Damn Comfortable Shave

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Thank you sir for the explanation. follow up up question would be let’s say blackbird razor. When you shave with the grain from top to bottom you use a steep angle and it feels comfortable. But when reverse directions and you go from bottom up against the grain and you keep the razor in the same steep angle it sorta feels like you’re scraping your skin.

The material below - borrowed from a discussion about the Wolfman WR2 with a very high, 1.55 gap - applies to many razors at least to a degree.

It is not the easiest material to read and make sense of in my opinion. It also may go a tad too far, but it's still useful if you can get your head around it.

THE WOLFMAN WR2: THE BEST ADJUSTABLE RAZOR EVER MADE......

So, why is the the Wr2 the best adjustable razor ever made?

Does it have a knob? No
Is the gap adjustable? No
Does it have different base plates? No

So, here is a simple explanation in the spirit of helping people choose the perfect Wr2 razor.

For the sake of simple explanation I shall use made up roughly aligned numbers in line with the mechanical facts to keep the Maths understandable.

So, the Wr2, a superbly designed razor initially deemed too inefficient by many.
Lets take that theory apart now…..
The original Wr2 was designed with the perfect 3 pass shave in mind to suit most people’s daily routine (my take) but with a really superbly designed geometry.
So based on the razor geometry lets say for example that the 0.95 gap has an ideal handle to skin shave angle of 45*, with a margin of shave error at 5* steeper at 40* or 5* shallower at 50* yet still giving a great mild shave & taking into account driver error, this gives an operating window of 10*.
THEN: THE OPPOSITE END OF THE SPECTRUM.
Go to the current max of 1.55 blade gap. Mechanical fact & consideration needs to be applied here.
The mechanical fact is:
The head of the razor of the 1.55 is exactly the same as the 0.95, & so is the blade exposure, the only difference is that the blade GAP between the two has been opened up, with the 1.55 more skin is exposed to the blade due to the larger gap, also the shave angle has now changed in turn exposing a little more blade, now to get the full benefit of the 1.55 the razor handle now drops for example to 60* opening the blade to skin exposure, there is now an effective shave angle of 40* to 65* giving a shave window of 25* which is more than double that of the 0.95, however in doing this the smoothness shall decline relative to handle angle towards the 60* angle because the optimum blade to skin angle has been compromised, thus anyone can get a great shave in theory, however not necessarily the optimum shave.
Now, only if the driver is holding the razor angle at 60* shall the full benefit of the 1.55 be realized. Raising the handle back to the original 45* will give a mild ‘less efficient’ shave for buffing in line with the original 0.95 gap.
An example here would be that if a user shaved with a curved sweep then the whole spectrum from 0.95 to 1.55 efficiency could take place between the handle angles of 40* to 65* leading to varied results.......lazy shave syndrome.....

So in the Wolfman Wr2 high gap razor there is the opportunity to have every razor efficiency for those who are skilled enough in driving it through every angle, the same mechanical fact applies to medium gapped Wr2 razors but lessening the shave window further, though mostly noticeable on multi days growth at maximum efficiency/blade gap.
Hence:
THE BEST ADJUSTABLE RAZOR EVER MADE.
The question is not so much the gap but the needs of the driver, to wield such a razor every shave gap/angle is available based on skill.
Can a 1.55 Wr2 be used as a daily driver? Hell yea if you can control blade/handle angle, both maximum efficiency and mildest buffing efficiency can be achieved with one razor…..
In the vein of LORD OF THE RINGS………ONE RAZOR TO RULE THEM ALL

As always of course, shave results shall be dependent on personal skills YMMV…….

A razor like the Blackbird can be used at a steep angle going WTG (which is what you're doing). Then, for the next pass, it can be used at a neutral angle, also called the design angle, or, if you wish, at a shallow angle.

The razor will feel different at each of these angles. The quoted material attempts to explain why.

I am generally a steep angle shaver. I did not get there by planning to use the razor at a steep angle.

I decided somewhere along the way that the best way for me to figure out a particular razor and how to use it was to attend to the feedback the razor provides. How did it sound? What were the tactile sensations? How did it feel on my skin? By attending to these audible and tactile clues I learned to adjust the razor to doing what worked best for me.

Then, after I'd been doing this awhile, I noticed I was mostly using the razor at a steep angle.

However, and perhaps this will help you, I also noticed that sometimes I was using the razor at a more neutral angle or shallow angle.

It depends, at least for me it does, on the razor, and on what I'm trying to accomplish, and on what part of my face I'm shaving, and on how the whiskers are on that area of my face, and on whether I'm shaving with or against the grain, and on how many passes I've already done and how much stubble there is, and on the blade feel I can tolerate that moment.

Mostly I'm just saying that perhaps you might consider a more shallow angle when it feels rough.

There are no rules about any of this stuff. Just what works best and feels best for you.

I hope that makes some sense to you and is useful. Don't over think it.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[never-stop-learning]

Thank you sir for the explanation. follow up up question would be let’s say blackbird razor. When you shave with the grain from top to bottom you use a steep angle and it feels comfortable. But when reverse directions and you go from bottom up against the grain and you keep the razor in the same steep angle it sorta feels like you’re scraping your skin.

With my Blackbird razors (Ti, Brass and Stainless), I use a steep angle for my main passes (WTG, ATG, XTG). I'll go with a neutral to shallow angle for buffing and touchups in areas where a steep angle isn't feasible. One reason my preference is for shorter handles - easier to use a steep angle.

What counts for you is what feels and works best for you on your face. Beard type, skin type, etc. are all factors.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Friday was good in the shave den.

Felt like an Italian Friday and decided for some reason to use a different from usual soap.

As much as I like the unobtanium hard ABC soap, I think I like Vitos Red Cocco better.

Really nice Zenith three band silvertip. Good backbone (not dinosaur transplant but good) and good softness. Nice balance of qualities. Great handle in terms of ergonomics.

Flipped blade/Cube/Tube.

No complaints. Woulda been better with Vitos.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Raven Koenes]

Friday was good in the shave den.


View attachment 1329822


Felt like an Italian Friday and decided for some reason to use a different from usual soap.

As much as I like the unobtanium hard ABC soap, I think I like Vitos Red Cocco better.

Really nice Zenith three band silvertip. Good backbone (not dinosaur transplant but good) and good softness. Nice balance of qualities. Great handle in terms of ergonomics.

Flipped blade/Cube/Tube.


View attachment 1329830


No complaints. Woulda been better with Vitos.

Happy shaves,

Jim

Did you put a Lo Storto handle on a standard Fatip head? That doesn't look like a slant? What are you BOSC or something, or is it my meds?

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Did you put a Lo Storto handle on a standard Fatip head? That doesn't look like a slant? What are you BOSC or something, or is it my meds?

It's a chrome FOCS, Rave.

You're slanted, too, which makes the razor look "normal."

I think.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Raven Koenes]

It's a chrome FOCS, Rave.

You're slanted, too, which makes the razor look "normal."

I think.

Happy shaves,

Jim

Ah.

 

[Neilzebub]

If we're all slanted, may I be a non conformist and be twisted instead please?

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

If we're all slanted, may I be a non conformist and be twisted instead please?

 

[Neilzebub]

This was me in my last lifetime. The 'Sigmund' part is definitely significant

 

[thombrogan]

The 'Sigmund' part is definitely significant

You have a son with Sieglind?

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Saturday's slant? The Wunderbar on a polished titanium handle.

This discontinued Simpson soap is worth buying if you run into any. It's what I'd call a light lather as opposed to a heavy or dense lather, but I like it. The scent, at least of mine, is much lighter than it seems like it would be when the container is opened.

What is a Simpson Silvertip Badger? That's right, it's a two band. A very soft two band, but not devoid of adequate backbone and scrub. Still, the emphasis here is on soft.

My Chubby preference is the CH3 in Manchurian, but this is a beautiful handle, and a very good, very capable, very nice brush. It's grown on me.

I like the larger knot and the larger handle of the CH3 more though.

My friends, they don't call this the Wunderbar for nothing. The razor certainly has a learning curve. It can bite, but tends not to when you figure it out. From the get go it is very smooth shaving gear. Efficient, too. More efficient than other slants I've used I think. That's not me saying it is magic on my soul patch, but it allows sufficient work to smooth the area. (As is the case with a number of my razors.)

In two words: The Wunderbar? Smooth. Efficient.

It can get into Dolphin Skin territory.

Good shave using the same ole flipped Polsilver SI + the Cube/Tube.

Happy shaves to you,

Jim

 

[Neilzebub]

You have a son with Sieglind?

Nice one! I meant this Sigmund

 

[thombrogan]

Oh! The guy that said one thing, but meant his mother.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Sunday the razor of choice was the Pearl Flexi.

Let's give a shout out to this wonderful Semogue LE three band. I'm so glad I purchased it. Not inexpensive, it's worth much more than I paid for it. Hard to imagine a better three band in this size. Lovely scrub but also very soft. Zero downsides.

Today's razor was picked in the midst of reading reviews of adjustables all of which could be easily cut and paste reviews to copy into this or other threads on some of the very expensive adjustables.

All that stopped me called the first version of the Pearl Flexi Adjustable an outstanding razor was the thought in the back of my head that there could be an alignment issue; with alignment issues now engineered out, I’m calling the Pearl Flexi Adjustable 2nd Run outstanding. It’s good enough to be the best machined adjustable razor I’ve used.

⬆ That's from a gentleman, Errol, who has reviewed a ton of razors including all the expensive adjustables I know of other than the Sailor 2021 and MC ⬆

I don't always agree with everything Errol says in his reviews, but he seems comprehensive, experienced, free of confirmation bias induced by the cost of his gear, and honest. I don't know him. I'm only going by what I've read from him and the respect he's given by other shavers.

Somewhere (August 16th, 2020) Errol lists all the adjustables he'd tried...

• Rex Ambassador Adjustable – First release
• B&R Adjustable
• Rex Ambassador Adjustable – 2019 release
• Homelike Taiga SB – Titanium handle
• Homelike Taiga OC
• Phoenix Ascension
• Rocnel Sailor Gen 3
• Detroit Shaving Alpha
• Janus 3000 Toggle
• Rocnel Sailor Gen 2

...saying they are listed in the order he thought they rated.

His review of the Pearl Flexi is on March 27th, 2021, so it's down the road from that list.

His is damn high praise for the Pearl Flexi given his experience.

I know that's just one man's opinion. I'm quite interested in other opinions including those of experienced B&B gentlemen such as James @loot, Gus @GlazedBoker, etc. I'm still strongly considering buying the Sailor MC; would have already other than my current self imposed lockdown which has prevented trips to the bank and Western Union.





My shave today begin with the Flexi on setting #3. On that adjustment there's a little blade feel. Not much. It's not in any sense objectionable to me. (And I'm not one to crave blade feel.) The razor shaves me well on #3 that's for sure.

I finished with the adjustment lowered to #1 for final buffing and a kinda sorta playing around a bit last pass. Pretty much zero blade feel on #1.

The razor is smooth feeling on these settings. I've used it cranked wide open if you feel like searching for my posts on other settings.

Make no mistake, the razor is a Tank. The head is pretty big, too, but I have no trouble using it under my nose.

It is a damn good adjustable in my opinion. My experience with adjustables is far from extensive.

Used the same Polsilver SI I been using for a number of shaves, flipped; do I have 20 shaves on this sucker yet? Maybe. It is going strong. Also used the magnificent Cube/Tube.

A lovely scent for a late afternoon Sunday shave.

Happy shaves to you,

Jim

 

[Neilzebub]

Oh! The guy that said one thing, but meant his mother.

Right!!

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

The Best or The Worst? I know my wife wouldn't appreciate it.​

Amazing what you can find in 30 seconds on the internet.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Monday featured the Birch.

This is certainly a decent and competent razor. Smooth. Very little blade feel. Pretty efficient.

Vanilla scent with some complexity but not a great deal. Still, I like it on occasion.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[GlazedBoker]

Sunday the razor of choice was the Pearl Flexi.


View attachment 1331191


Let's give a shout out to this wonderful Semogue LE three band. I'm so glad I purchased it. Not inexpensive, it's worth much more than I paid for it. Hard to imagine a better three band in this size. Lovely scrub but also very soft. Zero downsides.

Today's razor was picked in the midst of reading reviews of adjustables all of which could be easily cut and paste reviews to copy into this or other threads on some of the very expensive adjustables.





⬆ That's from a gentleman, Errol, who has reviewed a ton of razors including all the expensive adjustables I know of other than the Sailor 2021 and MC ⬆

I don't always agree with everything Errol says in his reviews, but he seems comprehensive, experienced, free of confirmation bias induced by the cost of his gear, and honest. I don't know him. I'm only going by what I've read from him and the respect he's given by other shavers.

Somewhere (August 16th, 2020) Errol lists all the adjustables he'd tried...

• Rex Ambassador Adjustable – First release
• B&R Adjustable
• Rex Ambassador Adjustable – 2019 release
• Homelike Taiga SB – Titanium handle
• Homelike Taiga OC
• Phoenix Ascension
• Rocnel Sailor Gen 3
• Detroit Shaving Alpha
• Janus 3000 Toggle
• Rocnel Sailor Gen 2

...saying they are listed in the order he thought they rated.

His review of the Pearl Flexi is on March 27th, 2021, so it's down the road from that list.

His is damn high praise for the Pearl Flexi given his experience.

I know that's just one man's opinion. I'm quite interested in other opinions including those of experienced B&B gentlemen such as James @loot, Gus @GlazedBoker, etc. I'm still strongly considering buying the Sailor MC; would have already other than my current self imposed lockdown which has prevented trips to the bank and Western Union.





My shave today begin with the Flexi on setting #3. On that adjustment there's a little blade feel. Not much. It's not in any sense objectionable to me. (And I'm not one to crave blade feel.) The razor shaves me well on #3 that's for sure.

I finished with the adjustment lowered to #1 for final buffing and a kinda sorta playing around a bit last pass. Pretty much zero blade feel on #1.

The razor is smooth feeling on these settings. I've used it cranked wide open if you feel like searching for my posts on other settings.

Make no mistake, the razor is a Tank. The head is pretty big, too, but I have no trouble using it under my nose.

It is a damn good adjustable in my opinion. My experience with adjustables is far from extensive.

Used the same Polsilver SI I been using for a number of shaves, flipped; do I have 20 shaves on this sucker yet? Maybe. It is going strong. Also used the magnificent Cube/Tube.



View attachment 1331208


A lovely scent for a late afternoon Sunday shave.

Happy shaves to you,

Jim

Interesting list that has been composed and really some phenomenal razors that are mentioned. Honestly, I think I’ve only owned/sampled two thirds of the razors mentioned above. I’m not writing here to refute/oppose or to bring contradictory argument for any of these great shaving tools. However, I will bring to light those razors that I have found to be quite significant in terms of performance, ease of use and execution of design. I will only bring 5 razors to the table that have elicited the so called “wow” factor from me using them. As always, this is a very subjective endeavor as what one can expect to achieve with a tool and is paramount that the greatest rule one should always be aware of is the YMMV edict. I know, some say that saying is preposterous but, until we can find a universal answer to this ever eternal dilemma, that’s the rule. Come up with something better or unlock the code on why there is no universally proven fact why some razors work for some and not for others.

Laymen’s Terms and in using the K.I.S.S. Principle, it is what it is. Vaguely, call it a Singularity as we just don’t know the “why” end result.

I’ll begin with the Gibbs Reglable. Why? Quite simply it’s one of the greatest razors ever made. Fully adjustable, as smooth and cool as the other side of a pillow. Low profile head, brass alloy construction with chrome plating. It offers an infinite amount of adjustment while maintaining ease of use throughout its range and keeping blade harshness to a minimum. Yes, the blades were proprietary and to use the Gibbs Reglable, one needs to modify current DE blades to fit. The handle is made of a plastic that can become brittle with time. Some even think the weight bias of the razor is to much geared towards the head and they might be right. But, make no mistake or sell this razor short. It’s as formidable a shaving tool that can not only compete with the best from yesterday or today but, it can surpass them in shaving performance brilliance. Yup, it’s that fudging good. Besides, the Rex Ambassador, Taiga and even the Muramasa have very similar design details to this Titan of shaving razors. It’s copied for a reason fellas.

Next is either the FatBoy, Slim, Black Beauty 109/84 offerings from Gillette. And this pick is rather simple yet extremely important in adjustable shaving terms (actually, in all shaving points). There is simply no other series of adjustable razors on the planet that have been accepted by more men or women than either one of these iterations from the house of Gillette. It’s the easiest format for a razor in terms of total ease of use from installing a blade to adjusting to one’s preferred gap size. The TTO mechanism/blade tray paired with the numbered dial adjustment was a coup for Gillette and literally a stroke of pure genius & brilliance. They dominate wet shave land when we talk about razors that we can adjust. For every modern razor you mention or list, the Gillette versions are mentioned tens if not hundreds of times over against those made today. A testament to the sheer production volume that Gillette commanded and executed during that era. The razors themselves are excellent with quality components and a majority of it in brass. Twist open the silo-styled doors, drop in your blade, close it back up with your preferred setting and away you go. Doesn’t get any simpler. Not infinitely adjustable but, there are more than enough settings to nearly satisfy every type face and beard. I own a Slim and it shaves amazingly well. Do I have others that shave as good if not better? Absolutely but, there is a workmanlike feel and aura to the Gillette adjustables that frankly no other razor maker can match. It just works and it works well.

Now this one quite possibly was the razor that gave me the “Aha!” type of reaction. And that is the HomelikeShaving Taiga SS. Think of the Gibbbs Reglable but, in an exotic alloy in Stainless Steel (not so exotic in today’s field) from head to toe. A bit heavier but, exceptionally balanced and constructed. A truly simple yet brilliant design that allows the razor to be taken apart in seconds for clean up or just maintenance. To me and just me it shaves tremendously close to the Gibbs and at times I think it’s an added extension of that legendary razor. The smoothness that it exhibits for a stainless alloy constructed razor is unparalleled in my experience. From 1-6 on that adjustment dial it is pure perfection, almost. Still it has the capability of it being over-clocked for lack of a better term in creating more aggression/blade feel without sacrificing smoothness and ease of use throughout that over-clocked range. Does one really need a razor to go two full turns to shave? Of course not. If you do your better off using a 7/8 Wedge or better for your shaving needs. Nonetheless, it’s incredible how much this razor can go past it’s standard gap sizes/increments and still be in large part quite useable. Whether in sb or oc configuration, it’s a stellar performer and is one of the La Creme de la creme in razor adjustables. For me it bests the Gibbs on shave performance and only one other razor stands with it toe to toe though, I give the slightest of margins to the Taiga.

If there was a razor that one could think was made for the Olympians that reside on Mt. Olympus, this is the razor that comes to mind (maybe the LE version with the gold accents would fit the bill better) and that is the Rocnel Sailor ‘21. Brilliantly engineered and constructed with a look and feel all its own. This razor has shave pedigree of the highest order. From mild to wild with a simple twist of the knob it delivers well past one’s expectations. Made up of entirely 316/316L Stainless, finished to almost jewel like appearance it is a magnificent tool. It is the only razor that I have ever used that I can leave on the base setting or 0 and still get a pretty decent shave. No other adjustable does that for me. Between 2-5 this is shave nirvana. I get the combination in feel of the Taiga & Gibbs within that range with the ‘21 Sailor. Just maybe by the slimmest of margins they are smoother but, the efficiency of the Sailor is just nearly unbeatable. And yes, this behemoth is infinitely adjustable and goes well beyond it’s limits for those that want to venture into the “Danger Zone” of high gap, high efficiency razors. Unfortunately, that is what for me is the drawback or chink in the armor for the Sailor ‘21. Once I get past the 5 setting, the razor does start to show a bit more more blade feel and slight harshness that gets more pronounced once one goes into over-clocked mode. To me, there is no gain in the higher gaps as compared to the Gibbs and Taiga as you can push those to similarly that area of aggression and still be quite comfortable in shaving with them though also at the expense of loosing some smoothness and ease of feel on the skin. You can still shave with the Sailor in that range but, you are going to have to respect and show a very good amount of skill and technique to achieve your shave without any mishaps, more so than with the other aforementioned 2 razors. Consequently, to me and my experience it out shaves the Gibbs and kind of out shaves the Taiga as well but, not so decisively as I had previously thought when I paired them up against each other some time ago. Let me put it this way. If you want supreme comfort and value that over anything else while still wanting effective efficiency and ease of use, I’d recommend either the Taiga or Gibbs. Because even if you want to skip a day or two maybe even a week between shaves, those two can do it easier and just as efficiently as the ‘21 Sailor. However, if you want one razor and you can care less what it can do above its intended range and price not being an issue, the ‘21 Sailor is as good as it gets. It covers EVERY RAZOR that one may have or is going to ever have. The investment to me is well worth it because it practically makes very other razor redundant/obsolete. Yes, including Wolfman, Timeless and you name it, it fits here. By the way, I sold my Taiga SS recently. Why? I’m chasing the Ti version of it. Love the alloy and I’ve been trending a bit towards lighter razors….

Oh no! How dare you Gus! Well, this razor is one of my favorites not because of its construction and alloy but, more because of how it performs for me. It’s uglier than Sin itself while also being the heaviest and most cumbersome razor I own. So why do I still have it and use it? Because it shaves insanely well. Yeah, the Merkur Vision or 2000 to some. Yes, it is a bit of a sentimental pick but, the performance is undeniably there. It gives me smooth and consistent BBS shaves with all the others mentioned above without a single issue. The TTO mechanism is a bit more complicated than say those from Gillette or the Model T from RockWell but, it still holds the blade firmly and equal on both sides. Maintenance is a bit more complicated or extensive compared to any razor ever made but, to me it has become second nature and is a joy to own and use. I do have another NOS razor and enough parts on the internals to replace them a half dozen times. I know, it’s not ideal yet, I enjoy the razor and its performance and feel it is totally worth the time and investment. Insert the YMMV rule right here…..

Again, these 5 are not intended to encourage others to dump what they have and make a beeline to an online retailer or auction site. Rather just a comparative view on what I deem are the best adjustable razors that I have used to date. The good thing is that there will be some down the road that I’m looking forward too in acquiring in the near future and my experience for these marvels of shaving is forever changing and morphing. I’d be more than happy with what I have but, what fun would it be for me then if I stop chasing the next experience?

It’s a hobby that I thoroughly enjoy and these debates are part of the draw for me. To be totally honest gentlemen, we’ve got it real good these days with the choices given us in today’s wet shave era…..

Great shaves to all.

 

[loot]

Sunday the razor of choice was the Pearl Flexi.


View attachment 1331191


Let's give a shout out to this wonderful Semogue LE three band. I'm so glad I purchased it. Not inexpensive, it's worth much more than I paid for it. Hard to imagine a better three band in this size. Lovely scrub but also very soft. Zero downsides.

Today's razor was picked in the midst of reading reviews of adjustables all of which could be easily cut and paste reviews to copy into this or other threads on some of the very expensive adjustables.





⬆ That's from a gentleman, Errol, who has reviewed a ton of razors including all the expensive adjustables I know of other than the Sailor 2021 and MC ⬆

I don't always agree with everything Errol says in his reviews, but he seems comprehensive, experienced, free of confirmation bias induced by the cost of his gear, and honest. I don't know him. I'm only going by what I've read from him and the respect he's given by other shavers.

Somewhere (August 16th, 2020) Errol lists all the adjustables he'd tried...

• Rex Ambassador Adjustable – First release
• B&R Adjustable
• Rex Ambassador Adjustable – 2019 release
• Homelike Taiga SB – Titanium handle
• Homelike Taiga OC
• Phoenix Ascension
• Rocnel Sailor Gen 3
• Detroit Shaving Alpha
• Janus 3000 Toggle
• Rocnel Sailor Gen 2

...saying they are listed in the order he thought they rated.

His review of the Pearl Flexi is on March 27th, 2021, so it's down the road from that list.

His is damn high praise for the Pearl Flexi given his experience.

I know that's just one man's opinion. I'm quite interested in other opinions including those of experienced B&B gentlemen such as James @loot, Gus @GlazedBoker, etc. I'm still strongly considering buying the Sailor MC; would have already other than my current self imposed lockdown which has prevented trips to the bank and Western Union.





My shave today begin with the Flexi on setting #3. On that adjustment there's a little blade feel. Not much. It's not in any sense objectionable to me. (And I'm not one to crave blade feel.) The razor shaves me well on #3 that's for sure.

I finished with the adjustment lowered to #1 for final buffing and a kinda sorta playing around a bit last pass. Pretty much zero blade feel on #1.

The razor is smooth feeling on these settings. I've used it cranked wide open if you feel like searching for my posts on other settings.

Make no mistake, the razor is a Tank. The head is pretty big, too, but I have no trouble using it under my nose.

It is a damn good adjustable in my opinion. My experience with adjustables is far from extensive.

Used the same Polsilver SI I been using for a number of shaves, flipped; do I have 20 shaves on this sucker yet? Maybe. It is going strong. Also used the magnificent Cube/Tube.



View attachment 1331208


A lovely scent for a late afternoon Sunday shave.

Happy shaves to you,

Jim

Jim...I am an odd bird. I have odd dislikes. For instance, I dislike the looks of the Gibbs and would never own one. I don't even care to try one. I don't like anything that looks like a Gibbs, which is a bunch of new stuff. I tried to get over it once by trying what I recall to be a Taiga in SS, on a pass-a-round. It had different base plates...and LEFT had threads. What a monstrosity. I used it exactly once, cleaned/boxed it up, and sent it on without ever posting a review. Toldya...odd by any definition.

I also have odd shaving patterns. Rarely ever 2 days in a row or more than 2 times a week. My average growth per shave is probably 5-7 days. For me, the enjoyable part of shaving is slaying a 7 day beard in 1 pass. I always do 2.5 passes total...but taking everything off in 1 pass is the best. I also crave blade feel. Not aggressive/harsh or tuggy...just full contact, no question where it is and what it is doing.

It's hard for me to find a razor that does all of that and still remains smooth with big gaps.

I tried a Muramasa as a loaner from a friend. I used it exactly once...opened all the way up. I love the looks of the razor. I love the design. I love how smooth it was. I just wish I could open it to 10 and feel the blade. It's a great razor. I just like more blade feel and gap on the top end. Now...if daily shaving was my thing....I'd likely have this razor for sure.

The 2020/2022 Sailor is almost perfect for me. Only draw backs are weight and bulk (2020 head especially). I also wish it was user serviceable. The Sailor appeals to my eye. It is quite attractive and very well made. The MC is the best of the lot...and I have almost all of them.

I had a Janus. I used it a handful of times. It went right back. I had no use for it.

I know this isn't much help.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Interesting list that has been composed and really some phenomenal razors that are mentioned. Honestly, I think I’ve only owned/sampled two thirds of the razors mentioned above. I’m not writing here to refute/oppose or to bring contradictory argument for any of these great shaving tools. However, I will bring to light those razors that I have found to be quite significant in terms of performance, ease of use and execution of design. I will only bring 5 razors to the table that have elicited the so called “wow” factor from me using them. As always, this is a very subjective endeavor as what one can expect to achieve with a tool and is paramount that the greatest rule one should always be aware of is the YMMV edict. I know, some say that saying is preposterous but, until we can find a universal answer to this ever eternal dilemma, that’s the rule. Come up with something better or unlock the code on why there is no universally proven fact why some razors work for some and not for others.

Laymen’s Terms and in using the K.I.S.S. Principle, it is what it is. Vaguely, call it a Singularity as we just don’t know the “why” end result.

I’ll begin with the Gibbs Reglable. Why? Quite simply it’s one of the greatest razors ever made. Fully adjustable, as smooth and cool as the other side of a pillow. Low profile head, brass alloy construction with chrome plating. It offers an infinite amount of adjustment while maintaining ease of use throughout its range and keeping blade harshness to a minimum. Yes, the blades were proprietary and to use the Gibbs Reglable, one needs to modify current DE blades to fit. The handle is made of a plastic that can become brittle with time. Some even think the weight bias of the razor is to much geared towards the head and they might be right. But, make no mistake or sell this razor short. It’s as formidable a shaving tool that can not only compete with the best from yesterday or today but, it can surpass them in shaving performance brilliance. Yup, it’s that fudging good. Besides, the Rex Ambassador, Taiga and even the Muramasa have very similar design details to this Titan of shaving razors. It’s copied for a reason fellas.

Next is either the FatBoy, Slim, Black Beauty 109/84 offerings from Gillette. And this pick is rather simple yet extremely important in adjustable shaving terms (actually, in all shaving points). There is simply no other series of adjustable razors on the planet that have been accepted by more men or women than either one of these iterations from the house of Gillette. It’s the easiest format for a razor in terms of total ease of use from installing a blade to adjusting to one’s preferred gap size. The TTO mechanism/blade tray paired with the numbered dial adjustment was a coup for Gillette and literally a stroke of pure genius & brilliance. They dominate wet shave land when we talk about razors that we can adjust. For every modern razor you mention or list, the Gillette versions are mentioned tens if not hundreds of times over against those made today. A testament to the sheer production volume that Gillette commanded and executed during that era. The razors themselves are excellent with quality components and a majority of it in brass. Twist open the silo-styled doors, drop in your blade, close it back up with your preferred setting and away you go. Doesn’t get any simpler. Not infinitely adjustable but, there are more than enough settings to nearly satisfy every type face and beard. I own a Slim and it shaves amazingly well. Do I have others that shave as good if not better? Absolutely but, there is a workmanlike feel and aura to the Gillette adjustables that frankly no other razor maker can match. It just works and it works well.

Now this one quite possibly was the razor that gave me the “Aha!” type of reaction. And that is the HomelikeShaving Taiga SS. Think of the Gibbbs Reglable but, in an exotic alloy in Stainless Steel (not so exotic in today’s field) from head to toe. A bit heavier but, exceptionally balanced and constructed. A truly simple yet brilliant design that allows the razor to be taken apart in seconds for clean up or just maintenance. To me and just me it shaves tremendously close to the Gibbs and at times I think it’s an added extension of that legendary razor. The smoothness that it exhibits for a stainless alloy constructed razor is unparalleled in my experience. From 1-6 on that adjustment dial it is pure perfection, almost. Still it has the capability of it being over-clocked for lack of a better term in creating more aggression/blade feel without sacrificing smoothness and ease of use throughout that over-clocked range. Does one really need a razor to go two full turns to shave? Of course not. If you do your better off using a 7/8 Wedge or better for your shaving needs. Nonetheless, it’s incredible how much this razor can go past it’s standard gap sizes/increments and still be in large part quite useable. Whether in sb or oc configuration, it’s a stellar performer and is one of the La Creme de la creme in razor adjustables. For me it bests the Gibbs on shave performance and only one other razor stands with it toe to toe though, I give the slightest of margins to the Taiga.

If there was a razor that one could think was made for the Olympians that reside on Mt. Olympus, this is the razor that comes to mind (maybe the LE version with the gold accents would fit the bill better) and that is the Rocnel Sailor ‘21. Brilliantly engineered and constructed with a look and feel all its own. This razor has shave pedigree of the highest order. From mild to wild with a simple twist of the knob it delivers well past one’s expectations. Made up of entirely 316/316L Stainless, finished to almost jewel like appearance it is a magnificent tool. It is the only razor that I have ever used that I can leave on the base setting or 0 and still get a pretty decent shave. No other adjustable does that for me. Between 2-5 this is shave nirvana. I get the combination in feel of the Taiga & Gibbs within that range with the ‘21 Sailor. Just maybe by the slimmest of margins they are smoother but, the efficiency of the Sailor is just nearly unbeatable. And yes, this behemoth is infinitely adjustable and goes well beyond it’s limits for those that want to venture into the “Danger Zone” of high gap, high efficiency razors. Unfortunately, that is what for me is the drawback or chink in the armor for the Sailor ‘21. Once I get past the 5 setting, the razor does start to show a bit more more blade feel and slight harshness that gets more pronounced once one goes into over-clocked mode. To me, there is no gain in the higher gaps as compared to the Gibbs and Taiga as you can push those to similarly that area of aggression and still be quite comfortable in shaving with them though also at the expense of loosing some smoothness and ease of feel on the skin. You can still shave with the Sailor in that range but, you are going to have to respect and show a very good amount of skill and technique to achieve your shave without any mishaps, more so than with the other aforementioned 2 razors. Consequently, to me and my experience it out shaves the Gibbs and kind of out shaves the Taiga as well but, not so decisively as I had previously thought when I paired them up against each other some time ago. Let me put it this way. If you want supreme comfort and value that over anything else while still wanting effective efficiency and ease of use, I’d recommend either the Taiga or Gibbs. Because even if you want to skip a day or two maybe even a week between shaves, those two can do it easier and just as efficiently as the ‘21 Sailor. However, if you want one razor and you can care less what it can do above its intended range and price not being an issue, the ‘21 Sailor is as good as it gets. It covers EVERY RAZOR that one may have or is going to ever have. The investment to me is well worth it because it practically makes very other razor redundant/obsolete. Yes, including Wolfman, Timeless and you name it, it fits here. By the way, I sold my Taiga SS recently. Why? I’m chasing the Ti version of it. Love the alloy and I’ve been trending a bit towards lighter razors….

Oh no! How dare you Gus! Well, this razor is one of my favorites not because of its construction and alloy but, more because of how it performs for me. It’s uglier than Sin itself while also being the heaviest and most cumbersome razor I own. So why do I still have it and use it? Because it shaves insanely well. Yeah, the Merkur Vision or 2000 to some. Yes, it is a bit of a sentimental pick but, the performance is undeniably there. It gives me smooth and consistent BBS shaves with all the others mentioned above without a single issue. The TTO mechanism is a bit more complicated than say those from Gillette or the Model T from RockWell but, it still holds the blade firmly and equal on both sides. Maintenance is a bit more complicated or extensive compared to any razor ever made but, to me it has become second nature and is a joy to own and use. I do have another NOS razor and enough parts on the internals to replace them a half dozen times. I know, it’s not ideal yet, I enjoy the razor and its performance and feel it is totally worth the time and investment. Insert the YMMV rule right here…..

Again, these 5 are not intended to encourage others to dump what they have and make a beeline to an online retailer or auction site. Rather just a comparative view on what I deem are the best adjustable razors that I have used to date. The good thing is that there will be some down the road that I’m looking forward too in acquiring in the near future and my experience for these marvels of shaving is forever changing and morphing. I’d be more than happy with what I have but, what fun would it be for me then if I stop chasing the next experience?

It’s a hobby that I thoroughly enjoy and these debates are part of the draw for me. To be totally honest gentlemen, we’ve got it real good these days with the choices given us in today’s wet shave era…..

Great shaves to all.

Jim...I am an odd bird. I have odd dislikes. For instance, I dislike the looks of the Gibbs and would never own one. I don't even care to try one. I don't like anything that looks like a Gibbs, which is a bunch of new stuff. I tried to get over it once by trying what I recall to be a Taiga in SS, on a pass-a-round. It had different base plates...and LEFT had threads. What a monstrosity. I used it exactly once, cleaned/boxed it up, and sent it on without ever posting a review. Toldya...odd by any definition.

I also have odd shaving patterns. Rarely ever 2 days in a row or more than 2 times a week. My average growth per shave is probably 5-7 days. For me, the enjoyable part of shaving is slaying a 7 day beard in 1 pass. I always do 2.5 passes total...but taking everything off in 1 pass is the best. I also crave blade feel. Not aggressive/harsh or tuggy...just full contact, no question where it is and what it is doing.

It's hard for me to find a razor that does all of that and still remains smooth with big gaps.

I tried a Muramasa as a loaner from a friend. I used it exactly once...opened all the way up. I love the looks of the razor. I love the design. I love how smooth it was. I just wish I could open it to 10 and feel the blade. It's a great razor. I just like more blade feel and gap on the top end. Now...if daily shaving was my thing....I'd likely have this razor for sure.

The 2020/2022 Sailor is almost perfect for me. Only draw backs are weight and bulk (2020 head especially). I also wish it was user serviceable. The Sailor appeals to my eye. It is quite attractive and very well made. The MC is the best of the lot...and I have almost all of them.

I had a Janus. I used it a handful of times. It went right back. I had no use for it.

I know this isn't much help.

I'm still processing these and will be for a while, but both are very helpful. I greatly appreciate the work and thought that went into the two great responses.

Of course I had to search around for the unobtanium Merkur Vision. Interesting razor. Makes me wonder how it compares with the other Merkur adjustables, but that's a question for another time.

You gentlemen certainly have much different views of the Taiga. Also very similar views of the Sailor.

I have much to consider including whether I want another adjustable to go along with my Gillette Executive and Pearl Flexi. (I have a few others but these are the only two I consider worth claiming.)

I'm a daily shaver. I don't object to some blade feel but I certainly don't relish it or crave it and could do without it.





I have one little question. Concerning the Taiga. Their material says this: "razor handle (left-hand thread)." I'm not sure what that means. My guess is it means the handle can be removed, but that it unscrews in the wrong direction. (As compared with what we think of as "normal" handles.) If that's the case, could another handle be used to replace the stock handle assuming the thread were also left handed?

Thank you both so much and happy shaves,

Jim