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Chosera VS Shapton Glass

I currently have the following stones:

Chosera 1k
Naniwa SS 3/5/8/12k
Suehiro Gokumyo 20k

I am not in love with the feedback I receive from the Naniwa SS stones. Any advice on swapping over to either Chosera 3/5/8 (snow white)/10 or Shapton Glass 3/6/8/10/16k.

Thanks for your input!

Rich
 
I have the Shapton pro series and a single Shapton glass 4K and the difference in feel between 4K glass and 5k pro is amazing. The 4K Shapton glass feels like I’m rubbing the razor on rubber...the 5k Shapton pro almost feels like stone...
 
Many of the Shaption Pro def feel more like Chosera stones where that steel on rock feel is concerned. The 1k is softer and grainy sometimes. The 2k just feels softer, less stone like. The Shapton Glass Stones definitely do have a 'softer' overall feel, esp the HC series. Dunno that I'd call it rubbery myself, but I do get the reference.
 
I just sharpened a razor and went 1.5 shapton pro, to 4k glass, and then 5k pro...soft is a good word...doesn't have much of a grinding feel or scraping feel. soft and smooth. the 5k+ have it but not to the extent that the 4k glass does. The 4k glass DID get rid of the 1.5k shapton pro scratch marks incredibly quickly and polished the edge nicely
 
The stone that matters most in my experience are the bevel setter and the finisher.
If you are happy with the Gokumyo 20k, I would not bother getting a different progression than the one you already have.
Anyway, I like the Naniwa better than the Shapton (my comparison is the Shapton 12K which is similar in particle size to the Naniwa 10K)
 
I do understand what your saying. The most important stones are bevel setter and finisher, both I'm very happy with. That said, I received and used the Snow White 8K and really like how the stone works and feels much better than the Naniwa SS. For me, it was a very nice upgrade and I'm quite happy with the purchase. We shall see in to the future if I buy a replacement 3K or 5K. No urgency.
 
I had not heard of the Snow White 8K. Reading reviews now, it does seem like an interesting stone. It reminds me of some reviews that claimed the Naniwa 10K was actually superior as a finisher to the Naniwa 12K. I do not remember the rational, but that convinced me not to get the 12K. Especially since I already have a Shapton 15K. But from what I know the Gokumyo 20k is far superior, comparable to the Shapton 30k, but with better user satisfaction.
 

David

B&B’s Champion Corn Shucker
The Snow White is a great stone but they can craze if you look at them wrong.
 
As I understand it, the crazing does not affect the stone's performance. That said, I hope to not have to test this theory...
 
if a stone crazes, is that it, or can it be repaired?
As I understand it, the crazing does not affect the stone's performance. That said, I hope to not have to test this theory...
I have a Chosera 5k that crazed like crazy. IME it mandates a quick rub with a cleaning stone before each use to make sure that none of the crazed edges are high. Other than that it seems to have no effect on the usability of the stone. As usual YMMV.
 
I have a Chosera 5k that crazed like crazy. IME it mandates a quick rub with a cleaning stone before each use to make sure that none of the crazed edges are high. Other than that it seems to have no effect on the usability of the stone. As usual YMMV.

What, in your opinion, caused the stone to craze? Did you soak it? I have the Chosera 1K which has had no issues. The usability and feel of it caused me to want to phase out the Naniwa SS stones.
 
What, in your opinion, caused the stone to craze? Did you soak it? I have the Chosera 1K which has had no issues. The usability and feel of it caused me to want to phase out the Naniwa SS stones.
I have a Chosera 1k and a Chosera 3k that had a bit of crazing when I got them used. My theory was that the crazing was caused by too rapid of drying. Since the stone seems to expand with water absorption, the drying, shrinking, surface would contract over an expanded wet substrate and crack like drying mud, which is exactly what the crazing looks like.

With my slow drying procedure (I live in dry Colorado) the 1k did not craze any more and the crazing that did exist lapped out over time to where there is none at this point. The 3k did not get any worse and the existing crazing actually healed itself where the crazing can still be seen, but it filled in and welded with the binder of the stone. Nothing can be felt at these binder filled craze lines.

So I thought that I had this crazing thing figured out. I purchased the Chosera 5k used, but it had only been used a few times and there was zero crazing when I received it. I was careful to just use it as spray and go to get as little water penetration as possible and wiped the surface dry and covered it with a loose paper towel to slow the drying. The stone crazed. So much for my procedure that seemed to work so well with the 1k and 3k. I'm presently experimenting with using my well water on this stone when I hone as we have very hard alkaline well water. It actually seems to be healing the crazing. I'll let you know in a couple of years. Anyway as I said above the crazing does not effect my honing or my enjoyment of using this stone.
 
Thank you bluesman 7! So I understand, you wrap the stone in paper towel when drying? Makes sense. I run the stone under water to start then splash under a faucet or wet fingers as I go. Never soak or sit in water for any period of time.

I have been wiping dry and setting on the stone's side to let them dry. Oklahoma is definitely not as dry as Colorado so don't know if wrapping would be necessary, but it couldn't hurt.
 
Now I just wipe the top of the stone dry when I am done then let it dry over a day or so before putting the lid on the box. Seems to work as well as the laying of the paper towel over the surface.
 
I have a Chosera 1k and a Chosera 3k that had a bit of crazing when I got them used. My theory was that the crazing was caused by too rapid of drying. Since the stone seems to expand with water absorption, the drying, shrinking, surface would contract over an expanded wet substrate and crack like drying mud, which is exactly what the crazing looks like.

With my slow drying procedure (I live in dry Colorado) the 1k did not craze any more and the crazing that did exist lapped out over time to where there is none at this point. The 3k did not get any worse and the existing crazing actually healed itself where the crazing can still be seen, but it filled in and welded with the binder of the stone. Nothing can be felt at these binder filled craze lines.

So I thought that I had this crazing thing figured out. I purchased the Chosera 5k used, but it had only been used a few times and there was zero crazing when I received it. I was careful to just use it as spray and go to get as little water penetration as possible and wiped the surface dry and covered it with a loose paper towel to slow the drying. The stone crazed. So much for my procedure that seemed to work so well with the 1k and 3k. I'm presently experimenting with using my well water on this stone when I hone as we have very hard alkaline well water. It actually seems to be healing the crazing. I'll let you know in a couple of years. Anyway as I said above the crazing does not effect my honing or my enjoyment of using this stone.
Fascinating. Do you think, then, that hard water is better with these stones?
 
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