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Cracking the Gokumyo 2K code

It is very common to see the opinion that the Suehiro Gokumyo 20K is the best synthetic razor finishing stone out there. Having finally broken down and obtained one, I agree. The blade was both impressively keen and impressively comfortable. Not at the level of the very top JNat results, but awfully darned close. I was seriously impressed. For me, it exceeded the results from the Naniwa 10K (comfortable, but not keen enough) and the Shapton 30K (functional, good shave, but somehow not adding up to an appealing experience compared to other finishers). I don't have the Naniwa 12K, so can't compare with that.

What is not so common is to see a single written word about a 2K stone in the Gokumyo series, the 2K DGL-203. It has the deluxe trappings of the 20K -- even more so, in a way. It is larger, has a 150 grit stone on its back, and comes with a rubber stone holder, much like the 20K.

It also shares the intent of the 20K, in that it was built to prioritize stone wear above everything. That means very dense abrasive. As a woodworking hobbyist in a former life, I do not find this hard to understand. Anyone who has worn a trench in his King stone trying to flatten the back of a 1/4" Japanese chisel would understand.

But having acquired this stone in a momentary impulse, I faced the problem of what possible good it is for me? I will spare you a recitation of the many unsuccessful experiments with knives and razors, using my usual approach, and cut straight to the solution: use heavy pressure.

With heavy pressure, applied not only at the beginning of the process, but all the way through the end, when I would usually be applying only the most delicate touch, this is a darned good bevel setter, maybe a truly excellent one. I never let up on the pressure once, and wound up with an edge that competes with a SG 1K/SG 2K sequence.

In retrospect, this is not surprising. The Method relies on a light touch and light abrasive density. Honing in general relies on a light touch with the final strokes. So it makes sense that the most revered synthetic hone is very restrained about exposing its abrasive, and that its low-grit counterpart shines only by applying enough pressure to expose the right amount of abrasive for that more aggressive job. Happy to have figured this out.

I'm not saying you should spring for this expensive stone. I'm just saying i finally figured out how to make it dance to my tune, and I am very pleased with the results.

Now I have to figure out what to do with the 150 grit underside. Not razor honing, certainly. Hmmm, maybe I should buy a machete.
 
Probably because it does not do anything that a $20 King 1k will not do.

There are a lot of good 1 and 2k’s on the market. Really the bevel setter is just a grinder, what ever it takes to get the bevels flat and meeting is all that counts.

The 20k is a good finisher, on a good edge you just need 3-4 laps.
 
Well I cant even find the stone itself on the Suehiro's website.
I bought the 2k Shapton glass after I was reading Steve's experience with Shapton's( I had lost my 1k chosera and needed a new bevel setter) and I am very happy with that whole line. They cut like crazy, no need for heavy pressure. 🤷‍♂️
Chosera 1k, 3k also works very well.
As H Brad said, cant see a reason to be adding another one.
 
Oh, yes, the Shapton Glass line is my favorite, and I have many of them. My go-to bevel setter is the SG 1K, and it works much better than others I've tried. I just like to play around with different stones, and was pleased to find the key to this one.
 
After i got my 2k gs seven and my 2k Naniwa pro my 1k gets almost no use anymore. They cut fast enough for a bevel setter, and sets the edge up nicely for a 4 to 6k in an progression. An 2k stone gets you a nice working edge on other knifes as well. Why is the 1k almost considered the default when it comes to bevel setting?
 
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After i got my 2k gs seven and my 2k Naniwa pro my 1k gets almost no use anymore. They cut fast enough for a bevel setter, and sets the edge up nicely for a 4 to 6k in an progression. A 2k stone gets you a nice working edge on other knifes as well. Why is the 1k almost considered the default when it comes to bevel setting?
I've had plenty of secondhand razors that need a lot of metal taken off. 1K GS is the coarsest stone I've found that does not make scratches that are really painful to fully take out on higher grits, even at high pressure, so I use that.

Even if there does not seem to be a need to take a lot of metal off, getting a true, under the microscope, even set of lines that go all the way to the edge on every part of the bevel, often takes a long time on the 1K, and would take even longer on a 2K.
 
I've had plenty of secondhand razors that need a lot of metal taken off. 1K GS is the coarsest stone I've found that does not make scratches that are really painful to fully take out on higher grits, even at high pressure, so I use that.

Even if there does not seem to be a need to take a lot of metal off, getting a true, under the microscope, even set of lines that go all the way to the edge on every part of the bevel, often takes a long time on the 1K, and would take even longer on a 2K.
That makes sense. The 2k stones really seems to cut quite fast and does not have that "gritty" sensation though. For chip removal and bevel reshaping i usually use an dmt 1200 and using the 1k as a "conversion" stone after i joint the edge.
For me an 2k stone is really handy for lighter bevel work. It just seems like the 2k falls between other popular grits and are not used that much.
 
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