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Chan Eil Whiskers
Fumbling about.
New one on me. Cool tool.
Yes, officer, I do have shaving soap in my other pocket.
New one on me. Cool tool.
Oh, wow! Beautiful job of it. Really nice looking scales. Really, really, really nice.
What thickness was the Kirinite to begin with and where did you buy it? Those are nice scales.
Nice blade, too, but you made the scales.
Happy shaves,
Jim
The acetone did not soften the epoxy bond but it did a number on the scales. I may have caught it in time so they may or may not be ruined. I'm going to look at them again tomorrow, but they're out of the acetone and air drying.
View attachment 935471
Live and learn. Not a huge deal. I'm always learning from my mistakes.
Happy shaves,
Jim
A very quick look on Ebay.ca gave me this.
White Pearl Kirinite 1/4" x 1.5" x 5" (pair) | eBay
View attachment 935486
All in thats almost $50CAD. Thats pricey.
1/4" is way too thick and yep thats pricey.
Also, 5" long is too short. Needs to be 6".
JB Supply UK | eBay Stores
A very quick look on Ebay.ca gave me this.
White Pearl Kirinite 1/4" x 1.5" x 5" (pair) | eBay
View attachment 935486
All in thats almost $50CAD. Thats pricey.
Thanks Jim.
The kirinite was 1/8", same as the first set of scales I made. But this time I spent some time sanding them down and tapering the edges. The moto saw cut them close to the outline I wanted and didn't have to spend hours sanding them into shape...The red one is called "True Blood" and the middle one is "Patriot" dark one is "Black Magic Pearl".
It's also 1/4" which is way too thick. 1/8" has to be sanded to make it thinner.
Thanks. You did a great job of it.
You mentioned in an earlier post how difficult the sanding to thin the scales was and how slow. How did you overcome that problem?
Thanks and happy shaves,
Jim
1/16 or even 1/32 would be better for the knife scales I have in mind. I havent looked around much, my enthusiasm is waning.
Kirinite offers an unusual blend of durability and workability. Unlike other acrylic materials, it’s not brittle, so it resists chipping and cracking. Sanding, shaping, drilling, and buffing are also easy with Kirinite…when treated with just a bit of restraint, the material won't melt, seize your drill bit, or warp when being worked.
You don’t need special tools to work with Kirinite, either…whether you’re accustomed to working with wood, plastics, stone, bone, or other substances, you can use the same tools on Kirinite without fouling the tools or compromising the beauty or integrity of the material.
Here’s an example of what professionals are saying about working with Kirinite:
“I’ve never had a problem with Kirinite. It’s easy to shape and sand, and you can finish it any way you want…you can polish it like a gem, give it a satin finish, or whatever you can imagine. I’d rather work with Kirinite than with wood, because the Kirinite is more forgiving.”
— Ryan Carlson, NYKM
“Kirinite is excellent to work with…it’s not chippy, grainy, or melty. Other polymers tend to heat up and cling to drill bits and other machinery, but Kirinite keeps its stability. Plus, it polishes beautifully, and has a good, rich feel in the hand.”
– Mike “Whiskers” Allen, WhiskersKnives.com
“Kirinite is very stable…it doesn’t shrink, it’s easy to shape, easy to sand…in fact, it’s the easiest stuff to work with in our shop! It polishes nicely, too…and the more you polish it, the less slippery it gets!”
– Wally Gardner, Canal Street Cutlery
The other set I made earlier this week, the kirinite was 3/16 thick.
I used my dremel to sand it down and made a big mess.
If I want to keep SWMBO on my side I need to avoid that.
First set I made the kirinite was 1/8 thick (same as 3rd). But I shaped the scales by sanding and quite simply, it took so long to I didn't relish more sanding to thin them down as well. So, they stayed at 1/8" thick.
Now with the moto saw I can cut them so close to the shape I need, sanding time is vastly reduced. So, sanding them a bit thinner by hand isn't that big a deal. 1/8" doesn't need much to get to the right thickness.
It still takes a while, but I quite like doing it. Kirinite is nice to work with.
These are the best scales I've made to date. Everything about them is right.
The shape, the wedge, the level of shine to show the kirinite at its best, even the blade centers perfectly.
I polished them starting with 400 then 600 grit W&D.
That removed most of the deep scratches from the initial sanding.
Then using the dremel and felt pads, polished with 5 micron diamond paste until all scratches were gone.
Finished off with CrOx (green 0.3 micron) and then FeOx (red 0.1 micron) - i have a lot of this stuff, compared to diamond paste.
This gave the shine depth and made it pop.
Just what you don't need, Mike, is even more expensive shipping. I'm not a guy who much likes much that the government does (to help us, haha). However, it seems to me that it is in everyone's best interests, including the government's, to make trade as easy as possible. Making shipping terribly expensive seems counter productive if the goal is a strong and vibrant economy and happy citizens.
Pardon my excursion into anything remotely political. I'm sorry it's so hard for you, Mike, to get items which arrive at my place from England and China, etc. with reasonable shipping. Of course, I do shop around for shipping prices (hint: Connaught, if you live in the USA).
Happy shaves,
Jim
I'm hoping it just a temporary thing. I read yesterday that apparently there are 600 tractor trailer loads of mail waiting to be processed. Once they're caught up, hopefully, things will return to normal.
What grit sandpaper did you settle on for sanding the inner surfaces of the scales to get the material thin enough? I have 36, 60, and 80.
In thinning the scales were you shooting for a measured thickness or just eyeballing it?
Did you use the CrOx and FeOx with the Dremel and felt pads?
Jim
Normal?
I'm using up what I have lying around.
Got a small amount of 60 grit left and a big roll of 80 grit. (leftovers from a few months ago when we re-decorated the ground floor of our house)
I have a big old rubber sanding block that I use as a "rest" for the scales as I sand them - quite handy.
Just keep checking as I go along to make sure I'm keeping everything even and not sanding down one side more than the other.
All done with the eye.
I leave both halves stuck together when sanding and only seperate them once they are polished and the pivot hole is drilled.
Keeping the inner surface of the scales as they are, got some inner pivot washers now (didn't have any for the first set I made)
All polishing with diamond paste, CrOx, and FeOx are done with dremel and felt pads.
Keep the speed low, polishing at high speeds tends to throw the polish off everywhere.
Sure it would be so much easier with a belt sander and buffing machine.
But I don't intend to do this on an industrial scale, so a bit of slow manual sanding is fairly theraputic.
At least the moto saw does the hardest job, as I see it, and makes everything else much easier. Plus being able to attach the vacuum cleaner makes it a no brainer in my book.