Do I need a more efficient safety razor?

[DrCarver]

Thanks to everyone for their input. It is much appreciated.

I realize that my biggest problem is that I have such an assortment of razors, blades, soaps, etc. that unless I narrow my focus and figure out what really works well for me, I will continue to have the same issues.

I want to keep refining, and that means I need to get back to the basics. Reading advice on these forums and going through video tutorials again is exactly what I need. I am excited about the whole process.

Thanks again.

 

[Filudo]

I constantly struggle with getting a close shave on the face without going overboard on passes. In particular, the areas on both sides my mouth and cheeks. Even with 3 passes (WTG/XTG/ATG) I still end up with stubble in these areas. Doesn’t seem to matter what razor I use. If I do too many passes I start to get red bumps in these areas. My shave prep is very good and my lather is stellar. I tend to rotate between all my razors except for the Henson which I use for the ATG pass and touch ups. The shavette is rarely used and just sits on the shelf for now.


Here’s my razor collection:

Merkur 37C
WSC ‘Merica
Merkur Progress Long Handle
Muhle Rocca R96
Henson AL13+
Rockwell 6S
Focus R28 shavette

I’m thinking of getting something more efficient that will allow me to do perhaps one less pass with better results.

What are your thoughts on these possible razor acquisitions or do I try to get proficient with the shavette?

Muhle R41 (not interested in the SS model)
Ikon OCD
Timeless ALSB45

Any other suggestions? I would love to get your thoughts.

I think the Merkur Progress (>#3), Rocca and Rockwell at plates 5 o 6 are all plenty efficient. Use only one razor at a time....use that Progress and master it changing settings.... If you still need more efficiency despite using good blades, try a Kai. I would not spend more money on more razors......or try an open comb

 

[Hopalong]

Can you see? Because since I had cataract surgery 2 years ago I can’t see up close.
I can’t stand putting two pairs of glasses on and off while shaving, so I just guess.

I chased a lot razors, plates and blades, including Rockwell 6s (all six plates) RR GC all 4 plates.
I settled on what I consider the right combination of efficiency and smoothness for me, along with not shaving every day and being in a hurry and can’t see.
FOCS. For about $30.00 might be worth a try.

 

[Asland408]

I have enjoyed this thread. I have been improving my technique lately too. There is a 4 pass shave on the shaving clinic/newbie section. That has really changed how I shave. The technique has diagonal passes that has really improve my shave. Also as others have said the J hook or Gillette slide. Finding the right angle that the blade meets the face try odd angles to disrupt your muscle memory and perhaps find a new better angle. Stick with one razor for a longer time. Good shaves to you! Just my 2 pennies.

 

[RayClem]

Thanks for your input.

Here’s my preshave routine.

Warm shower and Cetaphil Gentle Facial Cleanser for the face.
Rinse off and apply a bit of lather to my face while I get a pitcher of cold water for the shave.
Apply lather to my face and wait a minute or so before my first pass.

As for the lather, I bowl lather. I start off with a damp brush and load for 30 seconds, then I start working the soap while adding water from a misting bottle until I have a lather that resembles whipping cream that has a sheen to it.

Let me know where I might improve. I always want to keep learning.

Taking a warm shower and using a face cleanser to clean and prep your beard is ideal.

You did not mention the shave soap you are using, but if it takes 30 seconds to load your brush, I am assuming you are using a traditional hard puck. With most artisan soaps, I am able to load the brush in about 10 seconds. Different soaps have different lathering characteristics. With some soaps, the end point should be like whipped cream. With other soaps it should be like yogurt. There are many variations. Since you did not list your soap, I do not know whether your lather is properly hydrated using your method. However, I have a test that can help you tell.


Fill a bowl or your sink with water and leave a trickle of water flowing so the container overflows. Apply lather to your face and then make a normal shaving stroke. After that stroke, gently dip the razor into the water and observe what happens. If the lather sticks to the razor, it needs more water. If the lather immediately disperses, you added too much water and need to add more soap. If the lather quickly releases from the razor and floats to the top like a cloud of foam, you have it about right. Typically, there will be a range of hydration that will satisfy the test. Within that range, you can make the lather slightly drier or wetter depending upon your personal preference. If the lather is too dry, it won't be slick enough. If the lather is too wet, it will lack protection. A properly hydrated lather will help you get a great shave. Once you have done this test a few times, you will know exactly how much water to use and how much soap to load for you shave without lather left over.

 

[huck1680]

Thanks to everyone for their input. It is much appreciated.

I realize that my biggest problem is that I have such an assortment of razors, blades, soaps, etc. that unless I narrow my focus and figure out what really works well for me, I will continue to have the same issues.

I want to keep refining, and that means I need to get back to the basics. Reading advice on these forums and going through video tutorials again is exactly what I need. I am excited about the whole process.

Thanks again.

That's a great way to move forward. At times Ive had over 250 razors...I'm down to 8 which all deliver great shaves. I stick with blades I've come to know and appreciate. Soaps etc are all interchangeable to the point where all I ask is a decent lather. As to which method works best...I like bowl lathering with a soft soap the best, with mug lathering with a hard soap coming in second.

 

[Happy Jack]

Do I need a more efficient safety razor?

Probably, yes. I kept buying more and more aggressive razors. I find even the modern R41 too mild for my neck and jaw.

For me the Ikon B1 Standard is a great compromise, but a bit pricey. The Ikon Tek is possibly too aggressive, but a bargain, especially when bought as a head only.

The best adjustable is the Futur. It won't leave much stubble behind when set wide open and you can always dial it down a bit if it's too much.. The cheap Futur clones shave just as well once you manage to get the blade aligned properly.

Aggressive razors do demand extra care if you don't want cuts and irritation. Two passes (XTG and ATG) are usually sufficient for me.

Personally I get great results and value for money from BIC Chrome, Gillette Yellow or Astra SP blades. YMMV.

Finally don't push a blade for too many shaves. I find three shaves a good time for a fresh blade.

HTH.

 

[DrCarver]

Taking a warm shower and using a face cleanser to clean and prep your beard is ideal.

You did not mention the shave soap you are using, but if it takes 30 seconds to load your brush, I am assuming you are using a traditional hard puck. With most artisan soaps, I am able to load the brush in about 10 seconds. Different soaps have different lathering characteristics. With some soaps, the end point should be like whipped cream. With other soaps it should be like yogurt. There are many variations. Since you did not list your soap, I do not know whether your lather is properly hydrated using your method. However, I have a test that can help you tell.


Fill a bowl or your sink with water and leave a trickle of water flowing so the container overflows. Apply lather to your face and then make a normal shaving stroke. After that stroke, gently dip the razor into the water and observe what happens. If the lather sticks to the razor, it needs more water. If the lather immediately disperses, you added too much water and need to add more soap. If the lather quickly releases from the razor and floats to the top like a cloud of foam, you have it about right. Typically, there will be a range of hydration that will satisfy the test. Within that range, you can make the lather slightly drier or wetter depending upon your personal preference. If the lather is too dry, it won't be slick enough. If the lather is too wet, it will lack protection. A properly hydrated lather will help you get a great shave. Once you have done this test a few times, you will know exactly how much water to use and how much soap to load for you shave without lather left over.

I’ve watched a lot of lathering videos and they have been very educational. But I have not seen any instructions like the ones that you provided which deal with the effectiveness of the lather created. This is most helpful. Thank you.

 

[Jens]

Sounds like you could improve on technique. Touch ups in problem areas might be worth spending some time experimenting with (of course all with a very light hand). Try different blades (smooth and sharp), but don't change too often, stick with both blade and razor for a good while to get more familiar with that particular tool. Only then can you improve on technique.
I particularly get good results on a 3 and 4th touch up pass when I use a) THIN watered down lather for those passes providing mainly glide b) cold water to dilute the lather and plenty of cold water in the face as prep for that pass. I think the cold water makes the stubble stick out more (easier to cut off) and calms the skin (helps tolerate yet a close pass) ... what I do know is that it works well. I get a lot of not quite cleaned areas perfected that way. Also, with the thin watery glide lather, it's easier to feel with your hand where exactly there is still stubble to be removed.
And remember, that bit of remaining stubble does not protrude quite as much once you have finished the shave and let the skin rest for a bit.
STOP on the safe side before you start getting razor burn.

 

[Quaznoid]

With the Progress you have all the razor you’ll ever need. Perfect your technique, sell off the other razors and shave.

 

[Asland408]

That's a great way to move forward. At times Ive had over 250 razors...I'm down to 8 which all deliver great shaves. I stick with blades I've come to know and appreciate. Soaps etc are all interchangeable to the point where all I ask is a decent lather. As to which method works best...I like bowl lathering with a soft soap the best, with mug lathering with a hard soap coming in second.

I had 2 questions for you: 1. What are your eight razors now? 2. What do you consider a soft soap? Thanks and Happy shaving!

 

[gdawg55]

Surprised your not getting close shaves with the Rocca….very good razor.

If you think a new razor is the answer then look no farther then the Blackbird, Yates 921-H, or Rocca 95. All these will be an improvement in efficiency. The R41 will do if you like rough shaves.

 

[huck1680]

I had 2 questions for you: 1. What are your eight razors now? 2. What do you consider a soft soap? Thanks and Happy shaving!

The eight are Lambda Athena, Smart-Helix Apollo, Chiseled Face Legacy, Razorine Flatboy, Blutt Br1.20, Dart re-issue, OverLander and the GreenCult 2.0. As far as soft soap, what I meant were the soap cremes that come in a tube. Proraso, Tabac etc. I squeeze out some soap into one of my lather bowls and use one of my brushes to whip it in to a nice lather.

 

[huck1680]

I had 2 questions for you: 1. What are your eight razors now? 2. What do you consider a soft soap? Thanks and Happy shaving!

Also you can get soft or creme soaps in tubs as well. With those I just open the tub and swirl my brush directly onto the soap. Once loaded I use the lathering bowl to create my lather.

 

[Asland408]

Also you can get soft or creme soaps in tubs as well. With those I just open the tub and swirl my brush directly onto the soap. Once loaded I use the lathering bowl to create my lather.

Thanks so much for both answers. I really appreciate it. Have a great day!

 

[Dennis Trigubetz]

I started off with a 'Merica razor and then joined the forum here and quickly fell into the rabbit hole of buying other razors to try. And over the past few months my technique has improved and my pre-shave prep and lathering has improved.

The main technique improvements I've gained - or at least the things that seem to get me the closest shave with the least irritation:
Very light pressure gets me closer shaves. When you aren't pressing, then you have to find the exact angle (and every razor is different) that gets the edge of the blade skimming right across the slick lathered skin and catching the hairs at skin level.

When you press the razor into the skin it's more about creating a wave or roll in the tissue that brings the skin up and into the edge of the blade (or so it seems to me - I'm no expert but that's how it seems)

Razors like the Tatara Masamune and the Gillette Tech etc. don't curve the blade very much and I find I need a really shallow angle for the blade to get close when I'm applying no pressure. Here's a crude drawing of what I mean by shallow and how I get good results with a razor like the Tech etc.
View attachment 1621260


The 'Merica seems to require a steep angle more like this:
View attachment 1621268
I've found that with a Feather or Nacet or Perma-Sharp etc. in the "Merica and very light pressure with an angle where I can feel/hear the blade catching the whiskers, I get a very close shave without irritation. I can do the same with an R41 but I have to pay much more attention to what I'm doing with the R41 and the "Merica is much easier and gets me a similar close shave.

Thank you for the tip that the Merica seems to require a more steep angle. I shaved with it the first time Monday evening and was surprised that the blade exposure with a Feather blade was quite pronounced; however, there was virtually no blade gap as the blade edge was right up to the safety bar.

Using a shallow angle I found that the shaving soap lather flooded the blade edge requiring frequent rinsing. I will use a more steep angle next shave. All and all the Merica is a nice little razor.

 

[been around]

A common theme is use one razor until you master it. I couldn't agree more. I used way too much aggression when I was starting out. I am having success going in the other direction. I parked the 89, the 41, and recently the red tip and use a 40s super speed as well as a rocket from the same era. I get excellent results with these razors loaded with GSBs and Nacets.

Quite honestly, I find the shave and results of the American super speed and the English rocket to be identical. My apologies to our British cousins. OK maybe a little less pressure with the rocket.

 

[Eshebert]

I have both R41 and 6C / R6 plate. They are really like splitting hairs. We have very similar problems and comparable beards. I have a thick coarse beard, neck grows 3 directions. I work to get BBS. But I can get it or struggle with any of my razors. My 34G and R89 just take more work/cleanup on the neck. I pretty much only use Ferber, Naset or GSB

What I have found is that Pre shave is pretty much bull****. Always shave out of shower or bath. Get a slick cream and get good at lather/hydration, I do believe that is the key. I I’ve the smell of Proraso Red, but TOBS lather is so slick. It’s hard not to get BBS with TOBS. Do your 2 or 3 passes, finishing against. I clean up the neck with soapy fingers, feeling my way, shaving against with the any razor (even the R41). Then I reach a point of good enough, right before I know I will give myself an issue.I stop. Then I apply a cold splash, tap fry and aftershave. If I know I went to far, I do apply alum. After I clean up my gear I feel my face one last time. If there is some against the grain dragging, I usually grab the 6C or R41 and do some dry touch ups. I do not suggest that unless you have done it before and absolutely comfortable with your angles.

I find many times, I may be able to feel scruff with the wet soapy fingers that completely goes away once I cold splash and aftershave and pores closes. Instead of chewing my neck up for no reason, I learned when to call calf rope.

 

[Phil Dumont]

I also think you have more than enough razors already.
Euh, but maybe you should buy a Fatip OC (piccolo, grande) , it is for me really something special, very efficient but still smooth.

 

[Phoenixkh]

@DrCarver , are you still with us?