell because the razor starts to pull even once you have stropped it. I use the final paddle strop though. I keep it well dressed with strop balm. If the draw of the strop tugs a lot and I have to put too much pressure to strop I know it isn't ready to shave. If I continue to strop and it doesn't loosen I take to paste. Repeat on the final strop again, if the paste hasn't worked then I take it to a stone. Now there are shades of grey in this, and the decision is not binary. It depends on the metal the razor is made from and the grind (the draw is different) and there are degrees of shave ready and different types of edges. I adjust my shaving slightly depending on how the razor behaves on that final strop. Sorry to be vague. Just describing what I do. My advice: get in touch with how the razor feels on the strop. Experiment with pastes with a razor that has previously shaved and isn't now. Take note of how a razor that shaves well feels on the strop vs. a razor that is uncomfortable.

These days I have also introduced a small 60x loupe from the bay - they are only about $5. The have a light on them, and I check out the scratch patterns on the bevel. What I see on the blade corresponds to how the blade performs on the final strop. There are some exceptions but I won't go into those. Look on Youtube for videos showing magnification of razor edges, and you'll quickly get a sense of what you are looking for.

Why do you use both renaissance wax and Camellia or mineral oil?

Because I am paranoid. LOL.
Seriously - back in the day I just used oil. Even then the jimps would discolour and I still got a little spotting on the face. A UK razor maker tipped me off to Renaissance Wax - although he only uses it for storage I think. I feel like the wax coat protects any spot missed by the oil. But you have to wipe it well, because it's a major pain if you let a thick layer dry.

What is a soft duster?
Sorry - UK term, a yellow soft rag for dusting round the house - a micro fibre cloth would work

In #6 you do spread the oil over the edge with your finger tip, right? Yes. I am sure someone will pop up and say this is the wrong thing to do - acid from your finger or some such. I just feel I can get a lighter touch that way.

I run the nozzle of the oil along the face of the blade than run my finger along to spread it out being careful not to put any pressure on the blade edge to affect it. but trying to spread it right to the edge.


"Finish" - sorry using my own jargon. A jewellers finishing paste. A very very light paste that will polish without being too abrasive. When I used to shave, I knew nothing about shaving supplies, online retailers etc. etc. I used the razors I was given, and I learnt using jewellers rouges. These range from cutting compounds to polishing compounds and are graded based on the metals you want to polish. For these finishing pastes I tend to use a paste that is a little light for steel with the intent to create friction rather than polish out scratch patterns. This is probably a bit perverse.

This isn't a method like THE METHOD which is precise and has clear instructions and which I and others have tried and works if you follow it prescriptively. This is just how I prefer to get my razors shave ready. I am just trying to give some alternatives here, because straight shaving is personal and there are loads of ways to maintain and use a straight razor and what works for someone might not work for you, and I hope you would feel you have lots of options and ways to experiment.

BTW, with the METHOD you will get consistent results every time if you follow it exactly. I really like it for stainless steel. If you enjoy the edge on a Feather SS, then a Boker stainless razor sharpened using THE METHOD will give you an edge that feels very similar. So will a synthetic progression, but that is more costly and problematic to learn.



OK I'm rambling now... I hope something is helpful above and I haven't confused matters too much.

 

[Seveneighth]

If you want to try these kinds of pastes, you don't have to use Jeweller's rouges. You could also try:

1) A good 0.5 micron Chromium oxide paste (make sure it is specified)
2) The Dovo (or other Solingen branded) Red and black pastes in crayon form - in the small red box.
3) White strop paste - the Dovo one is OK
4) either Neatsfoot oil or Dovo strop balm.

For jewellers rouges, the Dialux brand is pretty good.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Why not wipe in between strokes?.....Etc...OK I'm rambling now... I hope something is helpful above and I haven't confused matters too much.

Not rambling a bit. You answered my questions and cleared up my confusion. I appreciate it so much.

I have no idea what I'll end up doing. I'm in the early learning stage (as is probably obvious) and your information is extremely helpful to me.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[GearNoir]

Great into @Seveneighth!

Note that I only wipe the blade post shave, I do rinse the blade while shaving. If you don’t want to risk rinsing, or wish to save water, there are a good number of gentlemen who use a giant, soft wet sponge to lightly wipe the blade between strokes. I believe Chimensch models this in his 30th anniversary video.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Great into @Seveneighth!

Note that I only wipe the blade post shave, I do rinse the blade while shaving. If you don’t want to risk rinsing, or wish to save water, there are a good number of gentlemen who use a giant, soft wet sponge to lightly wipe the blade between strokes. I believe Chimensch models this in his 30th anniversary video.

I rinse my DE and SE razors frequently during my shaves, always under running tap water which I turn on and off to rinse them. Somehow the idea of a wet sponge or a sink filled with water doesn't appeal to me. I suppose I could use a pail or something of that sort and dip my razor, but I'm okay with running a bit of water.

I wondered if not rinsing (and instead wiping) had something to do with preserving the blade from rust. It didn't make sense to me that it did, and I see it's more of a conservation issue (including conservation of the razor's edge, and perhaps the sink's finish).

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Seveneighth]

I rinse my DE and SE razors frequently during my shaves, always under running tap water which I turn on and off to rinse them. Somehow the idea of a wet sponge or a sink filled with water doesn't appeal to me. I suppose I could use a pail or something of that sort and dip my razor, but I'm okay with running a bit of water.

I wondered if not rinsing (and instead wiping) had something to do with preserving the blade from rust. It didn't make sense to me that it did, and I see it's more of a conservation issue (including conservation of the razor's edge, and perhaps the sink's finish).

Happy shaves,

Jim

Llyn Abrams talks about not getting the handle wet especially inside because you can't get it fully dried and it corrodes both the blade and damages the scales. He's handled and restored more razors that I've dreamt about so I defer to his greater experience.

On the other hand, ebony, horn and straight plastic are pretty water resistant. I've heard that micarta picks up water stains easily. I only have one but haven't noticed that.

I used to work for a chemicals company and they used demo how their lubricants disperse water. I feel that a good covering of oil on the blade and joint should protect the blade inside the handle and wooden scales.

Look how this guy oils the razor at the end :

Renaissance wax works well on scales as well.

 

[MilkCrate]

Jim, congrats on the new journey. I am also in the early learning stages, so I don’t have anything of value to add. However, I am subscribed to your thread.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Check this out...

Not cheap or anything, but I like it. Link. It's a loom strop made to be used on a table top.

This page, linked, suggests that a board strop, such as theirs, pictured above, 3 inches by 10 inches, is the way to go for a beginner.

"When buying your first strop your best bet is the board strop, why? It's 3" wide and nice and flat, but also keep in mind that you could nick or cut your first strop when learning so better to cut a $30 strop than a $100 strop! Trust me, we have all cut our first strop..."​

It's advice I've heard elsewhere, but is it good advice? I don't know, but it makes sense. What do you think?

They also have things to say about their product selection process and other strops.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I will watch the video tonight.

L. Abrams talks about not getting the handle wet especially inside because you can't get it fully dried...Renaissance wax works well on scales as well.

I ordered some about 30 seconds before reading your post.

I'm going to put it on the wooden scales of my Feather barber razor first. I know the scales are resinated, but the wax won't hurt if used properly.

Interesting information about the various scales. I'd not considered that.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Jim, congrats on the new journey. I am also in the early learning stages, so I don’t have anything of value to add. However, I am subscribed to your thread.

Cool. We'll see where it goes. It's hard to not buy something (right now), but I'm holding my horses and learning.

Something like a $200 razor when that's not what I need.

Happy shaves,

Jim