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DownSouthShaver's Quest for Blade and Razor Perfection

I realized that I had been using other forums to keep notes on my blade and razor combinations, so I am creating this journal to assist with my new adventure into DE shaving. I plan to log all gear/products used so I can review them easily here, then decide on new combinations. Most here are well on their journey and have found their most effective setups, so my quest begins here.

For today's shave, I used the following:

Preshave: Proraso Blue
Soap: Speick
Brush: Omega boar
Razor: Henson AL13+ (with heavier aftermarket handle)
Blade: Shark Platinum (1)
Postshave: Alum block, Dickinson's WH
Aftershave: Aqua Velva Ice Blue

Generally speaking, this blade ranks very high on my list after the first use. No idea on longevity for this one, but I found the blade feel to be exceptionally smooth and the irritation level very low. Being a newbie, and very enamored with this new hobby, I often push for the perfect, glassy BBS feeling on my face and neck, so I tend to push with more passes and buffing than I should, primarily on my neck. While this blade may not be as efficient as a Nacet, the extra passes/buffing did not result in the burn that other blades have given me on my neck. I can obtain perfect BBS on my cheeks with no issues.

Aqua Velva Ice blue is my standard for measuring post-shave burn (as well as Fine American Blend), and the feedback was about a 5, so very good. I am also very pleased with the post shave feeling as I write this about two hours after my shave. I really like Russian Gillette blades, but have been looking for cheaper blade options, as well as ones that may not have availability issues in the future. The Shark Platinums certainly seem to check these boxes so far.

Speaking of cheaper options that surprised me, I put these Sharks in the same grouping as Treet 7 Days Platinum, Suneko, Lord Cool, India Wilkinson Sword and Treet Kings. The Kings didn't "wow" me as much as the others, but a very serviceable blade with above average results that I was happy with.

Just as a baseline, I consider these the top-tier blades that I have used so far which provide the sharpness and smoothness combo that I am looking for:

Gillette Platinum
GSB
Nacet
Permasharp
Suneko
Wizamet SI
Gillette 7 O'clock Black
Gillette 7 O'clock Yellows (Russia)
Rapira Platinum Lux
Personna Lab Blue
German Wilkinson Sword
India Wilkinson Sword
Personna Viking's Sword
Astra SP (Russia)
Astra SS (Russia)
Personna Red German
Personna Israeli Red
Personna Crystal
Treet 7 Days Platinum
Lord Cool
Dorco Prime

I have only one recent experience with Feathers, which was fine, but I am scared of them, LOL. I prefer a blade that will not punish me as bad if I make a small slip. Feathers are in a league of their own, but I will only be using one when I have ample time to concentrate on the shave, and when I just feel like changing things up.

I am really enjoying this journey so far. I welcome any suggestions or validations that other members may provide. This shaving community is great!!!
 
Today's shave is brought to you by:

Preshave: Proraso Blue
Soap: Cella Red
Brush: Parker badger
Razor: Henson AL13+
Blade: Derby Premium (1)
Postshave: Alum block, Dickinson's WH
Aftershave: Proraso Green
Rating: 9/10

Another day, another new blade. Staying in the Lord family with the Derby Premium. First few strokes were not nearly as smooth as the Shark Platinum yesterday, but it calmed down a little halfway through the first pass. Also more tuggy, but not uncomfortably so.

After two passes and touch ups on my neck (my problem area), there was considerable feedback with the alum block in the mustache area and entire neck. Feedback from the Proraso Green wasn't too bad, just a little stronger than normal.

A little more redness on the neck than usual, but here's what gets me, this is probably the closest I have ever gotten to BBS in all areas, including my neck. The post shave smoothness is incredible - rivals any top tier blade I have used, but a less comfortable shave overall with more irritation.

I have many other blades to try, but I will revisit this one later. Maybe the blade feel will calm down on subsequent uses. I have a Bic Astor ready to go for tomorrow, also a fist time try with it.
 
For today, we have the following:

Preshave: Proraso Blue
Soap: Tcheon Fung Sing
Brush: Omega Boar
Razor: Henson AL13+
Blade: Bic Astor (1)
Postshave: Alum block, Dickinson's WH
Aftershave: Gillette Cool Wave
Rating: 9.75/10

After the Derby Premium issues yesterday, this is more like it! The Bic Astor is a superior blade, both sharp and smooth. Not nearly the feedback with the alum block on the neck, and virtually no feedback elsewhere.

I also went back to the standard Henson handle, instead of the heavier aftermarket handle I had been using the last few days. Shave was not as close on my neck, but I am willing to sacrifice that for the lack of burn. I could have pushed for BBS more, but I am going to let my neck calm down for another day.

Also tried out two new products - TFS soap and Gillette Cool Wave AS. The TFS is very much like Cella, but a little stronger scent and maybe a little more slickness. I definitely like it. The Cool Wave AS is very good as well with a light citrus/fresh scent. Not as much alcohol sting as Fine or Aqua Velva, but it's there. I enjoy the sting, LOL.

Whether or not the heavier handle contributed to the irritation given by the Derby Premium on my last shave is not certain, but I am betting so. I think I prefer a light razor as I get better shaves from the Henson and my Schick Krona, with less irritation than the Rockwell 6c or Henson with the heavier handle. In any case, I don't think the Derbys will be getting a second audition as life is too short and there are too many better blades (for me) out there.

The final shave was a 9.75 out of 10, but the Bic Astor is a solid 10.
 
For today:

Preshave: Proraso Blue
Soap: Tcheon Fung Sing
Brush: Parker badger
Razor: Henson AL13+++
Blade: Bic Astor (2)
Postshave: Alum block, Dickinson's WH
Aftershave: Clubman Gent's Gin
Rating: 9.9/10

Got a good deal from a B&B member for a Henson AL13 aggressive and it arrived yesterday, so was eager to use it today. Decided to go with the same soap and blade as yesterday to get a good comparison to the AL13 mild. Today's shave was excellent!

The Henson aggressive really didn't feel that much different, maybe a touch more blade feel, but very comfortable, and definitely more efficient. The Bic Astor was once again superb. Neck is much closer and I have low irritation there, although the alum block did sting a bit, but no sting elsewhere. Rating is a 9.9 due to a couple of small nicks on the mustache area, which was a combo of user error and unfamiliarity with the razor. But I am really liking the +++. The mild might get relegated to Feather blades.

Now I will have to go back through my favorite blades with the new razor. The journey continues, but it's fun.
 
Preshave: Proraso Blue
Soap: Proraso White
Brush: Omega Boar
Razor: Henson AL13+++
Blade: Personna Lab Blue (1)
Postshave: Alum block, Dickinson's WH
Aftershave: Clubman Citrus Musk
Rating: 9.9/10

The Personna Lab Blue is one of those blades that approaches perfection for me. It's so sharp and smooth that it's almost boring, but in a good way. I have had great results with it in my Schick Krona as well. The next time I use my Slim, it will be with this blade. I haven't perfected my technique with the Slim yet, so this one will serve as a control for future experiments with that beautiful piece of razor history.

9.9 only due to some neck irritation, but no fault on the blade's part. This one will always be in my den.
 
Preshave: Proraso Blue
Soap: Tcheon Fung Sing
Brush: Parker badger
Razor: Henson AL13+++
Blade: Lord Silver Star (2)
Postshave: Alum block, Dickinson's WH
Aftershave: Lustray Blue Spice
Rating: 9/10

So I had tried a Silver Star once before and saved the blade, so thought I would give it a go in the new Henson. It's a decent blade, but felt tuggy in spots and the feel just isn't as smooth as some. Since this blade already had one shave on it, I thought it might smooth out a little. I pushed for BBS on my neck, but could not achieve it. While this did not result in razor burn (which is a plus), it left quite a few red spots, similar to the Derby Premium I tried a few days ago. However, the post shave feel overall is nice and smooth.

The Silver Star seems to work for a lot of people here on B&B, but not so much for me. In the Lord family, I have tried the Extra, Platinum, Silver Star, Shark Platinum and Cool. I remember the Cool being very good, and the Shark Platinum was good (but behind the Cool), so I think I am done trying Lord blades for a while. For me, the Silver Star will work in a pinch, but I will not seek it out.

Related to other gear I used, the TFC soap continues to impress me. And the Lustray Blue Spice has a permanent place on my bathroom counter, love that stuff.
 
Preshave: Proraso Blue
Soap: Speick
Brush: Omega boar
Razor: Henson AL13+++
Blade: Gillette 7 O'Clock Super Stainless (Green, Russia)
Postshave: Alum block, Dickinson's WH
Aftershave: Aqua Velva Ice Blue
Rating: 9.25/10

Now we are getting back to a top-tier blade. This was my first go with the Gillette Super Stainless, and it is another great Russian blade. Sharp and smooth with nice blade feel. I also got way better stubble reduction on my problem neck areas. Alum feedback was less than with most blades, with very little redness on my neck. Feedback from the AV was also milder than normal.

Post shave feel is great, but an hour or so afterward, I feel that there are more bumps on my neck than usual. I guess I just have super-sensitive skin there. I really like the results of this blade, it's way better than the Silver Star. I may have to try something radical tomorrow like using the Henson +++ on the first pass, then switch to the + on subsequent passes. If I can just get my neck figured out, I would be set. I may just have to come to grips with the fact that my neck will never be as smooth as my face, or push for BBS with my electric razor. I will keep trying.
 

Eric_75

Not made for these times.
Now we are getting back to a top-tier blade. This was my first go with the Gillette Super Stainless, and it is another great Russian blade. Sharp and smooth with nice blade feel. I also got way better stubble reduction on my problem neck areas. Alum feedback was less than with most blades, with very little redness on my neck. Feedback from the AV was also milder than normal.
I think the Gillette 7 O'Clock Super Stainless was the first of the 7 O'Clock blades I ever used. I still enjoy them.
 
Preshave: Proraso Blue
Soap: Lea stick
Brush: Parker badger
Razor: Schick Krona
Blade: Rapira Platinum Lux (1)
Postshave: Alum block, Dickinson's WH
Aftershave: Gillette Cool Wave
Rating: 9.9/10

Decided to go with my vintage Schick Krona and a Rapira, and I am glad that I did. I finally figured out the optimal cutting angle for this razor and the first two passes were almost a Zen moment for me. I found that I need to feel like I am riding the cap on the Krona, and the results were spectacular. The Krona, with its low-profile head, really does provide great maneuverability. And that darn Rapira Platinum Lux is just so smooth, it might end up being my all-time favorite.

I really pushed for BBS on my neck again, and almost got it. This resulted in significant feedback from the alum block and the AS, but I don't care, LOL. Undoubtedly one of the closest shaves I have ever gotten. Now that I have figured this out, I will have to revisit two of my other favorite blades in this razor - the Permasharp and Nacet. I got significant nicks with the Nacet in the Krona previously, but hopefully my technique has improved which may provide different results.

Also revisted the Lea stick, which is excellent, and I am still digging the Gillette Cool Wave AS. Nice citrusy and fresh scent.
 
Today's shave is brought to you by:

Preshave: Proraso Blue
Soap: Cella Red
Brush: Parker badger
Razor: Henson AL13+
Blade: Derby Premium (1)
Postshave: Alum block, Dickinson's WH
Aftershave: Proraso Green
Rating: 9/10

Another day, another new blade. Staying in the Lord family with the Derby Premium. First few strokes were not nearly as smooth as the Shark Platinum yesterday, but it calmed down a little halfway through the first pass. Also more tuggy, but not uncomfortably so.

After two passes and touch ups on my neck (my problem area), there was considerable feedback with the alum block in the mustache area and entire neck. Feedback from the Proraso Green wasn't too bad, just a little stronger than normal.

A little more redness on the neck than usual, but here's what gets me, this is probably the closest I have ever gotten to BBS in all areas, including my neck. The post shave smoothness is incredible - rivals any top tier blade I have used, but a less comfortable shave overall with more irritation.

I have many other blades to try, but I will revisit this one later. Maybe the blade feel will calm down on subsequent uses. I have a Bic Astor ready to go for tomorrow, also a fist time try with it.
Just one correction if I may, the Lords are made in Egypt and Derbys in Turkey by Azmusebat, they are not the same company.
 
Soap: TFS
Brush: Omega boar
Razor: Henson AL13+++
Blade: Treet Platinum (1)
Postshave: Alum block, Dickinson's WH
Aftershave: Clubman Whiskey Woods
Rating: 9.5/10

Nice shave today with the Treet Platinum. I had tried one when I first started this debacle, and thought it was good. Now that my technique has improved, I can honestly say that this is a completely serviceable, sharp and comfortable blade. Was it as good as the Rapira yesterday? No. But with this blade currently going for $7 US per 100 on Amazon, it is a great value, and I would not be displeased if it was all I had on hand. It certainly worked better than the Derby Premium and Silver Star for me.

Burn from the alum block was significant on my neck, which is usual. The AS sting was also normal. This isn't the perfect blade, but it is a safe bet when you need a close shave with low irritation and above average closeness. I may have to revisit the Treet 7 Days Platinum again as well as it is only a couple of bucks more, but I remember being super impressed with it the first time I gave it a go. The Treet Platinum is definitely at or near the top for me when combining cost, availability, and performance.
 
Soap: Speick
Brush: Parker badger
Razor: Henson AL13+++
Blade: Treet Durasharp (1)
Postshave: Alum block, Dickinson's WH
Aftershave: Clubman Gent's Gin
Rating: 9.5/10

Decided to go back to back in the Treet family for a second day in a row. The Durasharp ranks about the same as the Platinum, but for different reasons. The blade felt sharp and smooth, I really enjoyed the feel. It isn't quite as sharp as I hoped it would be, and not as efficient in my problem spots (neck and chin).

However, the alum block sting on my neck was noticeably less than with the Platinum, and virtually no sting from the AS. Could be a few possibilities here - less irritation as it isn't as sharp, I may not have buffed my problem spots as much today, or the carbon steel blade just agrees with my skin. Kind of reminds me of the Treet King, but slightly better.

In any case, it's a fine blade and is cheap. I will definitely keep a few around. Will reach for others when I want that extreme level of closeness, though.
 
Soap: Speick
Brush: Parker badger
Razor: Henson AL13+++
Blade: Treet Durasharp (1)
Postshave: Alum block, Dickinson's WH
Aftershave: Clubman Gent's Gin
Rating: 9.5/10

Decided to go back to back in the Treet family for a second day in a row. The Durasharp ranks about the same as the Platinum, but for different reasons. The blade felt sharp and smooth, I really enjoyed the feel. It isn't quite as sharp as I hoped it would be, and not as efficient in my problem spots (neck and chin).

However, the alum block sting on my neck was noticeably less than with the Platinum, and virtually no sting from the AS. Could be a few possibilities here - less irritation as it isn't as sharp, I may not have buffed my problem spots as much today, or the carbon steel blade just agrees with my skin. Kind of reminds me of the Treet King, but slightly better.

In any case, it's a fine blade and is cheap. I will definitely keep a few around. Will reach for others when I want that extreme level of closeness, though.
That mirrors my experiences with the Durasharp. It's quite pleasant to use; enough that I can overlook the lower absolute sharpness.
 
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