Classic Scents for Soaps

[TFAshaver]

So, I have been wet shaving for a few years now, and I have quite the collection of soaps and creams starting. What I struggle with is the distinction of the different scents. For me like wine there are standards that are defined, but what would be defining/base scents and a good example of them for shave soaps?

For Example:
Sandalwood - Edwin Jagger Sandalwood, or AOS Sandalwood, TOBS Sandalwood
Barbershop - ?
Fougere - ?
Chypre - ?
Oriental - ?
Cologne - ?

These are just a few that come to my mind that come up often as scent descriptors. Just looking to see where I would start if I want to cultivate my palate for the different scents that make up great shave soaps. Feel free to add scents and examples of them. Thanks!

 

[guitarslinger]

Barbershop is an extremely loose label. IMO, barbershop fragrances should be fougeres (lavender, oak moss, Tonka/coumarin) like clubman and brut, but then you get citrus, aquatic, menthol, and eucalyptus scents thrown in with the barbershop category just because they happen to be used in barbershops somewhere in the world. Ex. I don’t think proraso green and floid blue should be considered “barbershop “, but they are.

I love learning about scent categories. It’s one thing in this hobby about which I can talk with my wife.

“Cologne” always seems to smell like orange flower water to me, btw.

Oh, and i have a very hard time finding similarities amongst items labeled “chypre”. They all seem to be fruit forward, but range from bitter amaro to ultra sweet peach schnapps.

You should throw gourmand and aldehyde categories in there too.

 

[GaryTha]

You forgot urinal puck and grandma's purse.

 

[shave/brush]

One of my favorites is Bay Rum and I believe Mystic Water soaps make the best Bay Rum you can buy.

 

[GaryTha]

Seriously, back in the early '70s, scents were associated with deodorants. Maybe we had great music, but we also suffered through scents like Right Guard.

 

[BigJ]

Then there is the ‘soap’ scent: MWF and La Toja fit in that category IMO!

 

[FireDragon76]

Barbershop is an extremely loose label. IMO, barbershop fragrances should be fougeres (lavender, oak moss, Tonka/coumarin) like clubman and brut, but then you get citrus, aquatic, menthol, and eucalyptus scents thrown in with the barbershop category just because they happen to be used in barbershops somewhere in the world. Ex. I don’t think proraso green and floid blue should be considered “barbershop “, but they are.

I love learning about scent categories. It’s one thing in this hobby about which I can talk with my wife.

“Cologne” always seems to smell like orange flower water to me, btw.

Oh, and i have a very hard time finding similarities amongst items labeled “chypre”. They all seem to be fruit forward, but range from bitter amaro to ultra sweet peach schnapps.

You should throw gourmand and aldehyde categories in there too.

I tried an artisan aftershave and cream called "Shave and a Haircut" (which is also a fragrance oil you can buy for DIY projects) and it smells more like Lucky Tiger mixed with Barbasol. It's very citrusy with a generic cologne base. I do remember Lucky Tiger from the military hair salons that I went to as a kid, but for other people their idea of "barbershop" is going to be very different.

Classic chypres are characterized by citrus-resinous incense-oakmoss (and hence the "leathery" associations). Patchouli and musk are also very common. The fruity thing must be a modern trend. Aqua Velva Ice Blue/Musk, Irish Spring, Gillette Cool Wave, are examples of chypre fragrances.

 

[Timeclo]

Instead of scents, I tend to think of classic brands. For example, Arko, Tabac, Brut, Old Spice, etcs. I've had my share of exploring the classic brands but now I prefer simple and light scents. Also, modern colognes like Creed Aventus and its dupes are pretty amazing.

 

[oscar11]

A couple of classic scents for English soaps, lavender and rose.

 

[ksblazer]

How about the Italian almond/marzipan scent.

 

[sarimento1]

So, I have been wet shaving for a few years now, and I have quite the collection of soaps and creams starting. What I struggle with is the distinction of the different scents. For me like wine there are standards that are defined, but what would be defining/base scents and a good example of them for shave soaps?

For Example:
Sandalwood - Edwin Jagger Sandalwood, or AOS Sandalwood, TOBS Sandalwood
Barbershop - ?
Fougere - ?
Chypre - ?
Oriental - ?
Cologne - ?

These are just a few that come to my mind that come up often as scent descriptors. Just looking to see where I would start if I want to cultivate my palate for the different scents that make up great shave soaps. Feel free to add scents and examples of them. Thanks!

Welcome to B&B, Sir TFA!!

Here's the well-regarded Floris men's scent family chart. It does not include "oud" or "tobacco", but most other recognized scent families.

 

[Yukonmark]

Seriously, back in the early '70s, scents were associated with deodorants. Maybe we had great music, but we also suffered through scents like Right Guard.

The original Old Spice rocked back in the 70s. The new Old Spice (no pun intended) sucks

 

[SailFast]

Tobacco?

 

[WetShavingRules]

You forgot urinal puck and grandma's purse.

Hahahahahaha! Afta Blue might be both at once!

 

[RayClem]

In the fragrance world, scents are often categorized according to a fragrance wheel. It was developed by a man named Michael Edwards. It divides scents overall into general categories such as: floral, oriental, woody, and fresh. Each of these categories can be further subdivided into a large number of categories.

Fougere, which comes from the French term for Fern is a combination of scents from all four of the larger scent categories, so they are found at the center of the wheel. Fougeres are generally considered to be appropriate for men. Although all Fougeres are based on lavender, coumarin, and oak moss, some also include spicy notes from the Oriental group and others include notes from the Woody group.

Chypre comes form the French word for Cypress. These scents are based on citrus (often bergamot), labdimum, oakmoss and patchouli. If floral notes are added to the basic formula, the scent may be more suitable for women. If woody, spicy notes are added, it may be more suitable for men. Some scents are unisex.

Barbershop scents are not well defined. They can cover a wide variety of scents overall. For example, Pinaud Clubman, the quintessential barbershop scent, is actually a Fougere.

 

[TFAshaver]

Seems like this is going to be harder to pin down than I thought initially.

 

[guitarslinger]

In the fragrance world, scents are often categorized according to a fragrance wheel. It was developed by a man named Michael Edwards. It divides scents overall into general categories such as: floral, oriental, woody, and fresh. Each of these categories can be further subdivided into a large number of categories.

Fougere, which comes from the French term for Fern is a combination of scents from all four of the larger scent categories, so they are found at the center of the wheel. Fougeres are generally considered to be appropriate for men. Although all Fougeres are based on lavender, coumarin, and oak moss, some also include spicy notes from the Oriental group and others include notes from the Woody group.

Chypre comes form the French word for Cypress. These scents are based on citrus (often bergamot), labdimum, oakmoss and patchouli. If floral notes are added to the basic formula, the scent may be more suitable for women. If woody, spicy notes are added, it may be more suitable for men. Some scents are unisex.

Barbershop scents are not well defined. They can cover a wide variety of scents overall. For example, Pinaud Clubman, the quintessential barbershop scent, is actually a Fougere.

Excellent post. Good breakdown

 

[Frank Shaves]

Don’t forget lime. Mike’s Lime is one of the greatest smelling soaps for me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk