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Dry? Shaving Journal

Shave No. N/A

Towel Used: Yes

All Passes: Consistent, good quality lather

Result: BBS/DFS. Not as close as with the iKon, but read on...

Notes: I forgot until the reminder popped up on my phone yesterday afternoon, I had a test scheduled for 8:00am this morning, with an hour and half commute to get the testing location. So, desiring no issues on a quick shave, I switched to my trusty '57 Red Tip SS loaded with a Baili Platinum blade. I still used the same brush, soap, and method. No nicks, no irritation, BBS in all the usual places, DFS in all the usual places. The blade is a strange mix of smooth and mild. It didn't cut quite as close as an Astra SP or the Personna Lab I'm using, but the shave feel was very similar to the Astra. It made for a pretty smooth shave. For being one of the cheapest DE blade on the US market, it's a pretty solid blade. I won't lie, it was nice to get a break from the Lab today :) And a nice shave it was!
 
Shave No. 3

Towel Used: No

All passes: Consistent ideal lather.

Results: Pretty close to BBS all over

Notes: I paid a little extra attention on the clean up pass today, which left me with more or less a BBS all over. I had one little nick on the second pass in the hollow of my neck. And the clean up pass left me with a bit of fleeting irritation on my jaw/low cheek. Both subsided with the subsequent rinse. I'm left with a very comfortable, very smooth shave today.
 
Shave No. 4

Towel Used: Yes

All Passes: Thick consistent lather.

Results: 100% BBS

Notes: Today, I used longer, swifter, lighter strokes (read shaved much faster haha) and was rewarded with a comfortable shave. At the end of the third pass, I had no nicks, no irritation, and I didn't really need to go for the cleanup. But for the sake of consistency, I did the cleanup. That brought me to a very nice and easy BBS (vs. yesterday required some extra attention). But I did a bonehead thing, and not having any caffeine in my blood yet, my brain didn't react until it was too late. The last stroke from my chin up the topside of my jawline was swift, yet not light. I had some weepers because of that.

I applied a bit of alum after the WH, which actually wasn't terribly uncomfortable. In spite of the error, I'm still rubbing a completely smooth and soothed mug. I thought I was going to report I had mastered the method this morning... I counted my chickens before they hatched. But seeing as it's the 4th shave on this blade and I got a pretty good comfortable shave up until the motor skill malfunction, I'll say I've made a lot of progress.
 
@sskim3 for this test, I keep everything the same, no rotation, just to isolate variables as much as possible.

My normal routine is rotate everything, every day haha I have shaving ADD...
 
@1Cal Thanks Cal!

Have you tried it at all yet? For my part, I'll say paying more attention to what I'm doing and documenting the results has really increased my savvy with regard to lathering. I should've done this back in '13 when I started DE.

My first shavette is arriving today. I'm thinking after this is over, I'm going to up the experiment a tad, see where it takes me. At that point I'll switch off to a better soap, I'm not sure Arko is the best product for the task.
 
Have you tried it at all yet? For my part, I'll say paying more attention to what I'm doing and documenting the results has really increased my savvy with regard to lathering. I should've done this back in '13 when I started DE.
Yes! I've been playing around with it and am getting a great education by reading (your thread) and doing. :thumbsup:
My first shavette is arriving today. I'm thinking after this is over, I'm going to up the experiment a tad, see where it takes me. At that point I'll switch off to a better soap, I'm not sure Arko is the best product for the task.
Let's know how you get on with the shavette. I really love the double edged stuff and don't intend breaking away any time soon. But talking of shavettes, here's my devette:
upload_2017-4-24_21-42-37.png

I've given it one shot "dry." I think for "dry" to be most effective one needs to use a razor with a closed comb guard.

Mind you, I'm speaking from my perspective. My shaves are predominantly steep angle (riding the guard).

So far I found my most efficient "dry" shave was with an aggressive razor with a closed comb guard (scraping the lather off before the blade makes contact). Next in line "dry" was an open comb razor, due to it leaving a good bit of lather prior to the blade making contact. My "No Guard" (devette), although a VERY efficient razor in its own right, came in as the least efficient using the "dry" system (due to all the lather being in place prior to the blade making contact I guess).

Well, there you have my two cents. :laugh:
 
@1Cal I am now $0.02 richer haha

I've seen you post that beast on other threads. I'm not gonna lie, it kinda scares me...lol. I would definitely have to do some skin stretching to get through a shave. I guess I do some stretching with my R41 and iKon SB too though. The SB is absolutely not to be brought anywhere near the adam's apple, and only very gingerly over the jawline. The blade guard is mostly decorative...

My plan with the shavette was to bowl lather <gasp! I know!> and use some PSO, I'll probably just use some straight castor oil for the sake of convenience. Bowl lather so that I can apply it good and wet without scrubbing all the oil out of the pores.
 
Shave No. 5

Towel Used: No

All passes: Reasonably consistent. I loaded a lot of soap today but perhaps just a tad less than in previous days. Combined with the fact that the first pass rinse left my face very very wet and it wouldn't be faithful to the experiment to squeegee water off my face, it degraded the lather a bit. It held constant through the rest of the shave.

Results: BBS/DFS. Under my chin is just a tad shy of BBS

Notes: Tomorrow I'm using the shavette! It was calling to me this morning, "Just the first pass. C'mon, who would I tell??" I managed to resist.

I'm not sure exactly the cause, but I had a number of very minor nicks across my cheek today in roughly the same area as yesterday. I think it may have been a trifecta of residual unhealed skin from the goof yesterday, somewhat substandard lather on the later passes, and a stainless blade on its 5th shave. They abated with the cold rinse, so I didn't use any alum. And I don't feel any irritation right now, so it's still not a bad shave, all things considered.
 
Notes: Tomorrow I'm using the shavette! It was calling to me this morning, "Just the first pass. C'mon, who would I tell??" I managed to resist.
:whistling: I do know that shavettes are much sharper than straights Glenn. Have you used straights before?

BTW, I only know that from reading, not experience. Good luck! (And don't do "dry." :w00t:)
 
@1Cal Haha... well tomorrow iiiiis a dry day...

No, I've never really used a straight. I bought a $5 straight and tried to grind it before honing it using my belt sander. I was good enough not to spoil the temper, but grinding didn't go so well overall, I cut way too much off the spine. Turns out a belt sander is a little too aggressive for spine correction and bevel-setting haha... The blade was a little warped too, so I eventually relegated it to utility knife status.

Did I get it HHT sharp in spite of all that? Yep. Did I take it to the face? Yep. Did it give a good shave? Nope.

But I didn't gut myself. Didn't even irritate myself. I've used hand tools in wood working most of my life. I'm pretty good for a light touch when needed. I'm just going to try my best not to be too sheepish about it. With the '11 R41, I found my worst shaves were when I was overly cautious. A certain degree of confidence seems to steady my hand, even if its unwarranted...
 
Razor: PAK Delicate 606 shavette (Pass 1 & 2)/C1 Gillette SS Red Tip (Pass 3)

Blade: Astra SP #1/Baili Platinum #2 (respectively)

Soap: Sterling Soap Co. Barbershop Scent

1st Pass: Lather was prepared a little on the wet side based on advice in the SR forum. I don't know that this is necessary for me. Tomorrow I'm going to try with standard lathering. WTG pass was smooth as glass. No issues with the corners of the blade scratching. It was kind of strange feeling, but one of the most comfortable WTG passes I've ever had using an Astra. Astra is a smooth blade for me, but in a DE it's typically just a tad bit mild for my whiskers (read tugs the whiskers). Cleaning out under the nose was a little shaky, but no issues, comfortable. The hollows of my neck were difficult to get into. Over-stretching my skin, I already know from DE experience, causes weepers. I ended up probably shaving a little too much in those areas. One weeper on the right side.

2nd Pass: Lather was considerably thinner. I did that on purpose, just on what I've read other people experiencing. Lesson learned, just shave how you know how to shave. Very very mild irritation cropped up here and there. Under the chin, where my whiskers are toughest, I found it difficult to shave without applying pressure. This may be another job for Feather. A little re-lather, and patience, and I got through it. No nicks or weepers this pass. But it was considerably less comfortable than the first. I'm going to point to the overworked lather as the cause. On rinsing, I did notice I had a lot of area of BBS.

3rd Pass: Going against good advice and doing two passes instead of just one with the shavette while learning didn't reward me with anything really wonderful except maybe a shorter learning curve. So I loaded a little more soap and lathered up for a final pass with the SS. That platinum blade today was not terribly uncomfortable, but man it chewed me up. It could be the lather, it could be the fallout from the ATG pass with the shavette, or it could be a combo. I'm not going to blast the blades yet. But I did open up several weepers and locate a small whitehead under my nose that had somehow evaded the shavette lol

Results: BBS/CCS. My trouble spots are just a CCS today, I didn't go for the cleanup pass. All things considered, my first shavette shave achieved better results than my first DE shave (measured after the second pass for the shavette, third pass for the DE), which impresses me regarding the capability of the razor. And I'm pleased to have no legitimate nicks or cuts. There may be hope for me yet!

Post-Shave: The cold rinse cleared up all the irritation and weepers. The WH didn't give much of a tingle. And the Sterling soap just has a very nice post-shave feel. No tightness, no dryness. Very good.
 
@1Cal Thanks Cal! There were a couple of moments where the closer the blade got to my face, the more my hand shook. I had to rest a couple of time to get the shake out. Hopefully, that'll get better with practice... Otherwise, it was fun.

I'll say it was easier, and felt somewhat friendlier than shaving with the 2011 R41 or the iKon SB. Much less weight to manage and much better balance in the shavette which allows a pretty easy feather-light touch for the most part. After seeing that devette, if you're curious, I wouldn't hesitate. Just use a blade that you know is friendly. PolSilver would probably be a good one. They're too mild for me, but I found them to be smooth and comfortable like Astra SP.

I can also see the potential that others have realized in terms of aggression. Applying just a touch of pressure brought on irritation, and it's tempting to do, particularly ATG, because the thing is such a lightweight.

I think I'm going to give it one more shot tomorrow before rotating on. Get the side-by-side with the two methods.
 
I'll say it was easier, and felt somewhat friendlier than shaving with the 2011 R41 or the iKon SB. Much less weight to manage and much better balance in the shavette which allows a pretty easy feather-light touch for the most part. After seeing that devette, if you're curious, I wouldn't hesitate. Just use a blade that you know is friendly. PolSilver would probably be a good one. They're too mild for me, but I found them to be smooth and comfortable like Astra SP.
That's interesting Glenn.
I did a four week "getting to know you" run with my Phoenix Bakelite Open Comb Slant:
upload_2017-4-26_19-26-20.png

All 16 grams of it! When I moved on to my other razors I noticed that my technique had improved NOTICEABLY. IMO this has to do with getting the pressure just right, something you HAVE to do with a lightweight. (Obviously I'm talking about DEs here.)

When you say Polsilver are too mild for you... what would be "unmild"? i.e. which blades come into your "unmild" category please?
 
When you say Polsilver are too mild for you... what would be "unmild"? i.e. which blades come into your "unmild" category please?

I'm probably way out on the spectrum of tough-beard, tough-skin, from what I've read over the years.

Ideal blades:

Feather, all of em

Blades I like, but a little on the mild side:

Astra SP
PolSilver SI
Gillette 7 O'Clock Yellow
Gillette 7 O'Clock Green

Blades I can use in a pinch:

PermaSharp Super
Sharp Durablade
Dorco ST-301
Dorco ST-300
Shark Hi-Stainless
Personna Lab
GSB

Blades that are too mild, don't work for me:

Derby
Lord
Wilkinson Sword
Nacet

I can't remember all the blades I tried. There should be about 45 on the list assigned to one of these categories. I think I find most blades I can use okay, but are not ideal for me. Platinum and PTFE coated blades tend to be smoother and more forgiving, even if they're too mild. Uncoated stainless blades have to be absolutely sharp or they cause me little nicks. I won't call them weepers because to me a weeper is what happens when you bear too much pressure and accidentally shave some skin off. Mild stainless will just kind of pluck up a tiny little nick that bleeds a bit, which is what you've been reading on my journal here. I used to get them all the time with cartridges.

With the second and third tier of blades on my list, if I truly apply zero pressure under my chin, even with stretching, it takes probably 5-6 passes to clear the stubble. 2 passes in each direction. The blade will actually skip over the whiskers without cutting them. That's where more aggressive razors do a better job for me. But it's still not a really great shave. And with super aggressive razors, a milder blade runs the risk of chattering over the stubble. That's on account of too much flex in the blade. The 2011 R41 was terrible for that, I traded it for a 2013. Way too much flex in the blade. It never cut me, but it's a little unnerving when it happens. I guess the blessing amid the curse in that regard is that the density and coarseness of my whiskers actually armor my skin when the blade jumps like that. I'm guessing that's why it never bit me.
 
Towel Used: No

The Gear: Shavette/Astra SP #2 + Merkur 34C/Astra SP #1

Soap Used: WCS Citrus Basil

All Passes: Lather was thick and ideal. I like the WCS soaps, they lather like crazy. The same load I did for Sterling yesterday yielded about 3x the lather today. I started it on my hand and finished it on my face in order to leave the lion's share of lather on my hand to be dropped back on the brush for subsequent passes.

Results: A very comfortable 99.5% BBS shave. DFS in a small portion of my trouble areas. I didn't need a cleanup pass; I'm getting better with the shavette.

Notes: I'm just flat out impressed with this little shavette. I had a goof at the top of my cheek which left me with morse code tattoo (dot dash). I bore a bit of pressure on accident, that was the cause. Not a slip or anything. That was the only legitimate nick, but it didn't really bleed much, and it was on the first pass and didn't cause any problem with the next two passes. Other than that, I had a few weepers around my chin, but nothing serious or persistent. I have to rethink my strategy in terms of directions on each pass. Going directly against the grain like I typically do with DE didn't work. Hence the weepers. But I shifted to a diagonal from jaw to lip and that worked really well.

For the third pass, I was surprised and impressed to find that the 34C, which is a close shaver for me, did absolutely nothing on my chin. The shavette cleaned everything up closer to the skin than I'm able to get with the 34C. I confirmed this visually after the rinse, I normally have a Fred Flintstone shadow after shaving, particularly on my chin, even when it's smooth. My chin was whiter than normal. Wonderful! And to only have a couple of weepers, I know I can fix that with practice. This little shavette may become my go-to.

Oh and in the hollows of my neck, I've never gotten such a close shave on the second pass. I can do as well with the R41 or iKon SB, but not as comfortably, and not on the second pass. I'm hooked, this thing rocks!
 
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