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Dovo Inox is a magnet

My Dovo Inox razor is not magnetic, but actually a magnet. Is this normal?
I had a hard time honing it. The edge just seemed to chip. I can understand this if the swarf sticks to the edge as it abrades off.
You can actually lift the weight of a razor with it, not just a se blade.
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It is acting like a magnet because it is magnetic steel that has been magnetized. Like magnetic screwdrivers and such.

To get rid of that you will need some kind of demagnetizer, which is fairly common in places such as machine shops but not at all common as a general tool. Depending on where you are, the easiest way would be to find a machine shop and ask for 20 seconds of demagnetizer time. If you find decent folks, they should just do it for you.

Before you go though I would suggest wrapping the entire blade in something thick and rugged, such as strips of wood. Flat demagnetizers are used by passing the object to be demagnetized over the top, steel plate and the device itself is violently oscillating between both magnetic poles; if the blade touches that surface, it is very likely to be broken. Also, this will protect the person doing the service from getting cut as he / she will be holding the razor by hand.

There are small hobby types available for under $20 (US). I am speaking of the ones that use mains power, not the tool magnetizer / demagnetizer that do not use any power- not sure if they (the non- powered types) will fully demagnetize anything.
 
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rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
Stainless steel used in straight razors should be martensitic which can be made magnetic. If the stainless steel is not martensitic, it cannot be heat treated.

Stainless steel can also be rather tricky to hone. Depending on how it was heat treated, it can have weaker intergranular bonding that can lead to micro chipping at the edge. This is very evident in Japanes type VG10 steel. Good for cooking knives but not what we want in a SR.

I had 24 stainless steel SR's, all of Japanese steel, but found only 10 of them honed up to a good shave-ready edge. I gave 7 away and sold the rest.
 
Stainless steel used in straight razors should be martensitic which can be made magnetic. If the stainless steel is not martensitic, it cannot be heat treated.

Stainless steel can also be rather tricky to hone. Depending on how it was heat treated, it can have weaker intergranular bonding that can lead to micro chipping at the edge. This is very evident in Japanes type VG10 steel. Good for cooking knives but not what we want in a SR.

I had 24 stainless steel SR's, all of Japanese steel, but found only 10 of them honed up to a good shave-ready edge. I gave 7 away and sold the rest.
I got my Dovo inox second hand, so it was quite affordable. I would have been really disappointed if i had paid full retail price for this one. I was planning to use it for travel, but i think i will stick with my artist club shavettes instead for that purpose. Compared to my other carbon steel razors this really does not give me that smooth face feel. I hove no reason to pick this up when it is laying next to a TI razor.
I thought this was made of good steel. It almost feels like honing cheap 440C steel knife. The blade really seemed to stick/drag on the hones, and it starts to chip. It really did not seem to like refinement over 8k.
Can part of the problem be that because it is magnetized, the swarf just stick to the edge. As more metal is taken off the swarf causes issues at the apex?
The best result i had was doing a full jnat nagura progression. I thought something was wrong with the hardening of the steel. My jnat really seemed to cut allot faster then my carbon steel razors.
I have not played with pastes and balsa in a long time. Maybe i should give that a try.
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
@JPO, don't go to diamond pasted balsas until a blade has a very good shave-ready edge. Diamond pasted balsa does not make a mediocre edge better. It only makes a very good edge great.

I am thinking that you might be right about the magnetism catching the swarf and causing the edge to chip although I can't understand how your jnat could fix that problem.

As others have suggested, it is probably best to get the blade demagnetised and try again. If that doesn't work, it could be the blade's heat treatment was off.

Dovo SR's can make great letter openers. Just a bit of toe grinding should get it there.
 
@JPO, don't go to diamond pasted balsas until a blade has a very good shave-ready edge. Diamond pasted balsa does not make a mediocre edge better. It only makes a very good edge great.

I am thinking that you might be right about the magnetism catching the swarf and causing the edge to chip although I can't understand how your jnat could fix that problem.

As others have suggested, it is probably best to get the blade demagnetised and try again. If that doesn't work, it could be the blade's heat treatment was off.

Dovo SR's can make great letter openers. Just a bit of toe grinding should get it there.
I think i will need to demagnetize the razor somehow. I will try the most obvious youtube tutorial:)
I think the reason i get a better edge from the jnat is because i finish with slurry. That seems to limit the damage, but still not give a grate edge, just good enough.
 
@JPO, don't go to diamond pasted balsas until a blade has a very good shave-ready edge. Diamond pasted balsa does not make a mediocre edge better. It only makes a very good edge great.
The diamond pasted strops we use (0.5, 0.25 & 0.1) won't get a mediocre blade much better but a 1 micron one will.
Better yet a CrOx pasted balsa can bring a badly honed razor to shave ready, I've done it to confirm, but then honed it properly.

As others have suggested, it is probably best to get the blade demagnetised and try again. If that doesn't work, it could be the blade's heat treatment was off.
The small pass through demagnetisers (video above) are useless for this kind of thing, again I've used one and you can hit the edge putting it through one. I bought one of these cheap ones for razors and it's much better. Funnily enough soon after I bought it I stopped using the jig that was magnetising the blades in the first place but it's still handy to have when I get a blade that needs it.

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I also believe a magnetised blade sucks the metal fragments from the swarf and can chip a blade while honing. It's like honing on slurry in that you can only get to a certain level before you need to rinse and finish on water, or very light slurry, to max out the edge.
 
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