Anyone have any thoughts on "shining" a pair of oxblood Church bookbinder/corrected leather finished shoes? I have had these for about 30 years. They were expensive back in the day and have held up nicely except the finish/color is uneven. There is some light cracking where the shoe bends on top of my foot, but I do not care about that, it essentially adds character and I understand there is nothing to be done anyway, at least according to Kirby Allison of the Hangar Project.
As I understand it, the bookbinder finish involved artificially smoothing leather and applying an acrylic coating. I suppose the idea was that they would be inherently very shiny with only a wipe of a damp cloth. But one also cannot much apply wax. cream, or even leather treatment to it and have any of it penetrate. I have been fairly success in putting a mirror glaze on the toes with Saphir Mirror Gloss wax. But is there anything else that can be done? A solvent perhaps? Or even taking a light sandpaper to the surface? If I could get the leather to absorb any kind of colored wax or cream I think the color would even out into a nice patina, with darker and lighter areas, but not places that look like they have lost all color.
I can see inexpensive shoes using corrected leather as a cost savings. But why Church would use it, I do not understand. I think Church promoted it as something better and special. I had a mentor you paid big bucks for shoes and clothes, and who went to NYC to buy Church shoes before they became available in the Washington, DC area. (I think they were sold in the States as McAffees, then. At least that was his story and he generally knew clothes and shoes.) He seemed to go out of his way to get a bookbinder finish rather than calf. He kept his shoes shined like a mirror all over. I remember the first time I met him being impressed with that.
I will figure out how to send photos, if folks think that will help!
As I understand it, the bookbinder finish involved artificially smoothing leather and applying an acrylic coating. I suppose the idea was that they would be inherently very shiny with only a wipe of a damp cloth. But one also cannot much apply wax. cream, or even leather treatment to it and have any of it penetrate. I have been fairly success in putting a mirror glaze on the toes with Saphir Mirror Gloss wax. But is there anything else that can be done? A solvent perhaps? Or even taking a light sandpaper to the surface? If I could get the leather to absorb any kind of colored wax or cream I think the color would even out into a nice patina, with darker and lighter areas, but not places that look like they have lost all color.
I can see inexpensive shoes using corrected leather as a cost savings. But why Church would use it, I do not understand. I think Church promoted it as something better and special. I had a mentor you paid big bucks for shoes and clothes, and who went to NYC to buy Church shoes before they became available in the Washington, DC area. (I think they were sold in the States as McAffees, then. At least that was his story and he generally knew clothes and shoes.) He seemed to go out of his way to get a bookbinder finish rather than calf. He kept his shoes shined like a mirror all over. I remember the first time I met him being impressed with that.
I will figure out how to send photos, if folks think that will help!
