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Dremel = Open Comb?

I have a few Mühle R89s, and I wish there was an open comb.

Would taking a Dremel to the baseplate help (open up the slots), or would it not remove enough metal depth-wise? If I go too deep, I risk cutting through the safety bar. I made the measurements and everything looks good; I'm just seeing if anybody has tried it. I'm not worried about my technique with the Dremel, as I use it in knife mods almost daily.

Thanks for any input :)

EDIT: I see there are open comb baseplates available. I'd rather not order one because I have a spare R89 baseplate, and I won't cry if I mess it up.
 
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Before and after photos:
IMG_20220115_172342.jpg


Back side:
IMG_20220115_172355.jpg


And with the caps on...
IMG_20220115_172420.jpg



Not too much of a difference, but I'm not going to remove much more metal. I still need to smooth the cuts out and polish, but I think I'm done removing material.
We'll see how it shaves coarse beard hair tomorrow.
 
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These are definitely made of Zamac and "ARE" going to be worthless in less than 10 shaves as by the looks of the plate on the right, the corrosion has already started!! I'd never put that against my face!!!
If it is Zamak, what you are seeing in the photo is not rust, but copper, which needs to be applied in a thin coat to the Zamak in order for the nickel plating to stick.
 
If it is Zamak, what you are seeing in the photo is not rust, but copper, which needs to be applied in a thin coat to the Zamak in order for the nickel plating to stick.
As I mentioned, corrosion, not rust... Though it is possible that it could be the copper flash showing through Id doubt it as the copper isn't very thick when prepping for zinc.
 
These are definitely made of Zamac and "ARE" going to be worthless in less than 10 shaves as by the looks of the plate on the right, the corrosion has already started!! I'd never put that against my face!!!
I knew that I might ruin them by trying, and I can live with that.
Regarding the rust color on the photos... those were shot right after grinding. Before polishing. I believe what you're looking at is just debris left over from the grinding process, as all of that discoloration is gone now.
 
Yeah, do your best and then throw the abused razor out. Whereas I applaud your initiative and the "'what could happen" part...I have to say hmmm...what if?
 
Hopefully, your experiment will work, but I have my doubts. Most open comb razors are designed to hold the blade close to the lip of the top cap to make the blade more rigid. The R89 and many other safety bar designs hold the blade well back from the end of the cap.

If you look at the design of the Karve Chris Bradley razor you will see that it has been designed so that the top cap can be used with either an open comb or solid bar base plate. However, both hold the blade near the lip of the top cap. That is why the base plates can be interchanged.
 
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