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Creating faux tortoise shell scales with epoxy

I'm fairly new to straight razor restoration. I purchased a few pre-made acrylic and horn scales, even cut out and shaped a pair of scales from buffalo horn that I used to create a silicone mold. I wasn't satisfied with any of the tortoise shell scales I was seeing on the market, so I decided to try making my own with epoxy. Here are some pictures of the prototype I made:

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I think it looks deceptively good. I've since pulled it apart and am back to the drawing board. A few lessons I learned:
- the scales are far too thick
- the epoxy was too soft for razor scales (unless I'm mixing/pouring it wrong. I've been experimenting with two different types: Puduo, a random brand off Amazon, and Alumilite's Amazing Clear Cast Plus). A few weeks had passed since I first poured the resin, so it should have been plenty cured. It was rigid when cold, but once you've held it in your hand a few minutes, it warms up and becomes "bendy".
- I need to taper down the brass wedge so it is actually a wedge.
- I probably shouldn't be using brass as the wedge, as the scales were far too heavy. We'll see how this changes once I sand the brass down and thin the scales.

Has anyone else tried using epoxy resin to create scales? I'm considering using a harder resin, something like the Alumilite Performance 80D (Performance 80 D - https://www.alumilite.com/resins/performance-80-d/).

I've also experimented with coating acrylic/plexiglass profiles with epoxy. I cutout, shaped and rough sanded down some clear acrylic scales to do so. It could work, but I'm concerned about how it will hold up in the long run, that the epoxy could wear through and peel off. What do others think about using a thin liner to provide the epoxy rigidity? Any suggestions on the material?

Anyways, appreciate any feedback or thoughts. I've enjoyed reading through past forum threads about making scales.


InB4: I haven't sharpened the razor yet. I've sanded it about as much as I care to, but won't sharpen until I get the scales right.
 
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That looks pretty good. I am also a sucker for tortoiseshell but not impressed with most of the current options. I know next to nothing about resins though so can't help you there.
 
It’s been years since I made up resins but had some success with it.
My original goal was making butterscotch brushes.
Then went on and made sheets.
I used a clear casting resin from Dick Blick. Don’t recall the name. It wasn’t a 50/50 mix which is common but drops you added to a given quantity. Just like resins you use for fiberglass.

For my work I’ve been using a company out of Easton Pa called Polytec. There is also Smooth-On in Allentown Pa. These two do serious work.
Others I’ve read about are tough cast, BITY and easy flow.
Here are some bars, blanks, brushes and blades I’ve made as well as casts of carvings I’ve done.
 

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Those brush handles and scales look awesome. Thank you for sharing, its reassuring to know that it can (and has been) done. I'm going check out those brands you recommended. I'll be sure to follow up with the results.
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
Tortoise Kirinite (acrylic) is probably the best and readily available.

I got some thin cellulose material from Rothko and Frost that looks a little more natural, but it would have to be laminated to a clear blank with a non-yellowing glue, and the cellulose side would have to be in next to the steel. Not really a great idea.

The Le Grelots werefone by @Doc226 - and Jamie Mahoney has used tortoise Kirinite a few times. Search the straight razor SOTD thread for ‘Kirinite’

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Tortoise Kirinite (acrylic) is probably the best and readily available.

I got some thin cellulose material from Rothko and Frost that looks a little more natural, but it would have to be laminated to a clear blank with a non-yellowing glue, and the cellulose side would have to be in next to the steel. Not really a great idea.

The Le Grelots werefone by @Doc226 - and Jamie Mahoney has used tortoise Kirinite a few times. Search the straight razor SOTD thread for ‘Kirinite’

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I'm a bit conservative, but I must say that Kirinite is probably the perfect material for scales. I've been very impressed by it. But, I wouldn't mind seeing a few more subdued offerings.
 
Tortoise Kirinite (acrylic) is probably the best and readily available.

I got some thin cellulose material from Rothko and Frost that looks a little more natural, but it would have to be laminated to a clear blank with a non-yellowing glue, and the cellulose side would have to be in next to the steel. Not really a great idea.

The Le Grelots werefone by @Doc226 - and Jamie Mahoney has used tortoise Kirinite a few times. Search the straight razor SOTD thread for ‘Kirinite’

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So this is one of the products I'd seen that left me dissatisfied. I wish the color were a deeper amber, and I'm not a fan of the pattern. Kirinite seems like great material otherwise. I'm still determined to figure out which plastic I can actually design and make will work best.
 
I'm a bit conservative, but I must say that Kirinite is probably the perfect material for scales. I've been very impressed by it. But, I wouldn't mind seeing a few more subdued offerings.
Yeah,, a bit garish. Somehow misses the mark.
 
I have only tried a few times but have found that the acrylic type plastics (incl kirinite) are easier to get polished and scratch free - clear casting resin takes a little more work. I am not in the USA so not sure of suppliers but you are likely to get cheaper options and in faster curing resins if you choose the non-clear ones. With you coloring the slabs - no need to pay extra for the clear options.
Even after the 24 hr curing times i have waited a couple extra days before sanding and polishing resin, I find the resin still relatively pliable after the stated curing times.
The pattern looks good - I hope it works.
 
Welp, I've gotta start over. I got rough cuts out with my rotary tool, then dropped one of the scales, which broke. I also wasnt too thrilled with the colors. I should've taken a picture of the slab before I cut in. The black spots faded quite a bit and were ultimately dark translucent spots.
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Also, because I'm a glutton for punishment, I tried casting anothee set of epoxy scales. The colors turned out great, but cured epoxy this thin is simply too pliable.
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it will harden over a few days to be stronger. My opinion is that its not worth the hassle when options to buy relatvely cheap acrylic pieces are out there. I like using casting epoxy resin to make micarta - this allows some personalised taste but wont staisfy your desire for tortoise shell im afraid.
 
it will harden over a few days to be stronger. My opinion is that its not worth the hassle when options to buy relatvely cheap acrylic pieces are out there. I like using casting epoxy resin to make micarta - this allows some personalised taste but wont staisfy your desire for tortoise shell im afraid.

My brain knows you're right, but my heart won't let me give up. I've been using resin dyes thus far, I'm going to give acrylic paints a shot with the polyester resin.
 
Congratulations.
I went through a couple gallons ( at considerable expense at the time) until I got the hang of it. Seems for thin pieces ( unless you cast a big rod/ block) you need a hotter mix.

I made a “jig” that would produce a panel roughly 7x 3 about 1/4”
Thick. Controlling for bubbles, unless you have a vacuum chamber is tricky. Stirring, a slow pour and at times a torch over the surface helps release them.
 
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