Do Your Razor Blades Dull Suddenly or Gradually with Ongoing Use/Additional Shaves?

[Barbarian80]

I find most blades have two drop off curves. The first is the gradual loss of sharpness. The second is that one day it was doing fine. The next day it was tugging.

"Sharp" is such a vague word. To me, a blade that is "sharp" will cut hair when you slice at it with its edge. I've thrown away so many blades that were "sharp", because they were not keen. A keen edge gives you close and comfortable shaves. I've found that the majority of blades (maybe all) lose keenness after 6 passes and at that point they are still perfectly good at cutting, just not going to give you the best results possible at all the angles needed to give you a close comfortable shave. A blade will cut hair for many many shaves.

 

[Lane101]

Same thing here today. Second shave with a platinum and ATG below jawline was a bit scratchy. 1 small weeper.

Every time a see a thread about blades and longevity I feel like people should say how many passes and in which direction they are shaving.

A blade can be used easily for over 5 shaves if you’re doing WTG/XTG only.

It’s the ATG that really shows the wear of an edge.

And that usually comes way faster.

Hi Alex,

First, YMMV will apply here. I'm sure what you are saying is true in your and many other cases based on beard characteristics. My 2+ pass shaves are ATG both times on some areas of my face and XTG/ATG on others. On my Astra SP and Dorco blades I typically realize 8-12 shaves. Derby's now range around 4-6 shaves with an occasional outlier including one that went for over 20 shaves. It's possible that what you are experiencing may not be due to blade wear. What you are perceiving as blade wear may have more to do the fact that ATG shaves can be more irritating for many based on beard characteristics. One barber education text "Barbering Techniques for Hair Stylists" only recommends WTG and XTG shaving for this reason with ATG only for exceptional situations.

Of course the number of passes per shave will affect blade wear. Surprisingly ATG shaves may actually reduce blade wear versus WTG and XTG. While razor angle to one's face would be the same for either based on each individual's technique with ATG each hair likely receive close to a fully horizontal cut versus WTG where the hair is more likely bent when cut. At fully a horizontal angle (0 degrees versus the plane of the blade) the blade would spend less time cutting than when the hair is bent at angle. Additionally the the cutting force would be directly centered on the blade with a horizontal cut. The MIT study affirmed this showing that cutting a hair at an angle directs the force away from the blade increasing the likelihood of micro-chipping wear.

 

[purecro]

I just started reusing blades as I was a 1 and done blade user. I found that its gradual in my case. Some could gone longer but I stop at 4, I don't want an uncomfortable shave and after 4 uses a blade did its job to me meaning that the drop off was not signficiant enough to affect the shave. However I might even cut back on that as I typcially do a Wtg, Xtg, Atg and now more Wtg, Wtg (with touch up) then ATG so for me I want to have a great shave and not worry if my blade is sharp enough.

I had to be persuaded to try and use blades more, I am glad that I did but I still prefer the blade to be sharp and not have to worry so much "is shave 5 going to be good enough to where I need to change the blade during the shave". Thats my way of doing it.

I have coarse, thick facial hair so I know that is another thing that I need to consider. The only blade I will push is the Personna SPC because I know those and Personna 74 are meant to last way longer so that is different but as far as modern blades including Polsiver Super Iridium (really do like), Personna Lab Med Prep (really do like), King C (which I really do like), Kai's (also really do like) I won't go past 4 even if the blade is still good, i just don't see the point. I also shave generally every 3-4 days so I am sure that is another factor in wearing out the blades.

To me, whatever works for you go for it but that is my feedback.

 

[Alex Jr]

Hi Alex,

First, YMMV will apply here. I'm sure what you are saying is true in your and many other cases based on beard characteristics. My 2+ pass shaves are ATG both times on some areas of my face and XTG/ATG on others. On my Astra SP and Dorco blades I typically realize 8-12 shaves. Derby's now range around 4-6 shaves with an occasional outlier including one that went for over 20 shaves. It's possible that what you are experiencing may not be due to blade wear. What you are perceiving as blade wear may have more to do the fact that ATG shaves can be more irritating for many based on beard characteristics. One barber education text "Barbering Techniques for Hair Stylists" only recommends WTG and XTG shaving for this reason with ATG only for exceptional situations.

Of course the number of passes per shave will affect blade wear. Surprisingly ATG shaves may actually reduce blade wear versus WTG and XTG. While razor angle to one's face would be the same for either based on each individual's technique with ATG each hair likely receive close to a fully horizontal cut versus WTG where the hair is more likely bent when cut. At fully a horizontal angle (0 degrees versus the plane of the blade) the blade would spend less time cutting than when the hair is bent at angle. Additionally the the cutting force would be directly centered on the blade with a horizontal cut. The MIT study affirmed this showing that cutting a hair at an angle directs the force away from the blade increasing the likelihood of micro-chipping wear.

Hi lane! Just to make it clear about my previous post, I too get that 5+ shaves even with 2 passes ATG, specially with BICs.

But when a blade is close to being done, it’s the ATG pass that really shows it, at least for me.

What I meant is that when this happens I can imagine myself using the same blade way beyond that limit, as long as it’s WTG/XTG. But when it struggles ATG, it’s unmistakable.

Sometimes I do just that, and keep using it for a few more shaves with the grain only and finally bin it after that. Yes I’m that cheap

Nice info on the MIT, I love some shaving science

 

[Phil Dumont]

The MIT razor blade study did confirm that shaving angle has an impact on the level of microchipping. Wonder if it's enough for a sudden deterioration of the blade versus a significant acceleration of the gradual decline in cutting edge quality? In other words instead of a blade gradually wearing over say 8-10 shaves it declines at an accelerated pace of just 4-5 shaves.

I always try to maintain a consistent blade angle so have no direct observations of this effect. Have you adjusted your angle and seen this?

I should have written: shaving angle COULD have an effect on micro chipping, but i have done no clear experimentation to backup this statement. Its just that using a steep angle makes for a more "scratching" the hairs and skin, thus more chance for microchipping.
Studies with microscopic picturing of the blade edges would probably reveal a lot more about edge wear/chipping.

 

[Lane101]

Hi lane! Just to make it clear about my previous post, I too get that 5+ shaves even with 2 passes ATG, specially with BICs.

But when a blade is close to being done, it’s the ATG pass that really shows it, at least for me.

What I meant is that when this happens I can imagine myself using the same blade way beyond that limit, as long as it’s WTG/XTG. But when it struggles ATG, it’s unmistakable.

Sometimes I do just that, and keep using it for a few more shaves with the grain only and finally bin it after that. Yes I’m that cheap

Nice info on the MIT, I love some shaving science

Hi Alex, makes sense as ATG is most likely to cause irritation. Since both you and @Phil Dumont like science I've attached an article pdf that summarizes the MIT study.

Phil, the article research affirms that a steeper shaving angle increases the chance of micro-chipping. Basically the two main drivers of micro-chipping were micorscopic inconsistencies in the blade steel alloy and the angle of the blade in relation to each hair.

 

[Alex Jr]

Hi Alex, makes sense as ATG is most likely to cause irritation. Since both you and @Phil Dumont like science I've attached an article pdf that summarizes the MIT study.

Phil, the article research affirms that a steeper shaving angle increases the chance of micro-chipping. Basically the two main drivers of micro-chipping were micorscopic inconsistencies in the blade steel alloy and the angle of the blade in relation to each hair.

Thanks!

 

[been around]

Most Russian Gillettes go south gradually. Chinese and Indian Gillettes go quick after the second shave (with the exception of the Black plats) and won't work for a third. Personnas will remain sharp but begin to lose their smoothness quickly during shave four.

Next order from RBC I need to try a few tucks of Dorco 301s, Gillette perma sharps, and a variety of Treets. They all seem to get a lot of love here in the forum.

 

[watercolour]

Hi everyone, I've found that my blades tend to dull/deteriorate gradually with each additional use. With the exception of a couple really bad blades, that were discarded in the middle of a shave on first use, I've always been able to complete my shave with the same blade and then decide if it was time for a new one. This has become even more true as my technique has improved from changes such as a shift to wetter/slicker lather. When I've experienced a sudden deterioration in razor performance it has turned out to be a technique issue such as trying a new shave soap with insufficient slickness because I had not dialed in the loading correctly. Blade would be fine on the next shave with quality lather.

That said there are many posts from fellow B&Bers who do experience a sudden deterioration in blade performance sometimes requiring a mid-shave blade change or a mandatory limit in shaves per blade to minimize the possibility of a bad shave. Saw a post earlier today where a backup razor with a fresh blade is always on standby.

There are lots of factors in play that can effect blade wear from really sharp blades, such as Feather, that have a narrow edge hone angle with the result that they wear rapidly with many B&Bers only realizing one or two shaves per blade. Less sharp blades, with a wider edge tip hone angle, may be more resistant to the microchiping that is the primary driver of blade wear. I suspect that hair thickness/density could also come into play here. We've another thread regarding how aggressive razors might impact blade life. Believe there was some research that blade angle geometry can affect wear. Of course carbon steel blades can deteriorate quickly due to susceptibility to corrosion vs stainless.

What is your experience with razor blade wear? Do your blades suddenly drop off in performance or do they only gradually deteriorate? Does this vary based on the brand and type of blade that you use and have changes in your shaving techniques effected blade life? Any sense of what drives rapid blade deterioration when you experience it?

Had this prob until I started to use Personna Platinum, three passes each time I shave, in a Lemon Head razor, with Cella Shaving Soap. I get between 5 and 7 shaves before the blade starts to go dull.
I also use Bart’s Pre Shave Balm, tried a number pre shave balms and found this the best for me. (£7.99 Amazon).
Hope this helps.

 

[DesertIguana]

The original question is like how high is up, never put much thought into sharpness factor, think I have peen shaving so long, I light or vibe goes off in heard saying. Blade not working well, if it was knife I would stop & sharpen being razor blade change time.

 

[Dave himself]

Which of your blades do you consider the sharpest on your first shave? Curious if there is a pattern where the sharpest blades wear the fastest as is the case with Feather for many B&Bers.

I'm sorry I'm just seeing this now. In answer to your question, I would say in order it would be.

Permasharp
Nacet
GSB
Platinum

Hope this helps.

 

[Kent Kimmons]

Blade dependent. I've had blades take 7 shaves to dull beyond use and others not finish 2 shaves.