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Cheapest 15k-20k stone

12k synth not doing it? Why not follow with a Tony Miller bench strop or Sharpening Supplies paddle strop lined with Solingen black paste? They're lot cheaper than an XXk synth hone and, used properly, can last a lifetime. Another option would be to use a natural stone (coticule, Thuri, Welsh slate, trans or black hard Arkansas) to see if that helps the edge.
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
I have the 10k, 12k, Naniwa Super Stones and the Gok 20k. The difference in the edges to me is only noticeable on certain parts of my face and are very small. The differences that someone feels or perceives probably has as much to do with beard type as the stone once you get to 10k and above. So if money is an issue get a 12k Naniwa.

If you can afford it and are committed, get the Gok 20k, but the reason is not 3x better edges. It’s hard, thick, doesn’t absorb water (I tested it, less than 0.5g after soaking it) and likely doesn’t warp. It’s hard and thick enough to last a lifetime. And you won’t have to lap it nearly as often which is a joy if you hone a lot.

Suehiro make a 15k in the same series, but if it is not the final finisher it seems foolish since it's also spendy. Get the 20k instead.
 
I think the Gok. is much softer on the face then the Naniwa. The Naniwa is a fine stone but many find it a little harsh - something the Gok does not do.
All other benefits, as Steve has said, are just a bonus.
I rarely use the Gok. but it is a great stone.
 
The particle size distribution on the 16k is loose enough that some of the particles are larger than what is in the 10k.
Hi Ricardo, the HR Glass stones that Shapton recommends for razors are the 3k, 10k, and 30k.

From communication with Mark Richmond at CKTG who spoke with Ishida San at Shapton, maybe the stones hat are not recommended have a broader grit distribution, IOW, they have some coarser grit in them that would not affect say a knife or scissors, but may affect a razor. I don’t have this in writing of course. Here’s a chart from Jende zindustries.

View attachment 1079182

Thank you, gentlemen.

The chart from Jende Industries is interesting and useful.
 
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I dont have anything against film. I just would rather spend some money for a stone that will last for my lifetime than have something I have to keep changing and hope they dont stop making it.

I am with you, Suhrim21.

To me, after I realised the process of using film, putting and sticking films on boards (plastics, glass..etc), it is like making a hone stone by human effort, And you need to re-do it whenever a film is finished. It is not cheap, in terms of human effort.

The low-cost for entrance into honing maybe good to new comers, however. I admit. But not really attractive in the long run. YMMV.
 
I am with you, Suhrim21.

To me, after I realised the process of using film, putting and sticking films on boards (plastics, glass..etc), it is like making a hone stone by human effort, And you need to re-do it whenever a film is finished. It is not cheap, in terms of human effort.

The low-cost for entrance into honing maybe good to new comers, however. I admit. But not really attractive in the long run. YMMV.

We’re you using adhesive baked film?
 
What is the cheapest option for a stone that would be 15k-20k not using film.

My favorite finishing stone is:

This is what I use to lap it very quickly and easily:


The Chosera 400 makes a great lapping stone
because the porosity keeps it from sticking when wet.
I also think that it's harder than the other Choseras in the
same line because the brown rubbing stones that come with the
1k, 2k, 3k, and 5k all pick up the color of the stone;
but with the 400, it is the brown rubbing stone which wipes off
instead.
 
My favorite finishing stone is:

This is what I use to lap it very quickly and easily:


The Chosera 400 makes a great lapping stone
because the porosity keeps it from sticking when wet.
I also think that it's harder than the other Choseras in the
same line because the brown rubbing stones that come with the
1k, 2k, 3k, and 5k all pick up the color of the stone;
but with the 400, it is the brown rubbing stone which wipes off
instead.


What is the difference between the standard and premium
 
The particle size distribution on the 16k is loose enough that some of the particles are larger than what is in the 10k.

I have a Shapton 16K and I compare it to a Naniwa 10-12K in performance. It is a good setup stone before my Suehiro G20K, but only fair on its own.
 
He has asked about a stone. Not stone and pastes.
Many people do not like or want to use pastes, myself included. A good stone and you don't need anything else.


Correct. I will not use pastes sprays or powders on any of my strops. I would like a stone, but I may also look into balsa strops.

Are the welsh stones any good as finishing stones?
 
Correct. I will not use pastes sprays or powders on any of my strops. I would like a stone, but I may also look into balsa strops.

Are the welsh stones any good as finishing stones?

They are natural so... maybe?
I have a purple Welsh slate that is a great finishing stone. It finishes as well as my Eschers or any other fine finishing stone. It is a very soft feeling edge on the skin and plenty keen.
I honestly will never sell it.
That doesn't mean the one you get will give you the same results of course.
"Alum of Potash" likes his as well I believe. I don't want to put words in his mouth but he has spoken of them often with high regards.
The price is worth taking a chance IMO. Its the best deal in finishing hones as well AFAIC.
 
Thank you for your insight into the welsh stones. I have been watching some and I may just have to try one.
 
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