Damn Comfortable Shave

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Friday. Flipped the blade and shaved.

Today's Sailor settings were 1.5, 3.5, and the Zero Dot. These may be the ideal settings.

However the Sailor is so versatile and so easy and so forgiving. There are myriad options. A great many of them will work well. Different setting may be more or less suitable for different circumstances and situations.

Today's settings may be as close as I've gotten to a default daily option.

Surprise: There is no Settled Sailor Science.

I like this splash.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[thombrogan]

There is no Settled Sailor Science.

Dogma can be settled. Science can’t. Any stillness and it’s potentially useful mythology. True story, doggone it!

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Dogma can be settled. Science can’t. Any stillness and it’s potentially useful mythology. True story, doggone it!

Indeed.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Star_Wahl_Clipper_Treker]

I'm a wet shaver. In other words, I've been shaving with a Gillette Fusion, and real shaving creams, and sometimes brushes for many years (well, decades if I include other iterations of Gillette's "modern" razors with multiple blades).

My shaving career began before these razors were invented, so I, like just about everyone back in 1960 began shaving with a Gillette twist to open double edge. I cut myself all the time, and was a lot better at shaving with razors like the Fusion.

Like most people, I've tried everything, and like most people, most everything works okay or great on my face, and is lousy on my neck. The best of my neck shaves have been with the Gillette Fusion.

Through reading this forum and lots of other online material I decided to give double edged razors another try. Why? Frankly I'm not sure. Certainly it is not about the expense of the Fusion blade systems because I can use one for weeks or even months. Yeah, it will tug a bit, but it still shaves well, and doesn't irritate my sensitive neck. Maybe the DE just seems cool, and traditional, and has the promise of delivering a shave which is both BBS and comfortable.

Back in the day I used to occasionally get a real barber shop shave by a real, old time, experienced, skilled barber. Those were the shaves I dreamed of, and hoped to replicate at home with a double edged razor.

BBS sounds great, and why shouldn't it, but a damn comfortable, and pretty good shave would have to come first, and be a development milestone, and be a higher priority item. After all, who cares how you look if you're hurting, and miserable?

Old timers are going to kick me here because I don't follow every direction worth a hoot, and am prone to change variables. I don't do this professionally (being scientific in my approach), but this isn't rocket science, and I can do as I like (and suffer the consequences).

Today I got what I would consider a still not perfect but close to it damn comfortable shave. I changed several variables. I took a shower first, but I still did a hot to warm towel over first lather pre-shave preparation. I used a new and different brush, a RazoRock Plissoft Monster Synthetic instead of my Semoque SOC boar. I didn't change soaps, but used, other than the towel soak, cold water, and cold lather.

My razor is a Feather AS-D2. I changed today to a different blade. Instead of a Feather I used a Personna med blade (marked "for hospital use").

Yeah, I know this is not the way anyone should do things especially not a newbie like me, but, shoot me, I'm just reporting.

My goal this morning was not to get a good, close shave, but to get a comfortable shave. I can't say the shave is the most comfortable I've ever gotten. It certainly is not as comfortable as most shaves I got with the Fusion. However, it is the most comfortable shave I've gotten with a double edged razor.

I did only only pass with a little touch up on my chin. Still, my shave is pretty good, certainly socially acceptable, and, frankly, closer than I would have expected with one pass.

What was the difference? Was it the cold shave? Was it the blade? There's no way to be sure, but it still pleases me very much to know that a damn comfortable double edged shave is possible. I suspect it will get better as I become more experienced, and listen to my face, and learn to shave better.

Oh, I bought some Dickinson's witch hazel yesterday.

Hello Chan! You are memorable to me, because you were one of the first who replied to me, and the one that I helped without realizing it lol. I now notice that you've been a member since 2017 at least? This means you no doubt, are more experienced then I. I most certainly don't have the time to read over 500 pages of this thread though, so I think I will just reply to your OP hehe.

One of the things that I've learned in life, is that shaving is an artform. There is no such thing as an easy quick fix. We are not in the age of Star Trek universe, where a shaver with laser beams removes hair. So we have to learn how to shave, and make do with what we do have in current day. The worst shaves I've ever had, were when cartridge razors yank on my hair, hurts like heck in the mustache area, and end up cutting yourself.

Some folks here are brave enough to jump into safety razor or straight razor shaving. Me, I decided to play it safe and jump into electric shaving. lol - I noticed an excellent passage in your signature. Half the battle is in shave prep, aint that the truth! For years, I was trying to shave dry with electric shavers, cause the goal was, to have a less messy shaving experience by doing so.

However, because I have thick wiry course hair, and sensitive skin, I discovered maybe that wasn't the best thing. I end up walking around with redness on my face and neck, tends to scare some people when they look at ya lol. So, I discovered that if I bought a wet/dry electric shaver, I could then use a shaving gel applied to my face prior to shaving, and what a difference that makes.

But I don't like using the real messy shave gel's that foam up, and get all over including my ears and hair. Through trial and error, I discovered non foaming shave gel's do a the job just fine, without all the mess! "Dickinson's witch hazel" I admit this had me Oh man, the names these companies come up with for their products, I really feel they have a sense of humor.

Its really good to meet you, and it was a real treat to have that interaction with you in the haircare forum in regards to clipper maintenance. You seem like a nice guy, its an honor to know you. And your right, this forum has a great bunch of folks on here, who are extremely knowledgeable. Making friendships with you guys, and learning new things, I wouldn't have it any other way.

A well belated welcome to Badger & Blade

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Hello Chan! You are memorable to me, because you were one of the first who replied to me, and the one that I helped without realizing it lol. I now notice that you've been a member since 2017 at least? This means you no doubt, are more experienced then I. I most certainly don't have the time to read over 500 pages of this thread though, so I think I will just reply to your OP hehe.

One of the things that I've learned in life, is that shaving is an artform. There is no such thing as an easy quick fix. We are not in the age of Star Trek universe, where a shaver with laser beams removes hair. So we have to learn how to shave, and make do with what we do have in current day. The worst shaves I've ever had, were when cartridge razors yank on my hair, hurts like heck in the mustache area, and end up cutting yourself.

Some folks here are brave enough to jump into safety razor or straight razor shaving. Me, I decided to play it safe and jump into electric shaving. lol - I noticed an excellent passage in your signature. Half the battle is in shave prep, aint that the truth! For years, I was trying to shave dry with electric shavers, cause the goal was, to have a less messy shaving experience by doing so.

However, because I have thick wiry course hair, and sensitive skin, I discovered maybe that wasn't the best thing. I end up walking around with redness on my face and neck, tends to scare some people when they look at ya lol. So, I discovered that if I bought a wet/dry electric shaver, I could then use a shaving gel applied to my face prior to shaving, and what a difference that makes.

But I don't like using the real messy shave gel's that foam up, and get all over including my ears and hair. Through trial and error, I discovered non foaming shave gel's do a the job just fine, without all the mess! "Dickinson's witch hazel" I admit this had me Oh man, the names these companies come up with for their products, I really feel they have a sense of humor.

Its really good to meet you, and it was a real treat to have that interaction with you in the haircare forum in regards to clipper maintenance. You seem like a nice guy, its an honor to know you. And your right, this forum has a great bunch of folks on here, who are extremely knowledgeable. Making friendships with you guys, and learning new things, I wouldn't have it any other way.

A well belated welcome to Badger & Blade

Thank you very much. What a lovely welcoming post. I, too, very much enjoy the gentlemanly interactions this hobby and forum afford.

It's always interesting to me to hear about good experiences with electric razors. I'll admit to not having tried any of the modern high end electrics. Back in my youth my grandfather shaved exclusively with an electric. My father shaved sometimes with an electric and sometimes with a Gillette DE.

I don't remember what electrics I tried but I recall my grandfather buying me one for Christmas. I'm sure he thought it a pretty good brand and model. I tried others, too, but not a lot of others.

All the electrics I tried did basically the same thing. My face would be at least decently shaved. My neck would end up being a nightmare - irritated, red, inflamed, ugly, painful - no matter what I did.

I've tried at least one of the fairly modern wet or dry electrics and gotten the same results with it using it wet.

I've tried various methods, and products, and preps. Nothing works for me.

No, I'm not saying I've tried everything. Given what I've gone through trying to get a long lasting, and close, and Damn Comfortable Shave with double edge, single edge, injector, and straight razors, I've probably not given the electrics a fair shot.

I probably won't either.

For one thing, I've kinda given up on them.

For another, there's a wife issue. She seems to have accepted my many razors and brushes and such. I'm not saying she likes it. She may harbor anger, etc. However, for the most part, she keeps her mouth shut. The fact that I've been very very supportive of her expensive hobby helps.

Making guilts means several things.

• Really good sewing machines make really good razors look inexpensive.
• She who dies with the most fabric wins.
• Most quilters pay someone to do the actual quilting. It isn't cheap.
• Quilters buy, I think she said, 20% of all the fabric in the world (or maybe it's the US) and she does her part.
• There are groups, meetings, seminars, shows, retreats, and journeys to Hamilton, Missouri.
• Millions of friends, their babies, their grandkids, and even near strangers need need need one of her quilts.
• While it looks tedious and horrible as a hobby, she apparently enjoys it.
• Who am I to talk?

All that said, I did mention the possibility of buying one of the fairly expensive looking electrics at Costco. You'd think I mentioned bringing in a 19 YO French maid.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

This is a not very good photograph of a section of the beautiful wool quilt my lovely wife made for me. It's 100% wool which means that this side, the face side or top, is wool, as is the back side, as is the inside (whatever that's called).

Making any quilt is difficult, but making a wool quilt is another level of difficulty to say nothing of expense.

It would be impossible for me to say how much I like this quilt. It's beautiful. It's warm. It's wool. It was made with love. Along with the wool comforter under it, it keeps me warm and cozy at night without causing me to overheat. I'm a huge fan of wool as a material. Knowing that, my wife went to extremes to make this for me. You should be so lucky.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Star_Wahl_Clipper_Treker]

WOW, that is a beautiful quilt! Looks professionally made with love to me! And yes, I do know about the expense of quilts. There used to be an eldery lady who lived in my neighborhood, she was very active for her age, went to all the functions, and was even in the ladies auxiliary! Her favorite hobby was making quilts, and they were not cheap.

It gave her something to do, it was something that she enjoyed doing, and she made a lot of people happy doing so. And this is why I say hobbies are healthy for our souls. It doesn't matter if your a man or woman, if its a hobby that makes you happy, that is what you should do. And I really approve of the sentiment that, if you approve of your wifes hobby, its only right that she approve's of yours.

But here's another factor you may not have thought of also. Our hobbies are also in correlation to body care, grooming, looking dashing handsome and civilized. We don't want to look like ungroomed and unbathed caveman do we? No sir! So our hobbies are both needs and wants, all rolled up into one, which makes for the perfect combination, to justify our hobby spending!

And I too enjoy the gentlemanly approach to this site, mutual respect, education, and collaboration, that is the way to go indeed.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Saturday my shave was good enough.

Good enough being a pretty high bar these days.

On Sailor settings 1, 3, and the Zero Dot, without making much of an effort, but while doing my usual routine, the shave was pretty darn good. Not perfect - two tiny nicks on my chin area + a not perfectly smooth soul patch - the shave was still very good. My neck shaving with the Rocnel Sailor is improving.

I am considering discarding this perhaps faulty blade earlier than usual.

Of interest to me is the fact I did something today I hardly ever do. I shaved with my hearing aids installed in my ears. The Sailor can sometimes be heard as it cuts whiskers even without my devices, but it was interesting to hear, especially with my better right ear, what others using the razor might hear every day.

The Sailor makes a really cool sound when it's cutting whiskers.

My preshave and post shave routines and products were what I usually use in recent times. Why change perfection? Not pictured is last night's shea butter.​
	This is a very nice splash. I'm sure some gentlemen object to adding to bay rums all sorts of other scents, but I'm not one of those purists. That's not to say I like all bay rum additions Douglas has come up with, but I like most I've tried. This one, if I didn't know its name, would not be a scent I'd notice as a bay rum, but my nose is very unsophisticated. I know what I like.​

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Star_Wahl_Clipper_Treker]

My preshave and post shave routines and products were what I usually use in recent times. Why change perfection? Not pictured is last night's shea butter.​

I like this picture, it immediately got my attention at what products you use. Those look impressive, at least by their labels. I assume that they work good? Also, that was a nice looking brush too, I assume the soap products bleached out the fibers to look white-ish hehe. Look its a green goblan on tube 2.0, gosh this is an interesting hobby lol.

I'm not sure what the policy is here for posting pictures of consumable products. Cause one picture I took is viewable on this site, but I took a couple pictures of a blade wash product, and those are not viewable. I understand the site doesn't like people linking to photo's on product sale pages, but if its a picture I took, and I own the copyright to it, and I post it on my image hosting site, should be viewable no?

Well, I am still learning this site, maybe just a glitch, who knows. Anyways, I like your assortment of product, I am always interested in knowing weather or not its worth it to purchase these products. Thats why I like to come to this site and learn, and get an education from those who can teach. Your experience with your shaver tool, talking about how you hear it makes sounds, thats interesting.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I like this picture, it immediately got my attention at what products you use. Those look impressive, at least by their labels. I assume that they work good? Also, that was a nice looking brush too, I assume the soap products bleached out the fibers to look white-ish hehe. Look its a green goblan on tube 2.0, gosh this is an interesting hobby lol.

I'm not sure what the policy is here for posting pictures of consumable products. Cause one picture I took is viewable on this site, but I took a couple pictures of a blade wash product, and those are not viewable. I understand the site doesn't like people linking to photo's on product sale pages, but if its a picture I took, and I own the copyright to it, and I post it on my image hosting site, should be viewable no?

Well, I am still learning this site, maybe just a glitch, who knows. Anyways, I like your assortment of product, I am always interested in knowing weather or not its worth it to purchase these products. Thats why I like to come to this site and learn, and get an education from those who can teach. Your experience with your shaver tool, talking about how you hear it makes sounds, thats interesting.

I've posted millions of photos. Some have disappeared from B&B. Perhaps those that disappeared were owned by someone and copyrighted. I have no knowledge to confirm that or disprove it nor do I know exactly what all the photography policies are.

I've used many preshave products. All were at least somewhat helpful. One was somewhat helpful but had a scent I did not much like.

The Cube and the Tube are in another league as preshave products at least for me. They make a tremendous difference in my shaves.

Here's a link to a recent post on my preshave routine and the products in my photo.

A great many gentlemen have helped me figure things out, but much is trial and error, and much is variable from person to person.

That said, I'd be hard pressed to change things working as well as my current gear.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Also, that was a nice looking brush too, I assume the soap products bleached out the fibers to look white-ish hehe.

The brush is a Semogue 2021 Spanish Shavers LE Mixed Finest. You might search for it and maybe find one available for sale or they might be all sold out forever.

Here it is pictured brand new and next to its cousin which is the boar version of the limited edition brush.

I'm not a terribly big fan of my other Semogue boars, but I like this one a good bit. I think perhaps what I like about it as compared with others might be the lower loft, but, of course, I don't actually know about its bristles as compared with, for instance, the SOC boar. (I do not love my SOC boar.)

The brush on the right is a Mixed or Mistura. It's both finest (or two band) silvertip badger and boar. A mixture of both. I like mine a good bit considering it's not quite fully broken in yet. Will it be as good as the SOC butterscotch? It's too soon to know, but it might be even better which would be remarkable.

All four of these are Misturas.

• On the left is a 70/30 knot I put in an old Thater handle. Not a favorite yet, it refuses to break in. (It's been used more than a hundred times but I've not given up.)
• In front is a Oumo knot a member put in a vintage handle and gave me. It is very wonderful.
• The butterscotch SOC Mistura would be hard to beat. Great brush albeit a knot I'd like to be larger.
• The ivory handled beauty on the right is the same brush in the top photo.

These brushes all have the same handle. All but one are Semogue SOC brushes.

• The ivory is finest or two band. Very nice indeed.
• The butterscotch is the same mistura mentioned and pictured earlier.
• The wooden handled SOC is boar.
• The tortoise is not actually an SOC, but the handle is the same. It's a Semogue LE with one of my very favorite three band silvertip knots. (I don't have many three bands.)

If soaps change the color of brushes (and some have been reported to do so) it's to add color rather than remove it (as far as I know).

Probably way more information than you needed, but I like to look at my brushes, compare them, and take pictures of 'em.

In my opinion everyone should try a mistura.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Star_Wahl_Clipper_Treker]

Dude, I so have a new favorite after seeing this picture. Its the brush on the very right, that dark textured Semogue one, that brush I must get! I bet it would help me to even lather shave gel on my face better too. You always know when there is that one, the one you can't take your eyes off it, and that brush is the one for me. Yes, I do understand why you like to look at your brushes.

Some people like precious metals, but we, we like our brushes, our shavers, our clippers.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Dude, I so have a new favorite after seeing this picture. Its the brush on the very right, that dark textured Semogue one, that brush I must get! I bet it would help me to even lather shave gel on my face better too. You always know when there is that one, the one you can't take your eyes off it, and that brush is the one for me. Yes, I do understand why you like to look at your brushes.

Some people like precious metals, but we, we like our brushes, our shavers, our clippers.

Wouldn't you know it.

The brush you like, brand new as pictured above, is in a somewhat unique brush category.

It's a great brush. No doubt about it. However, it's the kind of brush you better jump on when you find one. Semogue partners with various shaving forums and such on occasion to make limited edition brushes. As far as I know they tend to make perhaps 50 of their limited edition brushes (so I've read) which are usually sold on a shaving forum to its members. Any remaining brushes are sold by vendors such as Vintage Scent.

As I recall that's where I bought the brush you like. It was a bit of a roll of the dice for me as it was a tad expensive for a brush I knew very little about. Turned out to be one of my best brush purchases though.

There was another Vintage Scent Semogue limited edition brush I could have purchased. I'm still kicking myself for not buying it when I could. Yes, I'm talking about the large mistura with the barrel shaped handle (for those who might remember it).

One never knows what will pop up on the BST.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Star_Wahl_Clipper_Treker]

Yep, I discovered that soon after I made that post and my heart shuttered. It doesn't seem fair does it? But thats the way it is I suppose, not everybody gonna get them limited editions. And you are so right about price, its way out there IMO, but I guess thats what limited edition costs these days lol.

I did find another that is available on Amazon to buy, although its 94 dollars itself, I don't think its limited edition either, so its pretty spendy. Its the "Semogue Torga-C3 Finest Badger Shaving Brush." I think I got my sights set too high if you know what I mean.

BTW, I did manage to find that Shea Butter though, the big 15 ounce tub on Amazon, I added it to my wish list. It wasn't a bad price either, so I will most likely order myself a tub of that next month. Thank you for the expert recommendation, much appreciated!

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

There are several Semogue brushes with the same type of knot you're seeing in the Semogue Torga-C3 Finest Badger Shaving Brush.

Can I illustrate a few important things you may already know?

	Here we have a Semogue SOC in what Semogue calls finest badger. Finest badger is also called two band or two band finest or two band silvertip. Semogue makes several brushes with this knot.​
This limited edition Semogue has a knot unique to the brush. What I mean by that is Semogue seems to generally not make brushes which have a three band silvertip knot. If there are other Semogue three band silvertips I can't find them and would like to know about them. Other manufacturers make there band silvertips by the train load but two bands may be more in demand these days. I'm no expert on the market and am just reporting what I think I'm seeing.​
	This butterscotch SOC is Mistura. That means the knot is made of a mixture of finest badger (or two band silvertip) and boar bristles. It's a great brush. There is a thread devoted to singing its praise. Link.​

Semogue Mistura (or Semogue Mixed) brushes are not hard to find these days. When shopping for these and for the Semogue Finest brushes you will want to shop for price. Price varies from vendor to vendor and from country to country with the exchange rate. I shop in the US, the UK, and in the Iberian considering the final price with shipping.

Semogue LE or Limited Edition brushes area another matter. If you like what you see you buy it now because it won't be there later. I don't have vast experience with LE brushes. Some members own a great many of them acquired I think over a long time. In my limited experience these LE brushes tend to be better perhaps than other Semogue brushes and worth the extra money if you like them.

In my experience Semogue is not an expensive brush line relatively speaking. Of course it's all relative, and nobody should spent more than they want to as there are plenty of good and also inexpensive brushes on the market. Semogue produces brushes at lots of price points. Some I like a lot and others I don't care for.

Notice how the brush on the right has a light colored band just above the handle, and then a darker band, and then another light band at the top of the knot.

Notice how the brush on the left has a dark bark just above the handle, and then a light band at the top.

The brush on the right is a three band. The brush of the left is a two band.

Both three band silvertip and two band silvertip are silvertip badger but not exactly the same silvertip badger. Two band (or finest) is said to be thicker and maybe stiffer. Both are very high end in Badger World.

Some would say one is better than the other. Generally 3 band might be a bit softer with a bit less backbone and/or scrub. Seems to me three band used to be more popular but now two band is.

Of course there is huge overlap in the knot qualities. For instance the tortoise three band you like so much is tremendously soft but it has loads of backbone and scrub. It's a brilliant knot.

To confuse things even more there are Manchurians. These tend to be very high end two bands. Exactly what they are is very unclear but they tend to be quite expensive.

In my opinion some of the best - inexpensive but also dependable - "low end" knots are sold on eBay under the Maseto or MS brand name. Maseto sells both two bands and three bands. I have both and have been quite pleased with them. Stirling and Yaqi brushes are in much the same league, but I think Maseto in a notch better. Others will disagree of course and they may be right.

There is obviously a lot which can be learned about brushes and knots. The price range is huge. You may or may not get what you pay for. I'd jump all over the Torga if it appeals to you; be aware it comes in more than one size & shop around.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Sunday morning I slept til 11 am. Counting DST of course. Sleeping until 10 am is unusual for me, but always a treat.

The Sailor shave - on Sailor settings 1, 3, and the Zero Dot - was also a treat.

Today I shaved ATG on my upper lip (my most sensitive area for ATG shaving) with both the lower settings. Setting #1 is certainly not bad ATG there. Actually setting #1 is much better than not bad, but the Zero Dot setting is even more comfortable.

Elsewhere setting #3 is fine ATG.

The Wizamet SI was not discarded. I decided to flip it and see what happens.

Along with my usual preshave products and procedures, I used a good splash.

Hard to beat a good shave.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Monday. Good shave.

It might not look nimble, but it is. My Sailor settings today - 1, 3, and the Zero Dot - worked a treat.

Also used shea butter last night. My blade was the flipped Wizamet SI.

Happy shaves to you,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Tuesday. Very good shave. Very good indeed.

Today's Sailor settings - 2, 4, and the Zero Dot - were very effective.

The Rocnel Sailor is as good as it is good looking. Definitely a Daily Driver!

(Daily Driver is my highest ranking category for razors. Few make the cut.)

Everything else was unchanged.






A really good splash.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[thombrogan]

The Rocnel Sailor is as good as it is good looking.

Given that it’s absolutely three billion kilocalories (them’s the food ones) of eye candy, I’m skeptical of your claim. Maybe you’re just an incredible photographer, but that razor looks so freaking cool.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Given that it’s absolutely three billion kilocalories (them’s the food ones) of eye candy, I’m skeptical of your claim. Maybe you’re just an incredible photographer, but that razor looks so freaking cool.

I, too, was extremely skeptical.

There is a huge temptation to overdo the accolades in support of money spent to impress ourselves and/or others.

I've not done shave offs with any of my adjustables (or other razors). Perhaps I might like the Taiga more than the Sailor, but frankly I've not yet used the Taiga to say much more than I like it. Etc.

One major attribute which distinguishes the Sailor in my view of it is the handle. It's 80 mm which is a length I like. It's also fat. Since I have a dislike for handles which seem too skinny to me, its fat handle is a big bonus. Some Sailors have somewhat different handle dimensions but they all seem to have fat handles.

However, the major factors playing into my salute to the Sailor are these two.

• One is how smoothly it shaves regardless of how much I open the gap. (And, boy, howdy, that gap will open a million miles.)
• The other is how the Sailor is so extremely mild on the Zero Dot (lowest, most closed) setting. It shaves remarkably well on that low setting, but it is almost in ATT CM territory with how mild it feels. For me, that is crucial. I've got to have a super mild setting to shave ATG under my nose.
• But, the handle is very important, as is the razor's nimbleness and its ability to get in tight spots, as is the fact there are no downsides to the Sailor other than perhaps the weight (which is actually not a problem for me).

Thank you for complimenting my photograph. It's easy with a good subject and a lightbox and some practice.

Happy shaves,

Jim