Chromium Oxide on Balsa?
- Thread starter Oscroft
- Start date
You will need a binder, here is a pretty good thread...
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/182002-Pasting-a-balsawood-strop-with-CrOx
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/182002-Pasting-a-balsawood-strop-with-CrOx
- Thread starter
- #3
CrOx on balsa works great. Cheapest paddle strop, and one of the best.
- Thread starter
- #5
Where can you buy Chromium Oxide across the counter? I am a little afraid to get it on line.
Why are you afraid to get it online? Contact Larry at Whippeddog.com, I am pretty sure he sells small batches.
Hand American has a good .5 um crox paste in a squeeze bottle - CKTG used to sell it, prob still do.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
You can simply rub a little powder onto your balsa. Oil, etc not needed. It doesn't sharpen. The CrOx does.
Using a binder seems to encourage the use of way too much CrOx, too. It gives you a slurry effect. This is great for "softening" a harsh edge, but if you want to use the balsa to maintain an edge by stropping post-shave, you want barely a stain of CrOx for best results. It should be embedded into the balsa, not forming a coating or layer on top. Same with diamond paste. You want it to embed into the balsa, not form a coating that you can feel. A heavy coat will do you some good, yeah, but the light application makes for a keener edge. My thinking is if you think you got enough, you probably got way too much. If you think you don't have half enough, you probably got it about right.
Don't forget to flatten your balsa. You may have to do it again periodically. Age and moisture can cause the wood to warp.
Using a binder seems to encourage the use of way too much CrOx, too. It gives you a slurry effect. This is great for "softening" a harsh edge, but if you want to use the balsa to maintain an edge by stropping post-shave, you want barely a stain of CrOx for best results. It should be embedded into the balsa, not forming a coating or layer on top. Same with diamond paste. You want it to embed into the balsa, not form a coating that you can feel. A heavy coat will do you some good, yeah, but the light application makes for a keener edge. My thinking is if you think you got enough, you probably got way too much. If you think you don't have half enough, you probably got it about right.
Don't forget to flatten your balsa. You may have to do it again periodically. Age and moisture can cause the wood to warp.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Oh, and if you have the crayon or block type, that's okay. It works just fine. You CAN add oil, it just isn't needed. Either way, apply sparingly for the best sharpening effect, and heavy if you want to gentle up a harsh edge.
Did I mention YMMV?
Did I mention YMMV?
What I like to do is apply a very even coating, and probably a lot more than is needed, but neat and evenly distributed. Then I get paper towels and give the surface a good rub, changing the paper towel a few times. This takes off the excess CrOx and oil, and works what is left into the grain of the wood. That way you do not get the slurry dulling effect Slash mentions above, the surface looks nice, and does its job evenly over the whole blade.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
That sounds like a plan, Legion.
Mix with a little oil.
- Thread starter
- #15
That sounds great, thanks - I have one done with oil, and I think I'll do another with just a light dusting of dry powder rubbed into the balsa.
And yep, I flattened the balsa first.
I just did exactly that, thanks!
I had looked around on line and found MANY places that sell it, but none of them identified the grit and I didn't want to buy online without knowing I was getting the appropriate grit for razor honing. Thanks to the references in this thread, problem is solved.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Nearly all CrOx, whether sold as an abrasive or as a pigment, will be about .5u to .3u grit size. The grit size is not always gonna be rock steady consistent but it will average out about there. If you want better consistency then spring for diamond or CBN. If you want a variety of grits, too. I have never seen CrOx that was represented as being other than .5u or .3u grit. I think that is like the natural crystal or particle size for it.
Something I just tried and it worked great. Used a new paint brush, dipped it in the dry powder and applied to the balsa. Very easy to get a nice even coat without adding too much. The nice thing is that you can use it right away.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
That sounds like it would work pretty good! Don't forget to rub it in.
I kind of blotted it on first to work it in and then brushed back and forth to even it out. Looks really nice and works great.
