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Does Anyone Actually Enjoy High Wattage Vaping Units?

I started vaping some months ago and have bought lots of different equipment in this new hobby of mine.

I have Vamo V5 and Vamo V6 units which have wattages that range from 5W to 20W for the former, and 5W to 25W for the latter. And I have a DNA 35 unit that goes from 7W to 35W.

But I am genuinely puzzled, as while I like varying the voltage or wattage in the Vamo units, I find that I only really vary the voltage between 3.4V and 4.3V - which equates to around between 5 and 6.5W. If I put the power up any higher, my e-liquid has a burnt taste to it and the flavour which was in the liquid gets pretty mangled.

Consequently, I found that I really didn't like my DNA35 unit, since at it's lowest power of 7W, I just didn't like the burned output I got from most atomizers. I had to try around 10 different atomizers till I found one that I disliked least on the unit - and I still can't vape with it for any length of time.

My question is - does anybody actually use those high wattage settings on such units?
If you do, do you actually find it enjoyable?
Am I missing something?

I'd really appreciate any insight that you can give me on this matter.
Thanks,
Renato
 
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High wattage/voltage is mainly used for dripping. On a Kayfun I can't get higher than 15W, and my Fogger tops out at around 18W. When I used to use clearos from Aspire and Kanger, 10W was pushing it.

If you want to crack 20W, you need an RDA.
 
Oh... forgot to address the other part...

I find that my sweet spot is 25-35W while dripping. I'm not a cloud chaser though, just a flavor chaser. So, I like to keep it around there to get the best flavor possible. If I get higher than that, I tend to start getting nastier flavor.
 
High wattage/voltage is mainly used for dripping. On a Kayfun I can't get higher than 15W, and my Fogger tops out at around 18W. When I used to use clearos from Aspire and Kanger, 10W was pushing it.

If you want to crack 20W, you need an RDA.
Thanks for the explanation Jason.

I have a Kanger unit I haven't tried yet, and I'll try to see how it goes pushing towards 10W.

I had tried a small dripping unit once and I seemed to get pretty good vapour out of it at low power (though I didn't like it much). The high power might make a bit more sense when I try a bigger RDA dripping unit I own, but for which I haven't yet received the little cotton cylinders with wire rolled around them.

If I hadn't read your second comment, I might not have tried the really high power that you are talking about. Hopefully, I can find a use for my DNA35.
Regards,
Renato
 
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Thanks for the explanation Jason.

I have a Kanger unit I haven't tried yet, and I'll try to see how it goes pushing towards 10W.

I had tried a small dripping unit once and I seemed to get pretty good vapour out of it at low power (though I didn't like it much). The high power might make a bit more sense when I try a bigger RDA dripping unit I own, but for which I haven't yet received the little cotton cylinders with wire rolled around them.

If I hadn't read your second comment, I might not have tried the really high power that you are talking about. Hopefully, I can find a use for my DNA35.
Regards,
Renato
Make sure to familiarize yourself with battery safety and ohms law before you get into using any rebuildables. I'd also suggest watching as many how to videos on the subject as possible. It's not something you should dive into without having proper knowledge of first.
 
Make sure to familiarize yourself with battery safety and ohms law before you get into using any rebuildables. I'd also suggest watching as many how to videos on the subject as possible. It's not something you should dive into without having proper knowledge of first.
Shall do - thanks for the advice.
Regards,
Renato
 

Prof. Moriarty

Contributor
I keep my Atlantis at between 25-30 watts. Flavour, and vapour is great at that level. For my Mutation X V2 I have it at 40watts.
 
I love my Magma RDA at about 40W. When using my Tugboat, I like it at about 60W. When I use my Mutation X (built at about 0.2 ohms) it's on a mech, so about 88W on a fresh battery. The key to enjoying high wattage vaping is airflow. Of the three RDAs I mentioned, the Magma has the least amount of airflow. If I tried to vape that at 80W, I'd probably burn my throat.

Also, high VG juice does better at higher wattage levels, 70% or more seems to work for me.
 

BigFoot

I grew a tail.
Moderator
Thanks.
Which atomizers are you using on them?
Regards,
Renato
The Atlantis is a tank made by Aspire. It takes a factory built .5 ohm coil. The Mutation X is a RDA that can make one hell of a cloud with the right coil build.
 
I love my Magma RDA at about 40W. When using my Tugboat, I like it at about 60W. When I use my Mutation X (built at about 0.2 ohms) it's on a mech, so about 88W on a fresh battery. The key to enjoying high wattage vaping is airflow. Of the three RDAs I mentioned, the Magma has the least amount of airflow. If I tried to vape that at 80W, I'd probably burn my throat.

Also, high VG juice does better at higher wattage levels, 70% or more seems to work for me.
Thanks for the information. There is obviously a lot to it.
I'll have some experimenting ahead of me once I get the cotton coils for my RDA unit.
Regards,
Renato
 

Prof. Moriarty

Contributor
Ooops. Thanks for the clarification - I thought you were talking about the wattage setting on the battery unit.

I can't see those two where I often buy my stuff.
Cheers,
Renato
The RDA's are fun, I am getting myself a Magma II clone when I am back in the UK.
 
Yes.

I usually build .2 or .15ohm setups. Gone as low as .08 with my vtc5s, i enjoy the warmer vape and insane production.
 
Thanks guys. So here is my question. I have one of those RDA dripper things. And I've seen some Youtube videos on how to get wire and roll it around the cotton that gets dripped on.

Where does one get the wire that gives you the 0.2 or 0.6 ohms that you talk about? Or does someone supply you with the cotton and wires already made up?
Cheers,
Renato
 
Renato, I'd suggest visiting a reputable vape store and having them build your first couple of coils. They'll have resistance wire for sale, as well, which shouldn't cost much. I think I pay around $4 for a few feet. But you have to be able to calculate exactly how much is contained in your coils (or use an ohm tester with a 510 connection) to know what your build resistance is. The risk of venting a battery is too high for you to try yourself without some in-person instruction. You don't "wrap" the coils around the wick material; rather, you should pack the wick through the coils after they're built. I think there is some confusion there, and I'm worried that if it isn't done correctly, you may be at risk of injuring yourself.

On the other subject, I love high-wattage vaping -- when I'm using an RDA (I have a couple of Mutation X V2s I build at around .18ohms) -- but I also have an Aspire Atlantis tank and just got the Kanger Sub-Tank, and both are amazing between 25-30 watts (both max at 30W). Great flavor and great production. I bought the Kanger because it holds 6ml of liquid, almost 3x more than the Aspire, and that is a huge difference. However, when I'm dripping, the Sigelei gets cranked to between 55 and 70W, depending on the juice. I think the max VG liquids taste better with more heat, but that's just me. BTW, if anyone is wondering, I LOVE my Sigelei 100W regulated mod. I'll never go back to mechanical. It's just too much work.

All these things said, I think that regulated mods and the new sub-ohm tanks are a much safer and more convenient way to enjoy higher wattage vaping with more flavor and production without having to learn electrical engineering and thermodynamics. Just my two cents.

-Mark
 
Thanks guys. So here is my question. I have one of those RDA dripper things. And I've seen some Youtube videos on how to get wire and roll it around the cotton that gets dripped on.

Where does one get the wire that gives you the 0.2 or 0.6 ohms that you talk about? Or does someone supply you with the cotton and wires already made up?
Cheers,
Renato
It's kanthal wire... with varying gauges. It's a lot cheaper to just buy a roll of kanthal and make the coils yourself. It's also relatively easy to do once you get the hang of it... especially with coil jigs and stuff like the Kuro Koiler. They even sell knock off Kuro Koilers on Fasttech for dirt cheap.

I used to do coils by hand, but I got a Kuro Koiler due to laziness. It just makes things ridiculously easy.
 
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