Diary of a NOVICE SR user…

[RicoSuave]

Chapter II - “The Carpet Bag” : “I stuffed a shirt or two into my old carpet-bag, tucked it under my arm, and started for Cape Horn and the Pacific…”

Damn, when does this damn “white whale” show up?

My apologies to those many fans waiting with baited breath for the next installment of my novice SR diary.

In all honesty, I haven’t had much practice due to my wanting to get the hell out of my humid bathroom during this obscenely humid summer.

That said, I realize that the major obstacle to my joining the rare, but noble, aggregation of SR shavers is…, HONING.

Granted, I wouldn’t be shaving with a SR every day, but even if used a few times a months, my understanding is that the blade still needs honing on a REGULAR basis, even if using a strop.

I contacted “Razor Emporium” and they mentioned a fee of $30, before shipping, per honing, so if I were to get their starter kit of a “Gold Dollar” blade with a strop, my expenses for honing with outstrip what I spent on the set within a year. I mentioned a bulk discount to them, to no avail.

So, if I were to take on the role of honing my blade myself, that’s ANOTHER learning curve to climb, plus the expense of buying stones, a rather discouraging prospect.

So, what opine you, gents, esp. you SR aficionados?

Thanks!

 

[rbscebu]

To avoid the expense of stones, you have at least two options:

1. Lapping Films

​

Provided that you are not honing tens or more SR's per year, lapping films make a very economical alternative to whetstones. Once a blade is honed to shave-ready on lapping films and stropped on leather before each use, it will just need a refresh on the lapping films about every two or three months. A lapping film setup should cost you about USD 50.​

​

2. Diamond Pasted Balsa Strops

​

If you have your SR professionally honed (without tape on the spine) by someone who knows what they are doing, it only needs to be maintained on diamond pasted balsa strops for the rest of its/your life. A set of diamond pasted balsa strops should set you back a little over USD 50.​

​

I did not have reasonable access to a professional honer so I went down the lapping film path. After a few tries and finishing on 1μm film gave me a very shavable edge. I then moved onto diamond pasted balsa strops (0.5μm, 0.25μm & 0.1μm). They gave the perfect edge.

I now just give an edge about 50 or 60 laps on a 0.1μm diamond pasted hanging balsa strop after each shave and I have that perfect edge each and every shave. The blade never needs to touch a stone or film again.

Later, if you are so inclined, you can venture into the whetstone rabbit hole.

 

[rbscebu]

Here is what I do if I get an SR that needs a bevel set:

1. Start setting the bevel using a 1k synthetic and finish it up on 4k and then 10k synthesis. (This could also be done on lapping films but I now have the stones, so why not.) Don't forget your pull strokes
2. Using lapping films, progress from about 7μm down to 1μm. Don't forget your pull strokes.
3. Now using diamond pasted balsa strops, 100 laps on 0.5μm, 60 laps on 0 25μm, 60 laps on 0.1μm and finishing with 60 laps on 0.1μm hanging balsa strop. Don't forget your pull strokes and short X strokes.
4. 60 laps on a clean leather strop and shave.
5. After the shave, 60 laps on a 0.1μm hanging balsa strop. Don't forget your short X strokes.
6. For each subsequent shave, repeat steps 4 and 5.

 

[RicoSuave]

To avoid the expense of stones, you have at least two options:

1. Lapping Films

​

Provided that you are not honing tens or more SR's per year, lapping films make a very economical alternative to whetstones. Once a blade is honed to shave-ready on lapping films and stropped on leather before each use, it will just need a refresh on the lapping films about every two or three months. A lapping film setup should cost you about USD 50.​

​

2. Diamond Pasted Balsa Strops

​

If you have your SR professionally honed (without tape on the spine) by someone who knows what they are doing, it only needs to be maintained on diamond pasted balsa strops for the rest of its/your life. A set of diamond pasted balsa strops should set you back a little over USD 50.​

​

I did not have reasonable access to a professional honer so I went down the lapping film path. After a few tries and finishing on 1μm film gave me a very shavable edge. I then moved onto diamond pasted balsa strops (0.5μm, 0.25μm & 0.1μm). They gave the perfect edge.

I now just give an edge about 50 or 60 laps on a 0.1μm diamond pasted hanging balsa strop after each shave and I have that perfect edge each and every shave. The blade never needs to touch a stone or film again.

Later, if you are so inclined, you can venture into the whetstone rabbit hole.

Thanks for your INFORMED opinion, brother “rbscebu!”

If you would allow me to pick your brain further -

1. Would you choose a “Gold Dollar” as your FIRST SR, or a “Ralf Aust” as others have suggested?

2. As a newbie SR user, how likely am I to cause PERMANENT damage to either blade using the diamond strops?

3. Do most at home SR users use lapping films/diamond strops, instead of stones?

Thx!

 

[rbscebu]

Thanks for your INFORMED opinion, brother “rbscebu!”

If you would allow me to pick your brain further -

1. Would you choose a “Gold Dollar” as your FIRST SR, or a “Ralf Aust” as others have suggested?

2. As a newbie SR user, how likely am I to cause PERMANENT damage to either blade using the diamond strops?

3. Do most at home SR users use lapping films/diamond strops, instead of stones?

Thx!

For a first SR, I would buy a decent Gold Dollar (take @Slash McCoy's recommendation on which one) or a Titan ACRM T.H.60. Either should cost you well under USD 30 plus shipping. These SR's will not normally come shave-ready unless bought from a retailer who is known on B&B to reputably provide such a service. If shave-ready, expect to pay more for that service.

A Ralf Aust SR is also good but much more expensive and may come shave-ready or may need some more work to get it there.

If your budget permits, get a Raft Aust shave-ready and a not-shave-ready Gold Dollar or the Titan. You can then develop your honing skills on the GD or Titan while developing your SR shaving technique with the Ralf Aust. The shave-ready Ralf Aust can be kept maintained just by pre-shave stropping on clean leather puss diamond pasted balsa stropping post shave.

If you fully follow the instruction to the letter on using diamond pasted balsa strops, it will be almost impossible to cause any permanent damage to an SR.

I have no idea on the numbers but I suspect that now more new SR users on B&B are starting out on lapping films/balsa strop's than starting out directly onto whetstones. The reason for this is probably because of much lower initial financial outlay and the availability of detailed written steps on how to achieve the best results. You can always go down the whetstone rabbit hole when you are inclined and have the budget.

Remember that if you are going to use lapping films and/or balsa strops, ensure that all honing on your SR(s) is done without tape.

 

[Slash McCoy]

For some, the lighter commitment level of a shavette makes it a more attractive entry. As for the shave, when you compare a good shavette to a Method edge on a straight razor, there is actually a lot of similarity. When your straight razor is sharper than most DE blades, it does shave a lot like a shavette. You use the same low, low shave angle. Stretching is still just as important and a lapse means another blood libation to the shave gods. Make no mistake-- a straight razor is still going to give you a more comfortable shave, if you start out on the right foot with a better than professional edge. But the difference is not so hyooooge as it is between shavette and a more pedestrian edge like you get from most vendors. TBH, an individual is more likely to spend the time to cultivate a near perfect Method edge than some guy running a busy shop. So getting PIF-ed a well broken in and well maintained razor from a member is the ideal situation. The ordinary professional grade edge on a straight razor does indeed widen the gap betwen the straight razor and the shavette.

If you get one of the swing-back type half-DE blade shavettes with the teardrop shape cutouts in the scales, those can be very cheap and they do a pretty good job. By very cheap I mean down around the $2 mark. Then you have the Dovo Shavette (TM) shavette, the namesake of the term, and others like the Parker with a wide following. A big big jump up in price and workmanship is the Feather AC lineup of folders and kamisori types, in the mild SS type and the badass AC type that will punish you instantly for a lapse in concentration. One is a Buick Roadmaster, powerful but sedate and comfortable. The other is a Shelby Cobra, racy and responsive, but requiring the attention of a jet fighter pilot. But the new upstart kid on the block, now that the patents have all expired, are the many Chinese knockoffs of the AC shavettes. As a bonus, some use the Feather long blade but some others use the half DE blade. This is WAY more economical, and you can use the same blade in your DE razor. Quality control is all over the board, sometimes you get one that performs like its Japanese cousin but for 1/6 the price, sometimes you get what you pay for. Or rather, don't get what you didn't pay for. But I kind of like those knockoffs anyway. And the price of the genuine article should come down a bit from the fierce competition, so that's a good thing.

The main thing for getting best results from a shavette is seeing that the blade is properly mounted. It's all about blade exposure and a good solid lockup with no play or wiggle room. Then it's simply a matter of keeping the shave angle dead low, and the stretching very tight.

 

[Robert Anderson]

This razor is a clone that comes with 10 no name blades. Folding Razor w/ Pack of 10 Blades-RF29-RF29 - https://shearsdirect.com/Folding-Razor-w-Pack-of-10-Blades-RF29_p_2899.html

It is a way to get the experience of shaving with a straight without all of the honing and stropping. I found using it to be very similar to using a traditional straight razor. Did not really need to change my technique. It can bite you if you are not paying attention.

 

[RicoSuave]

For some, the lighter commitment level of a shavette makes it a more attractive entry. As for the shave, when you compare a good shavette to a Method edge on a straight razor, there is actually a lot of similarity. When your straight razor is sharper than most DE blades, it does shave a lot like a shavette. You use the same low, low shave angle. Stretching is still just as important and a lapse means another blood libation to the shave gods. Make no mistake-- a straight razor is still going to give you a more comfortable shave, if you start out on the right foot with a better than professional edge. But the difference is not so hyooooge as it is between shavette and a more pedestrian edge like you get from most vendors. TBH, an individual is more likely to spend the time to cultivate a near perfect Method edge than some guy running a busy shop. So getting PIF-ed a well broken in and well maintained razor from a member is the ideal situation. The ordinary professional grade edge on a straight razor does indeed widen the gap betwen the straight razor and the shavette.

If you get one of the swing-back type half-DE blade shavettes with the teardrop shape cutouts in the scales, those can be very cheap and they do a pretty good job. By very cheap I mean down around the $2 mark. Then you have the Dovo Shavette (TM) shavette, the namesake of the term, and others like the Parker with a wide following. A big big jump up in price and workmanship is the Feather AC lineup of folders and kamisori types, in the mild SS type and the badass AC type that will punish you instantly for a lapse in concentration. One is a Buick Roadmaster, powerful but sedate and comfortable. The other is a Shelby Cobra, racy and responsive, but requiring the attention of a jet fighter pilot. But the new upstart kid on the block, now that the patents have all expired, are the many Chinese knockoffs of the AC shavettes. As a bonus, some use the Feather long blade but some others use the half DE blade. This is WAY more economical, and you can use the same blade in your DE razor. Quality control is all over the board, sometimes you get one that performs like its Japanese cousin but for 1/6 the price, sometimes you get what you pay for. Or rather, don't get what you didn't pay for. But I kind of like those knockoffs anyway. And the price of the genuine article should come down a bit from the fierce competition, so that's a good thing.

The main thing for getting best results from a shavette is seeing that the blade is properly mounted. It's all about blade exposure and a good solid lockup with no play or wiggle room. Then it's simply a matter of keeping the shave angle dead low, and the stretching very tight.

Thanks for the TIPS, sir!

I do inherently believe there to be a SIGNIFICANT difference between using a shavette vs. a SR, in that a SR’s weight will assist in a shave, whereas a shavette’s relatively LIGHT weight would require one to add PRESSURE, which could lead to the “blood libation to the shave gods,” as you so elegantly put it.

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

Like you, I started with a half DE shavette and later (about 6 months and 150 shaves) transitioned to a straight. My transition to a SR was not easy or pleasant to start with, as the first razors I bought were far from shave-ready. I learned the hard way to hone and maintain an edge, but after discovering diamond pasted balsa strops things got a lot better very quickly.

Looking back, there is a lot to be said for learning with a shavette, because you are initially just learning to shave. Believe me when I say that if you can comfortably shave with a shavette, a truly shave-ready SR is a walk in the park.

After shaving with various shavettes and a lot of different SR's I can definitely recommend a Father AC SS for a first razor. Whether the real deal or the clone (very similar in my experience), they are more forgiving than a half DE shavette and you can make it even easier by starting with the guarded blades and work your way up as you gain confidence.

Another remark you made about the razor blocking your view - I had the same issue, and although not traditional, changed the way I hold my razor. I hold it open 180 degrees and use it like a kamisori on most of my face.