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DE VS Straight Guide....NECROPOST

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DE or Straight Razor?

Well just a touch of background info before I delve into this topic head first. I started out, right from Gillette Mach III, right to a Pearlex handled Dovo 5/8th’s straight razor. No instruction, no background knowledge, and no real knowledge of honing & stropping. RIGHT off the bat I began getting superior shaves (to my mach III) – threw out my Mach III and never looked back. I purchased a straight razor, as the Mach III gave me terrible irritation, ingrown hairs, and just plumb didn’t provide me with a close shave… unless I REALLY wanted to put my skin thru a beating to get it. I liked the idea of having a setup that was wholly self reliant, and would be a permanent solution to my woe’s – without having to purchase new blades, worry about them discontinuing the razor handle/blades, etc. Not only was it practical in my eyes – but it had an incredibly manly “bad ***” appeal to it…. I was hooked.
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About a month or two after having shaved with a straight razor my roommate at the time was quite interested in all this wet shaving hubbub, and decided to purchase a Merkur Futur, Col. Conk pure badger brush, and some Col. Conk soap. When it arrived, he was terrified to try it, as once he saw the “raw blade” that would be put up against his face, he pushed it towards me and suggested I try it first, since I had been shaving with a straight razor – this would be second nature. Well the first stroke I took with this razor loaded with a Merkur blade, I thought to myself “Damn, I must be doing this wrong, as I didn’t hear/feel this *** cut a damn thing.” Well – I touched the area, and stopped dead….. holy crap! Not only did it shave that area, but it was the closest I had ever experienced. A few minutes later, I had experienced a shave that simply embarrassed the Dovo Pearlex’s performance in terms comfort, closeness, quality, consistency, and ease of performance.
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Long experience short – I realized my straight razor was not nearly as sharp as it could, and should be. After acquiring a plethora of straight razors, hones, pasted strops, razors honed by “pro’s” I finally got it down, and was eventually able to get superior, longer lasting shaves with straight razors, but it took quite a hefty dedication of time, effort, discomfort, and money.
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So why use a straight razor?
Well it is my opinion and experience, that NOTHING, let me repeat, NOTHING will provide a closer, more comfortable shave than a properly honed straight razor. To hell with wacky gimmicky Feather Straight razors, Merkur Visions, Slant Bars, etc – the right straight razor will deliver them all a hefty plate of comeuppance. I also liken the straight razor to piloting a sports car with a manual transmission thru a volley of twisty mountain roads versus a double edge as romping thru the twisties in an auto-tranny 1960’s muscle car. Fun, but not too elegant, a bit clunky, not to precise, and surely no “passion” or excitement involved. The straight razor is an experience, a journey with a tremendous amount of personal satisfaction and accomplishment at the wheel. Many have/will try a straight razor and quit. Quite frankly, it is not a tool for everyone… heck for most people.
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So if a straight razor is so good, why use a DE?
Well – compared to modern methods of shaving, a DE is leaps and bounds ahead of the pack. It is lest costly to operate, more fun, provides a significantly closer shave than the alternatives, with zero irritation (when done properly) and dramatically cuts down on ingrown hairs. There is also a very short learning curve; ridiculously inexpensive, incredibly sharp blades readily available (hear the toll of the convenience bell ringing?). You get up in the morning, lather up, run the thing around your face, end of story. When a blade gets dull – to the waste bin it goes. Simple, easy, cut and dry. A DE is simply a tool with which to mow facial hair. A Straight is more of an ornamental piece of history/art. Think a TV Dinner VS a home cooked meal.
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Now I am confused… so what do I do?
Personally I use both, but without question use a DE more frequently. 8 out of 10 times I shave I use a DE, as it is just so quick and easy and works wonderfully. Straight razors I relegate to special occasions, times when I have a large block of time in the morning, or when I am just in the “mood” for a straight razor shave.
I personally feel that if you were weaned on a DE razor, you have a greatly diminished chance of being successful with a straight razor. If your current DE methods are providing you with outstanding shaves, you will be quickly deterred by the seemingly “mediocre” results you will achieve with the straight razor for a month – possibly MONTHS. By “cleaning up” with a DE after shaving with a straight, you cheat yourself for learning the areas that need more work, change how the hair is cut, etc and will never be truly happy with your straight razor shaves. To give it a go, means switching to a straight razor for UP TO 2-3 months depending on how quickly you pick it up, the razor, strop, your stropping abilities, how sharp the razor is, etc. Most guy who have switched to DE’s and are happy with their routine, cannot/will not sacrifice the quality of their shaves for a day, let alone month(s) to learn a new method – so for most of you who fall into this category, unless you have a DEEP desire, I recommend not taking the plunge.
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Well I want to try a straight razor – what about a Feather?
Don’t. Listen, just don’t. Few things in the realm of shaving have been so “on and off” than this damn feather. I have packs of blades that are incredibly inconsistent (some will rip your face off and turn your visage into a blood bath and others will work wonders). The feather is also incredibly boring to use, much more so than a double edge. Also – due to the sharpness of this razor, it is SOOO easy to cut yourself time and time again. I got to the point where I was receiving wonderful, consistent shaves, and then every so often I’d get a blade that would just literally SHRED my face, which ruins the whole experience. As you can see from my SOTD’s, I just about never use the thing anymore. Some guys really enjoy them – they are good for certain gents I suppose, and they will provide a shave on par (closeness) with a straight razor, but the closeness of the shave will not last as long as a bona fide straight razor.
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Synopsis…
What do you want out of your shaving experience - Fun? Comfort? Efficacy? Self-sufficiency? Economy? Convenience? The simple fact of the matter is an outstanding DE shave is going to be about on par with a straight razor shave, but the straight razor shave will have more “lasting power.” If you are happy with your current DE regime I wouldn’t really suggest you deviate unless you have some major burr that needs cleansing :scared: I personally feel the straight razor EXPERIENCE is superior to that of a double edge across the bar, save for “Convenience” – but not so superior that we should prod the masses to swap their trusty DE’s for straight razors.
 
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Nice piece, Joel. I was thinking of picking up a feather for myself this holiday season. Now you have me thinking. :001_unsur
 
roughrider said:
Yeah, I am sort of confused from reading your review of the Feather and now this guide. Is it the Feather blades? :confused:


http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=236

On SMF I had posted that for a week or so, I had gotten miserable shaves, even posted pics of my bloodied face. I changed the blade, and all seemed well. The blades last quite some time, so at the time of that review, I had been using the effecitve blade. Several others have commented on the "off and on" feather blades, in that some work magic, others are the devil in disguise. When it is loaded with a "magic" blade, then the thing works magic... but even then in that review, I still state it is "simply function" and make the comparison of it being a honda accord, VS a bona fide straight being a porsche 911s. The BIG thing for me is consistancy, and with the feathers, it is somewhat luck of the draw. I have about 4 boxes of feather blades, 2 of them are perfect (thus far) and 2 are VERY spotty, all purchased at the same time (clandestinely thru classicshaving.com) From my experience it appears as though the Super Pro's are the best, however I have gotten one bad Super Pro blade as well.

I dunno if some of us just happen to get a bad batch, but it has REALLY turned me off of the feather, as walking around with a face full of little scabs and nicks is not very plesant, especially when EVERYONE asks what happened to you! I am somewhat soured with the Feather experience, and I have a feeling that thing will end up in the for sale section eventually. When it works - boy oh boy does it work, but it isn't better than a few of my straight razors, and i'll take a little bit of stropping and honing over blood any day.
 
roughrider said:
Also, how would you compare the Dorko to the Bismarck? Which do you find better and why?


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Dorko is superior by far. Better quality (fit and finish) FAR superior shaver, better looking, better balance, a bit of history behind it.

Unfortunatly when moving SOMEHOW the Dorko's blade managed to slide up against something and it dulled the thing out, and screwed up the shaving edge. It badly needs a trip on a 2K, 4K then 8K Norton, but since I sold my nortons, I think I am going to have to sell this dorko :mad: It is especially annoying since Lynn had actually honed this one up, and he had remarked that this razor in particular was one of the BEST razors he has ever shaved with.

:cursing: :c3: :mad2:
 
Greetings Joel!

Excellent guide and beautiful collection of razors! I agree that shaving with a straight razor does commit one to setting aside more time for shaving and maintaining their equipment. It will also require patience, and an investment of both time and money.

I would comment that If an individual has experience with properly sharpening finer edges like hand plane blades, chisels etc., the transition to properly honing a straight razor should be pain free. Yes, pun intended. :redface: I'm assuming you will do your homework, and receive guidance and instruction from someone who knows what they're doing.

If, after reading Joel's guide, anyone still wants to give it a try, please make your interest known in the B&B Straight Razor Forum. One of us should be able to make it possible for you to try with a shave-ready razor. Do not, I repeat DO NOT simply pick up your grandfather's old razor or an eBay purchase and try to shave with it; Most likely you have a very unpleasant experience. Even new razors are rarely shave ready.
 
I am getting set up to have a go at using a straight (well, I have a couple that have been prepared by honemeisters on the way along with some other accessories) and really enjoyed reading this article.

Great job!
 
Scotto said:
Nice piece, Joel. I was thinking of picking up a feather for myself this holiday season. Now you have me thinking. :001_unsur
You need to try it for yourself. Many of us love it and have never had a bad time after learning ti use it. I have to say Joel's is the only case where I've heard of someone having a problem after getting good at it. It happened to me once, but then I noticed i had nicked the blade and didn't realize it.

It's also pretty generally acknowledged that the Feather shave is at least as close as a str8, given competence on both.

Then, if closeness is your real interest, str8 may not be the answer. I have found that a slant, a Futur and a Vision equiped with a Feather blade all shave at least as close as a str8 and the slant and Futur shave closer.
 
Joel, why did you sell the Nortons? What do you hone with now?
I still got mine, I could give it a go-around if you'd like. I am not claiming to be a honing god, but I would give it my best shot.
 
Laz in Tampa said:
Joel, why did you sell the Nortons? What do you hone with now?
I still got mine, I could give it a go-around if you'd like. I am not claiming to be a honing god, but I would give it my best shot.

Laz,
Well - I decided I had every straight razor i'd ever want, and that there would be no need for me to ever need to honing power of a Norton, so I *thought* my array of barber hones, and green pasted stop would be more than sufficient for maintaining the edge of my blades.... then this happens :c3:

I might have to take you up on the honing offer... although the ONE thing I'd LOVE to have honed is one of my TI's, as I have never had one that could shave worth a damn, no matter what I did with it. I had one of the SRP "honemasters" hone one for me, and it arrived back to me worse off than what I had it at. :eek:
 
Joel, I don't know, I got a honed razor from you and it was excellent, and a stainless no less.

I guess I must have lucked out with the TIs I have. They were great out of the box, all I had to do was strop (and a little on the .25 micron strop for good measure). Well I'm getting one used now (shave-ready) and we'll see how it works out.
 
joel said:
Laz,
Well - I decided I had every straight razor i'd ever want, and that there would be no need for me to ever need to honing power of a Norton, so I *thought* my array of barber hones, and green pasted stop would be more than sufficient for maintaining the edge of my blades.... then this happens :c3:

I might have to take you up on the honing offer... although the ONE thing I'd LOVE to have honed is one of my TI's, as I have never had one that could shave worth a damn, no matter what I did with it. I had one of the SRP "honemasters" hone one for me, and it arrived back to me worse off than what I had it at. :eek:


PM me if ya want me to take a crack at it. I won't mind doing both. For you, I'll only charge ya a "Thanks", haha. For an inexpensive way of restoring edges, try the 3M microgrit adhesive backed paper on some glass, marble, whatever is flat. The grits are 1000, 4000, 8000. Should only be a couple of bucks for a sheet or two of each grit.

I gotta say one thing about you, Joel, you say whats on your mind no matter who it PO's. :thumbsup: I dont think you are the only person to ever have problems with a TI, but I do believe you are the only one to admit it in public! Maybe others are afraid of the razor police will arrest them, so they just keep quiet! hahaha.

PM me for my address/phone number if you want me to try honing those two.
 
Ya know, I am past that point of caring. It seems no matter what I do, someone seems to get pissed off. Latest is a supposed friend who got mad over some rules I drafted (for politeness and proper netiquitte) and then posted (after other mods approved it) on Yahoo Straight Razors. He blasted me quite good, and quit the group. Funny thing is, the rules posted were not even directed at him (at least that time).

So I do what I feel is best, and if someone doesn't like it, oh well. Sometimes I even pack up my razors and go home, and not even look back. And that burns people, too. The fact I can walk away and not come crawling back a few months later, begging to be let in.

So I do what I feel is best for that particular group I am in, and sometimes there is conflict, most of the time there is not. Like the late great Ricky Nelson sang-- "You can't please everyone, so ya gotta please yourself."
 
joel,

appreciate the info- i had been dreaming about eventually going to the straight but after reading your guide, i think i'll stay right where i am- except for buying some feather blades 2 try in the vision(heh,heh,heh)


nice piece of work!:thumbup1:

marty
 
I'm still very much a newbie, but my perspective is that DE shaving and straight shaving are mutually enriching practices. I have the impression that each has taught me things about, and improved my skills with, the other.

My first DE razor was a Vision, which was probably a bit aggressive for a newbie, then a couple of Merkurs (a Nickel and an HD). I have recently started using straights (a Dovo Pearlex and a Rand Rocket shavette-style razor with various DE blades). I am sure that if I had gone from the M3 to the straight, then I would have cut my face clean off (with the Vision I got close a few times...). As it was, over the course of these past months, I have learned how it feels to shave with a single blade, what it sounds like; through trial and error, I have learned about blade angle and pressure. This has meant that I have some good instincts and reference points with the straight, and - although I don't get that close yet - I'm not doing too much damage as I learn. At the same time, using the straight has taught me a lot about angles and pressure as well, knowledge that has - I"m sure - improved my technique with the DE. For the last couple of days, for example, I've been away from home, using my DE, and have had great shaves (by the way, just this morning I used the Vision for the first time in a while and am reminded what a fantastic razor it is).

The shavette has been useful, but I suspect that they are actually more dangerous than a straight. Twice I cut myself quite badly (by stupidly 'resting' the blade on my face while trying to get a good position and angle), something I have yet to do in such an extreme fashion with my Dovo. These types of razor are good in that there is no need to get a strop etc, and they are also excellent for a newbie like me because they allow for practice sans blade. However, in my experience, Feather and Tesco blades are very aggressive when used in these devices.

J
 
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