DMT 1200 vs. Atoma 1200 for Bevel Setting

Discussion in 'Hones/Honing' started by Andy77, May 19, 2018.

    There’s been much talk of the superior performance of Atoma plates vs DMT plates. Also much talk of the role of a DMT 1200 in bevel setting as part of a lapping film progression. But I’ve never heard of an Atoma 1200 used for bevel setting. Does anyone have any experience to compare the two?

    Thanks Gents!!
     
  1. Before I answer your question I’m curious as to what your current bevel set stone is.
     
  2. Atoma have raised areas of diamonds in a matrix. Harder on steel than the dmt. But once worn in it works fine. I don't make a habit of using an atoma but have done so many times. I've used both. The atoma lasts longer but is harder on steel. I prefer a chosera 1k.
     
  3. I currently use a DMT 1200. It’s starting to get worn and some streaks, so that (and a persistent case of HAD) has prompted me to look at the Atoma.

    I like diamond plates because my man cave doesn’t have plumbing. Everything is spray bottles and towels, so options that never or infrequently need lapping make life easy for me. I’ve had success with DMT->film, DMT->Arkansas and DMT—>hard JAT.
     
  4. Ok. Well it’s not my place to say that you shouldn’t use it. But I think in time the Naniwa Chosera 1k is a really solid investment. I also have a Shapton 1.5k as well as a King 1200. Options are always nice. The striations from my 1200 Atoma have always left me a bit squeamish. The scratches can run rather deep & add up to extra work later. But again it depends how worn the plate is. If I had to use a plate I think I would use a DMT rather than the Atomas.
    Devan J.
     
    Last edited: May 19, 2018
  5. How often do you find yourself lapping the Shapton? My understanding of all three of those is that they, like other water stones, need a good lap prior to using. I have a Naniwa 1k that Wears quickly enough that I wouldn’t use without lapping first.
     
  6. I’ll give it a quick lap prior to each use but you’re not loosing much in the way of thickness.
     
  7. My concern isn’t thickness. I don’t have running water in my mancave so lap-free (or lap-infrequent) options are good for me- hence the DMT.

    Think I could get away with lapping infrequently? Say... every 5 average uses or less?
     
  8. A chosera 1k (Nani pro) wont require frequent lapping .and you could do the initial lapping on both sides giving you that extra time.
     
  9. I lap my Shaptons with every use, but that is more for my peace of mind than necessity. You can use a spray bottle for lapping water stones. You can also make a honing/lapping pond with a stainless pan or Tupperware.
     
  10. If you don't want to worry about lapping, I'd go with another DMT Fine. Honestly though, your current DMT F shouldn't be wearing out that quickly from just beveling razors. Are you sure it is worn out? The only time I've killed a DMT was by try to lap jnats with it...that killed the DMT real quick. My atoma is still going strong as a lapping plate though.
     
  11. I would not use an Atoma 1.2k for honing. To be honest, I wouldn't use a DMT for honing either, but if someone put a gun to my head and made me choose the DMT or the Atoma for bevel setting - I'd grab the DMT.
    For lapping - I find Atomas to last much longer, and they seem to start flater and stay flatter and more consistent also.
    But I find that the Atoma's surface is less appropriate for honing.
    IME - after owning a lot of DMTs and Atomas - I find DMTs wear faster than Atomas, and unevenly. Out of the box, DMT's seem to be way more prone to creating many problematic deep rogue scratches. But the DMT's surface is better suited for grinding steel on a razor.
    I have set my fair share of bevels on a DMT - if I was forced to do it today, I would want to follow it with the next finer DMT plate - is it a 4k? My memories of trying to clean up the 1.2k mess is not a good one. The next finer DMT plate would, hopefully, mitigate it to a workable degree more easily than a 3k waterstone would.

    I know, I know, there are people that like using DMTs for honing. I don't and it's not from not trying it out. You have to literally wear at least 25% of the life out out of a DMT to get the surface to a useable state. Whoever loves them cam have them, I have better things to do with my time.

    All that being said, I'd choose a Shapton 1.5k or Chosera 1k over any diamond plate for setting bevels every time. The Naniwa 1k is softer, if you lean too hard on it, it will need to be lapped way too often. You can lean more on the other two stones I mentioned but unless you are honing a lot - and I do mean A LOT - you should not have to lap the C1k or S1.5k all that often. By lap, i mean take notable material off. With any waterstone, we need to clear the working surface from loaded swarf. I will use the Atoma or a nagura for that, a few passes refreshes the surface, but I don't consider that lapping.
     
  12. OK. I know enough to know when I should take the advice of my betters. When Keith offers perspective I’d be a fool not to take it into account A Chosera is on the way. Which I plan on lapping on both sides- buca.

    Thanks all for this thread!!
     
  13. I have only used atoma 1200 when there is a lot of work to remove chips.... i have now a chosera 600 so no need to do that anymore, but Atoma was effective for the hard work indeed. of course you need to use the chosera 1k to remove the stria and kid of start from there with the whole honing
     

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