Did reconditioning ruin a Fatboy?

[BBS-1]

You should be able to check the blade gap, with shim stock type feeler gauge. This will tell you if the gap was set correctly when it was reassembled, some (most) plating shops do not disassemble so it could be off ether-way.

The problem with gap measurements is 10 different people will come up with 10 different measurements on the same razor. Also if you measure the ends it will gap a little differently than the middle of blade since the doors don't clamp the blade with even pressure throughout.

If the razors were built in a consistent manner then the way to check is to take one from the same year preferably same year and quarter and underclock each if the adjuster nut isn't already bottomed out and do so until both razor's adjuster nuts are and make a note of how many times you needed to turn first back from 1 to 9 and where the numbers lined up using reference points on the handle when it bottomed out. They should be almost if not the same if that is how Gillette calibrated them.

Note on reassembly if the place did it correctly they would have set it to the middle aka 5 setting before assembling the doors and pressing/tightening everything down. When you factor in the deviation if you do it from an end point aka 1 or 9 the gaps will deviate more than if you do it from the middle since there is less travel going from 5 to 1 or 5 to 9 as opposed to 1 to 9 or 9 to 1.

 

[the maui life]

The problem with gap measurements is 10 different people will come up with 10 different measurements on the same razor. Also if you measure the ends it will gap a little differently than the middle of blade since the doors don't clamp the blade with even pressure throughout.

If the razors were built in a consistent manner then the way to check is to take one from the same year preferably same year and quarter and underclock each if the adjuster nut isn't already bottomed out and do so until both razor's adjuster nuts are and make a note of how many times you needed to turn first back from 1 to 9 and where the numbers lined up using reference points on the handle when it bottomed out. They should be almost if not the same if that is how Gillette calibrated them.

Note on reassembly if the place did it correctly they would have set it to the middle aka 5 setting before assembling the doors and pressing/tightening everything down. When you factor in the deviation if you do it from an end point aka 1 or 9 the gaps will deviate more than if you do it from the middle since there is less travel going from 5 to 1 or 5 to 9 as opposed to 1 to 9 or 9 to 1.

 

[TJ19]

It does sound like the gap setting is off... Did you use it before it was refurbished?

 

[the maui life]

BBS-1
"The problem with gap measurements is 10 different people will come up with 10 different measurements on the same razor. Also if you measure the ends it will gap a little differently than the middle of blade since the doors don't clamp the blade with even pressure throughout."

The first part of your statement is true, because they don't know how to check them properly. The second I could explain is only half right but I'd have you and 9 different people come up with 10 different reasons.

"Note on reassembly if the place did it correctly they would have set it to the middle aka 5 setting before assembling the doors and pressing/tightening everything down. When you factor in the deviation if you do it from an end point aka 1 or 9 the gaps will deviate more than if you do it from the middle since there is less travel going from 5 to 1 or 5 to 9 as opposed to 1 to 9 or 9 to 1."

I only selected this to show ( in a nice respectable way) you don't really understand, what you are talking about on this subject. If you know what the correct gap for a single setting ie 1-9 you can set the gap correctly at any number (although I personally do not use bigger numbers) on the adj. knob each consecutive gap setting will follow continuously to the next gap (up or down) via the v-notches on the inside of the adjuster knob as the 'dimple' on clicker spring falls into place by design. The gap will not, "deviate more than if you do it from the middle since there is less travel going from 5 to 1 or 5 to 9 as opposed to 1 to 9 or 9 to 1." unless you have a weak/defective spring (bypasses v notch) or the spring is manually depressed and the knob is rotated aka over-clocked. With all that said, I work on these razors daily for over 4 years, with many happy customers, I've even done work for people such as Chris@ RP both personal and his related customers, I've never had one single complaint about my blade gap setting.

 

[xiletero]

I have a super adjustable, it came w a broken spring. And the adjuster goes 360x3, but for some reason it's offset by 1-2#'s, so I had to eye it to a normal one for the desired gap....but the main issue w that one is that with no spring the adjuster is easily moved while shaving.... Not worth fixing it for me.

 

[BBS-1]

BBS-1
"The problem with gap measurements is 10 different people will come up with 10 different measurements on the same razor. Also if you measure the ends it will gap a little differently than the middle of blade since the doors don't clamp the blade with even pressure throughout."

The first part of your statement is true, because they don't know how to check them properly. The second I could explain is only half right but I'd have you and 9 different people come up with 10 different reasons.

"Note on reassembly if the place did it correctly they would have set it to the middle aka 5 setting before assembling the doors and pressing/tightening everything down. When you factor in the deviation if you do it from an end point aka 1 or 9 the gaps will deviate more than if you do it from the middle since there is less travel going from 5 to 1 or 5 to 9 as opposed to 1 to 9 or 9 to 1."

I only selected this to show ( in a nice respectable way) you don't really understand, what you are talking about on this subject. If you know what the correct gap for a single setting ie 1-9 you can set the gap correctly at any number (although I personally do not use bigger numbers) on the adj. knob each consecutive gap setting will follow continuously to the next gap (up or down) via the v-notches on the inside of the adjuster knob as the 'dimple' on clicker spring falls into place by design. The gap will not, "deviate more than if you do it from the middle since there is less travel going from 5 to 1 or 5 to 9 as opposed to 1 to 9 or 9 to 1." unless you have a weak/defective spring (bypasses v notch) or the spring is manually depressed and the knob is rotated aka over-clocked. With all that said, I work on these razors daily for over 4 years, with many happy customers, I've even done work for people such as Chris@ RP both personal and his related customers, I've never had one single complaint about my blade gap setting.

Second part is correct about the gap will change equally from one point to the next if the travel is the same which it should be. The thread rotation should be consistent in a single revolution regardless of the starting point. Precision is built into the adjuster knob based upon the fact the angle between any 2 adjustment points is equal because of the design. Blade gap settings are an approximate not an exact measurement based on feel. If I monkey the gauge I'll come up with something different than someone who doesn't. The precision is still there but accuracy is not and that was my point. The application doesn't require a high degree of accuracy anyways so a feeler gauge is good enough. The center out method is how I was taught how to calibrate things like dial indicators and such for the reasons stated.

Quick statement on precision vs. accuracy for everyone reading this to understand the difference. Precision is how repeatable a measurement is. Accuracy is how close to the actual value the measurement is. Using a gun analogy accurate would be all the shots hitting close to the center of the target, precise would be the shots are all closely spaced regardless of where on the target you hit. Precise and accurate whould the shots are all tightly spaced on the center on the target.

I am sure you do good work and all but as I stated that this one is on the customer not you. They should have used the razor first to establish a baseline before sending it out to be worked on. I can understand you taking the comments personally but it is still a he said, she said situation because of that.

 

[the maui life]

Second part is correct about the gap will change equally from one point to the next if the travel is the same which it should be. The thread rotation should be consistent in a single revolution regardless of the starting point. Precision is built into the adjuster knob based upon the fact the angle between any 2 adjustment points is equal because of the design. Blade gap settings are an approximate not an exact measurement based on feel. If I monkey the gauge I'll come up with something different than someone who doesn't. The precision is still there but accuracy is not and that was my point. The application doesn't require a high degree of accuracy anyways so a feeler gauge is good enough. The center out method is how I was taught how to calibrate things like dial indicators and such for the reasons stated.

Quick statement on precision vs. accuracy for everyone reading this to understand the difference. Precision is how repeatable a measurement is. Accuracy is how close to the actual value the measurement is. Using a gun analogy accurate would be all the shots hitting close to the center of the target, precise would be the shots are all closely spaced regardless of where on the target you hit. Precise and accurate whould the shots are all tightly spaced on the center on the target.

I am sure you do good work and all but as I stated that this one is on the customer not you. They should have used the razor first to establish a baseline before sending it out to be worked on. I can understand you taking the comments personally but it is still a he said, she said situation because of that.

My comets was directed to the misunderstand of your'er post and has nothing to do with the customer or any other posts on this thread, I'm just trying to clear out the misnomers that always clouds this subject ie blade gap.

"the adjuster knob based upon the fact the angle between any 2 adjustment points is equal because of the design." This is incorrect as the blade gap advancement is on a curve by design so the v-notch location changes a few thousands of an inch depending on the number.

As some may or may not know the adjustable gap was a bit different from each model ie the two types of bottom dials, 195, slim and the supers to name a few so, I'll use this example on a scale (average adjustment for adjustable's) you would have 1=.016 2=.020 3=.023 4=.026 5=.029 6=.032 7=.035 8=.038 9=.041 so now you can see the curve Gillette engineered into the blade gap.

I could explain how and where to check blade gap but I understand what you are saying about precision/accuracy measurement based on feel but a simple how to is pretty easy for anyone to understand.

 

[Avi]

Quick statement on precision vs. accuracy for everyone reading this to understand the difference. Precision is how repeatable a measurement is. Accuracy is how close to the actual value the measurement is. Using a gun analogy accurate would be all the shots hitting close to the center of the target, precise would be the shots are all closely spaced regardless of where on the target you hit. Precise and accurate whould the shots are all tightly spaced on the center on the target.

People creating numerical grades for comparison of razor blades etc with n=1 per test sample must drive you lunatic
regards
avi

 

[Sharp&Shiny]

Purchased my first Fatboy off the ‘Bay. It was in excellent condition to begin with (no major wear, original box/blades and all)... But before using it for the first time, I took it a step further, having it reconditioned and replated in its original metal by a reputable company.
They did an amazing job. It seriously looked and opened as if it was BRAND new. But then...there was the shave.
First off, I had the hardest time finding the right angle on milder settings. I found myself going over and over the same areas because nothing was happening.
So I dialed it up, higher and higher, but the only difference I noticed was that the blade just felt slightly “scratchier” at higher settings. No matter what I angle I used even with an aggressive blade, I couldn’t get the dern razor to effectively shave my coarse, thick stubble. I was doing five and six pass shaves and still ending with patchy areas.
For perspective, my daily driver is a Timeless .95 with one open comb side and one closed. It’s smooth and easy to knock down any amount of stubble with from almost any angle.
Is it possible that replating the Fatboy “neutered” it? Would it have added too much to the existing metal to allow for sufficient blade exposure? Or is it that this classic razor is just ridiculously mild at any setting?

Dumb question but did you tighten the razor past the slight resistance when closing it,a quarter turn, till the hard stop?

 

[kingfisher]

It is not hard to get a good shave with a fatboy. Something definitely is weird about this whole story.

 

[THall]

Dumb question but did you tighten the razor past the slight resistance when closing it,a quarter turn, till the hard stop?

Good point. That is not a dumb question at all, that could be the issue as well. If he never had a Gillette adjustable and did know about the quarter turn, heck that would cause that issue in spades. Depending on my razors, even the same Gillette adjustable model, that quarter turn can be a little tougher or easier.

 

[beddington]

It is not hard to get a good shave with a fatboy. Something definitely is weird about this whole story.

To be honest, the whole thing is getting to the point its fishier then the day old sushi you may have bought in a bait shop gas station last year in Tennessee.

few people have the brains to realize that removing a weeks worth of soap buildup will change how the razor goes together. Its why Gillette had ya open the razor a bit and put it under running water. Something a lot of people don't bother with these days.

And seems numbnuts are forgetting the old try and true method captain murphy talked about in a few videos, put the razor on a setting, put that number of razor blades in, and if it closes correctly.. its calibrated