I had a link for you in my original post #4. I thought I lost it when I edited the post, but it looks like a mod got a hold of it.
Do a search for forums that address your specific hand gun. I think you'll find some answers there.
Don
Detail strip PDF?
- Thread starter stone and strop
- Start date
I had a link for you in my original post #4. I thought I lost it when I edited the post, but it looks like a mod got a hold of it.
Do a search for forums that address your specific hand gun. I think you'll find some answers there.
Don
I'm a big smiley face backplate guy myself! With the added inscription; "Have A Nice Day!
I got some e-mail from Natalia with a link to her pictures of a detailed strip.
Most manufacturing manuals for striker fired pistols, specifically state to keep all type lubricants out of the channels. Ordinary dirt and fouling from gunpowder residues, have a hard time finding it's way into the striker channel on it's own. And when it does, the movement of the pin and striker spring can actually act as a self cleaning instrument to rid the channel of loose powder and residue AS, long as it's fairly dry.
However, Incorporate a CLP? Pistol owners who clean and spray and scrub their slides top and bottom with CLP every single range outing? For just a couple of hundred rounds? And then after they have wiped down dry, the outside of that slide from the CLP they sprayed to clean it? And then use more CLP to lube the barrel? Lugs? Rails? I wonder where all that CLP run off travels to?
The striker pin channel? The firing pin safety? The depressor plunger spring? The extractor? Every time someone cleans a striker fired pistol, there is going to be, remnants of unseen residues from firing, mixed with whatever cleaner is being used and little by little, is seeping it's way and creeping into these various fundamental working parts of a striker fired pistol.
So, the more you clean it, the less to worry about? Not necessarily so. Yes, the outside portions of my unclean and neglected Glocks outside of slide, frame and barrel look dirty and grungy. But I'll put the major working components of my Glocks firing pin channel, safety plunger, extractor etc, etc? Against any others, who well clean and well lube their Glocks every single time they go shoot a couple of hundred rounds at the range, but matched with mine of the number of round count and the times the pistol has been fired.
So my 3,000 rounds against someone else's 3,000 rounds, and I have cleaned my pistol once every 1500 and they have cleaned theirs every 200 rounds? Detail strip them both down, and I would bet by the pistol, the "external portions" of their pistol will be much cleaner than mine, but the "internal working mechanisms" of mine will be much cleaner then theirs.
But I will still throw out a "YMMV" you know, for posterity.
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Preach it Rev. Rob! LOL 
I'm a big smiley face backplate guy myself! With the added inscription; "Have A Nice Day!
Actually, makes you wonder if such things draw the eye ... Could be a distraction.
AA
Fortunately almost all of my striker fired pistols have an open channel and can be wiped down with a dry patch and small screwdriver or chopstick. Normal cleaning involves taking out the striker, spring and retainer pin.Most manufacturing manuals for striker fired pistols, specifically state to keep all type lubricants out of the channels. Ordinary dirt and fouling from gunpowder residues, have a hard time finding it's way into the striker channel on it's own. And when it does, the movement of the pin and striker spring can actually act as a self cleaning instrument to rid the channel of loose powder and residue AS, long as it's fairly dry.
However, Incorporate a CLP? Pistol owners who clean and spray and scrub their slides top and bottom with CLP every single range outing? For just a couple of hundred rounds? And then after they have wiped down dry, the outside of that slide from the CLP they sprayed to clean it? And then use more CLP to lube the barrel? Lugs? Rails? I wonder where all that CLP run off travels to?
The striker pin channel? The firing pin safety? The depressor plunger spring? The extractor? Every time someone cleans a striker fired pistol, there is going to be, remnants of unseen residues from firing, mixed with whatever cleaner is being used and little by little, is seeping it's way and creeping into these various fundamental working parts of a striker fired pistol.
So, the more you clean it, the less to worry about? Not necessarily so. Yes, the outside portions of my unclean and neglected Glocks outside of slide, frame and barrel look dirty and grungy. But I'll put the major working components of my Glocks firing pin channel, safety plunger, extractor etc, etc? Against any others, who well clean and well lube their Glocks every single time they go shoot a couple of hundred rounds at the range, but matched with mine of the number of round count and the times the pistol has been fired.
So my 3,000 rounds against someone else's 3,000 rounds, and I have cleaned my pistol once every 1500 and they have cleaned theirs every 200 rounds? Detail strip them both down, and I would bet by the pistol, the "external portions" of their pistol will be much cleaner than mine, but the "internal working mechanisms" of mine will be much cleaner then theirs.
But I will still throw out a "YMMV" you know, for posterity.
Of course none of them are Glocks.
I agree with you. Normal cleaning should entail taking out the striker and cleaning the channel. However, that also entails detail stripping the pistol by most.
So, is field stripping a pistol something we do at home? Or only in the field? We know what field stripping is, but why and when should we field strip? And what all should be done when field stripping?
if I take a pistol out to the range and say shoot 500 rounds thru it, but I know I’m going out again the next day to shoot 500 more? I will field strip the pistol, and swab the inside of the barrel with CLP. But I Will only take a dry stiff brush to the under belly of the slide. If I lubricate, I will only use a Q-Tip with CLP on it to lightly rub on the rails and block. I never lube any springs. Springs always work amazing dry, no reason to gum up springs with lube. Once the pistol is back together, it will get a wipe down and then it’s ready to go to the range again the next day.
So I go again to the range the next day for another 500 rounds of fun. Other then swabbing out the barrel and wiping it down the day before, my pistol had 1000 rounds of fouling thru it in 2 days. So when I go home that night, I already know that particular pistol will be cleaned and put into the safe, maybe for several months before getting touched again?
I detail strip that pistol and soak every single part of the gun with CLP and scrub it clean. The striker and channel will get soaked and scrubbed. The extractor and channel will get soaked and scrubbed. The trigger, trigger box including the trigger bar, crucible, springs and all will be soaked with CLP and cleaned. And then it will all be dried. By the time I’m done cleaning it, and wiping it down, there won’t be any wet CLP anywhere on that pistol.
if this same cleaning was done only by field stripping? Everything inside the internals of that pistol would be soaking wet with CLP And probably mixed with carbon and powder residue which ran in there with the CLP when cleaning.
Now that my pistol has been completely disassembled, cleaned and dried, it is ready to take another Q-Tip and lightly rub CLP on the barrel lug, slide rails and any other strategic location on the pistol my heart desires. Put it back together and put it up until next time.
I have seen plenty of people hose their guns down with CLP shake it out and run it wet and their pistols still work in spite of them. Pistols have an amazing ability to be more reliable then we are.
So, is field stripping a pistol something we do at home? Or only in the field? We know what field stripping is, but why and when should we field strip? And what all should be done when field stripping?
if I take a pistol out to the range and say shoot 500 rounds thru it, but I know I’m going out again the next day to shoot 500 more? I will field strip the pistol, and swab the inside of the barrel with CLP. But I Will only take a dry stiff brush to the under belly of the slide. If I lubricate, I will only use a Q-Tip with CLP on it to lightly rub on the rails and block. I never lube any springs. Springs always work amazing dry, no reason to gum up springs with lube. Once the pistol is back together, it will get a wipe down and then it’s ready to go to the range again the next day.
So I go again to the range the next day for another 500 rounds of fun. Other then swabbing out the barrel and wiping it down the day before, my pistol had 1000 rounds of fouling thru it in 2 days. So when I go home that night, I already know that particular pistol will be cleaned and put into the safe, maybe for several months before getting touched again?
I detail strip that pistol and soak every single part of the gun with CLP and scrub it clean. The striker and channel will get soaked and scrubbed. The extractor and channel will get soaked and scrubbed. The trigger, trigger box including the trigger bar, crucible, springs and all will be soaked with CLP and cleaned. And then it will all be dried. By the time I’m done cleaning it, and wiping it down, there won’t be any wet CLP anywhere on that pistol.
if this same cleaning was done only by field stripping? Everything inside the internals of that pistol would be soaking wet with CLP And probably mixed with carbon and powder residue which ran in there with the CLP when cleaning.
Now that my pistol has been completely disassembled, cleaned and dried, it is ready to take another Q-Tip and lightly rub CLP on the barrel lug, slide rails and any other strategic location on the pistol my heart desires. Put it back together and put it up until next time.
I have seen plenty of people hose their guns down with CLP shake it out and run it wet and their pistols still work in spite of them. Pistols have an amazing ability to be more reliable then we are.
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I have been to S&W Factory Armorer School.
I have been to Beretta Factory Armorer School.
My advice?
Unless you have been afforded the training to properly de-construct the firearm you plan on tearing apart....don't!!
Unless of course you think do-it-yourself brain surgery is great fun.
For what it's worth....I have my buddy (a factory schooled Glock Armorer) get into the bowels of my Glocks if/when necessary. I believe in keeping one's own counsel
I have been to Beretta Factory Armorer School.
My advice?
Unless you have been afforded the training to properly de-construct the firearm you plan on tearing apart....don't!!
Unless of course you think do-it-yourself brain surgery is great fun.
For what it's worth....I have my buddy (a factory schooled Glock Armorer) get into the bowels of my Glocks if/when necessary. I believe in keeping one's own counsel
Fortunately most of my striker fired pistols are old and simple and so accessing the striker, spring and channel are all part of normal field strip procedures. Here's my Ortgies, a pretty typical 1920s design showing the simple field strip status.
Even the barrel simple swivels to come out.
There are only 28 pieces parts all told including all the springs and pins.
Even the barrel simple swivels to come out.
There are only 28 pieces parts all told including all the springs and pins.
I find most striker fired pistols very easy to totally disassemble and reassemble with no other tool accept a punch.
- Thread starter
- #33
This is the good reasoning to detail strip. Sure, it still may perform fine soaked in CLP but it is better to have them parts wiped down after proper cleaning then reassembled.
I must admit to being too lazy and just using a spray cleaner from time to time, instead of a proper detail strip and clean. Not the best solution, always leaves some residue.
I always fear crud-under-extractor. And feel lazy when I just brass brush this ... Yet I do avoid the over lube, except for P08. They run wet, Ballistol preferred!
AA
AA
I do this exact same thing more often than not. We both know better, but I just can’t make myself do it. At least I already said, “don’t use me as an example.”
- Thread starter
- #38
I have found these so far,
for 1911 format,
For a Hk VP9
www.hkpro.com
for 1911 format,
1911 Disassembly
www.coolgunsite.com
For a Hk VP9
How to detail strip a VP9
I have found these so far,
for 1911 format,
1911 Disassembly
www.coolgunsite.com
For a Hk VP9
How to detail strip a VP9
I Honestly think, you will be just fine @stone and strop, sitting down at the table with your new M&P, putting your laptop in front of you and watching someone on youtube, walk you thru a detailed disassemble and reassemble of your M&P Long Slide. You can pause and repeat at will. Have fun with your new firearm. Learning and knowing it like the back of your hand is not only part of that fun, but it will also booster your confidence when shooting it by knowing exactly the how's and why's of it's operation.
- Thread starter
- #40
I Honestly think, you will be just fine @stone and strop, sitting down at the table with your new M&P, putting your laptop in front of you and watching someone on youtube, walk you thru a detailed disassemble and reassemble of your M&P Long Slide. You can pause and repeat at will. Have fun with your new firearm. Learning and knowing it like the back of your hand is not only part of that fun, but it will also booster your confidence when shooting it by knowing exactly the how's and why's of it's operation.
Its what will probably happen if I can't find one.
I'm not one to sit through unnecessarily long you tube videos though (which so many are) so maybe I should ask for a straight forward video of such things instead?
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