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Charnley Forest show off your Charnwood

The Charn would be useless on my Axes! The Washita is more than sufficient in terms of both sharpness and speed and if it somehow got a chip (never happened in 6 years) a file is the way to go (IMO) for a quick fix like that. I’ve used the ceramic Axe pucks from Grans and Ice Bear, the Washita is my preference.
Swedish Axe thread would be amazing!
man, wouldn't it? ive recently been becoming more of an appreciator of axes. i ended up talking to my brother in law, who is obsessed with hults- and gransfors- bruks but had never found one. I accidentally found a gransfors on craigslist (after much time pouring over the internet) and picked it up for him and got it 90% sharpened...with approximately 3 hours into it. there were a couple large sized chips i took out with a washita and file...if the washita is "fast" it makes me understand why a charnwood would be not a great option!
 
Here is my boxed Charnley. It's as plain as oatmeal compared to some of the red-marbled beauties I've seen on here, but it is still a Finisher's Finisher. About 10" X 2.5" in size, a little over 1" thick I'd guess, I've never tried to pry it out of the box.

Mine was used for years with oil, and I should probably continue the practice for the very best results, but I just don't like honing with oil. So I use water with a tiny bit of dish soap to get similar results. For final polishing a fine edge, the suction and draw of this stone is intense.

In my experience, I only use the Charnley to take an already good edge to the next level. For me it has been a waste of time to use on anything that hasn't already been given a fine edge on something like an Escher, Shapton 16K, or JNat. It always takes a good edge to another level when I've done my part, imparting a fantastic smooth keenness that is unique. It can improve any edge coming off any finishing stone I have, including my best JNat. A niche natural stone, but a keeper for sure.

Charnley-03.jpg
 
Here is my boxed Charnley. It's as plain as oatmeal compared to some of the red-marbled beauties I've seen on here, but it is still a Finisher's Finisher. About 10" X 2.5" in size, a little over 1" thick I'd guess, I've never tried to pry it out of the box.

Mine was used for years with oil, and I should probably continue the practice for the very best results, but I just don't like honing with oil. So I use water with a tiny bit of dish soap to get similar results. For final polishing a fine edge, the suction and draw of this stone is intense.

In my experience, I only use the Charnley to take an already good edge to the next level. For me it has been a waste of time to use on anything that hasn't already been given a fine edge on something like an Escher, Shapton 16K, or JNat. It always takes a good edge to another level when I've done my part, imparting a fantastic smooth keenness that is unique. It can improve any edge coming off any finishing stone I have, including my best JNat. A niche natural stone, but a keeper for sure.

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Thank you for the interesting information. So, I’m assuming if it after a Thuringian the grit would be approximately 15k of so?
 
Thank you for the interesting information. So, I’m assuming if it after a Thuringian the grit would be approximately 15k of so?

Yeah, it's got to be at least 15K equivalent or well above, at least mine is.

I got it years ago when I was first getting serious about honing, and buying unusual natural stones for the hell of it, to try them out. I didn't know what to make of it at first, I couldn't get anything out of it. I was getting decent edges at the time, but was definitely still learning (I still am). My initial impression was that it was like a Chinese 12K, but harder, with even less feedback.

It wasn't until I got a really good edge on a big Friodur super-hollow, taking it through a Coticule and a good JNat, that I decided to try "after-finishing" on the Charnley. First 10 or 15 strokes, I still got nothing, it even felt a little rough. I was afraid I was taking away from a really good edge. Then something changed on the steel and it just got into the zone, and got this incredible suction and draw. I started using incredibly light pressure, just enough torque to get it across the stone surface, no downward pressure, and it just got better and better. It was like the stone was sucking down on the blade, I just had to move it across the stone. That edge was amazing.

For a really good edge, it takes me 10 - 15 strokes to get in that zone. For a solid-but-nothing-special edge, it might take 50 - 80 strokes. For an edge that really isn't there, I get nothing from the Charnley. I go back down to 3 - 5K, because I missed something on the bevel set.

So for me, it's a pure finisher.
 
Yeah, it's got to be at least 15K equivalent or well above, at least mine is.

I got it years ago when I was first getting serious about honing, and buying unusual natural stones for the hell of it, to try them out. I didn't know what to make of it at first, I couldn't get anything out of it. I was getting decent edges at the time, but was definitely still learning (I still am). My initial impression was that it was like a Chinese 12K, but harder, with even less feedback.

It wasn't until I got a really good edge on a big Friodur super-hollow, taking it through a Coticule and a good JNat, that I decided to try "after-finishing" on the Charnley. First 10 or 15 strokes, I still got nothing, it even felt a little rough. I was afraid I was taking away from a really good edge. Then something changed on the steel and it just got into the zone, and got this incredible suction and draw. I started using incredibly light pressure, just enough torque to get it across the stone surface, no downward pressure, and it just got better and better. It was like the stone was sucking down on the blade, I just had to move it across the stone. That edge was amazing.

For a really good edge, it takes me 10 - 15 strokes to get in that zone. For a solid-but-nothing-special edge, it might take 50 - 80 strokes. For an edge that really isn't there, I get nothing from the Charnley. I go back down to 3 - 5K, because I missed something on the bevel set.

So for me, it's a pure finisher.

Thanks for explaining this for me. After-finishing is an interesting prospect. I like it .

Perfect as I had an experience tonight of preparing tomorrow mornings razor on the Thuringian. As I went throught my usual series of laps I was listening. The razor gradually went silent and I took it that I was nearing completion.
 
After a wonderful five week vacation, I’m back with my gear. I put the Char thru 120, 280, 400 and 600 SIC. It is now in much better shape that 80 SIC to 600 wet/dry. I touched up my Puma on a tiny dark blue Escher and then went to the Charn with oil. Some circles, half strokes and finished it off with about 20 long, slow and deliberate laps of a very heel forward position and WOW!
Got me thinking about the Ark thread and I went back and lapped my Trout Stone in the same manner stopping at 600. I touched up my Herder on a Coti and went to the Trout Stone with Oil and again, WOW!
Is lapping to 600 and using oil the “magic” sauce with regards to novaculite type stones? Who knows, but for me I will definitely continue to keep mine dressed at 600 and some oil on hand.
 
I touched up my Puma on a tiny dark blue Escher and then went to the Charn with oil. Some circles, half strokes and finished it off with about 20 long, slow and deliberate laps of a very heel forward position and WOW!
I've been pondering which direction to go with my next hone purchase. I just happened upon a Dark blue Thuri early on, and have had an incredible experience with it. It's difficult to find anything that will improve on the edge it gives...would a charnley forest be something that would noticeably bump up the performance? as far as i've read it's options like "JNAT, possibly these new coe arks, or a Charnley."
 
If you get a good Charn it can improve an already great edge. However, so will a Translucent or Hard Black Ark and they are easier to find and most likely less expensive.
 
Yeah, it's got to be at least 15K equivalent or well above, at least mine is.

I got it years ago when I was first getting serious about honing, and buying unusual natural stones for the hell of it, to try them out. I didn't know what to make of it at first, I couldn't get anything out of it. I was getting decent edges at the time, but was definitely still learning (I still am). My initial impression was that it was like a Chinese 12K, but harder, with even less feedback.

It wasn't until I got a really good edge on a big Friodur super-hollow, taking it through a Coticule and a good JNat, that I decided to try "after-finishing" on the Charnley. First 10 or 15 strokes, I still got nothing, it even felt a little rough. I was afraid I was taking away from a really good edge. Then something changed on the steel and it just got into the zone, and got this incredible suction and draw. I started using incredibly light pressure, just enough torque to get it across the stone surface, no downward pressure, and it just got better and better. It was like the stone was sucking down on the blade, I just had to move it across the stone. That edge was amazing.

For a really good edge, it takes me 10 - 15 strokes to get in that zone. For a solid-but-nothing-special edge, it might take 50 - 80 strokes. For an edge that really isn't there, I get nothing from the Charnley. I go back down to 3 - 5K, because I missed something on the bevel set.

So for me, it's a pure finisher.

What your saying with this and your previous post is very interesting.
I would never have thought to go from a Thuri edge to CF.

I bought my CF a few weeks ago and used it on a Filarmonica I'd just aquired. To say it blew me away with the edge is an understatement.
I've used it on one other razor and didn't find it to be just as game changing.
But what your saying about the quality of the edge before using the CF is making a lot of sense to me.
Think I'll need to experiment a bit more with mine.

Mine looks like it's had a hard life, but it's got plenty left to give yet.
Lapped it up to 600grit W&D.

CF1.JPG


Green stuff on the lid is paint, i think!
 
A good quality hard CF will bump up the edge from a thuri. I originally started with Coticules then thuri which bumped the edge up and then went to CF. I was even using the coticule as the bevel setter so it was a complete natural progression. I don't know about this 600 wd thing though. I found I get better edges going higher grit and then even rubbing another high level stone on it like another CF. The edges were always butter smooth and sharp as all get out. Usually about 200 laps or more on the CF .
 
A good quality hard CF will bump up the edge from a thuri. I originally started with Coticules then thuri which bumped the edge up and then went to CF. I was even using the coticule as the bevel setter so it was a complete natural progression. I don't know about this 600 wd thing though. I found I get better edges going higher grit and then even rubbing another high level stone on it like another CF. The edges were always butter smooth and sharp as all get out. Usually about 200 laps or more on the CF .

Agree about the grit level. I take my CFs up a lot higher than that - 2000 usually. I have a CF slip stone for burnishing them as well.

I find the CFs follow Welsh slates well.
 
What difference does it make? Genuinely interested.

Well this will answer both questions. First you had asked about the Whittle hill stone. It feels ever so slightly softer in texture compared to my harder stones, but is still a hard stone. It is a pleasure to hone on even though it is thin and narrow. I find it easier to hone with slurry than just plain water or even water glycerin it just feels more natural and somewhat like a light weight oil. So I find using the Thuri slurry does two things for me. The Whittle hill stone seems to give an edge with more bite too it. Not harsh, but you know there is a sharp blade on your face. So using the slurry form a y/g thuri softens the edge feel a bit while also increasing the over all cutting power. I have also been playing with this idea using other slurries such as Tam o Shanter. I find nice very comfortable results. It is more polishing at this stage and using polishing type stones seems to help increase the smooth factor for me and a little increase in the cutting power too. Of course this can be stone dependent as there are CF stones that are much softer and more for knives and same with whatever stone you are using for slurry. I have also been experimenting using sword polishing JNAt stones on my Tam and CF and vise versa.
 
This is very interesting! I have one razor left to hone so I think it’s going to have a date with a Jnat and a Charn with Thuri slurry.
 
Well this will answer both questions. First you had asked about the Whittle hill stone. It feels ever so slightly softer in texture compared to my harder stones, but is still a hard stone. It is a pleasure to hone on even though it is thin and narrow. I find it easier to hone with slurry than just plain water or even water glycerin it just feels more natural and somewhat like a light weight oil. So I find using the Thuri slurry does two things for me. The Whittle hill stone seems to give an edge with more bite too it. Not harsh, but you know there is a sharp blade on your face. So using the slurry form a y/g thuri softens the edge feel a bit while also increasing the over all cutting power. I have also been playing with this idea using other slurries such as Tam o Shanter. I find nice very comfortable results. It is more polishing at this stage and using polishing type stones seems to help increase the smooth factor for me and a little increase in the cutting power too. Of course this can be stone dependent as there are CF stones that are much softer and more for knives and same with whatever stone you are using for slurry. I have also been experimenting using sword polishing JNAt stones on my Tam and CF and vise versa.

Very interesting. I tried raising a slurry with a CF slip stone but the suction was so great that it made it fairly impossible in a honing cycle. Good for burnishing the main stone though.

I hadn't considered another type of stone. I will try the Thuri and ToS slurries myself - it sounds good, especially for harder, harsher steels.
 
Very interesting. I tried raising a slurry with a CF slip stone but the suction was so great that it made it fairly impossible in a honing cycle. Good for burnishing the main stone though.

I hadn't considered another type of stone. I will try the Thuri and ToS slurries myself - it sounds good, especially for harder, harsher steels.

I have used a light CF slurry using a small Charnley Forest stone. Although both my slurry stone and base are super hard it was like making a slurry with the hybrid side of a LL coti using a hybrid slurry stone. Can't give much pressure either or you will scratch the stones all up. I rounded my slurry stone slightly. Took forever to raise just a small amount and it was actually hard to see. I wouldn't make a thick slurry with it and it is gritty, but speeds up the early stages if it isn't sharp yet. It will take a super sharp blade back some then come up a bit, but you don't want to finish on CF slurry.

The lighter more forgiving slurry from a Thuri or Tam yield nice results for me. These slurries do change the edge feel slightly, but my main reason for this is first fun and then I realized they change the viscosity of the water to what I like and no oil or glycerin or soap is needed. Also with these softer stones you can raise a bit more slurry easier without scratching the base stone.
 
I have used a light CF slurry using a small Charnley Forest stone. Although both my slurry stone and base are super hard it was like making a slurry with the hybrid side of a LL coti using a hybrid slurry stone. Can't give much pressure either or you will scratch the stones all up. I rounded my slurry stone slightly. Took forever to raise just a small amount and it was actually hard to see. I wouldn't make a thick slurry with it and it is gritty, but speeds up the early stages if it isn't sharp yet. It will take a super sharp blade back some then come up a bit, but you don't want to finish on CF slurry.

The lighter more forgiving slurry from a Thuri or Tam yield nice results for me. These slurries do change the edge feel slightly, but my main reason for this is first fun and then I realized they change the viscosity of the water to what I like and no oil or glycerin or soap is needed. Also with these softer stones you can raise a bit more slurry easier without scratching the base stone.
You have opened up a whole new avenue of experimentation and investigation for me.
 
I promised myself, no more Charnley Forests ... but then I saw this one. Haven't had time to try it yet, but the signs are good: obvious inclusions but small and not affecting the cutting surface much.
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