DE versus Straight

[Joe Lerch]

I agree with this pretty much. If you have the ability to tweek things in a DE more than just your technique and what blade you use (i.e. adjustable) then it is a bit easier for you to rival the best straight razor shaves. From that I mean a perfectly honed "real" straight razor and you know what your doing when you use it. However, its all a matter of comfort level and how you deal with the biases you accumulate along the way of your shaving experience.

I think the honing experts who are candid admit that they can't match the sharpness of a Feather blade.

The only issue is whether sharpness is your thing or you find it too unforgiving. If sharpness is your thing, A str8 shave will never beat the shave you get with a Feather blade.

 

[Joe Lerch]

As to quality, both methods can produce BBS.

That should not be the standard. I maintain that a skilled shaver can get BBS with any decnt razor. The real test is how long it takes to re-stubble, and that where you see real differences. I have found that a str8 will generally beat DEs. But any razor with a Feather blade can beat a str8, simply because a str8 can't be made that sharp.

It takes more skill and more concentration with the straight in my opinion. .... Blade angle is also more variable because you can attack your beard with your blade anywhere from 0 degrees to 90 degrees. You can't with a DE.[/

The level of skill depends on where you start. For a guy starting with electrics, he will get a better shave sooner with a DE, but he is likely to reach a comfortable, trouble free level first with a str8 (and then suffer until the quality of the shave comes up to snuff). Str8 shavers who try DEs often compalin about cutting themselves. That's because a DE requires more subtle control.

I have to diasagree about the angle. You can't cut with either razor at zero or 90 degrees. When you learn to control an adjustable DE you can get just as great an angle variation. A fixed DE may be limited that way.

 

[kozulich]

I have to diasagree about the angle. You can't cut with either razor at zero or 90 degrees.

OK, I'll give you that 0 degrees is impossible, with a straight, the minimum is about 7 degrees, but it would certainly cut at that angle. I can pretty much guarantee that if I put my straight on my face at 90 degrees and applied a little pressure, it would cut at that angle also. No DE that I know of has that great a range of cutting angles, because for most of that range, the head design would prohibit the blade from actually touching your face.

 

[Joe Lerch]

OK, I'll give you that 0 degrees is impossible, with a straight, the minimum is about 7 degrees, but it would certainly cut at that angle. I can pretty much guarantee that if I put my straight on my face at 90 degrees and applied a little pressure, it would cut at that angle also. No DE that I know of has that great a range of cutting angles, because for most of that range, the head design would prohibit the blade from actually touching your face.

I don't know any str8 that will cut at less than 15-20 degrees, unless you press the side of the blade against the skin. You can do that with a DE, too, and an injector or GEM will get close to zero.

The only thing you'll cut if you apply pressure with 90 degrees is your skin. I do use close to it under the nose, but that's a movement that rotates the blade away from the skin as you advance it.

If you open a DE a lot (a Merkur, not a Gollette) you can even get the bar out of the picture and use it like a str8. A lot of newbies use a DE with a large angle of 80 degress or more and scrape their faces.

Angle control on a DE is not common, but I use it, and I think I know a few other veterans who might.

Because of the safety bar, it's actually safer to use large angles on a DE than a str8. You can do a lot of damage with a str8 if you're not extremely careful.

 

[moses]

All I know is that I think the first time I try a straight, I'll probably be lying that thing flat against my face and, based on Joe's observation, therefore probably cutting nothing.... I am not very concerned about injuring myself as a rule, but the thought of using a blade that sharp at near 90 degrees under my nose does give visions of permanent scars. (I'm really not worried about any of this if it doesn't leave a scar. On my face that is. Scars elsewhere not a problem).

 

[Joe Lerch]

All I know is that I think the first time I try a straight, I'll probably be lying that thing flat against my face and, based on Joe's observation, therefore probably cutting nothing.... I am not very concerned about injuring myself as a rule, but the thought of using a blade that sharp at near 90 degrees under my nose does give visions of permanent scars. (I'm really not worried about any of this if it doesn't leave a scar. On my face that is. Scars elsewhere not a problem).

Great idea, and start the cut by raising the spine until it starts to cut. For most razors it will be just a little less than 20 degrees, and it won't be good until you're over 20 degrees.

If you think about it, you could lay a razor flat and push it into the whiskers. Since it has a bevel, the edge will be above the side of the blade, and you'll never get closer than that distance, perfect for your first reducing pass, assuming it will cut.

 

[russellnyc]

All I know is that I think the first time I try a straight, I'll probably be lying that thing flat against my face and, based on Joe's observation, therefore probably cutting nothing.... I am not very concerned about injuring myself as a rule, but the thought of using a blade that sharp at near 90 degrees under my nose does give visions of permanent scars. (I'm really not worried about any of this if it doesn't leave a scar. On my face that is. Scars elsewhere not a problem).

Actually, leaving the blade flat is okay if your face is very flat, but if there are any bumps or contours on your face (as I imagine there are) be very careful not to carve them off. I started getting comfortable straight razor shaves only once I learned to shave with the blade at a 30 degree angle.

 

[crackstar]

I find that a straight gives me a closer shave than a DE, unless I do an extra pass with a DE. Then it's hard to say, at least from my standpoint.

Jeff

 

[Tinzien]

Would someone be kind enough to post a link to Dr. Moss's straight razor guide? I was searching around, and it could just be I'm missing it out in the open, but could not find it. I'm trying to get a clear picture of how to hold my new straight right-handed and get comfortable with that before I even begin a practice shave.

Thank you!

 

[Joe Lerch]

Actually, leaving the blade flat is okay if your face is very flat, but if there are any bumps or contours on your face (as I imagine there are) be very careful not to carve them off. I started getting comfortable straight razor shaves only once I learned to shave with the blade at a 30 degree angle.

Actually, you can't leave the blade flat if you want to shave, and 30 degrees is only theoretical. It's to your advantage to use a smaller angle, at least for heavy shaving. Later when you're jus trying to clean up, a larger angle will work. You can get angle close to 20 degrees for most of your shaving. Try holding the spine 1.5 to 2 spine widths above the skin.

 

[Joe Lerch]

I find that a straight gives me a closer shave than a DE, unless I do an extra pass with a DE. Then it's hard to say, at least from my standpoint.

Jeff

Ultimately it depends on your skill with each razor and the blades you use.

 

[pokkuhlag]

Would someone be kind enough to post a link to Dr. Moss's straight razor guide? I was searching around, and it could just be I'm missing it out in the open, but could not find it. I'm trying to get a clear picture of how to hold my new straight right-handed and get comfortable with that before I even begin a practice shave.

Thank you!

http://homepage.mac.com/drmoss/FileSharing26.html

 

[Tinzien]

Thanks!

 

[gundog]

The Vision with a feather gives me a better shave than I get with the straight.

 

[Joe Lerch]

The Vision with a feather gives me a better shave than I get with the straight.

Me too. Except for a Feather str8.