Compulsory safety razor blade question

[Fen]

I've been trying wet shaving a few times now. (About 4-5 shaves I'd say) After I got my starter kit from a shop here in Norway.

My razor is a Mühle R89 and I've tried both Astra Superior Platinum and Derby Extra. The Astra SP came by default, while I ordered the Derby's just to test a different set of blades. Also got some Mühle blades that followed the razor package. But I haven't given those a try yet.

Tried the Derby Extra a few days ago. And they tugged a lot. But I used an electric clipper pre-shave to get rid of a lot of hair. Since it had been a while since my last shave. And tried it again today against 3 days worth of growth. But still felt tugging on my chin. So I ended up switching back to an Astra blade. But there was tugging on this too. Especially when I went against the grain on my throat.

I'm not ready to throw in the towel regarding the Astra just yet. Since to be fair the blade was used before. And this is just the second blade out of the package. But I plan to buy a few other types of blades.

Suspect my beard is of the tougher kind. It certainly feels rougher than the hair on my head. Which is very soft. It is my chin, around my mouth and my neck where stuff can get though. Even my old electric razor has always required multiple passes around those areas. (Especially my neck)

Gotten a few nicks here and there during my shaves and some slight razor burns. From going over a spot multiple times with different directions. But I blame that on technique. And my upper lip really dislikes going against the grain.

Already decided to get a few Feather blades to test them out. And a few Personna Platinums after reading a review of them, and after getting a tip from the shop I've used. In particular the reviewer tried Astra and Derby and felt they tugged. While the Personna ones were smooth. Hench why I am willing to give those a try.

I've also seen some people around here mention the Gillette 7 O'Clock series (no particular color), Rubie (Gillette – Rubie Platinum?) (For days when irritation might be an issue), Iridium (unsure about what type) and Perma-Sharp – Super. Just to mention a few.

So yeah, the options quickly stacks up. So I wouldn't mind getting a few tips. The shop I use doesn't offer a huge sample pack. So I figured I'd order a few blades individually from one of those pick as many blades as you want sites. That I have seen people share here.

 

[Cumberland Sausage]

My view is that Astra SP blades are good, as are Feathers, but the Derby Extra and Muhle blades are mediocre. Having said that, my advice would be to stick with just one blade type at the moment. The vital thing is to develop your technique, which will take quite a while -- several weeks, at the least, but more likely a few months. Swapping around between different brand blades will not help, because you'll never be sure whether any improvement or deterioration in results is down to you, or the blade.

 

[BigJ]

So many variables!! To me the biggest is that your technique is changing. So I also endorse the concept of picking one set-up and sticking with that until your technique is reasonably solid.

The other thing is that blades are very much YMMV, perhaps more than anything else in traditional wet shaving. You really need to try things to see what works best for you.

That said, I really like Astra SP. Derby Extras are simply not for me, although Derby Premiums are fine. You should consider purchasing a blade sampler pack or two.

 

[xxvaleria]

Welcome to the club. Glad to have you aboard. Four to Five shaves is not long enough to develop your technique. I'd continue to work on that before exploring other blades. Astra SPs pair very well with mu Edwin Jagger DE89 and should work equally well with your Muehle--after all they share the same shaving head. Stick with one combination for a month or more before trying something else.

 

[olegunnar]

Yes what xxvaleria is saying. Stick with one combination for a month! If you go over the same spot as you said remember to put lather back on in between passes.
Also search around this forum on pre-shave routines as that in my opinion matters even more than blades.

 

[Fen]

Welcome to the club. Glad to have you aboard. Four to Five shaves is not long enough to develop your technique. I'd continue to work on that before exploring other blades. Astra SPs pair very well with mu Edwin Jagger DE89 and should work equally well with your Muehle--after all they share the same shaving head. Stick with one combination for a month or more before trying something else.

Alright, that sounds reasonable. Best to listen to those with experience. Time to order some more Astra blades and keep going.

 

[ajkel64]

Welcome and thanks for sharing. I wouldn’t change to much at the start. I would develop your technique first and then make some changes. A blade sampler pack might be a great idea and you can just try some blades to find what you like and what suits your skin. When it all falls into place, and it will. It is a wonderful feeling.

 

[Zipslack]

You may want to experiment with your angle and make sure of your hair direction before chasing blades. Try going shallow on one shave and then try steep angle. I typically go steep on WTG and XTG, them go shallow for ATG.

 

[NickCutlip]

Welcome to the forum !!

 

[fast shaver]

Sounds like a beard prep issue to me with the Astra blade. The Derby Extra is a tuggy blade no matter what IMO.

 

[Iloverootbeer]

Use a good pre-shave balm to provide some extra slickness. With a decent blade it will cut down on the tugging and irritation

 

[mawashi]

I've been trying wet shaving a few times now. (About 4-5 shaves I'd say) After I got my starter kit from a shop here in Norway.

My razor is a Mühle R89 and I've tried both Astra Superior Platinum and Derby Extra. The Astra SP came by default, while I ordered the Derby's just to test a different set of blades. Also got some Mühle blades that followed the razor package. But I haven't given those a try yet.

Tried the Derby Extra a few days ago. And they tugged a lot. But I used an electric clipper pre-shave to get rid of a lot of hair. Since it had been a while since my last shave. And tried it again today against 3 days worth of growth. But still felt tugging on my chin. So I ended up switching back to an Astra blade. But there was tugging on this too. Especially when I went against the grain on my throat.

I'm not ready to throw in the towel regarding the Astra just yet. Since to be fair the blade was used before. And this is just the second blade out of the package. But I plan to buy a few other types of blades.

Suspect my beard is of the tougher kind. It certainly feels rougher than the hair on my head. Which is very soft. It is my chin, around my mouth and my neck where stuff can get though. Even my old electric razor has always required multiple passes around those areas. (Especially my neck)

Gotten a few nicks here and there during my shaves and some slight razor burns. From going over a spot multiple times with different directions. But I blame that on technique. And my upper lip really dislikes going against the grain.

Already decided to get a few Feather blades to test them out. And a few Personna Platinums after reading a review of them, and after getting a tip from the shop I've used. In particular the reviewer tried Astra and Derby and felt they tugged. While the Personna ones were smooth. Hench why I am willing to give those a try.

I've also seen some people around here mention the Gillette 7 O'Clock series (no particular color), Rubie (Gillette – Rubie Platinum?) (For days when irritation might be an issue), Iridium (unsure about what type) and Perma-Sharp – Super. Just to mention a few.

So yeah, the options quickly stacks up. So I wouldn't mind getting a few tips. The shop I use doesn't offer a huge sample pack. So I figured I'd order a few blades individually from one of those pick as many blades as you want sites. That I have seen people share here.

I can't speak for others but I have pretty hard, tough hair that resembles nylon bristles.

Astras are my least favourite blades as they are pretty rough and don't seem to cut as well as other blades.

I have a preference for super sharp blades so I love Nacets, Feathers but BICs have moved to the very top for me.

Happy shaves,
. Mawashi

 

[Fen]

Switched to a new Astra SP and after two shaves with a few days between I still havent noticed any tugging like I did before. So perhaps I was dealing with a dull blade. I'll admit that I changed my prep and used the "Kyle's prep" guide. And I'm inclined to believe that it is an ideal prep for me. Can't say I noticed any difference when it came to shaving after taking a shower while using this particular prep today.

It certainly adds another level of comfort. Either way.

Got a batch of 50 Astra SP blades on the way from the UK. And even though I am just two shaves in after I posted this topic, I've started to notice that I am learning the angles better. Even though I still got a long way to go. But it is certainly motivating to continue. So I'll keep using the Astra SP blades. But I do plan to order a few other blades very soon, and try them later down the line.

 

[DeVrinj]

To see what kind of blade you like, do try sharp ones like Feather or Gillette Nacet and smooth, forgiving ones like Treet Platinum or Wilkinson. Astra and Derby are renowned to fall in the second category, but for some reason even though Astras get great reviews, it never worked for me as a top blade. Your technique will improve with practice no matter what, so I would really encourage you to try several blades. Also, for many of us, changing blades is part of the fun and experience...

 

[RayClem]

It is my belief that many new razors are shipped with Shark Super Chrome, Derby Extra, Merkur, VDH and Astra SP blades because they tend to be more forgiving than sharper blades. Those just learning to shave with a DE might be scared away if they were to use a sharper blade to start. For my tough beard, the only ones sharp enough for my beard are Astra SP and then only if used in an aggressive razor.

I suggest purchasing a sampler pack with a variety of blades ranging from the least sharp all the way up to the sharpest (Feather). The blades that will work best for you will depend upon the coarseness of your beard, the sensitivity of your face, and the aggressiveness of your razor.

With a coarse beard and sensitive face, I look for blades that are sharp, yet smooth. In mild razors like a VDH TTO/Weishi, I love using the very sharpest blades (Feather, BIC Chrome Platinum, Nacet). However, those blades are too sharp for my skin if used in a aggressive razor. In moderately aggressive razors, I like using 7 O'Clock Black, Dorco Prime Platinum STP301, Personna Israeli Red, German Wilkinson Sword Classic, Astra Superior Stainless, Personna Lab Blue, and Rapira. They are just slightly less sharp than the sharpest blades. In aggressive razors, I like using mid-sharp blades like 7 O'Clock Green, Gillette Silver Blue, Gillette branded Wilkinson Sword, Polsilver, Voskhod, and 7 O'Clock Yellow. I can use an Astra SP in an aggressive razor, but I much prefer sharper blades.

 

[Robknock31]

Welcome aboard.

Astra > Derby. But I suppose it depends on the Razor. Derby might be perfectly fine on a more aggressive razor. Sometimes tugging can be blade angle or the skin is not tight enough. I get tugging on my chin if I don't pull the right face.

Check the razor aligns correctly in all the correct places to.

 

[johnwick]

Welcome!

The best advice I can give when it comes to DE shaving is that it’s a process of “beard reduction”. The first pass with the grain will get some of it. A second pass across the grain will get more. A third pass *potentially* against the grain will get you further along. Try to ensure the final against the grain pass is cutting minimal hair to avoid the tugging. I think the Astra SP is a great place to stay for right now. Derby extra on the other hand does not work for many, including me. Regardless of technique or the razor I choose, they tug for me as well. Good luck!

 

[Fen]

Don't think I have shaved since my last post. But decided to give it a try again today. After first reducing the amount of hair with a clipper for a second time. (planned to try to shave earlier in the week)

And of course a surprise hit me today. I felt confidence and shaved with light strokes and with a slight bigger pass than usual. And the shave felt more effective when I didn't focus that much. First with the grain and then across the grain. There is still hair of course but the shave felt more even on my face.

As for my neck it felt more even as well, but there are still some spots that I feel are noticible. Had to do a slight toch up under my chin and above my adam's apple. But I feel that once I learn to master reduction across my neck I could with confidence go around looking like I do after two passes.

There was some slight irritation on two or three spots on my neck and one above my lip. But I have some slight blemishes there right now. So I feel that they might have played a part. And I might have gotten a tiny bit overconfident on my neck. My typical spots where I usually get razor burns was completly fine. And the alum stone almost didn't give any feedback, other than on the spots I have mentioned.

I added two things I have learned from a few videoes on YouTube. One related more to stretching the skin (was uncertain how to do it at certain spots) and what spots to shave after each other. This led to a more effective shave that was faster than my previous ones.

I also finally got those damn pesky "whiskers" on my jawline. that I have struggled with before.

Can't wait to try with a fresh astra blade to see what the results are already. Also got a delivery of some sample blades a while back. So I cant wait to try those either, after I have shaved a lot more with the astra blades of course.

 

[Iloverootbeer]

Don't think I have shaved since my last post. But decided to give it a try again today. After first reducing the amount of hair with a clipper for a second time. (planned to try to shave earlier in the week)

And of course a surprise hit me today. I felt confidence and shaved with light strokes and with a slight bigger pass than usual. And the shave felt more effective when I didn't focus that much. First with the grain and then across the grain. There is still hair of course but the shave felt more even on my face.

As for my neck it felt more even as well, but there are still some spots that I feel are noticible. Had to do a slight toch up under my chin and above my adam's apple. But I feel that once I learn to master reduction across my neck I could with confidence go around looking like I do after two passes.

There was some slight irritation on two or three spots on my neck and one above my lip. But I have some slight blemishes there right now. So I feel that they might have played a part. And I might have gotten a tiny bit overconfident on my neck. My typical spots where I usually get razor burns was completly fine. And the alum stone almost didn't give any feedback, other than on the spots I have mentioned.

I added two things I have learned from a few videoes on YouTube. One related more to stretching the skin (was uncertain how to do it at certain spots) and what spots to shave after each other. This led to a more effective shave that was faster than my previous ones.

I also finally got those damn pesky "whiskers" on my jawline. that I have struggled with before.

Can't wait to try with a fresh astra blade to see what the results are already. Also got a delivery of some sample blades a while back. So I cant wait to try those either, after I have shaved a lot more with the astra blades of course.

Glad it's starting to come together for ya

 

[DEPenguin]

I'll confess up front that I haven't read all the replies yet, but while I had my two cents worth fresh in mind I wanted to jot it down, so I apologize in advance if someone already covered this in detail.

Technique--yes, absolutely. Get it down until it's practically muscle memory. But . . .

Prep: You mentioned you used electric clippers to trim down a bit prior to shaving; you also mentioned your beard is fairly coarse and perhaps as a result the Derby's tugged and the Astras didn't leave you with warm fuzzies. My hunch is your beard isn't quite prepped enough to properly hew to the blades edge. Good prep is perhaps more crucial than some realize. On average facial hair needs to be hydrated a full three minutes to be considered ready--as with everything else this may vary from person to person. But make sure your beard is well hydrated, perhaps consider a pre-shave oil? I've never used one but my understanding is they can help considerably with tougher growth.

Derby Extras worked surprisingly well for me . . . much better than I ever expected given the many poor reviews, but my facial hair is probably average--certainly not tough, but not fine either. Astras are my baseline against which I compare other blades--yeah, I know that's rife with its own issues, but anyway, I like Astras.

Lots of sage advice I've read above: try and resist the temptation to sample different hardware for at least a month; not an easy task, I grant you. Also consider mapping your beard grain. You may very well find out your results improve substantially if you do.