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Diplomat Case Restoration w/Pics

I thought I would post this to inspire others to do the same. If you have an old Gillette case that looks good on the outside, but not so good on the inside, you can recover the inside, or at least the lining of the bottom. You could do the top's lining, but you couldn't duplicate the logo stamp, or at least I can't. Diplomats are good candidates for this, because they have a plastic cover over the top lining, which hopefully protected it over the years. I've done a 46 'crat case the same way that had a good lid liner. If I ever sell these things, I'll identify them as re-covered/restored cases. Here's how I did it.

Take it to a fabric store and look for velvet that matches the old stuff. If the red or white trim around the base and lid is damaged, get some fabric that matches it. You'll want that to be very thin stuff. You may also need some thin nylon or silk white fabric to cover the hinge. Fabric stores are foreign to most of us. Just ask them to help you get what you need. You won't need much of it, and will probably spend less than 10 bucks.

With a butter knife, gently pry up the metal tray. If you're going to reuse it, be careful not to damage the red trim piece around it. There's a thin cardboard tray under that metal tray that you need to get out, too. I tried lots of stuff to remove the old felt and glue from the metal, but the only thing that worked on the glue was paint stripper. I didn't remove the old felt from the cardboard, I just cut a new piece from the shiny, thin cardboard box a coffee pot came in. While you are at it, use the same cardboard to fashion a correct sized cardboard trim piece if you need to replace the red trim.

Get some rust remover that you paint on, not the spray on stuff. I used some from Rustoleum. Paint that on the inside of the case, and the metal tray. Might as well remove the lid's liner and rust proof the lid. Wear some gloves and dip a paper towel in it and rub the rust off the gold trim as best you can, then wipe it clean. It'll turn rust that it can't remove black, which is better than rust colored. Once it is dry, your tray will be black, which doesn't look good under the white velvet, so spray paint it white.

Using some spray fabric glue, re-cover the metal tray and the cardboard bottom plate. You'll probably have to fiddle with it. I used a larger than needed piece of fabric, and trimmed it to fit after I was happy with the glue job. Same thing with the red and white trim, although a glue stick is easier to use than spray for this purpose. A tip on the red and white trim is to glue it onto the cardboard backing strip, THEN bend the strip to fit. If you are lucky, any dirt on the plastic cover of the lid lining will wipe off with a Windex dampened paper towel.

Reassembly is a pain. First, clean the outside of the case real good. It's probably not leather, but I found that mink oil cleaned it up real nice. Probably Armorall would work well, too. Don't use anything too strong, because you don't want to take off those green star things. If there's any nicks in it, use a brown stain pen to darken them up and sorta hide them. Do this before you put your nice clean interior in, so that you don't risk staining it.

Put the trim pieces in first, then the hinge cover fabric, then the cardboard base plate thing. The hard part is getting the metal tray in without crushing up the red trim piece. I found that you can gently bend it to make it smaller, then press it back flat after you get it in. Now put the lid trim back, and you're done. Total time -- probably an hour or so, spread across several days. I bet I spent more time getting the fabric than putting it all together. Here's some before/after pics.

$P5022066.jpg$P5242128.jpg$P5242129.jpg

If anyone has an idea on how to re-cover that plastic on the lid, I'd appreciate it. This one's in decent shape, but I have 2 others that aren't. I'm also still looking for a way to fix hinges that don't snap closed.
 
That looks amazing.

I would love to see some "in progress" pics if you took any while you were working on the case
 
This thread is great !! I have a 1956 Diplomat that I inherited a year ago from a family member . I cleaned up the razor , but the case is in rough shape..
 
MS...Fantastic job !!....great tutorial as well.You mean to say that under the yellowed plastic,the Gillette logo and fabric were still that pristine ? Amazing !...I think your best bet for recovering the logo panel would be to take it,along with the old plastic covering,to TAP plastics ,and get their advice.Second choice would be a top notch hobby store,especially one that specializes in model cars etc..I bet there is a thin plastic sheet you can cut and attach via hair blow dryer heat...
 
I thought I would post this to inspire others to do the same. If you have an old Gillette case that looks good on the outside, but not so good on the inside, you can recover the inside, or at least the lining of the bottom. You could do the top's lining, but you couldn't duplicate the logo stamp, or at least I can't. Diplomats are good candidates for this, because they have a plastic cover over the top lining, which hopefully protected it over the years. I've done a 46 'crat case the same way that had a good lid liner. If I ever sell these things, I'll identify them as re-covered/restored cases. Here's how I did it.

Take it to a fabric store and look for velvet that matches the old stuff. If the red or white trim around the base and lid is damaged, get some fabric that matches it. You'll want that to be very thin stuff. You may also need some thin nylon or silk white fabric to cover the hinge. Fabric stores are foreign to most of us. Just ask them to help you get what you need. You won't need much of it, and will probably spend less than 10 bucks.

With a butter knife, gently pry up the metal tray. If you're going to reuse it, be careful not to damage the red trim piece around it. There's a thin cardboard tray under that metal tray that you need to get out, too. I tried lots of stuff to remove the old felt and glue from the metal, but the only thing that worked on the glue was paint stripper. I didn't remove the old felt from the cardboard, I just cut a new piece from the shiny, thin cardboard box a coffee pot came in. While you are at it, use the same cardboard to fashion a correct sized cardboard trim piece if you need to replace the red trim.

Get some rust remover that you paint on, not the spray on stuff. I used some from Rustoleum. Paint that on the inside of the case, and the metal tray. Might as well remove the lid's liner and rust proof the lid. Wear some gloves and dip a paper towel in it and rub the rust off the gold trim as best you can, then wipe it clean. It'll turn rust that it can't remove black, which is better than rust colored. Once it is dry, your tray will be black, which doesn't look good under the white velvet, so spray paint it white.

Using some spray fabric glue, re-cover the metal tray and the cardboard bottom plate. You'll probably have to fiddle with it. I used a larger than needed piece of fabric, and trimmed it to fit after I was happy with the glue job. Same thing with the red and white trim, although a glue stick is easier to use than spray for this purpose. A tip on the red and white trim is to glue it onto the cardboard backing strip, THEN bend the strip to fit. If you are lucky, any dirt on the plastic cover of the lid lining will wipe off with a Windex dampened paper towel.

Reassembly is a pain. First, clean the outside of the case real good. It's probably not leather, but I found that mink oil cleaned it up real nice. Probably Armorall would work well, too. Don't use anything too strong, because you don't want to take off those green star things. If there's any nicks in it, use a brown stain pen to darken them up and sorta hide them. Do this before you put your nice clean interior in, so that you don't risk staining it.

Put the trim pieces in first, then the hinge cover fabric, then the cardboard base plate thing. The hard part is getting the metal tray in without crushing up the red trim piece. I found that you can gently bend it to make it smaller, then press it back flat after you get it in. Now put the lid trim back, and you're done. Total time -- probably an hour or so, spread across several days. I bet I spent more time getting the fabric than putting it all together. Here's some before/after pics.

View attachment 337017View attachment 337018View attachment 337019

If anyone has an idea on how to re-cover that plastic on the lid, I'd appreciate it. This one's in decent shape, but I have 2 others that aren't. I'm also still looking for a way to fix hinges that don't snap closed.
looks original niceee
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I thought I would post this to inspire others to do the same. If you have an old Gillette case that looks good on the outside, but not so good on the inside, you can recover the inside, or at least the lining of the bottom. You could do the top's lining, but you couldn't duplicate the logo stamp, or at least I can't. Diplomats are good candidates for this, because they have a plastic cover over the top lining, which hopefully protected it over the years. I've done a 46 'crat case the same way that had a good lid liner. If I ever sell these things, I'll identify them as re-covered/restored cases. Here's how I did it.

Take it to a fabric store and look for velvet that matches the old stuff. If the red or white trim around the base and lid is damaged, get some fabric that matches it. You'll want that to be very thin stuff. You may also need some thin nylon or silk white fabric to cover the hinge. Fabric stores are foreign to most of us. Just ask them to help you get what you need. You won't need much of it, and will probably spend less than 10 bucks.

With a butter knife, gently pry up the metal tray. If you're going to reuse it, be careful not to damage the red trim piece around it. There's a thin cardboard tray under that metal tray that you need to get out, too. I tried lots of stuff to remove the old felt and glue from the metal, but the only thing that worked on the glue was paint stripper. I didn't remove the old felt from the cardboard, I just cut a new piece from the shiny, thin cardboard box a coffee pot came in. While you are at it, use the same cardboard to fashion a correct sized cardboard trim piece if you need to replace the red trim.

Get some rust remover that you paint on, not the spray on stuff. I used some from Rustoleum. Paint that on the inside of the case, and the metal tray. Might as well remove the lid's liner and rust proof the lid. Wear some gloves and dip a paper towel in it and rub the rust off the gold trim as best you can, then wipe it clean. It'll turn rust that it can't remove black, which is better than rust colored. Once it is dry, your tray will be black, which doesn't look good under the white velvet, so spray paint it white.

Using some spray fabric glue, re-cover the metal tray and the cardboard bottom plate. You'll probably have to fiddle with it. I used a larger than needed piece of fabric, and trimmed it to fit after I was happy with the glue job. Same thing with the red and white trim, although a glue stick is easier to use than spray for this purpose. A tip on the red and white trim is to glue it onto the cardboard backing strip, THEN bend the strip to fit. If you are lucky, any dirt on the plastic cover of the lid lining will wipe off with a Windex dampened paper towel.

Reassembly is a pain. First, clean the outside of the case real good. It's probably not leather, but I found that mink oil cleaned it up real nice. Probably Armorall would work well, too. Don't use anything too strong, because you don't want to take off those green star things. If there's any nicks in it, use a brown stain pen to darken them up and sorta hide them. Do this before you put your nice clean interior in, so that you don't risk staining it.

Put the trim pieces in first, then the hinge cover fabric, then the cardboard base plate thing. The hard part is getting the metal tray in without crushing up the red trim piece. I found that you can gently bend it to make it smaller, then press it back flat after you get it in. Now put the lid trim back, and you're done. Total time -- probably an hour or so, spread across several days. I bet I spent more time getting the fabric than putting it all together. Here's some before/after pics.



If anyone has an idea on how to re-cover that plastic on the lid, I'd appreciate it. This one's in decent shape, but I have 2 others that aren't. I'm also still looking for a way to fix hinges that don't snap closed.
Try these guys
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30731&site=ROCKLER

or amazon
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http://www.amazon.com/Jewelry-Stop-Hinge-Nickel-Plated/dp/B0063D7MUY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_29

or Vertex
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http://www.vertexhinges.com/jewelrybox/jewelrybox.php
 
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What breaks is the little clip in the middle of the hinge above. The rest of the hinge is usually fine. Maybe I can find a woodworking shop that sells hinges like this one. I can't find any online that sell them in small quantities, and without seeing them, I don't know if they are the right size clips. I guess you could replace the whole hinge, but I'm not sure you could do that successfully. They are kinda clipped in the razor case just so. I have noticed that all Gillette leather looking cases from the 40s and 50s use this clip.

I may be able to make one from an automobile hose clamp. In any case, the diplomat box I did has a perfectly working hinge. The 46 crat box I did does not. It works, just doesn't snap closed. I tried using a rare earth magnet to snap it closed. That works, but then the whole box sticks to anything metal, such as other razor boxes. Not good, although amusing...

As for the lid plastic, mine cleaned up pretty good. It's not as yellowed as in the original picture I took. I think my white balance was off or something. It does have a hole worn in the plastic where it rubs on the razor head, so I'd replace it if I figured out how. There are heat and shrink plastics out there, but I think they would draw tight across the lid, and away from the lining as you heat them. One thing I was thinking of was to turn the lid upside down, and shrink it over the back side of it, using the lid as a mold. Then peel it off and stick it to the inside of it. Might work. I'll have to look into it someday.

The fabrics were all bought at JoAnn Fabric.
 
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