So the appeal for cycling is that it's low impact, right?
Why do my knees hurt then?
Why do my knees hurt then?
Cycling Knee Pain
- Thread starter AndrewWiggin
- Start date
Because impact isn't the only issue?
From my ancient experience, a good strategy is to learn how to "spin": gearing down to keep a lower force higher speed cadence.
- Chris
From my ancient experience, a good strategy is to learn how to "spin": gearing down to keep a lower force higher speed cadence.
- Chris
Did you have a bike fitting? If so, I'd go back to the place that did it and talk about what you're experiencing. It may be that a few minor adjustments are needed. I'd also look at your pedals to make sure that there are no issues with how your shoes clip in and that position. Finally, not knowing your set up, I don't know if your pedals have any float.
Most likely it's your cleats on your cycling shoes. They may be in a straight line. They should mimic the natural way your feet turn in. Also, you should be peddling with your knees in close to the frame, nearly hitting the top tube. If you are forcing your legs in your cleats are wrong. People have a tendency to let their legs open and use the outside of the ball of the feet do the work and then that throws your whole stroke off and you pedal inefficient and put strain on your knees and hips.
Also, depending on your pedals and cleats there should be some float in them unless you buy cleats that do not allow that but unless you're doing some serious riding you should stay away from those.
Also, depending on your pedals and cleats there should be some float in them unless you buy cleats that do not allow that but unless you're doing some serious riding you should stay away from those.
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Good advice already. Assuming you're on a road bike. Spin - high RPM's = less joint stress. Saddle height - knees bent slightly with the pedal at the bottom. Cleats - I always set mine in the beginning exactly like they sit on the pedal naturally, then gradually brought my heal out, not in, over time.
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That's usually a sign of a poorly fitted bike.
Heals out and toes in....slightly.
Several years ago when I first started riding, I noticed knee pain in my right knee only. When I looked down, I saw that my right knee was slightly wobbling laterally, whereas my left knee stayed consistently in a vertical plane with the rest of my left leg. After some conscious effort to keep my knees consistent, the pain went away. Btw, I use Speedplay X Series pedals that have a huge 28 degree free float. Some people liken it to skating on ice. 
Road or Mountain?
Clipless or flats?
More info needed.
IF road with cleats, find someone that does either FitKit or Serotta fitting.
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That's a definite YMMV
Yeah, pedals are definitely a personal preference. I tried a bunch of different brands before I settled on Crank Bros (for MTB'ing). This was before switching to flats.
I am having a bit of knee pain also. I was starting to wonder if I was adjusted correctly or if my knees are just junk like my shoulders.
When you start putting miles in like you do you definitely begin to notice those little things like adjustments in your bike or poor or lack of efficiency during your pedal stroke. If you feel pain in your knees while riding, stop. There is something wrong.
Practice pedaling. I do one legged pedals at least 30 minutes everyday and concentrate. You should include a 30 minute warm up prior to any major riding.
Do 2x10 minute one legged pedal strokes on flat course. Imagine your feet sliding across the top of the stroke and bottom. NO stomping.
The following 10 minutes is time to prepare and get your legs back from your one legged drills. They get a little jello-ee.
I have about 17 minutes of pretty level ground right in the middle of my ride. If I luck out with the rain situation tomorrow I will give it a shot.
Any advice on tingling hands? Is this also positioning?
Any advice on tingling hands? Is this also positioning?
Tingling hands are common when you put too much weight forward. Usually when you get to this point is when you are beginning to fatigue and you're using the bars as a resting point. Kind of like leaning up against the counter to relieve your feet. Your weight should be centered right over your crank. If you need some relief from your saddle just peddle standing up a bit.
Many riding gloves are made with a pad to help with this problem by adding padding to the palms.
It's not a fixed gear bike, right? If it is, that is a very common problem (and why I can't ride 'em).
The one legged drills will also uncover your dominant leg and it will feel so awkward in the sense of throwing with your opposite hand. You'll soon learn to compensate and relieve the load off the other leg which means more power.
Everything has been covered for the most part. I also would add that when you are pedaling you butt should remain still on the saddle and not move up an down. When you extend your leg at the bottom of the stroke your knee should not be straight and you butt should be horizontal to the ground. This is easy to check by letting someone follow you and watch you from behind. If you have movement it will be noticed by your partner.
Later,
Richard
Later,
Richard
When I moved from mountain biking to road riding I tried to move my fixed (relatively speaking) shimano SPD cleats / pedals onto the new bike. I started having more knee pain than I did mtn biking. I went to a Speedplay Zero pedal and that helped.
The last time I was at the bike shop the owner told me I still had a "real" bike fitting coming to me that he just did a quick once over. Hopefully I can tell him all of my quirks and he can help. I feel I need a slightly shorter stem and that my seat should go back a couple centimeters. This seems like a huge adjustment but I know I am scooting back to far on the saddle, I move to where I feel the most power.
