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Chieftain Jr. Upgrade Suggestions

First time poster; long time lurker.

For 10 years I had been shaving with a double blade cartridge razor from Dollar Shave Club and liked it due to it's mild effects on my somewhat acne prone skin. That razor combined with Aveeno therapeutic shave gel has given me the best results, though far from perfect. I have always and still shave every other morning after a shower.

Fast forward to late October 2021 and a stop into an AOS store. The staff there walked me through how to properly shave and I walked out with a Pure Badger brush, brush stand, AOS Sandalwood pre-shave oil and shave cream... the salesman did their job and I'm currently falling into the rabbit hole. At that time I didn't purchase a DE razor due to my lack of knowledge and fear of what it might do to my "sensitive skin". I began shaving with my new AOS supplies using the DSC double blade cartridge (1 pass WTG). My acne flared up within 1 week and I switched back to my Aveeno, but I didn't want to give up. I began researching DE razors and watching "how to wet shave" videos on YouTube while my skin healed. I decided to go with a Chieftain Jr. razor and asked my wife for it for Christmas along with a sample pack of blades. I began using that razor with my AOS supplies and ran through blades somewhat hastily (2 shaves each) in search of the perfect blade for me. I felt the Chieftain Jr was too harsh on my skin (I don't think it was, I think my technique was terrible) so I put it down and purchased The Winning Razor and began shaving with that, again using my AOS software and trying different blades (always 1 pass WTG). I like the feel of the Winning Razor in my hand, but it really caused my skin to breakout on my lower cheeks. I think the irritation was a combination of poor technique and the excess drag due to the head rubbing or suctioning to my face. Combine that with the ingredients of the AOS oil and cream and I was a frustrated. In mid-January I continued to use the Winning Razor, but I switched to Proraso White preshave and shave cream and began using alum (for feedback) and witch hazel post shave. I found I was more successful, but still had the irritation on my lower cheeks although it was much milder.

Within the last three weeks I've made 1 change per week that have combined to change my experience and boost my confidence and enjoyment:

Week 1 - through my "tour of blades" I settled on the Voskhod in my Winning Razor. What a difference this blade made for me. No weepers, no nicks and super smooth with even less irritation than I had been having, but the razor still felt too mild and I didn't want to test my skin with more than 1 pass.
Week 2 - I spent the better part of 2 evenings scouring B&B in search of the perfect shave technique and decided I was going to shave with zero (more like very minimal) pressure and switch back to the more aggressive Chieftain Jr with the Voskhod blades. I really have to focus and tune into my skin during my shave, but it has made an unbelievable difference! I still use 1 pass WTG, but, at this point I have minimal irritation and get a shave that's good enough for work.
Week 3 - I decided to make the switch to soap after researching that soaps could really help with sensitive skin as compared to creams. I received my order of PAA Unscented shave soap (I suspected irritation from perfumes). What a great, slick soap that lathers well. I've had 3 shaves with it and they're the best I've had yet! I'm still doing one pass WTG, but the results are good enough for me (for now) and the irritation is almost nonexistant.

In summary here is where I am after only 4 months in this new (to me) wet shaving world:

-Using the Chieftain Jr with a Voskhod blade - it is more aggressive than the Winning razor, but still fairly mild and gives a "passable shave" with just 1 pass. Minimal to no pressure is the key!
-Using unscented shave soap from PAA with Proraso White preshave - I feel that I'm sensitive to fragrances and will stick with this unscented, slick soap. I do like fragrances and also purchased some soaps from PAA so I get my "scent fix" each day.
-Using the alum block for feedback and rinse it off within 30 seconds.
-Using Dickenson's witch hazel post alum block.
-Using Neutrogena Healty Skin facial moisturizer with SPF 15.

I realize that was a lot to take in and appreciate you taking your time to read it. Here's where I need the B&B community to do it's thing and help me with suggestions ... I would like to get a new razor. The Chieftain functions and does its job, but I don't feel the quality is quite where I'd like it and frankly, I want a new toy. I'm willing to spend around $50-$60 on a new razor and have looked at the Merkur 34c HD (sounds like a great razor) as well as Rockwell 6C (or 2C??) and RazoRock razors, but I'm confused with their vast assortment really. I'd like a 2 or 3 piece and again, thank you for your help on this journey!
 
I've only been at this 6 months myself and my only razor is a Henson Al-13, which I understand is very similar to the Winning razor, so I can't offer any suggestions from my own experience. But welcome to the forum, you are about to get many recommendations from the helpful B&B community!
 
I've only been at this 6 months myself and my only razor is a Henson Al-13, which I understand is very similar to the Winning razor, so I can't offer any suggestions from my own experience. But welcome to the forum, you are about to get many recommendations from the helpful B&B community!
Thank you sir! I've been browsing for quite a while and love the community. I was trying to decide between the Winning and Henson and opted for the Winning based on the stainless steel. I've heard nothing but great things about the Henson though and maybe I purchased the wrong razor... who knows!?
 
I, too, am a Henson fan. I have and passed on a Winning. The face feel is much more pronounced on the Winning over the Henson, but I almost hesitate to recommend it as you say it caused problems for you. Although it sounds like it may have been a fragrance reaction.

The Merkur 34C was my first razor, and it lives up to its reputation as a reliable workhorse. I found the effective shaving angle to be narrow and the razor to be too mild overall for my needs, and found much greater efficiency in the Henson Al13 mild. Adding a shim to the 34C increases the blade gap and I can use it much more efficiently with the shim. The Merkur Progress is another great choice if you would like an adjustable.
 
I, too, am a Henson fan. I have and passed on a Winning. The face feel is much more pronounced on the Winning over the Henson, but I almost hesitate to recommend it as you say it caused problems for you. Although it sounds like it may have been a fragrance reaction.

The Merkur 34C was my first razor, and it lives up to its reputation as a reliable workhorse. I found the effective shaving angle to be narrow and the razor to be too mild overall for my needs, and found much greater efficiency in the Henson Al13 mild. Adding a shim to the 34C increases the blade gap and I can use it much more efficiently with the shim. The Merkur Progress is another great choice if you would like an adjustable.
I appreciate the input. I'm going to hang on to the Winning for now as I feel the irritation was likely the fragrance as well as my technique. I'll probably give the Winning another shot at some point once I get my technique dialed in, but do want to add another piece of hardware to my very small collection.
 
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Welcome to B&B.
... I would like to get a new razor. The Chieftain functions and does its job, but I don't feel the quality is quite where I'd like it and frankly, I want a new toy. I'm willing to spend around $50-$60 on a new razor and have looked at the Merkur 34c HD (sounds like a great razor)
The Merkur 34C is a great razor and that would be my suggestion, you will like it but I would spend a few more weeks on improving your technique before trying another razor. You should work up to a 3 pass shave with no irritation before going down the route of a new razor. I would think trying a few more blades would also help; something like the Astra SP, Gillette Silver Blue or Gillette 7 O'Clock SharpEdge.
 
Welcome to B&B.

The Merkur 34C is a great razor and that would be my suggestion, you will like it but I would spend a few more weeks on improving your technique before trying another razor. You should work up to a 3 pass shave with no irritation before going down the route of a new razor. I would think trying a few more blades would also help; something like the Astra SP, Gillette Silver Blue or Gillette 7 O'Clock SharpEdge.
I have some Astra SP that I’m going to try and will look to pick up the Gillettes that you’ve mentioned. Definitely agree that I need to keep working on the technique and get the number of passes up before getting carried away! Thanks for the advice!
 
When I first started reading your post the winning razor is what popped into my head. It's the closest thing to a daily driver I have. Before pushing it completely aside try it again with the soap and make it a thin lather.

A lot of people will probably recommend one of the gamechangers from RR. I would also suggest looking at the SLOC. It's on the mild side, but the open comb design might help with your irritation. You can get just the head from AliExpress as the Yaqi Mellon for just a few bucks.

Edited to add....I prefer the Winning Razor over the Henson personally.
 
If you want a new razor, I suggest the Timeless Titanium razor in safety bar. Get the .68 for a mild shave & the .95 for a wonderfully smooth, efficient shave. If you want to try vintage, you need to start with a Tech. But never turn down a Goodwill #160, it’s a superb shaving razor.
 
When I first started reading your post the winning razor is what popped into my head. It's the closest thing to a daily driver I have. Before pushing it completely aside try it again with the soap and make it a thin lather.

A lot of people will probably recommend one of the gamechangers from RR. I would also suggest looking at the SLOC. It's on the mild side, but the open comb design might help with your irritation. You can get just the head from AliExpress as the Yaqi Mellon for just a few bucks.

Edited to add....I prefer the Winning Razor over the Henson personally.
Thanks for the reply and suggestions. I just told my wife this morning that I'm going to hang on to the winning razor and give it another shot with the PAA soap once I get my technique dialed in with the VB Chieftain Jr. I've made a lot of changes recently that have helped me out, but I don't want to get into the habit of making changes too quickly. A Yaqi DOC head is coming soon as I just had it thrown into a BST when I purchased a Rockwell 6C. Again, I'm throwing more things into the mix here, but I just have to remind myself to not get carried away.. it's a marathon, not a sprint!
 
If you want a new razor, I suggest the Timeless Titanium razor in safety bar. Get the .68 for a mild shave & the .95 for a wonderfully smooth, efficient shave. If you want to try vintage, you need to start with a Tech. But never turn down a Goodwill #160, it’s a superb shaving razor.
Just went to the Timeless website and built a titanium razor, to see what it would cost. I didn't purchase it, but that is one great looking razor!
 
Just went to the Timeless website and built a titanium razor, to see what it would cost. I didn't purchase it, but that is one great looking razor!
Yes, it is a good looking razor, but it’s the smoothest razor I’ve used, as well as one of the most efficient. But getting started I suggest you try a variety of inexpensive vintage Gillettes. Wonderful razors, wonderful shavers, & you can learn good technique while enjoying some history.
 
Yes, it is a good looking razor, but it’s the smoothest razor I’ve used, as well as one of the most efficient. But getting started I suggest you try a variety of inexpensive vintage Gillettes. Wonderful razors, wonderful shavers, & you can learn good technique while enjoying some history.
Sounds like I need to jump on the bay and see what I can find! The thought of shaving with a razor that was used during the WWII era just sounds fantastic. I'm a bit of a history buff and WWII is very interesting to me. Does anyone know what good performing Gillettes were popular during the 1940's?
 
Try a prewar tech. You can identify a prewar tech by the triangle lather holes. The post war techs has oval lather holes. Mr. razor is a good source of learning about vintage Gillette razors. I use Alum block very sparingly. Aluminum is an irritant for me. I can't use deodorant with aluminum in it.
 
I moved from my DE89 of 10 years to an old slim adjustable for a few weeks that was a mix of success and frustration. I purchased a ‘74 super 109 black beauty adjustable from a BB member and wow, that is it for me. Not a 40’s but you can find several different styled vintage razors for not much money and dial in what hopefully will be a successful higher dollar purchase. The young man in me would buy more than a few shiny pretty razors but the older man that I am is saying learn how to shave better first. I figure I’ll wait at least for a few more shaves lol. Best of luck!
 
I’d suggest that you stick with the razor you have, and quit with the blade roulette. Pick a blade the Astra SP, is a decent blade to go with to work on improving your technique. Stick with it for a month or two. Resist the temptation to change to different blade. Actually the time frame is for when to move on to other blades is when you can put together a dozen or so consecutive irritation free shaves.
 
I moved from my DE89 of 10 years to an old slim adjustable for a few weeks that was a mix of success and frustration. I purchased a ‘74 super 109 black beauty adjustable from a BB member and wow, that is it for me. Not a 40’s but you can find several different styled vintage razors for not much money and dial in what hopefully will be a successful higher dollar purchase. The young man in me would buy more than a few shiny pretty razors but the older man that I am is saying learn how to shave better first. I figure I’ll wait at least for a few more shaves lol. Best of luck!
Great suggestion. Pretty toys are hard to stay away from!
 
Try a prewar tech. You can identify a prewar tech by the triangle lather holes. The post war techs has oval lather holes. Mr. razor is a good source of learning about vintage Gillette razors. I use Alum block very sparingly. Aluminum is an irritant for me. I can't use deodorant with aluminum in it.
I learn something new every 10 minutes on here! Thanks for the info.
 
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