My head is spinning trying to figure out what would be the best lapping plate/stone for a yellow belgium coticule and my vintage barber hone. Lets here your preference and why.......
Coticule & Barbers Hone Lapping Plate?
- Thread starter rosborne
- Start date
I used 300-400 grit sandpaper on glass for my combo coti, but don't have a barber's hone.
I did the same for my barber's hone, but my coti came pre-lapped.
Also, once you get them lapped, you shouldn't have to lap them again for a long time. Both are harder than nortons, naniwas, etc and don't require frequent lapping like they do.
I use 400-grit silicon carbide "wet or dry" sandpaper on a granite tile ($10 at Home Depot). It took two sheets of sandpaper to flatten my newly-bought old barber hone. That thing is _hard_!!!
Sandpaper is the cheapest way to sharpen (or flatten) any single item. You can buy a lot of sandpaper for the cost of a DMT diamond hone. The DMT may be a better long-term value, but I may be dead before I'd make back the cost.
Charles
Sandpaper is the cheapest way to sharpen (or flatten) any single item. You can buy a lot of sandpaper for the cost of a DMT diamond hone. The DMT may be a better long-term value, but I may be dead before I'd make back the cost.
Charles
- Thread starter
- #6
So this DMT Diamond Hone, what model is the choice model? a D8C?
If a coticule I bought is smooth but not flat I simply slurry with a DMT plate until it's flat. If however it has scratches/gouges, I have to lap it before doing any honing, so I lap it on the DMT. In both cases I use a XC, though I'm sure an XXC or C would work.
I've never even considered lapping a new coticule. They're plenty smooth/flat. I'm just talking about used vintages.
I've never even considered lapping a new coticule. They're plenty smooth/flat. I'm just talking about used vintages.
- Thread starter
- #9
OK, I was under the impression that even a new coticule should be lapped. But hey, I'm REALLY new to this and have know idea what's right.
If it makes you feel better, lap it. If it is quite flat to start with you won't waste a lot of time or stone.
Phil
I lapped mine just to be sure but that is just my personal preferance. I have a DMT D8C and sandpaper. The DMT is new so it leaves noticable scratch marks on my hones so i lap one more time using 600 grit sandpaper. If youdon't want to spend the money for a DMT get yourself a glass plate (because of it's flatness) and some course sandpaper on up to some fine grits. For me its 320 and 600. For your barber hone you may want to go courser in your grits because it's going to take longer to lap it. Barber hones are really hard. I have an Apart barber hone and it's the hardest hone i own by far.
I lap all my stones with sandpaper on a tile
Consider this. Bart doesn't lap the stones he tests in the coticule vault. They are flat but have been lapped with a *very* course lapping plate (less than 40 grit, IIRC). They do smooth out with use, too, and dish very slowly. Build slurry on the areas that get used less during honing, and you should have a flat stone for the rest of your life. Being dead flat within micron tolerances is important for certain optical applications, not honing razors.
For the barber hone, it's another question because their abrasiveness comes from their surface structure. Just run through a progression of sand papers since you won't need to lap it again.
For the barber hone, it's another question because their abrasiveness comes from their surface structure. Just run through a progression of sand papers since you won't need to lap it again.
